Ok, I'm Chilled. I'm Chilled. Relax....56K Warning!

[NotSoCoolJ]

The amount of water evaporated is going to be effected by many different things like: water temp v. ambient temp, relative humidity and so on. If you put your pump as low as possible in the res it will offer more headway against evaporation. Hooking up to the plumbing for a sink, shower, toilet, washer, etc is not difficult to do. One small hole through a wall can be all that's really needed to run a line of 1/4" ID ice maker tubing to a float valve. Odds are you have incoming water in the next room....there's the source. Holes through drywall are easily fixed.

There are ways to setup a 2-liter bottle, gallon jug, 5gal bucket for short-term auto-refill.....

See text in bold!!!!

NEVER DO THAT... EVER!!!!!1111 Crap in the water will eat your water block in no time! Probably trash the ac evap in short order.

Never use anything in a water loop but pure Reverse Osmosis treated water. If it is a chiller, buy a gallon of cheap vodka and your set to go.

Is buying water and separate denatured alcohol cheaper? Not usually, after you have driven to get the water and then you drive to the home improvement store to buy denatured alcohol it's usually a wash. You can get a gallon of skunk vodka at the nearest Liquor store for 10$ around here. Pure water and ethanol.

NO TAP WATER!!!

[Naja002]

See text in bold!!!!

NEVER DO THAT... EVER!!!!!1111 Crap in the water will eat your water block in no time! Probably trash the ac evap in short order.

Never use anything in a water loop but pure Reverse Osmosis treated water. If it is a chiller, buy a gallon of cheap vodka and your set to go.

Is buying water and separate denatured alcohol cheaper? Not usually, after you have driven to get the water and then you drive to the home improvement store to buy denatured alcohol it's usually a wash. You can get a gallon of skunk vodka at the nearest Liquor store for 10$ around here. Pure water and ethanol.

NO TAP WATER!!!

Dude, it's time to put up or shut up. Here's your last assertions:

Please tell me that is not TAP WATER... If it is..Enjoy cleaning your crusty water block every 2 weeks.

My response:

My question would be: How much do you actually know about water? Are you speaking from experience? Or just what you've read on forums?

I've been using this tap water for almost 1 yr now. The biggest issue isn't from the water...it's from debris during filling. It's much easier to get debris inside a system this size then in an average WCing loop. Now with the bongs--it may be even more of an issue...that's the purpose of the pump prefilter--hopefully it will help. Additionally, I have an old Koolance case that I run. It's been on this tap water for quite some time now....no crusty block issues with it.

This whole car rad setup has been on tap water since day 1 (6-3-08). I've had to clean the blocks twice. The "gunk" inside is more from debris generally then the water itself.

Of course, no response from you. I don't care what you've read....I have experience that says you do not know what you are talking about. Only "Reverse Osmosis" "treated" water? So, distilled won't do, huh? Do you even know the difference? So, just PROVE your claims....or just shut up and go away.


EDIT: I just sent you a "Put up or Shut up" PM to this post, so let's not claim "unaware". Time to put up.....

[NotSoCoolJ]

Easy killer. I had no Idea you had a problem with the no tap water recommendation. If you can't be bothered to do a little research before you get all antsy in the pantsy, perhaps you could explain to everyone how their water is exactly like yours no matter where they live. Manny places have horrible hard water. I can tell you from past experience, with my local water, your blocks would be ruined in a week easy. My water is chlorinated. Generally, if you live in developed country, yours will be to.

Now I propose an experiment. Go get your self some samples of various metals and apply some chlorine bleach to them. See what happens. Some metals will withstand this to a certain extent. Aluminum fares quite well. It may be several hours before you notice any oxidation. It will absolutely pit and destroy copper within a matter of days. Ferrous metals will corrode instantly! Do you really want that in your cooling loop? Have you ever rust blued steel with bleach? I do it all the time for tools and firearms. Certain firearms like over/under and side by side shot guns are soldered together and cannot be hot nitre blued or they will fall apart.

