GTX 560 Ti 448 on water

[AndrewZorn]

I'll try to be quick. I'm pretty frustrated, because I've been searching these and other forums for hours now, and I need to stop.

I have a new EVGA 560 Ti Classified. It is not reference design. I was not going to liquid cool it, but now I think I should.

Liquid cooling my 5850 was a total mess that had me grinding down copper sinks and hot gluing all over the PCB to get every tiny VRM under control. Is the 500 series like this at all? Looking under the Classified shroud I notice only the GPU contacts the cooler. This should tell me that the rest, to include memory, should only need some airflow. This worries me because I wonder if it needs the LOUD AND INSANE airflow of the stock fans. I just ordered some aluminum plates but instantly regret it, because I do not want to be outside in December with a Dremel tool cutting stuff again this year.

So, ultimate question is, are non-GPU elements near ignorable when it comes to cooling on the 560 Ti 448 / GTX 570 / etc? I'm honestly not hoping for a MONSTER overclock, just trying to remedy some fannage and terrible idle temps (multiple monitors). I don't want to just forget the fact I have a perfectly good liquid loop still in operation.

[dr.noob]

I'll try to be quick. I'm pretty frustrated, because I've been searching these and other forums for hours now, and I need to stop.

I have a new EVGA 560 Ti Classified. It is not reference design. I was not going to liquid cool it, but now I think I should.

Liquid cooling my 5850 was a total mess that had me grinding down copper sinks and hot gluing all over the PCB to get every tiny VRM under control. Is the 500 series like this at all? Looking under the Classified shroud I notice only the GPU contacts the cooler. This should tell me that the rest, to include memory, should only need some airflow. This worries me because I wonder if it needs the LOUD AND INSANE airflow of the stock fans. I just ordered some aluminum plates but instantly regret it, because I do not want to be outside in December with a Dremel tool cutting stuff again this year.

So, ultimate question is, are non-GPU elements near ignorable when it comes to cooling on the 560 Ti 448 / GTX 570 / etc? I'm honestly not hoping for a MONSTER overclock, just trying to remedy some fannage and terrible idle temps (multiple monitors). I don't want to just forget the fact I have a perfectly good liquid loop still in operation.

This is the gtx480 with overclock at 825mhz, the only air flow are those 3 fans blowing at 800/1000rpm.I hope this answers your question.

[Boulard83]

I think you made something wrong with your HD5850 ....

You can WC only the GPU with a universall GPU bloc and add heatsink for the VRMs. Then you just need airflow passing by. Memory dont really need heatsink, only the VRMs get really hot and work alot ( even more if you OC the card ).

Get a universall GPU bloc like the Swiftech MCW80 and some copper heatsink that Swiftech make too. Just make sur to clean VRMs with 99% alcohol to make sure heatsink stick well.

[AndrewZorn]

What did I do wrong with 5850?

I had to grind down universal 1cm x 1cm copper ramsinks to clear components around VRM. I put the ramsinks on memory as well. VRMs still got incredibly hot and were ultimately what held back overclock... I could do better with multiple high RPM fans right on the sinks, but what's the point of water then?

So yeah, I might be making some more adaptations for this card, not looking forward to it.

EDIT committed now. Not sure why I forgot about this PCB shot from Hi Tech Legion. I was hesitant to start taking stuff apart, unsure if I could finish. Now I know what I need.

I don't have quite enough copper heatsinks for the memory. Several were cut to clear components on the 5850, and now I need as many full-sized ones as possible. As has been mentioned before, this should be fine...

I need to ready myself for the task of attaching the copper heatsinks to the VRMs with hot glue (in a fashion that won't melt the glue during operation). Also need to get some more deionized water, because... of course... the MCW60 needs to be disassembled just to change the mounting plate to the G80 one (99% sure on this). I'm trying really hard to not turn this into a HUGE project, and clean all elements of the loop of leeched tubing chemicals...

[Ket]

Are there any holes at the back of the card in the VRM area? If there is you will likely find it far easier to buy a Enzotech MST-81, cut it to size and drill new holes then attach it using pushpins or a few screws and nuts with washers.