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Thread: I have a leak!

  1. #1
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    I have a leak!

    I finally got everything installed, now I have a small leak near one of my rad fittings, the way the rad was threaded, it made the fitting go in at a weird angle, but it felt secure. I was filling the loop, when I hear the sound of bubbles, and sure enough theres a leak at the rad.



    What should I do to make it stop leaking, and/or how can an I drain it and fix the angle?
    Last edited by Artemis; 07-10-2010 at 07:16 AM.

  2. #2
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    Artemis, please resize them, so we can see it properly. Unlike with watercooling, pics aren't better when they're bigger .
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  3. #3
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    fixed

  4. #4
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    The angle of the fitting won't let the o-ring seat properly. Just use some teflon tape on the threads and you should be good to go.
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    You can't achieved a proper seal at such an angle and do try to reseat the fitting. The O-ring will need to be compressed to prevent leak.

    Phil

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  6. #6
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    The radiator thread seems to be at an angle, I tried the tape, but it just started leaking again a few minutes later. anyway I can re-thread the fitting to fit the angled rad?

  7. #7
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    Grainy and blurred pics are useless. We need clear pics to see what you see and to be able to recommend a course of action.

    Tape does not work on these style threads.
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    rma

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    Is that a swiftech rad?

    Try getting 'fatter' O-Rings. I couldn't fit my 1/2'' ID 3/4'' OD bitspower fittings on the swiftech rad without a pair of those. They are about double the size (fatness) of the ones that came with the fitting itself, and they make a great seal - hand tightened only, and not a single leak yet.

  10. #10
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    Nah.. its the awkward angle that's causing the problem. Is this a new rad? Nevertheless, you should contact Swiftech for help.

    Phil

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  11. #11
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    Yeah its new.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by facboy View Post
    rma
    I'm thinking this as well but I'd like to see some clear pics just to make sure it's something he can't really do anything about without voiding the warranty first.
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  13. #13
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    BP compression fittings did not work on my swiftech mcr rad, since swiftech threads are recessed, and the BP fitting is too large to fit into the recessed area, so the BP fitting metal hits raised outer edge of swiftech metal around the threads, and so impossible to put any pressure on 0 ring.

    Unless swiftech rads have been redesigned, since I bought them.

    EDIT: I just tried BP rotary, even it wont fit on my swiftech rad, still too large to fit in recessed area. When I had mcr220 in loop I just used regular fitting on it. It is the same issue with EK reservoirs, the recessed area is too small for the relatively larger BP fitting diameter, but rotary works on those.
    Last edited by rge; 07-10-2010 at 08:20 AM.

  14. #14
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    I changed the tape and re-attached the fitting now. Few minutes without a leak, hoping for the best!

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    Quote Originally Posted by rge View Post
    BP compression fittings did not work on my swiftech mcr rad, since swiftech threads are recessed, and the BP fitting is too large to fit into the recessed area, so the BP fitting metal hits raised outer edge of swiftech metal around the threads, and so impossible to put any pressure on 0 ring.

    Unless swiftech rads have been redesigned, since I bought them.

    EDIT: I just tried BP rotary, even it wont fit on my swiftech rad, still too large to fit in recessed area. When I had mcr220 in loop I just used regular fitting on it. It is the same issue with EK reservoirs, the recessed area is too small for the relatively larger BP fitting diameter, but rotary works on those.

    That's the same problem I ran into - but the fat O-Ring solved it. Now it's tight leak free with about 1mm between the fitting and the rad surface.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jumper2high View Post
    That's the same problem I ran into - but the fat O-Ring solved it. Now it's tight leak free with about 1mm between the fitting and the rad surface.
    Thanks for info...I had wondered if that would work, next time I am using one I will do that.

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    Either a big momma O-Ring or use a real barb, I fear tape might not be 100% permanent leak seal in that case.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by tool_462 View Post
    Either a big momma O-Ring or use a real barb, I fear tape might not be 100% permanent leak seal in that case.
    Seemed pretty tight.

    I have alot of micro bubbles on the side of my res, will they just work themselfs out? All the big bubbles seem to be gone, I rocked the case back and forth a few times.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rge View Post
    BP compression fittings did not work on my swiftech mcr rad, since swiftech threads are recessed, and the BP fitting is too large to fit into the recessed area, so the BP fitting metal hits raised outer edge of swiftech metal around the threads, and so impossible to put any pressure on 0 ring.
    Looks like they rads was redesigned because im running a CC5 BP compression fittings and it's sealed well enough without problems.
    P.S: I bought rad in like 2 weeks ago.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Artemis View Post
    Seemed pretty tight.

    I have alot of micro bubbles on the side of my res, will they just work themselfs out? All the big bubbles seem to be gone, I rocked the case back and forth a few times.
    A few flicks and pinches of the tubing and res will take care of the last few small bubbles.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by tool_462 View Post
    A few flicks and pinches of the tubing and res will take care of the last few small bubbles.
    tapped on the res with a scewdriver and stuff but theres still tons of bubbles stuck on the res wall, no more visable ones in the tubing.

  22. #22
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    Air will most likely get trapped in the radiator, so you should (if you can) tilt the case around so that a bubble could escape through the exhaust hole of the radiator.

    Mine isn't mounted yet firmly (just sits on top of the case at the moment) - and when ever I move it a bit, bubbles run out of it.

  23. #23
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    ^ +1

    Quote Originally Posted by Artemis View Post
    tapped on the res with a scewdriver and stuff but theres still tons of bubbles stuck on the res wall, no more visable ones in the tubing.
    air like that took about 24hours to clean out fully in my loop.


  24. #24
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    Also I can hear the water going through my GPU block isthat bad?

    And here is a video of my loop specs in info:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=perkj2kYjtI

    You cant really see all the bubbles in the video, I took it with my phone.

  25. #25
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    if you just put the loop together it's normal, it will go away after a few hours to a day
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