Yes, I do absolutely know the difference between distilled water and R/O treated water. Distilled (self explanatory) water still contains trace amounts of salts and chemicals and various other dissolved solids. R/O treated water is forced through several layers of filters and will be as close to pure water as you can get.

What your saying is analogous to me telling every one that it is OK to drive around without a seat belt because I do and I have never been hurt. While it works for you, it wont be the same for anyone else.

Hell, my equipment is expensive! I don't know about you, but taking a few precautionary measures to insure the life of my equipment is not an unreasonable thing. Nor should I have to come in here and defend a prudent statement just because YOU use tap water. In my opinion and many others including GM, Ford, Ferrari, NASA, and generally anyone who knows what a TDS meter is, using tap water in a cooling loop is unacceptable! Period!

To recommend someone put tap water in a cooling loop that they want to keep functioning in top shape is callus and arrogant. Is using tap water in your cooling loop OK? For you it may be. Don't be so quick to presume that all tap water everywhere is fine because it is not.

So I will say this again for the cheap seats. Using tap water in a cooling loop is asking for trouble! In the end you can put nasty old puddle water in your loop if you desire but certainly don't recommend that anyone else do so.

Edit:
Just so no one has to take my word for it.
http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4687100...ect-metal.html
http://www.directron.com/waterinfo.html#coolant
http://www.xoxide.com/water-cooling.html#Liquid
http://www.lytron.com/tools-technica...er-fluids.aspx
Seems like pretty much every one thinks using tap water in a cooling loop is a bad idea. Except you.
I will consider the matter settled.
Once again, I don't give a flying monkey fart what you put in your cooling loop. Don't go around recommending others do the same because it is not safe or a good idea. Now find someone else to get in a tiff with. Next time make sure you know WTF you are talking about.

[Naja002]

Easy killer. I had no Idea you had a problem with the no tap water recommendation. If you can't be bothered to do a little research before you get all antsy in the pantsy, perhaps you could explain to everyone how their water is exactly like yours no matter where they live. Manny places have horrible hard water. I can tell you from past experience, with my local water, your blocks would be ruined in a week easy. My water is chlorinated. Generally, if you live in developed country, yours will be to.

Now I propose an experiment. Go get your self some samples of various metals and apply some chlorine bleach to them. See what happens. Some metals will withstand this to a certain extent. Aluminum fares quite well. It may be several hours before you notice any oxidation. It will absolutely pit and destroy copper within a matter of days. Ferrous metals will corrode instantly! Do you really want that in your cooling loop? Have you ever rust blued steel with bleach? I do it all the time for tools and firearms. Certain firearms like over/under and side by side shot guns are soldered together and cannot be hot nitre blued or they will fall apart.

Yes, I do absolutely know the difference between distilled water and R/O treated water. Distilled (self explanatory) water still contains trace amounts of salts and chemicals and various other dissolved solids. R/O treated water is forced through several layers of filters and will be as close to pure water as you can get.

What your saying is analogous to me telling every one that it is OK to drive around without a seat belt because I do and I have never been hurt. While it works for you, it wont be the same for anyone else.

Hell, my equipment is expensive! I don't know about you, but taking a few precautionary measures to insure the life of my equipment is not an unreasonable thing. Nor should I have to come in here and defend a prudent statement just because YOU use tap water. In my opinion and many others including GM, Ford, Ferrari, NASA, and generally anyone who knows what a TDS meter is, using tap water in a cooling loop is unacceptable! Period!

To recommend someone put tap water in a cooling loop that they want to keep functioning in top shape is callus and arrogant. Is using tap water in your cooling loop OK? For you it may be. Don't be so quick to presume that all tap water everywhere is fine because it is not.

So I will say this again for the cheap seats. Using tap water in a cooling loop is asking for trouble! In the end you can put nasty old puddle water in your loop if you desire but certainly don't recommend that anyone else do so.

