Returning to the water world

[Voodoo Rufus]

I'm starting to collect some pieces for a rig upgrade, and want to bounce my parts list off this community.

Goal:
Low noise (Scythe Sflex 1900rpm on fan controller)
Single CPU loop (i7 920 D0 OCed to 4GHz+)

What I have:
Swiftech GTZ Ci7
Mountain Mods Pinnacle 24

What I'm planning on obtaining:
Thermochill PA120.4, 15mm spacing, top mounted exhausting out
Swiftech MCP355 DDC3.2 <-- should I get the DDC3.25 instead or not worry about it?
EK X-top Rev. 2
Swiftech MCRES Micro Rev.2
Tygon 7/16" ID, 11/16" OD tubing, metal worm clamps
iandh Silver Killcoils, distilled water

A note:
Not a fan of Laing D5s as I had them in the past and considered them too noisy above speed level 2.

I think this is a pretty decent list. Are there any suggestions or improvements to be made?

[WaterFlex]

Voodoo Rufus
Scythe Kaze Master Ace 5,25'' Black KM02-BK
+
4 x Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F

[nikhsub1]

I would go for the 3.25, supposedly a good deal better. Why not go with compression fittings? They are very easy and nice to work with but the initial cost is a lot...

[Kuntz]

A note:
Not a fan of Laing D5s as I had them in the past and considered them too noisy above speed level 2.

I am not sure if the Laing D5's have improved, you mounted yours incorrectly, or it was faulty, but my D5 is 100% silent. The only way I can hear it is if I turn everything in my room off, including the florescent lights, stop all my fans, take off both side panels, and stick my ear almost on the D5. Then I barely hear the high pitched whine of it. And this is at any speed setting btw.

[kinghong1970]

btw, are you Rufus from voodoo boards?

[Voodoo Rufus]

The D5 I had had an annoying high pitch whine to the motor, and it was even noticeable outside my room.

Hey Nikh, that's the reason I'm staying away from comp. fittings. Cost too much for my tastes at the moment. I'd need 8 of them, and that's $40 as opposed to $18. I suppose the difference isn't that much in the long run. I'll think on it.

I have a Lamptron Fanatic controller that I'll use to vary the fan speeds. Low in the winter and while I'm home, high speed for when I go to work and close all the windows again. Good suggestion on the 1600 rpm version. 1900 wouldn't get me that much more performance anyways, and I already run 3 at that speed on my intakes and CPU fan presently.

I have no idea what voodoo boards is aside from the defunct 3dfx ones.

[lollerskater69]

Get the Heatkiller 3.0 or EK Supreme LT> Apogee GTZ. The are a good deal better although the HK's are only available @ performance-pcs.com and sidewindercomputers.com and are often out of stock.

[Voodoo Rufus]

Already bought the GTZ used for a good price.

[The Water Dog]

The old version of D5 had the high pitch whine , but not anymore. I cant hear mine

[lollerskater69]

Sounds good then man. It isn't a bad block

[Voodoo Rufus]

It looks like I'll lose roughly 2C to the Heatkiller and 1C to the EK block.

Is there much difference between the Heatkiller 3.0 and the LT acetal topped version besides weight and cost?

[Kuntz]

The D5 I had had an annoying high pitch whine to the motor, and it was even noticeable outside my room.

That has definitely changed then. You couldn't hear mine from 6 inches away if your life depended on it.

[Capt Proton]

It looks like I'll lose roughly 2C to the Heatkiller and 1C to the EK block.

Is there much difference between the Heatkiller 3.0 and the LT acetal topped version besides weight and cost?

Insides are the same, only difference is what the top is made of, so, no difference in performance. Well, the copper one will transmit some heat to the case air, but, that would be negligible.

[Voodoo Rufus]

Well, I'm not going to pay an extra $20 for the metal topped one, so I'll stick with what block I have coming to me.

I'm also looking at these compression fittings and am trying to come to a conclusion on what would work well. I've heard that the GTZ requires double o-rings in order to seal properly. Is this correct?

This is what I'm looking at:

My options for 1/2" ID tubing:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/fecofig1th1i.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bi1cofifor5o.html

My options for 7/16" ID tubing:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bi7cofifor5o.html

I used to tend to prefer 7/16" ID because of my old case's space constraints. This is less of a concern with the Pinnacle case, so do you guys think 1/2" would be fine now?

Finishing up my purchase list right now.

[millertime359]

You don't need double o-rings. Just swap the o-rings out on the fittings you choose with the o-rings that come with the GTZ and you will be all set.

[3Z3VH]

Insides are the same, only difference is what the top is made of, so, no difference in performance. Well, the copper one will transmit some heat to the case air, but, that would be negligible.

Watch what you say, because there are more than just two versions of the HK3.0.

The CU and LT are identical, except for the top. The LC version has a lower fin density in the actual block, so it does not perform as well.

Both the LC and LT have Acetal tops, but you can tell them apart because the LT has a stainless steel strip down the center, over the threads. The LC is an all acetal top.

[Voodoo Rufus]

I think he got it right, as I asked about the LT, not the LC.

[sinticfury]

Hey I think you should really get the D5 along with a Primochill Typhoon III, Makes it that much more silent, if it wasnt already lololol. Well for fittings you can go for the primochill ghost fittings which are coloured and are compressions so they dont require a clamp. You should wait on Thermochill, As the new owners are changing the fan spacings so it matches the otherones then in the future you can change out your rad without mods. Other reccomendation for the rad is an XSPC one. Never liked thermochill much (sorry!) but yeah. Overall I think your gonna have fun.