too much restriction/enough cooling?

[MrGoodCat]

Hi all. I have finally gotten around to resurrecting a build from last year. However i feel i may have jumped the gun and ordered parts too soon. i usually research first then buy, but for some reason did not do that this time...

i am wondering if my set up will be too restricted and if it will provide enough cooling. my single loop will consist of the following:

-mcp355 with a newer top plate (forgot its name)
-feser triple 120 55mm
-3x scythe ultra kaze 120x38mm
-apogee gtz
-ek evga sli fe full cover
-ek 480gtx full cover
-back to res
-(all 1/2" ID tubing)

i will be looking to cool a i7 930 under that gtz. i have no intentions of running sli. if i overclock at all it will be VERY minor.

i am just worried that since it is a single loop there will be too much restriction, or that the radiator will not provide enough cooling or both...

any thoughts out there?

i will post a build log once i get some parts rolling in and some spare time. i plan on having it ready for new vegas, haha.

[Church]

355 has enough head to counter rather restrictive loops. Flow impact on temps is a bit overrated and imho you should be fine. As you've stated that overclocking will be minor, 3x120 should be sufficient probably. I wonder though why you chosen rad optimised for quieter/slower rpm fans, yet bought high rpm noisy ones like ultra kazes?

[Conumdrum]

If your not overclocking much you sure don't need a FC mobo block. Save lots of cash and drop that. And if you do want mind benbding loud fans get a Black Ice Xtreme 120x3 rad instead.

Looks like a quick parts pick and not a lot of info yet about how everything interacts.

[MrGoodCat]

355 has enough head to counter rather restrictive loops. Flow impact on temps is a bit overrated and imho you should be fine. As you've stated that overclocking will be minor, 3x120 should be sufficient probably. I wonder though why you chosen rad optimised for quieter/slower rpm fans, yet bought high rpm noisy ones like ultra kazes?

thanks for the input. haha, yeah i had forgotten i got the noisy ones. i bought the rad, fans, and gtz a year ago then my comp pooped out after 1 week ( i used a lotta old components...). so the parts i bought have been sitting. anywho, i bought the high rpm fans and a fan controller as well. this allowed me to have the rpm if i needed it. i figured why not spend the same amount of money (or maybe it was a little more) and get fans that have a greater range. that is actually a whole other issue, i.e. fan controller catastrophe. i may need to make a new thread about that, but first i wanna trouble shoot that issue some more.

well, thanks again. i am glad that things will work out. i jumped the gun on the ek mosfet/nb/sb cooler and after i bought i started thinking about restriction...

would you recommend any specific config? i was think cpu, to mosfet/nb/sb, to gpu. or maybe i should hit cpu, gpu then mosfet/nb/sb...thoughts?

[Conumdrum]

Always try for rad then CPU. Really don't matter much with temps. Your gonna need those fans if you crunch BTW, your looking at pretty high wattage. Gaming and normal usage your fine.

Might take a read through this.

http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/

[MrGoodCat]

If your not overclocking much you sure don't need a FC mobo block. Save lots of cash and drop that. And if you do want mind benbding loud fans get a Black Ice Xtreme 120x3 rad instead.

Looks like a quick parts pick and not a lot of info yet about how everything interacts.

yeah, kinda salvaging parts form an old build. thanks though. probably didn't need to the FC mobo like you said, but ah well, hope it doesn't hurt me...

i did run the fans at 5v and they worked quite well when it was cooling my am2 and 8800gtx. they were very quiet too. i need to look into the issue though i was having with a zalman fan controller...

[MrGoodCat]

Always try for rad then CPU. Really don't matter much with temps. Your gonna need those fans if you crunch BTW, your looking at pretty high wattage. Gaming and normal usage your fine.

Might take a read through this.

http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/

thanks for the link/info. yeah just gaming here. fallout new vegas baby, haha, and rage whenever that hits.

[BeepBeep2]

Why an Apogee GTZ? $$$$$ Bling Feser rad and Apogee GTZ doesn't make sense.