Edit:
Just so no one has to take my word for it.
http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4687100...ect-metal.html
http://www.directron.com/waterinfo.html#coolant
http://www.xoxide.com/water-cooling.html#Liquid
http://www.lytron.com/tools-technica...er-fluids.aspx
Seems like pretty much every one thinks using tap water in a cooling loop is a bad idea. Except you.
I will consider the matter settled.
Once again, I don't give a flying monkey fart what you put in your cooling loop. Don't go around recommending others do the same because it is not safe or a good idea. Now find someone else to get in a tiff with. Next time make sure you know WTF you are talking about.

What a riot! I'll finish reading your post after I respond to it!

1) I'm not the one with any explaining to do to anybody.

2) I'm not the one that's going to be doing any experiments. My results are right here. So, put up or shut up. The burden is on YOU!


After reading your post:

I really don't care about your opinions or analogies. Maybe you should read your links a bit more closely and pay attention. But my only one real point is: I don't recommend that people use tap water in their blocks---I simply state that I use tap water in my blocks. Even on that 1 simple point you can't get it right.

[NotSoCoolJ]

There is nothing to prove. It is a fact. Grass grows, birds fly, and tap water corrodes metals. You even said yourself that you clean crap out of your setup periodically. What do you think that crap is? Calcium, lime, chlorine salts, zinc, and perhaps even actual salt! If your arrogance ever subsides and you decide to use a proper cooling solution perhaps you wont have to clean that crud out of your system all the time.

Just so we are clear. Your recommendation is that it is safe for everyone to use water out of their tap for their cooling loops?

[Naja002]

There is nothing to prove. It is a fact. Grass grows, birds fly, and tap water corrodes metals. You even said yourself that you clean crap out of your setup periodically. What do you think that crap is? Calcium, lime, chlorine salts, zinc, and perhaps even actual salt! If your arrogance ever subsides and you decide to use a proper cooling solution perhaps you wont have to clean that crud out of your system all the time.

Re-read my statements and pay attention---I don't clean my blocks out "every 2 weeks" or "all the time." Yeah, Quote me. Then go over to the XS LC section and pay attention to the folks that follow the rules and still get garbage in their loops, then explain it. And explain why what you say isn't showing up by way of temp increases, leaking blocks from all that corrosion, you know--etc, etc, etc. Again, You have the explaining to do. Instead you just make noise, because you cannot back up your claims, exagerate, etc, etc, etc. Put up, dude. Put up or just shut up. It's really that simple.

Just so we are clear. Your recommendation is that it is safe for everyone to use water out of their tap for their cooling loops?

Yeah, You'll have to quote me on that.....

[NotSoCoolJ]

You can't be serious. Have you never seen the inside of hot water heater? I don't have anything to prove. The statements I have made are accepted as fact by the scientific community at large and have been proven time and time again to be correct. Troll me if you must, but you are the one with the radical idea that tap water is acceptable.
You also can't presume to know the water quality of everyone, even in the state in which you live, much less the entire planet. You seem to be not understanding the consequences for others if they attempt to use tap water and don't go to your house to get it. Your personal experience is limited to the water that comes from your tap alone! If you can't accept the fact that your being callus and irresponsible by telling everyone that tap water is OK for their cooling loops even though you have no idea what is in the water that flows from their tap, then this discussion is finished. You may continue to ramble on and try to play childish games with me but I will not respond. I don't argue with children.

Like I said before, more than once, use whatever swill you wish, but certainly don't recommend that it is safe for others to do so. In the end it is your investment and your hard work.

But my only one real point is: I don't recommend that people use tap water in their blocks---I simply state that I use tap water in my blocks. Even on that 1 simple point you can't get it right.

Except in the post I originally quoted where you did actually suggest that antiacid use tap water for auto leveling without taking into consideration that not everyone's water is the same as yours.

