DIY Waterblock (pics inside, 56k warning) and results!

[Shadow703793]

Here are the final results. Block was CNCed (Aluminum 6061); couldn't do on Copper due to cost. The water inlet fitting has some "fittings" inside of it to change/improve turbulent flow. The outlet fitting is untouched.

Leak testing:

Sorry for the mess. Took over my sis's bath room. :P

A quick rendering of the block:


The rad with a 120mm 110CFM Scythe Slipstream fan:


All assembled on a Celeron D 315 @ 3.6Ghz (CPUZ valid: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=261994 )


Calculated the ~ Wattage of this thing:

:ouch: 141W!!!! with OC. No wonder these were called Preshot's

The first 10 minutes of P95 small FFT

Temp2 is the CPU temp

After 35 minutes:

Temp2 is CPU.
Note: Voltages shown in SpeedFan are wrong.
Sorry, I had to take pics of the screen with a camera as the test PC was not hooked up to the net (couldn't print screen as the mouse wasn't hooked either :P ). Heck doesn't even have Win 2k SP4 loaded lol

Not bad eh? With a Thermaltake P4 SPARK7+ (lapped) the results were 64C under load.

The block was not lapped yet (waiting for 400-1000grit and papers to be back in stock at the local Autozone). CPU was previously lapped. The CPU block is a quite concave so lapping should improve results by ~3-4C.

Going to be doing tests on i7 or E2180/E5200 (both OCed to 3Ghz+) once I make a bolt in kit and lapp the CPU

[Shadow703793]

comments welcome!

[millertime359]

The heater core is aluminum too isn't it? Seeing both are aluminum, you won't have to worry about the mixed metals. Looks good, good job.

[Boulard83]

Nice one shadow !

Its been a long time ive seen you on a forum.

Impressive temps for a DIY kit

[Boogerlad]

nicely done.

[PatRaceTin]

good diy!!! why not use Coretemp / Realtemp / hwmonitor

[Waterlogged]

If those barbs on the block are brass or copper, best fill the loop with a healthy dose of anti freeze to prevent corrosion.

[AndrewZorn]

looks brass to me

[iandh]

Nice DIY, I would suggest removing a couple outer circles of pins to give the water exiting the center barb a clear pathway to the outlet barb, that would make sure more of the surface area is utilized evenly, and likely lower the restriction.

[Shadow703793]

looks brass to me

It is brass, but it's got a Automotive clear coating on it so I really don't need to worry about mixed metals. The rad is full aluminum.

why not use Coretemp / Realtemp / hwmonitor

The set up is currently tested on a Celeron D 315 (aka Netburst era) CPU so CoreTemp,RealTemp won't work. HW Mon aparently needs Win 2k SP4 The OS is bare Win 2k gold.

[Waterlogged]

It is brass, but it's got a Automotive clear coating on it so I really don't need to worry about mixed metals. The rad is full aluminum.

Do not under estimate the power of rushing water. Gabe said the same thing about the double layer of Mil spec'd plating on the GTX and there were still ppl with problems.

[grasskicker509]

props for DIY...nice temps too

[Shadowtester]

Also when you screw the barbs into the block I can pretty much bet you that the clear coat on the threads will get damaged so you will end up with contact between the two different metals. You should either find some aluminum barbs or as said before make sure you use a healthy dose of Antifreeze to control the galvanic corrosion.