Just scored a Taylor-Wharton 34XT on ebay!

[Expat GriZ]

Ok, just my opinion.....but in the interests of safety and logic I don't think I would transport the dewar with the withdrawal device attached. Just put the big cap on, get a small lock, lock it and you are good to go. No offense, and I could be wrong, but that device does not look like a TW issued device, and looks pretty flimsy for the actual pressures that can occur. Have you used the dewar with the WD attached?? Now to answer your other question, no..just the one probe in the base of the pot. I do a test mount ot two, check contact and usually fire up the rig and watch temps for a few seconds...this not only lets the paste warm up and flow around a little but shows me if I have a good mount or not by the temps shown on the meter. Hope this helps but seriously consider NOT transporting with that withdrawal device, completely different set up from the LD series.

[Dumo]

Imo, you don't need to use that wthdrwl device. It will take too much time.

Once you pour it in to the pot, it will evaporate in seconds then you need to fill it up again if no cold bug present.

[BenchZowner]

I wouldn't transport any dewar with the withdrawal device mounted. You can put my signature here!
What you should be "afraid" of would be the cops asking you questions about the dewar and the way you transport it ( it is safe, but the law says otherwise ).
The apartment people ain't a problem, and you don't have to run and hide from them, neither give them any explanations. If somebody catches up to you and asks questions kindly, then just tell him what it is, what you're using it for and that it's totally safe. Who knows, you may as well get a benching partner that way

Just make sure you secure the dewar with the seatbelt ( I use two actually to secure it to the point it doesn't move at all ).

[trans am]

Ok, just my opinion.....but in the interests of safety and logic I don't think I would transport the dewar with the withdrawal device attached. Just put the big cap on, get a small lock, lock it and you are good to go. No offense, and I could be wrong, but that device does not look like a TW issued device, and looks pretty flimsy for the actual pressures that can occur. Have you used the dewar with the WD attached?? Now to answer your other question, no..just the one probe in the base of the pot. I do a test mount ot two, check contact and usually fire up the rig and watch temps for a few seconds...this not only lets the paste warm up and flow around a little but shows me if I have a good mount or not by the temps shown on the meter. Hope this helps but seriously consider NOT transporting with that withdrawal device, completely different set up from the LD series.

Yes you are right. the withdrawal unit is not Taylor Wharton but it is compatible and has the locks and the grooves line up with the the center opening on the dewar.
I can hardly wait to get this sucker filled up. Thanks for the tips guys.

[Buckeye]

I wouldn't transport any dewar with the withdrawal device mounted. You can put my signature here!
What you should be "afraid" of would be the cops asking you questions about the dewar and the way you transport it ( it is safe, but the law says otherwise ).
The apartment people ain't a problem, and you don't have to run and hide from them, neither give them any explanations. If somebody catches up to you and asks questions kindly, then just tell him what it is, what you're using it for and that it's totally safe. Who knows, you may as well get a benching partner that way

Just make sure you secure the dewar with the seatbelt ( I use two actually to secure it to the point it doesn't move at all ).

Mine gets transported with the pressure top mounted, its in a secure location in the back of my Honda SRV, I have not had any problems in teh short 15 minute drive back to my house. It would be very bad to have LN2 splash out into the car while driving

In the US you must have the DOT sticker on the Dewar or even Airgas will not fill. Getting pulled over by the police should not be a problem if you have all documents with you, the recipt of where you had just gotten it filled up etc. so if they need they can call the place you filled it at.

How ever driving around with a wide mouth Dewar with no top on what so ever is just asking for trouble. If you had to slam on your brakes you could risk splashing LN2 all over the place inside your car. In fact in talking with the guys at Airgas here if they do fill one of those types and you are going to transport it inside your car they make you sign a disclaimer that says something like, you transport this at your own risk.

[trans am]

Mine gets transported with the pressure top mounted, its in a secure location in the back of my Honda SRV, I have not had any problems in teh short 15 minute drive back to my house. It would be very bad to have LN2 splash out into the car while driving

In the US you must have the DOT sticker on the Dewar or even Airgas will not fill. Getting pulled over by the police should not be a problem if you have all documents with you, the recipt of where you had just gotten it filled up etc. so if they need they can call the place you filled it at.