I'll quote it again considering that is what the issue is all about.

The amount of water evaporated is going to be effected by many different things like: water temp v. ambient temp, relative humidity and so on. If you put your pump as low as possible in the res it will offer more headway against evaporation. Hooking up to the plumbing for a sink, shower, toilet, washer, etc is not difficult to do. One small hole through a wall can be all that's really needed to run a line of 1/4" ID ice maker tubing to a float valve. Odds are you have incoming water in the next room....there's the source. Holes through drywall are easily fixed.

There are ways to setup a 2-liter bottle, gallon jug, 5gal bucket for short-term auto-refill.....

[Naja002]

You can't be serious. Have you never seen the inside of hot water heater?

Sheesh. How short sighted can you be? A hot water heater has a constant in flux of new water containing more quantity of the same elements and sediments. My loop has a finite quantity of water---yeah, and elements and sediments. So, you are comparing apple to oranges. Another act of desperation and short-sightedness.

I don't have anything to prove.

Well, of course you don't. You have every right to make all the absolute staements that you want without having to back any of them up. Not even the simple ones like quoting me with my own words.

The statements I have made are accepted as fact by the scientific community at large and have been proven time and time again to be correct.

Now you speak for the scientic community at large? Ummm, ok, then you and the scientific community at large will need to talk to my blocks and other stuff....not me. Cuz they ain't listenin', cuz.

Troll me if you must, but you are the one with the radical idea that tap water is acceptable.

My tap water is acceptable to me at this time in this situation. You've not shown any reason why it should not be.

You also can't presume to know the water quality of everyone, even in the state in which you live, much less the entire planet.

Nice of you to tell me once again what I presume, think recommend, etc, etc, etc. Here's an idea: Quote me. Yeah, you lazy schmuck: quote me. How lazy can you be? Just quote me.

You seem to be not understanding the consequences for others if they attempt to use tap water and don't go to your house to get it.

Oh, I understand the consequences. My tap water does a great job of stuffing your head up your behind: Gh 18, Kh 14, pH 8.2, TDS 290. Explain it. Oh, that's right- You CAN'T.

Your personal experience is limited to the water that comes from your tap alone!

Absolutely. So, what's your point? That you like to assume a lot? And you are not very good at it.

If you can't accept the fact that your being callus and irresponsible by telling everyone that tap water is OK for their cooling loops even though you have no idea what is in the water that flows from their tap, then this discussion is finished.

You keep "finish"ing this discussion, but never shut up.....

Honestly though, you are the one who is being callous and irresponsible. You are the one running around making absolute staements that you cannot support. You are the one running around telling me what I think, what I presume, what I recommend--yet you cannot even quote me.

You may continue to ramble on and try to play childish games with me but I will not respond. I don't argue with children.

Cool. I think we've accomplished making you look childish, so we can quit now, right? You haven't offer any proof on anything, so you're going to shut up now? Right?

Like I said before, more than once, use whatever swill you wish, but certainly don't recommend that it is safe for others to do so. In the end it is your investment and your hard work.

Well, make up your mind: Do you want to TELL me what I recommend? Or do you want to ASK me what I recommend?

Just so we are clear. Your recommendation is that it is safe for everyone to use water out of their tap for their cooling loops?

Obviously, you don't know what you are talking about.....when you figure it out---quote me.

[Naja002]

Except in the post I originally quoted where you did actually suggest that antiacid use tap water for auto leveling without taking into consideration that not everyone's water is the same as yours.

I was helping him locate a water source for a full-time auto refill. What his tap water consists of is not my concern--it's the user's concern. Just as whether or not there is actually a water source in the next room or not--is not my concern--it's their's. Did you miss the part that you quoted about the short-term refill options?

I'm not going to stop anyone from using their tap water. But being "ok" with it and actually recommending it are 2 different things. For 99% of the loops out there--distilled is the most practical choice. So what? Still doesn't show temp increases, or leaking from corrosion on my loops with tap water. Put up or shut up.

