Silverstone TJ07, X58 Classified, Dominator GT, i7 920 D0 (3849B041)

[Kuntz]

great parts you got there..
but why you didnt use the new EK's classfield waterblock?
keep up the good work!

I don't think it matters too much which blocks you use. Koolance is ranked #2 on the most recent list HESmelaugh put together (for i7's). And when I checked NCIX at the time, there were no EK blocks listed!

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=224976

[millertime359]

I love your creativity Kuntz. Keep it up.

[systemviper]

I don't think it matters too much which blocks you use. Koolane is ranked #2 on the most recent list HESmelaugh put together (for i7's). And when I checked NCIX at the time, there were no EK blocks listed!

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=224976

i like the look of that koolance block, love the way you put the build together.

keep it coming, top notch work!

[Kuntz]

Alright, it's almost done! 4 more pics for ya, all that is really left is to wire up the lights....all 8 of them

I am going to start off with the 4 UV lights, and add the Red one's if I feel it is necessary or adds to the cool factor. Something tells me it wont, but it's worth the shot.

I'm upset Corsair doesn't black-sleeve their 24-pin all the way to the connector, so that may be something I deal with down the road. For now, the reservoir is going to block sight to it, so it's no big deal.

I think I'm done for the day though. That took 8 hours and it doesn't seem like I did anything haha.

[millertime359]

I would get some of this for that 24 pin cable. Looks great.

[ShoNuff]

Very practical. Gotta say I like the KY Jelly and Cardboard. Keep it comin'.

[shazza]

Looks good. The one thing I would try is perhaps rotating your CPU block so you can avoid your tubing crossing over itself. I doubt there will be an impact on temps (But, of course, I could be wrong).

I like all the red!

[defect9]

I like the crossed tubing look. next you should try braiding it.

...what, it's a valid idea

[Stvwndr219]

great build so far - may I ask what that covering up the 5.25" bays are?

[millertime359]

great build so far - may I ask what that covering up the 5.25" bays are?

cardboard

[Kuntz]

Actually it's 77 cent Black Construction Paper from Zellers. You get a giant sheet of it, it's pretty thick, you can see it in the Glue Stick pictures.

[Kuntz]

Well my Radiator connection from the Res is leaking, quite a lot. I purposely made sure these connections and my pump connections would be super secure because I have no way of accessing them once the computer is assembled. I should have used Barbs for my Radiator, lesson learned, big time. Barbs are much more secure than Compression Fittings since CF's twist with the tubing, and that's not a good thing!

I will try to fix this in place, and save myself 10 hours of rebuilding time. If not, I will have to cut out the faulty tube and connection and fix it that way.

=[

[millertime359]

Actually it's 77 cent Black Construction Paper from Zellers. You get a giant sheet of it, it's pretty thick, you can see it in the Glue Stick pictures.

I was close enough That sucks about the leak

[Kuntz]

Alright, it is the top of my Rad that is leaking, where the G1/4 from the C-Fitting goes into the Rad. The weird thing is, I leak tested it for 30 minutes while watching it, no leaks. I even went crazy on it and moved it around. wiggled it, compressed all the tubing hard with my fingers, and basically tried very hard to make anything leak. Nothing leaked. I turn off my pump, wait about 5 seconds, and turn it back on, the G1/4 Rad fitting instantly starts leaking big time. I didn't move it, touch it, wiggle it, nothing. What caused this? Why was it fine for 30 mintues even with me abusing it a lot, and then I restart the pump and it starts leaking quite a bit?

In either case, it will have to be disassembled and re-fitted with some barbs and steel hose clamps.

Another question: There is a stream of tiny air bubbles coming from my Chipset block, through the tubing tornado-style, into the Res and leaving a frothy kool-aid style fizz on top. Where is the air coming from? How do I help get rid of air bubbles from my loop?

[millertime359]

You just have to let the loop run to bleed all the air out. Tip the case all which way to make certain all the air has gotten out of the rads. It took me about 5 hours to get mine fully bled.

I have no clue why that rad started leaking

[kinghong1970]

dude, more foreplay, don't rush it, give it time, easy does it... won't need no K-Y...



awesome build!

[Kuntz]

Sigh

[millertime359]

O yea, you were using that swifty rad, should of gotten some of these adapters. It works a little better when tighten the fittings.

It seems you require a Big Mac for dinner

Might also want to get a drain hooked up in there, might be easier for any future drainings

I love the photo of the stairs. I was thinking your were going to throw the coolant down the stairs and run

[Gamekiller]

Lmao! Nice build log!

[Riggs]

What did you eat in the second last pic omg!

Hopefully it all turns out good in the end!

[Kuntz]

Well it is official, my radiator connection is broken. I have tried 2 different fittings and neither was able to create a seal. =\

It is impossible to really tell where the leak is taking place, but I will try to pick up some plumbing white goop tape to seal those threads up permanently, and use one helluva large wrench to really tighten that barb in there. If that doesn't work, RMA time!

Looks like another $22 in tubing and $20 in coolant needs to be spent, and another 1-2 week wait... sigh

[PaRn ssR]

very best project.

[3Z3VH]

Kuntz: you could always use the "toss flour on it to find the wet spot" method of finding the leak

[Kuntz]

Well despite a leaking radiator, and the loop only being filled 1/3 with coolant, and none of my fans being hooked up, I booted it up today to make sure all my components still worked. I ran Memtest86+ once again, but just the first 3 tests (takes about 2 minutes), to make sure that was still functioning at least on a basic level. There was so much air in my loop, and my Res was pretty much just pink fizz, lots and lots of pink fizz. You know how Water Slides only have a bit of water at the bottom? That is what all of my tubing looked like haha. With all of this wrong, the CPU was still at room temp or 1 degree higher, and the NB was about 6c higher. So at least it still works!

I have decided to get a friend, who is a plumber, to thread-tape the barbs and then we will use plumbers soldier to seal the barbs to the Radiator. I will do one more full inspection of the Radiator to make sure it is really the threads that are leaking. It really seems that way, and I do not see any other crack or flaw that the fluid could come from. Plus, the leaky barbs seal and seal area is completely soaked with coolant, and the other barb that doesn't leak, it's completely dry. The leaky G1/4 therads look ... odd ... they just don't look right, it's a gut feeling.

[Movieman]

very nice work!