How ever driving around with a wide mouth Dewar with no top on what so ever is just asking for trouble. If you had to slam on your brakes you could risk splashing LN2 all over the place inside your car. In fact in talking with the guys at Airgas here if they do fill one of those types and you are going to transport it inside your car they make you sign a disclaimer that says something like, you transport this at your own risk.

Okay the dudes at Mckinney welding supply were really cool.
I got there just in time before they left for the weekend.
They supply all the LN2 for welding in the nyc subways. you should see this place! I shoulda taken some pics.
I told them about the AMD contest last summer with the liquid helium and they were all ears. These are not tech dudes FYI were taking big irish brooklyn blue collar, hardworking and old school. nicest guys and they love to hear stories like mine rather than angry underpaid new york city workers just there because its their job. The trip was so easy. I just picked up the dewar from my house got on the fdr and drove to 14th to get on 10th and ride the wave (green lights). rode the wave all the way to 40th st. without a single red light. I left work at 3:15 and in friday nyc rush hour traffic managed to get from e57th and park to houston and C and to get my dewar.

then left the house at 3:45 and got on fdr South and went all the way around the island and came up the west side hwy and got a car wash and still made it in time! 70 bux plus tax.

on the way home I was stopped on the fdr cause some douche bag in a lexus rx300 thought I was a suicide bomb car or some thing and the cops saw I was listening to some classic rock station and told me to have a beer for them when I get home. I think when they saw I was a fellow new yorker just looking to get some HW bot points they wanted to help me even more.


here are some pics.







I'm home finally doing a beer and gonna finish insulating and mounting the container. brb.

[trans am]

Okay I spent most of last night insulating the formula board but then as soon as I'm cranking down the container the UPS man (tucker) came over and he had a box. I wasnt expecting anything but it was another biostar board. Tpower i55! so I insulated that one as well.

http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/f...%20insulation/

now Im all set and ready to go. the withdrawal device works perfectly. LOL. I gotta tell u something....

just as i was about to to crank the container on the tpower I hear a knock on the door. I thought it was my neighbor jeremy on the 11th fl. Cuz 5 min pror I txt him to help me pour ln2. I open the door and its 3 beautiful babes from next door. they explain tthey are at her friends bday party next door to me and the bday girl is alergic to vodka and ask If I have any rum? wtf? rum? dudes Im such an idiot. I tell her all I have is IPA beer and that 160 proof devils springs I use on the dice benches. ANd I have a fricken ln2 dewar and my projector set up and my turbo nerd glasses on and my benching snow suit on and googles around my neck and the most retarded song playing in the background. they must think im jackass now. I feel so awkward. I swaer they didnt even look old enough to drink.. lol

I think every overclocker has fantasized over this exact scenario and I actually had it happen and screwed it completely. I shoulda told them to wait and run down and go to the liqu store and get a bottle of the captain and came back and finished mounting the container then go next door and asked the smarted and prettiest one to help me pour ln2while im in the bios. oh man. I totally blew this one. lemme see If I can get a decent bench at least. Maybe Ill go there in an hour or so and ask them for help.. I'll report back...

TA

[BenchZowner]

FAIL

Do not let the overclocking community down again dude!

[Hondacity]

ahhahahahhhahahah

[Marco André]

I also use the withdrawl device mounted when i need to refill or go somewhere with the dewar...

[trans am]

am I supposed to leave the valve open a tiny bit with the withdrawal attached? If I close it completely pressure builds at such a minimal rate that I can go to bed and wake up up the next day and needle is only at 9 o'clock position. I just open it if I see needle near 12 o clock position. then I just close the valve again. The only time I ever see it move up is if I tap the tank with my foot or leave it overnight.

[[XC] gomeler]

Is there no blow off valve? There should be a valve somewhere in your withdraw device that maintains a set pressure, usually 3 to 7 psi.

[Hondacity]

transport bleed valve? i forgot the term

[trans am]

Is there no blow off valve? There should be a valve somewhere in your withdraw device that maintains a set pressure, usually 3 to 7 psi.