I'll quote it again considering that is what the issue is all about.

No actually the issue is all about you making one absolute statement after another and then squirming around not offering any proof. Just noise. That's all you've got. Noise.

[NotSoCoolJ]

What is your problem man? You suggested to someone else that it was OK for them to use tap water. I simply stated that this person shouldn't heed your recommendation. You started a bunch of and now you totally ignore that fact that you told forum user antiacid that he should use tap water. You have stick up your colon today or something. That much is obvious.

[Naja002]

What is your problem man? You suggested to someone else that it was OK for them to use tap water. I simply stated that this person shouldn't heed your recommendation. You started a bunch of and now you totally ignore that fact that you told forum user antiacid that he should use tap water. You have stick up your colon today or something. That much is obvious.

Ummmm, No. If life were that simple--there would be no conflict. I don't care how "right" you think you are--go back and read your first post in this thread and the other. You make statements you cannot support and you do it in a manner that goes well beyond "assertive". You need to step way back and take a look at yourself---only then may you begin to see where the conflicts arises.


Truth? Tap water is not the best choice. But that does not mean that it's not very usable either. I have an RODI setup and a Dual DI setup. I can buy distilled just like everybody else. Would I be better off for it? Sure. But by how much? You have no idea how many times I drained that car rad loop--no, not to "clean" it, but to work on something. If I had to buy distilled every time or "conserve" what was there? No. Not worth the trouble or expense.

I understand plenty about water. I've had aquariums for many years and you may want to check out the acrochordus.com in my sig. I'm not clueless about water, my water, or the vast range of water--even within a fairly small area. I decided to "test" that car rad setup with tap water, because 1) at the moment I did not feel like going and getting however many jugs of water I would need (remember the setup contained a 55 gal barrel) and 2) I was not sure how often I would need to drain it to "fix" something. So, I started with tap, stuck with it--and glad that I have. But if I were to setup an everyday loop like most people's--I would go pick up a gal or 2 of distilled. Why? Why not? It's too easy. But with this chiller, I used tap water because it was convenient and I've added $77 worth of anti-freeze--so, no, I won't be swapping it out for "purer" water any time soon. But my experience doesn't tell me that I need to....


For the record: I don't "recommend" for people to use their tap water. But I don't necessarily recommend against it either. It's up to them as far as I'm concerned. For the average loop: Not using distilled is just silly. It's just too easy. My situation is different though....and it's my choice--no one else's. Same for the next person.

As far as tap water goes--there is some really good tap water out there. But for the average loop: distilled is still a better bet.

[NotSoCoolJ]

Naja, honestly my intention wasn't to incite commotion. I wish my tap water was like yours. I would love to be able to fill loop from the tap. I never presumed that your water quality was anything other than how you describe it. You must understand my intention was to dissuade antiacid from putting tap water in his cooling loop. You can't imagine the flashbacks I had of my very first water cooling experiments where I did use my tap water and payed a hefty monetary price for doing so. I hope you also realize this person is talking about a bong setup. What happens when the shower head gets clogged from calcium buildup or just some crap that flowed in through the tap. I didn't totally ignore the fact that my tap water probably wasn't the best thing. I thought that I would see some change in temp over time or something, but really it was much more dramatic than that. It worked perfect for 5 days. No drop in temp nothing. I left to take my wife to dinner and came home to $1000 worth of dead PC components. The shower head had clogged and the pump I was using blew the hose off the water block. I learned many things that day.
1. Always use hose clamps.
2. Use a pump suitable for water cooling a PC not a city bus
3. Don't trust the tap water.

