Can anyone rate the primochill Typhoon III?

[millertime359]

I have purchased a waterblock for the chipset of the EVGA classified.
I already have a heatkiller 3.0.
My current setup is T3 to heatkillerto rad and back to T3.
How should I setup up new block too?
Thanks.

Are you cooling GPUs, if so which one and how many? If you have a 120x3 for your I7, then adding the MB to that loop is just fine.

If your running GPUs also, you might want to look into getting another rad and adding those to their own sub loop.

[Barso]

Not cooling any GPU's.
Just the HK3.0 and the new chipset block.
What order should the loop be?
res-CPU-chipset-rad-res?

[surfhick]

@ millertime359

I am wanting to cool my videocard. Your system looks like 1 loop for rad. And another for CPU and GPU. Is this so? I'm running a T3 now but only cooling the CPU right now. It would be great if I didn't need another radiator. I have a Swiftech 320 and am looking to cool a GTX 275. I'm also still on a Core 2.

[millertime359]

@ millertime359

I am wanting to cool my videocard. Your system looks like 1 loop for rad. And another for CPU and GPU. Is this so? I'm running a T3 now but only cooling the CPU right now. It would be great if I didn't need another radiator. I have a Swiftech 320 and am looking to cool a GTX 275. I'm also still on a Core 2.

Yep, I have my MCR320 on its own loop and HK 3.0 and MCW60 on their own loops and everything is fine.

My E8400 is still stock clocked. I haven't gotten a chance to work on the OC yet. The GTX260 is running at 650/1400/1100. I haven't stressed the CPU yet, but playing COD4 the other day, I saw a peak of 46 on GPU and 42 on CPU. I think ambient was around 25.

I would just play around with it and see what you like.

@Barso,

Loop order doesn't matter, just set it up for shortest tubing.

[Hondacity]

Yep, I have my MCR320 on its own loop and HK 3.0 and MCW60 on their own loops and everything is fine.

how is the heat transfered to the rad if the rad is in its own loop?

[surfhick]

Thanks millertime359. All I've done so far, is crank my E8400 up 3.6 ghz. It barely hit 40 C. on the inner core. Following your lead, or should I say copying you, would sure save me some money. Compared to my original idea.

[surfhick]

how is the heat transfered to the rad? if the rad is in its own loop?

I think the heat transfers in the reservoir. If I'm remembering some earlier posts correctly.

Or, the cooler liquid from the radiator mixes with the warmer liquid from the blocks in the T3 reservoir.

[millertime359]

I think the heat transfers in the reservoir. If I'm remembering some earlier posts correctly.

Or, the cooler liquid from the radiator mixes with the warmer liquid from the blocks in the T3 reservoir.

He was pointing out a typo. Technically it is a sub-loop and not an individual loop.

IIRC, BoxGods has said that the water gets turned over 17 times a min so it shouldn't a problem doing that. You can always try just putting everything on it's own loop. I haven't tried that as my temps are fine and I'm not certain if I would see a difference.

[surfhick]

He was pointing out a typo. Technically it is a sub-loop and not an individual loop.

IIRC, BoxGods has said that the water gets turned over 17 times a min so it shouldn't a problem doing that. You can always try just putting everything on it's own loop. I haven't tried that as my temps are fine and I'm not certain if I would see a difference.

Didn't catch that. I always call it two loops for simplicites sake.

Thats what I was going to do at first but since my setup is almost the same as yours I'm going to do the same.

[BoxGods]

Yeah, the nomenclature is a little obtuse. (I love that sentence lol).

Dual loops is two discrete loops each with it's own pump and radiator etc.

Parallel loops are typically a single pump that drives two "branches" or sub loops, although obviously you could configure multiple pumps in a parallel configuration. A better definittion might be a setup where water in the loop/s will eventually pass through every component.

Millertime is correct that the fluid exchanges in the T3 are quite rapid. Even if only one of your loops has a radiator on it it will still cool all the fluid in both loops because the system will always hit equilibrium. If you were to calculate how long it takes water to make a full circuit of your loop/s you might be a little shocked to see how rapidly this happens.

[NaeKuh]

Even if only one of your loops has a radiator on it it will still cool all the fluid in both loops because the system will always hit equilibrium.

^ +1 this...

The only time where i wouldn't see it play out carefully is if your Rad loop was much much much longer then your block loop.

