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Thread: Electrician problem

  1. #51
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    To ground your 110V power, your electrician needs to drive a special "grounding" or "earthing" rod into the ground. It'll be made from copper and should be long enough to go below the frost line for you area. There'll be a clamp on one end of the rod that gets a very large stranded conductor wire attached to it. This conductor wire is then run to your circuit breaker box where it is attached to the main ground that comes into your circuit breaker box with the power wires. If you don't have the third wire in the main incoming cable, you likely don't have the "grounding bar" in the panel either, he'll need to add one and then attach the grounding conductor to that bar and the run 3 conductor wire (hot, neutral, ground) through your house for properly grounded 110V. You'll then need a 3 prong power cord for your PSU that looks like this.
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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waterlogged View Post
    To ground your 110V power, your electrician needs to drive a special "grounding" or "earthing" rod into the ground. It'll be made from copper and should be long enough to go below the frost line for you area.
    His electrician doesn't know what an earthing system is, plus he's in Saudi Arabia, so I imagine he might have to go down quite far to reach the "frost line"

    Quote Originally Posted by amajed View Post
    I ordered every single item from the US , but I live in Saudi Arabia , its like 1% of the houses that uses a grounding system , even the Electrician guy doesn't know how to build an earthing system
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  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Creekin View Post
    His electrician doesn't know what an earthing system is, plus he's in Saudi Arabia, so I imagine he might have to go down quite far to reach the "frost line"
    In most places, the frost line is where water will no longer freeze, where he is, I wouldn't expect that to be all that much deeper or shallower than most of the other places within the same latitude and elevation ranges.

    I'd get a different electrician then.

    I pulled most of that info from the top of my head from when I was in high school (vocational training) which was 25 years ago.
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  4. #54
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    Oh guys , most of electrician guys here doesn't even know what the 3rd plug is for , they never heard of earthing , u really need to search hard to find some1 who knows what earthing system is .

    for now the 110V doesn't shock at all , but that didn't solve the Freezing problem , beside I've been living at the house for 10 years now , with like 4 deferent PCs , this is the first time that I'm facing a freezing problem like that.

    anyway , my last attempt was installing a fresh Windows XP 32bit on a new Seagate 1TB HDD without any other HDD or SSD , also I'm on a Default BIOS Settings , so far everything is good, it could be AHCI or RAID problem ? or maybe one of the HDD that I had causing freeze ?


    is it possible that a HDD that doesn't have a system on it cause freeze ?

  5. #55
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    possible but not likely,
    i'd say it was on OS problem,
    has it gone away?
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  6. #56
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    I cant really tell , sometimes my PC doesnt freeze for 2 days.

    for now I have this problem , Back when I was on Windows 7 64bit I freeze and have to force restart the PC . but now something else came up , I was playing and then the system stopped responding and then the color of the screen changed , I pressed ALT+TAP and it did tap me to desktop , once I ALT+TAP again the color of the game was back to normal , maybe on Windows XP 32bit the system wont freeze , but on Windows 7 64bit it dose ,



    let me remind u of one thing , I did replace my other Graphic card , the Old one was Gigabyte GTX460 1GB (the system freeze on this one) and I got ASUS GTX460 768MB (also the system freeze on this one too)
    so I had 2 Graphic cards and system was freezing on both.


    I'll attach pictures of the screen when the color changed
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  7. #57
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    definite graphics card issue there,
    did the problems start before or after you first mounted the full cover block?

    sounds like you have a faulty motherboard, too many unrelated problems with only 1 thing in common, the mobo,
    if i am understanding you correctly.

    mobo cans still run when broken, in theory, they dont use all of their components all the time, so you may be able to boot and run fine
    but then crash when you try to use all the capacity of the pci-e for eg...

    do you have access to another known good mobo you can swap and test with?
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  8. #58
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    I might be able to borrow mobo from PC store , maybe the'll lend me one I dont know , the Card should be OK since I replaced it and still have this problem

    I've never used my mobo without the FC block

  9. #59
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    my guess is you either over tightened the block the first time you mounted it,
    or you missed a spacer or thermal tape spot and damaged the board.
    Or it was already faulty when you received it.....