[Naja002]

It's was definitely a bad experience, no doubt, But I have a hard time finding the tap water itself at fault. I kept reptiles for ~30 yrs. I had misting systems and all kinds of stuff. The water at that location was so hard that it would clog the mistheads in 30 days. Yeah, that's fast. But those were fine mist heads with tiny openings...and it still took 30 days....give or take a couple. My point is simply that a bong setup is naturally inclined to collect all the garbage from the universe and put it into the loop. They are notorious for that! That's why I added the dual prefilter to my pump...which I have kept since switching over to this chiller. As I said before: I've had to clean these blocks twice--in just over 1 yr. And from actually being here, doing it--it's junk in the loop....not the elements that causes the issue. I am really waiting to see how long it is before they need to be cleaned out again.....with the prefilter--I'm hoping it will be a long time, cuz it's a real PITA!

But, honestly, I wasn't there, so I cannot say for certain, but I willing to bet is was debris and not the water itself.

[Utnorris]

Wow!!!, Just finished reading all of this. First, congrats on the chiller Naja002. I did one recently and other than the noise (it was in the same room as the computer) I loved it. I wish I had another room I could put mine in so I could run it 24/7.

Now the second thing, NotSoCoolJ, why are you in here thread crapping? State your objection to using tap water and move on. Do you think you are going to change his mind? He has been using tap water for awhile and has had good results, hooray! Leave it alone. The world isn't going to end and if someone takes this thread as being ok to run tap water in their loop then that's ok. Would I use tap water? Nope, but I have hard water in my area and running to Wally World for 4 gallons of distilled water is easy for me. When I lived in Memphis, TN the tap water there was better than most bottled water, somthing like top 10 for clean water in the U.S., I might have considered using it.

Anyway, my point is, state your objection in a non-threatening way and then move on. If you feel that strongly about it, start your own thread in the LC section, I am pretty sure you have enough posts to start your own thread.

Again, Naja002 great work on the chiller.

[Naja002]

running to Wally World for 4 gallons of distilled water is easy for me.

Thanx, UT, And the quote above is how I feel too--for "normal" setups...distilled is just too easy to come by and offers too many benefits to go any other way.

You may be interested in my current project:

AC to plateHX Chiller Conversion...56K Warning!

[Utnorris]

I have been watching it, looking good.

By the way, if I was filling a 55 gallon drum, I would use lake water if it was convient. The Wally World folks would look at me like I was insane or paranoid if I went there for 55 gallons of distilled water.

Also, curious at why you used $77 worth of anti-freeze, did you not mix it to a 20/80 mix with water?

[Naja002]

Same here....anything beyond the "norm" throws these folks outta whack and the "norm" is quite primitive.

It's actually come out to ~32% anti-freeze. I haven't checked it in quite a while. I really do need to check for corrosion and/or evaporation. It should be fine on both counts, but ya never know.....


Bought 7 gals (=$77 after tax), had 3/4 gal already, total fluid= ~24 gals.

[Utnorris]

Wow! 24 gallon tank. I am at work and can't see the pics right now, have to wait till I get home tonight. My res was about 2.5 gallons and it cycled about every 15 minutes with my I7. Throw in the whole loop, GPU, NB, etc and it cycled every 7 minutes. It was just too loud for where I had it. It is still assembled and in the room, take 5 minutes to set it back up and with the heat we have here in Dallas I may do it.

[Naja002]

With a 900-1Kw load this one cycles about every 30 minutes, I guess. Probably a little less time-wise. It's great.....just does it's thing. Currently, no muss, no fuss....

[Naja002]

Just wanted to update this:

As many of you know, I try to conserve energy by pumping the heat from my rigs outside during the warmer months, and pumping it inside during the colder months. In the past I did this with indoor/outdoor rads. Early this last summer I did the ghetto chiller that this thread has been about (above). Well, during this last summer I converted a 5K BTU AC to a plateHX chiller. Winter is here, so now I'm wanting to pump the heat inside again, but I really don't want to give up the chilled water. So, I've connected the plateHX chiller to my manifold for indoor/outdoor chillers! When it's too warm in here I turn off the indoor chiller and the outdoor chiller automatically takes over. When it's cool in here I just reach over and push the On button for the indoor chiller....and it starts pumping the heat inside here. At first it was like: Holy Cow that's Loud! But now I barely even notice it. It does not bother me while I'm sleeping, but I sleep like a rock anyway, so......

