hey jamal, what did you do to condensate proof ur wb's and did you use dielectric grease for the pin holes?
Yea< lotsa dielectric grease in the socket, around the socket, ect. neoprene in the center of the socket after the grease,basicaly put it everywhere I thought moisture might occur. I coated the back of the mobo with liquid electrical tape as it can peel away clean if you need to remove it. for the closed cell foam I just bought an assortment of weather striping and expermented to get the right thickness for my temps . I recomend hooking up the coolant lines and waterblock(s) and pumping the chilled fluid through them for a few days while experimenting with insulation and different coolant mixtures before mounting it to our expensive hardware.I got all my good ideas from these forums , heheOriginally posted by mrnuke
hey jamal, what did you do to condensate proof ur wb's and did you use dielectric grease for the pin holes?
JAMAL,
Your Chiller unit is truly a Thing of Beauty! Im very impressed! You must have put a lot of long hours into that project. I must commend you on that not only does it look very effective in chilling your water, but its also very attractive. Very nice setup!
You must either be single, or have a very understanding woman in your life.
sSHhEeesHh !!>..Originally posted by GeekGoddess
JAMAL,
Your Chiller unit is truly a Thing of Beauty! Im very impressed! You must have put a lot of long hours into that project. I must commend you on that not only does it look very effective in chilling your water, but its also very attractive. Very nice setup!
so i guess it's time for my to-be-chiller to show up
some words upfront. this used to be a beverage cooler, so it isn't anywhere as powerful as an a/c unit - but we'll see what temps it is actually capable of reaching.
atm it's being dissected - all the surplus parts will be removed and the rest will then be spit-shined, as some of the other parts already are.
this is the whole unit. the biggie black bit in the background are 2 mora ga radiators that were put together for a quick loop to just test them for possible leaks. and they did a good job of showing the condensing water. the water temp in the rez was ~-5°C with the room temp at the time of the test being ~10-13°C -> HEAVY! condensation!
the pic shows 3 of the 4 fans, plus the original metal papst fan. 2 fans are right behind the condenser running at 5v. atop those 2 fans are 2 pieces of plexi that just serve as a shroud for the fans.
the 2 fans around the compressor are mostly off or running at 5v - this is just a precautional setup for high outside temps.
this here is the small compressor that's delivering the cooling goodness, a danfoss fr7.5g charged with r134a. the leftmost bit is the drier, sanded with 400-1000' sandpaper and later on coated with a layer of clear lacquer. so far the lacquer does a goob job - no blistering at all.
the compressor itself still needs a bit of cleaning - that greyish goop is really hard to remove - even paint thinner didn't get it off. hmmmm i guess i'll have to paint it blue
sky / s!p - we are oldskool, dammit.
SKY, very nice! Looks awesome, Keep up the good work.
and here comes the actual rez with the evap (that silver piping).
at the time of the picture the whole setup was turned of for some time - so there's no ice on the evap. temps measured on the evap in the top left corner (about where that whiteish tube crosses the pic) gave me around -10°C - not that much, but it's at the end of the evap. the coldest part is deep down at the bottom of the rez. and besides my temp-measuring was pretty cumbersome - a kty110 thermistor hooked to a cheapo multimeter - reading resistances of the display
while there's still only pure water in the rez, i guess the temps are ok. so far the actual water temp was around -6°C. next week i'm going for some g48 glysantin from basf - that should get the temps a good deal down (at least i hope so).
that's it for now. whenever my waterblocks show up, i'll post a follow up on this.
hm while i'm at it. does anyone know of a good (=accurate) tempsensor / lcd setup? i wanted to go for the digidoc 5 deal, but it's said to be only 0°C-100°C - not exactly what i need. as i'm going to build a custom cube for this whole chiller, i want it to include some lcds showing the temps and an option to adjust the fans from outside the case... hm maybe even selfadjusting...
sky / s!p - we are oldskool, dammit.
thanks geekgoddess!
the pump inside the rez is a maxijet/powerhead 1200 - doing pretty good so far - just needs a little bit of neoprene underneath to stop its vibrations from passing through the entire setup.
the 2 mora radiators i talked about earlier are part of a "backup" plan. one is supposed to keep my main rig cool (palo1800+) while the second is the actual backup for my gaming/benching rig (tbb1700+ @2.4g) - because i ain't going to drag that chiller around to a lan at a friends place. that chiller weighs around 25-30kg, add another 14 liters of coolant in the rez...
ah well.. final pic of the drier close up with the focus on some piping in the back that still needs some cleaning since its behind the compressor and below the condensor - thus inaccessible atm.
sky / s!p - we are oldskool, dammit.