Okay I see what you mean. That is the valve I was referring to. not the one that draws the ln2 up. the blower one. okay so that is closed right now and pressure stays around 3-6 psi.
if it goes past 6 or so. I usually blow some pressure out and close it again. how long does it normally take you guys to fill a thermos off the withdrawal nozzle? It takes me about 15 sec to get about half the thermos filled. I get so paranoid. This is so scary at first. I need to get used to this. its been raining cats and dogs in NY since sunday and its tough to bench by the window. everything gets condensation. I wanna do the hw bot h55 onboard video gigabyte challenge tonight on the USB3 board since it ends tomorrow.

http://hwbot.org/competition/gbt_h55_h57

[G H Z]

If everything is working right, the only time you need use the hand vent is when you want to remove the WD before the tank is empty. The VRV will handle tank pressure for you.

[Expat GriZ]

If everything is working right, the only time you need use the hand vent is when you want to remove the WD before the tank is empty. The VRV will handle tank pressure for you.

+1...correctomundo!!

[trans am]

If everything is working right, the only time you need use the hand vent is when you want to remove the WD before the tank is empty. The VRV will handle tank pressure for you.

okay so basically there are 2 emergency valves with rubber caps that are supposed to fly off if too much pressure builds and then the blower valve.
so should I lock the blower valve and keep it closed or should it be kinda loose on there so I hear air coming out? If I lose all the pressure then the withdrawal wont dispense ln2 right? thats why ive been keeping the blower closed off completely. I just masked and sprayed the usb3 board with conformal and did some clear nailpolish in the sensative areas around the socket. now im trying to decide if I should go with the traditional adhesive frost king insulation method or go with the quick eraser? The last couple of times I used eraser it kept getting lodged in the socket pins and I end up wasting time trying to get it out and risk damaging pins with a toothbrush. is there an easier and safer way to get that eraser fragments out of the pins? should I just heat it up really hot with a hairdryer 1st?

whats gonna be better in this damp weather? eraser as base then papertowel gasket then frostking over the paper? or should I just go frostking all the way and screw the eraser?

All I gotta say is this dewar kicks so much ass! Yeah the withdrawal is a little ghetto but it works fine. I just need to learn whats going on and how to work it correctly. Thanks everyone in the thread for pitching in and helping me out. I am really grateful to have your input.
I'm really surprised at how well this thing keeps the ln2 in tack.
I filled it friday and its now tuesday and its still heavy as hell. I need to start pouring some.

[BenchZowner]

Vaseline or another dielectric in the socket ( you can skip that, but I do it just to be as safe as possible )
Plastic ( conformal ) spray on the motherboard
Kneaded eraser and a layer of armaflex/k-flex/neoprene on top and on top of that some heavy duty kitchen paper.

[trans am]

Vaseline or another dielectric in the socket ( you can skip that, but I do it just to be as safe as possible )
Plastic ( conformal ) spray on the motherboard
Kneaded eraser and a layer of armaflex/k-flex/neoprene on top and on top of that some heavy duty kitchen paper.

Okay so I have a whole tube of luberex to put in the socket. Can I just do the sunken part in the center or do I have to do the pins too? I hate this crap. I had it in my dimms once to be cautious but it just attracted all the metal shavings from the damn springs off the container when I was cranking and it ended up screwing the 1st bank and thats the last time I do that. You know damn well as weve talked in the past about my problems with over insulating. I get to the point where I had so many things going on that I wasnt even able to get the board to post. like last weekend. thats why I had no results for you guys. I just sprayed the board and nail ploish and I stuck the stock cooler on and its posting. Im just gonna check to see if I have a decent bios on it and then get to the rest. so you think screw the frost king and just do eraser and then the thick neoprene gasket over that? That would sure make things faster!

[BenchZowner]

You can do just the whole socket ( center and pins ) [ if you do that make sure you go with the flow and don't apply pressure you can easily damage a few pins ] or just the center.
Kneaded eraser and then neoprene gasket = the way to go.

I insulate the socket area and the socket with kneaded eraser ( the kneaded eraser up to the CPU's IHS level, leaving the CPU's IHS only exposed ) and then 1 layer of neoprene gasket and heavy duty paper.