    How old is it? you may be able to send it away for repair.

    bear in mind i am diagnosing from the other side of the world, with only your info to go on, so i may be completely wrong,
    but that's what it sounds like to me.. sorry
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  10. #60
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    I might damaged the board when I mount the block without the standoffs , its possible , I just want to make sure its the board , I don't want to spend 350$ without making sure its a board problem.
    its bought the board a month ago . sending it back might cost me around 70$ for one way shipment , and I found this board at a store who would sell it for 370$ with a year warranty , so I don't think I'll send my board to EVGA.


    thank you very much Creekin really thank you
    and ofc everyone else who helped me

  11. #61
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    Install stock cooler back on and you ll see if it motherboard or block.
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  12. #62
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    too bad I lost most of the block's screws :P beside I used lots of method when I installed the WC Block , I dont think its a block problem, but it might already damaged the board when I installed it in a wrong way.

  13. #63
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    He's tried everything Tackleberry

    I think it's time you did your thing and put the mobo out of it's misery

    no matter how many times i see your sig i always laugh
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  14. #64
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    as to which voltage regulator..
    ST1500W, 1500VA ---should be ok for a computer and a monitor of decent specs.

    ST2000W, 2000VA --- would be a little bit overkill BUT would easily protect your computer, monitor, speakers, and all your other little goodies and gadgets you would plug into it from maybe a splitter or surge strip.


    If i were you I would go ahead and find a nice UPS with a voltage regulator built in. if the 110v line has some issues(130v) a UPS will be a great defense for all your equipment.

    UPS are also sold in similar specs.... 1500VA 2000VA

    as far as the grounding goes I would look into maybe adding some grounding to that outlet your self.

    As stated before all you need is a grounding rod with a wire connected to ground terminal of that power outlet.

    If I were you I would AT LEAST look into getting a UPS.

  15. #65
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    Why a UPS but not a normal Voltage Regulator ?

    and for grounding , isn't Hot/Neutral for 110v doesn't need ground ?

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by amajed View Post
    Why a UPS but not a normal Voltage Regulator ?

    and for grounding , isn't Hot/Neutral for 110v doesn't need ground ?

    A voltage regulator can only really help in the even of a over volt (130) but cant do much for an under volt or a brownout. which can still be a trouble maker and could even cause your system to freeze.

    also with a UPS when the unit detects instability on the power it will switch over to the battery. this will allow you to continue playing without any interruptions.


    over here our 120v outlet has 3 terminals Hot/Common/Ground

    our 220v here comes in 2 different fashions

    How 220v works with 4 wires: (one wire to each)
    1 Black wire carries 110v
    1 Red wire carries 110v
    1 White wire acts as a common
    1 Green wire acts as a ground

    How 220v works with a 3 wires:
    1 Black wire carries 110v
    1 Red/White wire carries 110v (if you use white flag it with red electrical tape)
    1 Green wire acts as a ground/common

  17. #67
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    I changed the mobo to a new one , and I still got the freeze problem ,(I didn't remove the stock cooler from the new mobo) now , I swapped CPU with my friend (I give him 980X and took 940) I did fresh install , there's no freeze at all , I've been playing for 2 days now. I guess my Extreme CPU have a problem or something . thank god I got it from a local store ,I'll give it back to them and get a new one , lets hope they don't ask for checking or something , the freezing problem doesn't appear all the time :/

  18. #68
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    The PC is most likely freezing due to you poor electrical wiring. You have stray electrical currents which will be causing interference with all sorts of things.
    the voltage regulators you have shown and are talking about will not really fix this problem they are for use when the voltage fluctuates a lot. Inside them is a mechanically controlled variac. They may sometimes help if they act as an isolation transformer which can remove the need for a ground.

    In your area where there is little moisture in the ground and the ground is not very conductive ie sand very good insulator. many ground stakes would be needed even maybe some mesh put in the ground. This is probably why the ground system is not used. However as you are getting a shock it shows that a ground is working and therefore needed.

  19. #69
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    If the i7-940 working just fine I don't think the poor electrical wiring have to do with anything , sure I need to fix that , but that won't fix my freezing problem , I guess.


    I'll look into the electrical wiring thing once I fix the freezing problem, for now I cant really think of any other problems .


    thank you shadow6491

  20. #70
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    Its not a CPU problem :/

    its wierd but ,,, if I install NVIDIA card I get freeze, if I install ATi I dont get freezes at all :/ I tried to many deferent NVIDIA cards

  21. #71
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    do both cards have the same power inputs?
    ie: dual 6 pin or 8 pin?
    maybe psu related
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  22. #72
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    yes both have the same (both 6 pin)
    I don't think its a PSU problem be cause I did change the PSU

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