[Church]

BeepBeep2: As he wrote, it's not list to buy, it's list of parts he already has on hands/purchased or salvaged from previous builds. Even though there are better cpu waterblocks, i doubt buying whole new one will enhance temps enough to justify cost of 2nd block purchase. I would buy other fans though, as unlike minimal temp gains in waterblock upgrade, noise of fans is important enough for me.
And for fans, as usual, i suggest getting Scythe Gentle Typhoons. Slowest variety for running at full speed, or as i prefer - getting 1450 or 1850 ones and running them at 1000-1100 downvolted (to have extra performance reserve if ever needed). GTs@1100 are very silent yet still push enough air. Ultrakazes most probably will be noisyer at same performance level or push less air when downvolted to similar noise level. I'd maybe even get 6 of GTs, for push-pull setup.

[MrGoodCat]

Why an Apogee GTZ? $$$$$ Bling Feser rad and Apogee GTZ doesn't make sense.

bought it a year ago and it saw about 1-2 weeks of use. i'd like to get more use out of it, if i have cooling issues though...i'd upgrade it.

BeepBeep2: As he wrote, it's not list to buy, it's list of parts he already has on hands/purchased or salvaged from previous builds. Even though there are better cpu waterblocks, i doubt buying whole new one will enhance temps enough to justify cost of 2nd block purchase. I would buy other fans though, as unlike minimal temp gains in waterblock upgrade, noise of fans is important enough for me.
And for fans, as usual, i suggest getting Scythe Gentle Typhoons. Slowest variety for running at full speed, or as i prefer - getting 1450 or 1850 ones and running them at 1000-1100 downvolted (to have extra performance reserve if ever needed). GTs@1100 are very silent yet still push enough air. Ultrakazes most probably will be noisyer at same performance level or push less air when downvolted to similar noise level. I'd maybe even get 6 of GTs, for push-pull setup.

hmmm...i'll have to look into those. yet again i those ultra kazes only saw about 1-2 weeks of use as well, i'd hate to just ditch em, but like you said, sound is important to me too. i did undervolt em when i ran em, but as you mentioned they may not be performing as well at lower rpms...damn, well i think i'll end up trying the build out with the fans i got. if i have to crank em to get decent temps then i may look else where, i.e. the typhoons you mentioned...thanks for the info

[MrGoodCat]

well i did a very stupid thing. so my pc crapped out may 2009, and i left the water in it until now. it was packed away (no light hitting it), none the less it was stupid. sooo, finally took it apart and the water came out nice and clean. i had used feser pure water with corrosion blocker and pt nuke (no dye). then i opened my dtek gpu block. the copper was black. next i opened my gtz. the copper was not black but there was corrosion. so looks like i'll be upgrading to apogee xt. pump seemed fine, but now i am concerned about the radiator. since the water came out clean i assume when i flush the radiator out it will come out clean. if there is corrosion in the radiator, will that continue on to my next loop with the new system?

i feel incredibly stupid for letting it sit, it just got packed away and i kinda forgot about it...i guess i did not use enough corrosion blocker, or maybe it just sat stagnant for too long

[BeepBeep2]

well i did a very stupid thing. so my pc crapped out may 2009, and i left the water in it until now. it was packed away (no light hitting it), none the less it was stupid. sooo, finally took it apart and the water came out nice and clean. i had used feser pure water with corrosion blocker and pt nuke (no dye). then i opened my dtek gpu block. the copper was black. next i opened my gtz. the copper was not black but there was corrosion. so looks like i'll be upgrading to apogee xt. pump seemed fine, but now i am concerned about the radiator. since the water came out clean i assume when i flush the radiator out it will come out clean. if there is corrosion in the radiator, will that continue on to my next loop with the new system?

i feel incredibly stupid for letting it sit, it just got packed away and i kinda forgot about it...i guess i did not use enough corrosion blocker, or maybe it just sat stagnant for too long

Well, you could try to just clean them...it's just copper.

As for the radiator it might have some corrosion in it but fill it up and give it a good shake first and rinse it before you come to any conclusions.

[MrGoodCat]

Well, you could try to just clean them...it's just copper.