Looks even better seeing the newer pix,,,hehe,,nice and shiny!
ya im working on mine right now!!! and hey jamalco thats some sweet ass work u did there!!!! props man i never thought of paintin the compressor
In the works... P5wdh | E6600 | G-skill 6400 hz | Ocz Gamextreme 700w | 2x Wd 250 raid-0 | 7600gs until i get my x1950pro
Main Rig: - Ic7-g 2.4c @3.3 1.6v| 2x 256mb corsahair 3500 2-3-3-5 | 9700128mb | Antec430 truepower | mcw478uht cpu @ 10c full load
Server:- Epox 8rda+ 2100 @ 2.4 1.85v | 2x 256 corshair 3200 twinx | msi5200 | TTGI520 | slk800 40c full load soon to be watercooled.....
Jamal, are you ready for the next step?
We can do better. Since this system is charged for a much heavier load (A/C), it now has too much refrigerant in it. Your next step is to get a piercing valve and a set of guages. Install the piercing valve on the process tube. That's the stubbed off tube on the compressor.Well there it is, -25c both chips under normal load. The coolant temp stays pretty constant Iv'e only seen it raise 2c loaded as hot as I can get it. Iv'e gained 216 mhz over my ambient temp water cooling .
Run the system until the coolant is at its lowest temperature (under load). Put your low side guage on the piercing valve. Then remove a little refrigerant, wait 10-15 minutes and see if the coolant temperature drops. Keep doing that until the coolant temperature stops dropping. This is the optimum refrigerant charge for the load. If the coolant temperature rises, you have gone a step too far.
Keep in mind that if the low side is in a vacuum, you must shut it down in order to remove refrigerant. You don't want to suck air into the system.
Last edited by Gary Lloyd; 12-23-2003 at 06:52 PM.
I wonder if a hot glue gun could be used to hold it in place?Good morning Gary. Thats pretty much just where it wanted to be . It did seperate from the side wall towards the bottom of the tank positioning the Danner pump (which went in first) took care of the that.Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
WOW... Very nice work.
I like your way of making a compartment for the returning coolant. How did you get it to stay in position?
Sky, your reservoir is HUGE. The smaller, the better. It must take forever to chill all of that coolant.
squeezed this in tonight, waitin on quick disconnects and tubing, tubing should be here soon. Gary, if you need more pics, i would like someone to help me on how to make the cooler secure instead of just hanging off. I think i might need to shave the shaft back a bit, cut some other stuff and move the control unit......
How much would a set of gagues (for what refridgerent R22, R12, R502 set?) and a piercing valve cost?Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Run the system until the coolant is at its lowest temperature (under load). Put your low side guage on the piercing valve. Then remove a little refrigerant, wait 10-15 minutes and see if the coolant temperature drops. Keep doing that until the coolant temperature stops dropping. This is the optimum refrigerant charge for the load. If the coolant temperature rises, you have gone a step too far.
hey guys, I had to paint my A/C it was all rusted out . It was the next natural step after sanding , hehe ,. As a professional painter in the rustproofing buisness. ( I line and coat pipeline) This was nothing , lol.Also as an artist I like things to look good.Originally posted by Pimpsho
ya im working on mine right now!!! and hey jamalco thats some sweet ass work u did there!!!! props man i never thought of paintin the compressor
No Gary not ready yet, I still need to aquire the piercing valve and the guages this may take a couples weeks allowing for the holidays.And say I let to much out , I would like to have the good stuff to put back in. I really can't wait to start learning to tune.Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Jamal, are you ready for the next step?