Works like a charm in humid areas

[trans am]

You can do just the whole socket ( center and pins ) [ if you do that make sure you go with the flow and don't apply pressure you can easily damage a few pins ] or just the center.
Kneaded eraser and then neoprene gasket = the way to go.

I insulate the socket area and the socket with kneaded eraser ( the kneaded eraser up to the CPU's IHS level, leaving the CPU's IHS only exposed ) and then 1 layer of neoprene gasket and heavy duty paper.

Works like a charm in humid areas

Okay but when it comes time to sell it on ebay how do I get this crap off?

okay i gotta run. the microwave just rang. i gotta get that eraser going. Im trying to find my damn vantage cd from the mushkin box. do I still need it or can I just get a cut down ver off guru3d? I dont think Ive ever even bothered with vantage but stupid rules say I need to have vantage which means I need a win7 install right? I have a raptor with win7 installed for this board ready to go but I might wanna use my ssd raid off the lsi for this one? does vantage get better points if I have an insanely fast ssd raid going off a lsi 9260? the usb3 has the slots for it!

[BenchZowner]

Get that CD, Vantage free edition is a no go.
A fast HDD is good for Vantage load times. Other than that nothing ( unless you mean PC Mark vantage ) [ don't even think about running PC Mark Vantage, it's very big and gives you no points as it's a non-point-rewarding program on HWbot ].

To get rid of the dielectric, use a hair dryer ( hot setting of course ) with the mobo upside down, it'll go away.

[trans am]

rad Thanks man. no yeah its not pc mark. Its the video one. its lame cuz I have this rad xp cutdown os I tweaked for 1M spi and 3d 2001. I just dled the free one and the patch from guru 3d. I got the grease in and the eraser and i did one square sheet of the frost king with the adhesive down bonded tight to the eraser. next I just need to do the back quick and a towel between the frost king and the neoprene gasket. I went to lowes last night so I stocked up and bought 2 rolls of the king and a long hose of the good neoprene that you can cut down and makes perfect size gaskets. Thanks for the tip with the grease. Im sure it will help others with the same hesitation to using grease.
BZ im glad you are not out chasing the ladies tonight so you can help me out.

[[XC] gomeler]

Vaseline in the socket is silly overkill with eraser. Here is how my M3E has been insulated for the last ~2 weeks under LN2 and cascade.



There is no vaseline involved, no paper towel, no armaflex. The eraser is built up above the height of the IHS and the armaflex donuts around my cascade evaporator enclosure and the armaflex sleeve around my F1EE gently press into the eraser and form an air-tight seal. I've been sitting around -90C to -120C IHS temperatures and running like on average for 6 to 10 hour runs with the longest being a ~16 hour session during a rainy day. The only issue I have is some slight condensation forming on the eraser if I'm running heavy benchmarks with lots of LN2 vapor blowing down on the board.

The backside of the board is sealed with paperthin eraser, I use a rolling pin and roll it flat and seal from the edge of the board to the 3rd DIMM slot to the 1st PCIe slot to the PWM. The backside forms some condensation but since it is sealed it just forms water droplets that I wipe off when I'm done.

In these images I didn't build my typical eraser moat, but if you are benching in high humidity environments it might be helpful. With my w3570 and heavy benchmarks like Vantage and wPrime I get a LOT of condensation but with the moat I just let it puddle and soak it up with a towel every 15-30 minutes.

I hope this helps.. no need to vaseline up boards if you prep properly.

edit: I should note that I haven't killed a board from condensation since early 2009. Blew up 2 boards due to mosfets popping, both on air. Eraser is awesome.

[trans am]

nice! I just got the CB and so exhausted. I need to get in the bed. I am more excited that I actually got the board to post and see the temp on the cpu decrease in the bios so I actually had my container on good. Ill let it sleep tonight and try again tomorrow. Actually saw my UEI go past -160c for the 1st time. That was pretty exciting! I heard crackling pop sounds like a campfire when the window was open and blowing hard. At first I thought it was the insulation contracting from the cold but now im wondering if it was ln2 splashing on the board? is this normal? I only had the container filled 1\2 way and I was really careful but maybe =I shoulda kept the window down a bit so less air was blowing in over the board.