As for the radiator it might have some corrosion in it but fill it up and give it a good shake first and rinse it before you come to any conclusions.

cool, thanks. yeah the gtz isn't too bad, and i think i can salvage it with some good tlc. i can't believe the dtek block though. i'll post a pic in a little bit, i'd say 90% of it is straight up black...glad i didn't plan on using it.

i hope the rad is still good, i have a feeling it might be ok, just a little unnerving when starting a new build with it, ah well.

EDIT: here is a pic. as you can see the gtz isn't too bad. i just can't believe that poor dtek...

[Waterlogged]

cool, thanks. yeah the gtz isn't too bad, and i think i can salvage it with some good tlc. i can't believe the dtek block though. i'll post a pic in a little bit, i'd say 90% of it is straight up black...glad i didn't plan on using it.

i hope the rad is still good, i have a feeling it might be ok, just a little unnerving when starting a new build with it, ah well.

EDIT: here is a pic. as you can see the gtz isn't too bad. i just can't believe that poor dtek...

Unless your planning to change the top on the Apogee to a copper top, I wouldn't even bother.

That Fuzion looks really weird (almost looks burned), I wonder if that's a side effect result of using an acid and having galvanic corrosion?

[MrGoodCat]

Unless your planning to change the top on the Apogee to a copper top, I wouldn't even bother.

That Fuzion looks really weird (almost looks burned), I wonder if that's a side effect result of using an acid and having galvanic corrosion?

you wouldn't bother scrapping it or salvaging it? i've got no intention of using a copper top, if i am gonna drop money into the cpu block it would be for an xt.

yeah, that damage to the fusion could explain why my comp crapped out. when i would play game (or load the gpu with cad) it would lock up the comp. could a really hot gpu cause such damage?...

[Church]

Is good old ketchup+tooth brush tried to clean those copper blocks?

[Waterlogged]

you wouldn't bother scrapping it or salvaging it? i've got no intention of using a copper top, if i am gonna drop money into the cpu block it would be for an xt.

yeah, that damage to the fusion could explain why my comp crapped out. when i would play game (or load the gpu with cad) it would lock up the comp. could a really hot gpu cause such damage?...

Salvaging.

Actually, it looks like you had a pretty significant air bubble trapped in the Fuzion (non colored part) from the looks of it so your GFX card was probably getting a bit warm (not enough to burn the block though). The fluid you used is known to be an acid (Fester says so on their site) and that combined with the GalCorr and high temps may have caused that black coating on the block.

[MrGoodCat]

Salvaging.

Actually, it looks like you had a pretty significant air bubble trapped in the Fuzion (non colored part) from the looks of it so your GFX card was probably getting a bit warm (not enough to burn the block though). The fluid you used is known to be an acid (Fester says so on their site) and that combined with the GalCorr and high temps may have caused that black coating on the block.

that sounds logical. i guess i will not be using the feser liquid again. and here i though i was doing things right. it will be distilled water/anti corr/pt nuke from now on. and a much more thorough air purging check...

well i checked my rad here at work. pressure tested it to just a few psi, and all was good. the corrosion seems to be around the fittings (d-tek) and the bleed screw, which appears to be unplated steel...lame. that was where the majority of the corrosion was, well at least from what i could see with out cutting the rad open, haha. blew it out with air and shook it up with water before that. nothing odd came out, just clear water. i think i will be safe reusing as long as i do the liquid right this time

i think i may try and clean the gtz up, it just feels like such a waste to scrap it since i hardly used it, but sometimes i guess you have to move on, haha. man, new builds always drain my wallet more than i intended...sigh

[MrGoodCat]

Is good old ketchup+tooth brush tried to clean those copper blocks?

ketchup, really? something to do with acidity? mmm, gtz with a side of ketchup...

[Church]

MrGoodCat: exactly. very slightly/dilutedly acidic ketchup. This way it easily helps get copper thingies back their shiny bling, yet are not as acidic to ruin something fast. (eg. some types of vinegar suggested sometimes for similar use are too strong and in some cases are known for damaging looks of plated with nickel (or chrome?) waterblocks). Some use even cocacola for similar reasons

[Hu1kamania]

Ketchup or Catsup?