Chiller/ac unit

[mrnuke]

it will cost enough if you take it to a refridgerator shop. Buddy of mine had his vapo spring a leak. He fixed the piping w/ a solder and got it refilled w/ R22 for about $75-150, i can't remember

[Pimpsho]

lol for that much ill just get another

[Silver]

Just want to stay posted on the thread. Find it interesting.

[LTi]

aww damn sucks pimpsho
i have been awaiting this thread for long long time
because im trying to get this setup some time in teh summer.
well better luck next time.
btw nice making this thread, answered alot of questions i had

[Pimpsho]

ya im currently biddin on another unit on ebay i kinda want to get a higher btu unit and im also not messing arround with this one...its gona be perfect

[lallend]

Pimsho, how bout just using the one you have. Bend everything to where you like it and then get it fixed by a refrigeration dude.

That way everything is where you want it and it works too

If you were to get another A/C unit, you are faced with the same thing and it may spring a leak while trying to bend the pipes. If that happens, you will have bought 2 units with nothing to gain

Just something to think about is all. Good luck Pimpsho!

[Pimpsho]

Originally posted by lallend
Pimsho, how bout just using the one you have. Bend everything to where you like it and then get it fixed by a refrigeration dude.

That way everything is where you want it and it works too

If you were to get another A/C unit, you are faced with the same thing and it may spring a leak while trying to bend the pipes. If that happens, you will have bought 2 units with nothing to gain

Just something to think about is all. Good luck Pimpsho!

very true man ive been thinking about it and its a toss up...cuz its gona cost atleast 75bux im thinkin to refill it and all. so ill prolly figure it out tomaro cuz right now im messin with my girlfriends comp she just got a new setup today so im already tweakin it all up for her i told her she didnt have a choice on whether or not i got to fuxor with it

[LTi]

i agree with lallend , u wouldnt have to go thru the trouble now after just bending everything into place, and now u dont have to worry about leaks

few questions,
what kind of water temps do you guys expect from this system?
does teh system run 24/7 ?
are pelts needed at those temps ? ( too much power usage heh, compressor and peltier system i think )

1 more, if some time i needed to go Direct die, what systems do u recomend ( im not a fan of the prommie price ) and can i get a AC shop to put it together and gass it and stuff? ( prolly run me up to a prommie price but oh well )

[Gary Lloyd]

A window A/C could be made into a direct die. The only difference between direct die and chiller is the type of evaporator.

Of course we would want a more restrictive cap tube and a more flexible suction line.

[Gary Lloyd]

Pimpsho, if I were you I would put a low side access valve on it, and repair the leak. Then decide if you want to fill it yourself or have someone else do it.

[Pimpsho]

puttin the valve on would be pretty easy i assume right? just cuttin the copper pipe somewhere(u would have to show me) and then braze it in.. also how would i go about fixin the leak?

[Gary Lloyd]

Usually there is a process tube on the compressor. It is pinched off an brazed shut. This is where you would braze in an access valve. Or you can braze it into the suction line. How would you fix the leak? Braze it.

[Gary Lloyd]

How are you doing with your system, mrnuke? Make any progress over the weekend?

[mrnuke]

lol, not really, i had a lot of stuff to do, but i also need to know where to find some quick disconnects for 1/2" tubing so i can disconnect my chiller from the rest of the computer for when i go lan or move it. Any help on that would be great. I promase i will have it done before christmas with pictures!

[Pimpsho]

Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Usually there is a process tube on the compressor. It is pinched off an brazed shut. This is where you would braze in an access valve. Or you can braze it into the suction line. How would you fix the leak? Braze it.

alright now to get going on this thing... should i just cut out where it was cracked and then put a lil coupler over the 2 ends and braze them? cuz would it be really weak if there is a crack then just some brazing over it? and i know what ur talking about to put the access valve cuz i see a tube where its pinched like two times and it just dead ends...so what would i do? just cut the pinched parts outa the copper then braze the valve on?

[NitroRat]

Set your evap where you want it so you won't have to move it anymore if you have to extend both inlet and outlet nows the time. When you have it in the right spot, pick a spot on the tubing that is straight and trim and add flexible copper tubing and couplers, flux and solder, evacuate, you could let it sit overnight with a vacuum and if it stays in vacuum you should have no leaks. Then charge it up and chill away...

[mrnuke]

i worked a bit more last night, i'll post a pic later of what all i did.

[Gary Lloyd]

Sorry, guys. I have fallen behind here. Been having computer problems... LOL

Without a doubt I have the oldest and slowest computer around here, and it is giving me fits. I know a lot about cooling, but am a noob when it comes to computers. Trying to upgrade the modem, and it just refuses to be upgraded.

Pimpsho, you should be able to just braze over the crack. The trick is to get it just the right temperature so you can butter the material on thick. Done right, it will be stronger than the copper.

[Gary Lloyd]

...and i know what ur talking about to put the access valve cuz i see a tube where its pinched like two times and it just dead ends...so what would i do? just cut the pinched parts outa the copper then braze the valve on?

In the pics, I see a pinched off tube at the condenser. This would be for a high side access. Is there a similar tube on the compressor? That's where we really need an access. Either on the process tube or on the suction line.

[Gary Lloyd]

Guys, how are these projects coming?

Pimpsho, this is a little late, but here is how I would have bent the suction line in order to avoid breaking it: The suction line came out of the coil, then down, over, and up, in a wide U shape. I would have made a 90 degree horizontal bend in the bottom center of the U, making the line wrap around behind the bottom of the evaporator. I would then straighten the horizontal line alongside the top of the compressor to match.

Of course, this is just going by the pictures. The reality may not match.

[Pimpsho]

very true! im working on a work bench so that im not doing all my stuff onthe ground...(back starts to hurt ) but i was wondering how i could fill it back up... i see those lil guages uguys have that show pressure i think.... but what else would i need besides some freon to get this thing going again?

[Redwolf]

A good tempature probe.

[jan]

Originally posted by Redwolf
A good tempature probe.

What is a "good" and "acurate" temperature probe.
what would it cost. >= 100$ or less then 100$ ?

[Redwolf]

Alot of people say to use Fluke. Personaly I like Omega. They make a great product for alot less. The HH11 $65 or HH12 $75
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?r...1_HH12&Nav=m02
Or like the one I've got HH509 for $120
http://www.omega.com/pptst/HH508_509.html


For the Euro guys.. Testo. You can buy them in the US too thou.
They make some nice pocket type surface thermomters.
http://www.testo.de/ZZ/en/index2.htm

[mrnuke]

woohoo, done with finals, so time to do some work on my chiller before i go to the sugar bowl! Gary, sorry i haven't posted any new pic's been really busy with finals. I'm gonna get to work on it this weekend and i have already cut in the cooler where the return line and cap tube come out.