We can do better. Since this system is charged for a much heavier load (A/C), it now has too much refrigerant in it. Your next step is to get a piercing valve and a set of guages. Install the piercing valve on the process tube. That's the stubbed off tube on the compressor.
Run the system until the coolant is at its lowest temperature (under load). Put your low side guage on the piercing valve. Then remove a little refrigerant, wait 10-15 minutes and see if the coolant temperature drops. Keep doing that until the coolant temperature stops dropping. This is the optimum refrigerant charge for the load. If the coolant temperature rises, you have gone a step too far.
Keep in mind that if the low side is in a vacuum, you must shut it down in order to remove refrigerant. You don't want to suck air into the system.
I havn't had a lot of experience with hot glue but I have my doubts about glueing metal and plastic together. Then bathing it in solvents like ethanol/ methanol.Originally posted by Gary Loyd.
I wonder if a hot glue gun could be used to hold it in place?
wrong; Every increase of 3db doubles the sound pressureOriginally posted by sky
that rig is a thing of beauty! i like it
did you paint that compressor in that nice blueish color or was it like that from the beginning (after cleaning, of course)? awesome, so now i have to get my chiller up and running!
also... those 92db in your sig aren't for real, are they? i mean 92db .. i was freaking out with my coolermaster at 47db
btw what is the throughput of that biga** fan? my chiller had a 120mm papst 4650n installed (94cfm, 46db). i replaced it with 2 deltas running at 7v (got 3 more if needed
56db would be 4 times as loud as 47db
Last edited by ns_ripper; 12-24-2003 at 01:19 AM.
You will find as you look back upon your life that the moments when you have truly lived are the moments when you have done things in the spirit of love !
It looks like you have a smaller unit than I did . I got mine to fit on the base plate (don't know what else to call it) enough to stay there. I cut the edges that stick up and laid them flat so that the cooler sat flush .Yea , cut the shaft back as far as you can. I even moved the entire fan assembly forward omiting the shroud and later reconstructed it out of plastic as per Gary and Sky's advice. Also I completly rewired the unit . Removing the fan speed control,thermistat and power switch and replacing it all with a single toggle. Just on /off , full power.Originally posted by mrnuke
squeezed this in tonight, waitin on quick disconnects and tubing, tubing should be here soon. Gary, if you need more pics, i would like someone to help me on how to make the cooler secure instead of just hanging off. I think i might need to shave the shaft back a bit, cut some other stuff and move the control unit......
not that it matters the 92db in my sig was hyperbole. Didnt feel it worth mentiong here in a thread about water chillers, nice catch though.Originally posted by ns_ripper
wrong; Every increase of 3db doubles the sound pressure
56db would be 4 times as loud as 47db
yea Sky , you might want to think about how to get that evap out of that bathtub. There's got to be a way to bend it into a smaller container.Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Sky, your reservoir is HUGE. The smaller, the better. It must take forever to chill all of that coolant.
what i learned was below 20db every increase by 5db doubles, above 20db it takes a 10db increase to double.Originally posted by ns_ripper
wrong; Every increase of 3db doubles the sound pressure
56db would be 4 times as loud as 47db
ah wait.. i just saw .. we're not talking about the same thing. with sound pressure you're perfectly right, but i wasn't talking about sound pressure, but the actual volume (or whatever that is called). thehuman ear realizes (right word?) a 1000 Hz humm as being twice as loud, when the difference between two humms is ~10db - that's what i was getting at. but sound pressure and what i was talking about isn't the same. the latter is the subjective feel or something like that
sky / s!p - we are oldskool, dammit.
Looking good, mrnuke.
That's exactly what I had in mind when I suggested placing the evaporator diagonally in the cooler.
The cap tube can be soft soldered to the suction line, then insulate them both. The exchange of heat between them makes the evaporator more efficient. If you cannot soft solder them, an acceptable alternative would be to wrap them tightly together with electrical tape.
BTW, you may want to downsize these pics a bit.
Last edited by Gary Lloyd; 12-24-2003 at 08:43 AM.
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