[blind_ripper]

is it normal that this crap res keeps leaking from every mounting hole ????
surely u have to do something here, trying to fix it my self because hell im not gone wait for a RMA or something!!!

if u want some pics where my problems are boxgods let me know its just pissing me off that i payed 60€ for somethings thats leaking from day ONE.

[millertime359]

is it normal that this crap res keeps leaking from every mounting hole ????
surely u have to do something here, trying to fix it my self because hell im not gone wait for a RMA or something!!!

if u want some pics where my problems are boxgods let me know its just pissing me off that i payed 60€ for somethings thats leaking from day ONE.

Are you using BP, Koolance, etc fittings or the included fittings?

If you are using any of the other fittings you have to use a thicker o-ring. The o-ring is a USA standard #9. Some guys from overseas have had issues finding that exact o-ring. Vapor did post measurements, but I forget exactly where.

I did a quick google search and found these measurements. I'm not positive they are correct though: 5/8"OD x 7/16"ID x 3/32" wall

Some guys have taken the o-rings off the included fittings and stacked them on the o-rings from the other fittings and haven't had an issue that way.

[blind_ripper]

Are you using BP, Koolance, etc fittings or the included fittings?

If you are using any of the other fittings you have to use a thicker o-ring. The o-ring is a USA standard #9. Some guys from overseas have had issues finding that exact o-ring. Vapor did post measurements, but I forget exactly where.

I did a quick google search and found these measurements. I'm not positive they are correct though: 5/8"OD x 7/16"ID x 3/32" wall

Some guys have taken the o-rings off the included fittings and stacked them on the o-rings from the other fittings and haven't had an issue that way.

i changed the O-rings on my bp fittings with thicker one's that not the problem.
the one's that came with the res leak like hell!!

the res leaks at the mounting to fit it in the case !!

[millertime359]

i changed the O-rings on my bp fittings with thicker one's that not the problem.
the one's that came with the res leak like hell!!

the res leaks at the mounting to fit it in the case !!

What coolant are you using?

[Ketzer7]

Or another question is, did you tighten the mounting points too hard? Is there any cracking or spalling around the metal female threading points? I mean, looking at mine, I can't see how it would leak around those unless they were cracked because they look fully encased in acrylic.

[blind_ripper]

What coolant are you using?

nothing to do with leaking .

Or another question is, did you tighten the mounting points too hard? Is there any cracking or spalling around the metal female threading points? I mean, looking at mine, I can't see how it would leak around those unless they were cracked because they look fully encased in acrylic.

yeah they where cracked there, i did not tighten them to hard.
first mount = cracked very easy, sure crap for me.
i cant find my self in where that should be normal! when the pump is running no leaking, when its shutdown leaking.

same for pre packed fittings, pure crap (not even bother using them)

[millertime359]

nothing to do with leaking .

Actually it may. Ethylene Glycol is not suppose to be used in the T3 and someone has already posted here about using it and having some really bad results.

Just trying to rule some things out.

[blind_ripper]

Actually it may. Ethylene Glycol is not suppose to be used in the T3 and someone has already posted here about using it and having some really bad results.

Just trying to rule some things out.

no glycol's in the coolant, il post pics later on tonight.

[millertime359]

no glycol's in the coolant, il post pics later on tonight.

Great, that will help alot.

It sucks you are having issues, but BoxGods and Brian are great to deal. I had issues with my first one and they took care if it.

[Ketzer7]

What was your issue MT? Don't think I remember seeing you say anything about that

[millertime359]

What was your issue MT? Don't think I remember seeing you say anything about that

It was way back. I got one of the first T3s with the yellow band and had hair line fractures around the band. The fill port holes weren't drilled properly either. There were small chips and the countersink wasn't uniform. It looked like the bit was rolled during drilling.

Its all good though. Brian and Boxgods sent a new one and it has worked perfect ever since.

[Mech0z]

I just heard demand is still big for this reservoir so much that my danish retailer cant get hold of any, is this true?

[blind_ripper]

botem one

top one


u can clearly see thet the coolant is coming out, hairline crack at fill port in front also.
had to gleu these up some, but not 100% leak free. it whas gleuing or no pc for me.

the other side is giving away now to and started leaking also this night!

[millertime359]

I just heard demand is still big for this reservoir so much that my danish retailer cant get hold of any, is this true?

Seems to be. Looks like Primochill is OOS again. If you want one, I would just call Brian @ Primochill and find out when they come back into stock.