Not really - theres no gunk in it as the loop is sealed and all my components are long since flushed clean. I've had to do a shedload of rebuilds recently and given how hard it is to get hold of proper distilled here in the UK it makes sense to re-use it if you can. What I have now cost me £15 for a gallon and over the last 2 months I wouldve got through easily 2 gals. As it is ive used about 700ml .
I do have a good look at the water before deciding to re-use it. Its totally clear with absolutely no floaty bits or any other gunk in it. I'd never advocate re-using dirty coolant, just don't see the point in binning it until it is dirty.
In the US where you pay under a dollar for a gallon yeah id just throw it, elsewhere in the world resources arent considered as disposable ond products aren't sold cheaply enough to promote disposability . I had to mail order my distilled via work to get guaranteed purity. We can only get hold of crappy DI here (battery top up water) in retail and thats around £6 a gallon.
I see now. Your more just looking to see if you missed anything then. Very understandable on reusing the coolant then.
I think I will just stick with my trusty water from Shopper's Drug mart that is not even 100 yards from my house. Every once in awhile this sort of thing comes up but I have yet to see anything viable that would make me think of purchasing this coolant. I mean what would the temp difference be in my system? I bet nothing more then .5 degree's and probably in favour of the water. For myself I will buy a new block (like I did recently) if it means I can cut a few degree's. It is something tangible for my money. $40 on coolant is on the ridiculous side for me especially when the distilled I use is only a couple dollars a gallon and last me a long while because I use the Primochill LRT tubing that needs no PTnuke or kill coil.
I say good luck to you on this but it is something I would not put my name on or endorse.
I'm in the UK and can get Deionised water far easier and cheaper than Distilled but can anyone let me know why Distilled is better for watercooling a PC
Oh BTW relttem, keeping the thread on track, any chance of a sample of the new stuff to the UK??
Last edited by coolmiester; 08-18-2010 at 05:25 PM.
we are sending some to mlwood37 (Mayhems Dyes). He is going to test the UV dye in the nanofluid in his rig, and he is sending us some dye to test on our end. A lot of people have been asking about dying the nanofluid. We'll know shortly.
I thought deionized was better.
Nope, distilled water is de-ionised water that is then distilled and electrochemically purified. I find I get some oxidation buildup using de-ionised. Whitish powdery deposit inside barbs and tubes. Comes off easily, just a pain. Block internals seem to blacken (oxidise) slower, but thats purely subjective and not measured in any way.
No idea why we cant get distilled off the shelf here. I had to get a friendly technician in the chemistry department to order mine for me . Its lab quality purity though so £15 a gallon isnt bad given the lack of choice we have .
Here is a 'deadone' that I was talking about earlier.
The white section is the corner, and the rest is the flow field colored by velocity. The light purple is the 'dead zone'. I tried to do a vector field plot, but it was too hard to see. The flow is going from left to right. The flow in the light purple section is actually going around in a circle very slowly, thus the name..sort of like an eddy. Where this comes into play in heat transfer is now I have to transfer heat from the CPU thru the copper wall of the waterblock and now thru a 'wall' of stationary fluid to the moving fluid that is taking the heat away. The adds a little more resistance to the heat path. One of the things we are looking into is how this deadzone works with the nanoparticles, because the deadzone won't be water but made more of the nanoparticles, which are thermally more conductive than water.
Last edited by relttem; 08-19-2010 at 03:52 PM.
Just to confirm what's been said all ready. Ive sent out several different dyes to relttem for testing at his end and hes sending me some of the liquid to test out at my end.
Ill Test dyes in various forms from pre mixed dyes to powder form to see if they work well. I how ever think it may be best to use the direct power dyes first to test it. How ever these test will take some time as ill need to check for brake down and all so to see how much is needed to make it work correctly with out impeding the natural tendency of the product. There is no point adding a dye if its going to have any adverse effects.
Ill keep an eye on this thread and post the results when they are ready how ever this will take a while.
it'll be in the mail on Monday. It should be an interesting experiment.
Any updates on how this stuff works with UV dyes????
Gigabyte X58 UD4P
24gb Patriot G-Seris PC3-12800
Asus Direct CU 5830 Tri-Fire
2 320gb seagate hybrid drives (o.s. array)
4 320gb samsung F1's (Game Array)
Custom watercooling setup
Windows7 Ultimate X64
We sent the nanofluid over a few days ago, and I just got his samples in the other day (sorry, I meant to tell you, MlWood37). I hope to do some stuff with it this weekend and post some pictures. It will be very rudimentary stuff (plain mixing), and it will only be an initial findings sort of thing. I think it is going to be an interesting outcome, because the nanoparticles are solids. So, you shouldn't be able to dye those. But, the liquid is DI water, which has been shown to dye. I guess we will know shortly.
Black dye + nanofluid = grey?
Grey could be a pretty interesting coolant color, IMO
Yup, grey (and original white) shure would be interesting in many black only or black&white builds i've seen lately a lot of.
I added some of Mayhems dye to the nanofluid and got pretty good results. Granted, the color is a little lighter, which basically happens with any color that you mix with a white. I used the same clear tubing.
The first series is Mayhems Candy Red. I put 6 drops in the clear tubing (far left), and 6 drops in the nanofluid, which turned it pink. So, I tried to match the red in the clear with a red nanofluid and ended up puting in 3x as many drops. It is pretty close. The photograph actually makes it look really close. With some tweaking any color could probably be obtained. But, you can definitely get the smoothie look if that is your thing
This second series is the red again, but with a red (12 drops and 2 drops of dark blue), so it came out purple. Then, the orange is Mayhems Powder. I wasn't sure how much to add, so I just poured a little in from the baggie it came in to see how well it mixed.
I will do some black light later tonite and see how it looks, and get some pictures up of that. I am not sure if all the dyes are UV reactive or not. I will try to get one that is UV reactive and photograph it as well. Hopefully soon I will add it to one of the computers and see how it looks.
Last edited by relttem; 08-29-2010 at 08:54 AM.
The purple looks pretty good. And that pink is making me hungry. Now I want ice cream .
“Little expense had been spared to create the impression that no expense had been spared.” - Hitchhiker's GuideMondays:It's better to ask dumb questions now, than to look stupid later
Ive got Blood red dyes coming out of Tests in the next few weeks this is 5 X stronger than the candy red we currently use. e.g 1 x 5ml bottle will be equal to 5 x candy red with a deeper colour. All so i have Pure black coming out of test as well. How ever like every thing i do its going to take time.
cannot wait to test UV Green and UV Yellow / Green with Blue to create a ocean blue effect.
p.s the orange powder you got i think is actually Yellow. If you mix it with Blue you'll get Green. you only need tiny amount of the yellow to turn it that colour.
Im having to order some new dyes in the next few weeks when i do ill send you over more of different kinds to play with. Ive still got a few unreleased colours that i haven't put up for sale yet as i dont what to flood the market with to many different types and confuse my customers lol.
Last edited by mlwood37; 08-29-2010 at 06:56 AM.
UV Orange (Left) UV Blue (Middle) UV Yellow / Green (Right)
UV Orange - 2 drops to 80ml nano Fluid
UV Blue - 3 drops Deep Blue / 2 drops UV Clear blue to 80mls nano Fluid
UV Yellow/ Green - 3 drops - 80mls nano Fluid
Ill put photos Up tonight of the the UV aspect.