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Thread: Chilled water (56K beware)

  1. #101
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    That would take care of the oil issue, but then there is the liquid refrigerant issue. Liquid will gather in the evaporator during the off cycle. Gravity then carries it down the suction line to the compressor. When the compressor starts (if it starts), it is flooded with liquid. The compressor may or may not survive.


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  2. #102
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    the compressor has an accumulator on it would this save the compressor from the liquid

  3. #103
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    Yes, if it is large enough to hold all of the refrigerant.


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  4. #104
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    could i get rid of all the issues if i convert the suction line to 3/8

  5. #105
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    Pressure drop over an 3/8 line is so low that 1/2" would not provide any benefit. In fact, it would make performance worse since it provides less surface area for the same size of the coil.

    About the hoses: I have had very good results with clear fuel tubing. Extremely flexible, clear, able to withstand chemicals, and also important: cheap. Also, 1/2" Tricoflex tubing (rubber braided garden hose) works very well at <-40C temps.

  6. #106
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    so i should buy a 1/2 to 3/8 reducing union and use 3/8 all the way than

  7. #107
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    3/8 for the suction, 1/4 for the discharge and liquid lines would do nicely.

  8. #108
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    the liqiud line coming from the compressor is 3/8 so i should go down to 1/4 their then

  9. #109
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    sorry i haven't been here in awhile but my mid-terms where getting in the way but now that they are done i can go back to finshing my water_chiller
    now i have a new condensor to go with my new compressor
    and i think i am going to try out a coxial HX
    the coxial HX will be 10ft of 3/8 for evap and 10ft of 1/2 for the water
    here is the new condensor
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #110
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    the liqiud line coming from the compressor is 3/8 so i should go down to 1/4 their then
    The liquid line is the line from the condenser to the cap tube. I assume you are talking about the discharge line from the compressor to the condenser.

    The discharge line size is not as critical as the suction line. Either 1/4 or 3/8 would do the job. I would go with the 3/8 if that is what the size at the compressor is.

    We want the liquid line (condenser to cap tube) to be small in order to reduce refrigerant charge, but not so small as to restrict flow. The best choice would be 1/4.

    Suction line size is the most critical. It should be no less than 1/4, and no more than 3/8. If it is larger than 3/8, then both oil and refrigerant flow issues become crucial. Both of these issues need to be considered even with 1/4 or 3/8.
    Last edited by Gary Lloyd; 01-23-2004 at 12:45 PM.


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  11. #111
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    since my compressor is going to be bigger now since my old one was 1/6 and my new one is 9100BTU would i need a more restrictive cap tube

  12. #112
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    since my compressor is going to be bigger now since my old one was 1/6 and my new one is 9100BTU would i need a more restrictive cap tube
    If your goal was maximum capacity for a given temperature (fastest pulldown), then you would want to change the cap tube, but since your goal is lowest temperature, you would not change the cap tube.


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  13. #113
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    i have not been able to work on my chiller for awhile but now i'm back i have added the new compressor but i have to do some brazing and alot of cleaning before i start it here is a pic



    like i said lots of cleaning

    Edit: I guess my pic sever is down right now
    Last edited by water_cooler 20; 02-20-2004 at 10:40 PM.

  14. #114
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    Would a 5ft water coxial heatexchanger be long enough to cool the water down under load
    I want to use a coxial HE since it looks cleaner than my res and takes up less room
    also i have a TEV w/ a 03 sized Orifice rated to 1.5 tons is that to much for a water chiller

    also should the evap be on the outer tube or inner
    Last edited by water_cooler 20; 02-20-2004 at 10:47 PM.

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