First a quick rehash of the plateHX chiller:

I took a standard 5K BTU AC:






Yanked the Evap and installed a plateHX:







And put it back together again:

[Naja002]

Then I ordered another Ranco controller like above and got it wired up and ready to go:







Covered the probe with 2 layers of super-duper heat shrink and got it installed into a pvc tee and ready to be connected up:










Added some plumbing to my manifold, since I was short 1 connection:





Set the chiller up where I wanted it and ran the tubing:






Added some filter material:




At a 75F ambient in here the unit uses ~ 500w after the compressor warms up. It runs at the current heat load: 41mins on, 19mins off. So, it's on ~16hrs/day which equals ~$20.74/month at my current electric cost. That's a loss during the warmer months, but not during the colder months....helps keep me from paying to run the main heater, and supplements it when I do.

And it's a done deal! Works great! With the single push of a button I can direct the heat where I want it to go. Since it's fall right now the days are often warm enough that I don't want to be adding any more heat inside. But the nights are definitely getting cool. I've not turned on my main heating unit for the year yet.

And best of all, I get to maintain constant stable temps all yr round. No messing with overclocks, turning valves, going outside to turn a pump on or off. Nothing. Just push a frickin' Button! Oh, Happy Days!

[Naja002]

Just a few pix of a simple upgrade...

I got tired of the old zip-tied prefilter for the pump, so I decided to put together something a little better. Seems to have actually increased flow a little bit.

The Parts (4" pvc):



I really like the double grating idea. The inside grating keeps the filter material away from the 3/4" pump intake and allows the pump to draw water through the entire diameter of the filter:



Cut to fit the micro-fine filter material....3 layers:



Shot of the micro-fine....this end goes inside toward the pump intake:



Other end with the blue filter material installed:



The filter assembled:



And installed, ( Apologies for the light reflection and the murkiness):



Cost without filter material: ~$16


Simple, durable, fast and easy dis/assembly.....

[=[PULSAR]=]

Naja where did you pick up those coralife thermometers? I think I may need a few for my new build.

[Naja002]

Not sure actually. I've bought a lot of aquarium stuff over the years, so probably from:

DrsFosterSmith.com

But do a google search. Seems they've gone up in price...used to be ~$5.

[Naja002]

Ok, I decided to modify my ghetto chiller, so let's see.... This "conversion" has been wrought with issues. I'm not going to bother to detail each and every one though. Had problems with the charging, evac, water tight seals...the list goes on. Seems as though I've struggled through them successfully though. The chiller has not been taken out to it's home yet, but is ready for that....probably tomorrow.

So, on with the show:

Rolled my evap = At least 2 dozen feet of 1/4" copper...2 separate paths/coils....3/8" in and out:





Pulled the ghetto chiler, brought it inside, got out the piercing valve and got setup for the recovery:





That went well enough, so it was time to put the evap together and get it mounted. My first attempt looked like this, but I'll tell ya--trying to get 3/8" copper through those 1/2" holes...without creasing it--is a task I could not seem to accomplish :





So, a 1 hr round trip to Lowes and it came out looking more like this:





Of course, I knew I should have left a few more inches of copper on the evap ends, but for some reason I thought I left enough ( ) So, I ended up improvising a solution to get the evap/res mounted to the chiller:





I used these water tight sealing doodads for the evap lines in and out. Of course they gave me seapage/leakage issues, but I've managed to get them leak-free:





While attaching the res/evap I added the low side port as seen in the vacuum pump pic above. And removed the manufacturer crimped off access port and attached a shrader valve there for the high side access port:






So, now it's ready for the evac.....