LIAN LI PC-A05NB watercooled parts & thoughts

[skane]

hmm, when i was trying it out, i had to place the rad more in front or it wouldn't fit because it would the expansion card slots.
maybe its because he is using an mcr320 and i have an rs360?

[scamps]

Did change some details in the meantime, but most things are actual. Kick out the HDD-cage, flip over the PSU and you will have a platform for pump or better HDD-solution. Triple rad in the top - and if you do not mind the noise of the HDD (or even have a SSD) - put the HDD in the 3,5"-slot. Than you are able to put another dual rad in the bottom and have the DVD.
I prefered to add an additional external PA120.3 ...



A little bit more handsome was this version last month with a DFI µATX X58:

[alejo]

Those are very nice setups, scamps. Is that Watercool DDC tank you have in first picture noisy? I wanted to use one, but it's costly to import here.

[scamps]

Those are very nice setups, scamps. Is that Watercool DDC tank you have in first picture noisy? I wanted to use one, but it's costly to import here.

It´s not noisy at all, but very quiet (quieter than EK Multires on EK V2). But I have to mention, that my Laing is modded to Laing+, 24/7 only working @2700rpm. Up to 3800 rpm (Laing standard) everything in good order, but above the Watercool DDC is not able to handle the flow ...

So with standard Laing / Swiftech no problem, otherwise I would prefer the XSPC DDC-Res http://www.xspc.biz/ddcres.php

[kinghong1970]

heya Scamps, what block do you have on your NB of the DFI board?

[scamps]

heya Scamps, what block do you have on your NB of the DFI board?

They are from a small german manufacturer ANFI-TEC:
http://shop.anfi-tec.de/product_info...M-017-DFI.html
http://shop.anfi-tec.de/product_info...CD-grande.html

[iandh]

I've been thinking of doing water in my a05b... I've actually done water in one before and posted the pics, but I can't seem to find them.

This time around I plan on doing dual XSPC RX120 internal, one at the back intake and one at the front exhaust with the HDD rack removed.

[kinghong1970]

They are from a small german manufacturer ANFI-TEC:
http://shop.anfi-tec.de/product_info...M-017-DFI.html
http://shop.anfi-tec.de/product_info...CD-grande.html

thanks!

sweet lookin blocks fosure!

[liguhy]

So here's my current mod decisions:

• Top panel: 3-fan cutout holes with mesh filters ready for triple radiator (no radiator installed); in order from back to front: back handle & DD Delrin fillport (centered between drilled handle mounts) => 3 mesh fan filters, flush mounted screws.
  Don't think a Raptor X window mod would be worth it, as when I get an SSD for the OS, hard drives will only be storage and Raptor X hdds are discontinued.
• Bottom panel: black Koolance 3-fan shroud mounted inverted with 3 120mm 1450RPM Gentle Typhoon Fans, same black mesh fan grills, and rubber washers between shroud/fans and fans/radiator
• Front panel: top panel IO shield moved to side

The radiator choice is really the only thing in limbo (and therefore the converter shrouds and higher RPM Gentle Typhoons as well). Don't know the height of the 120 to 140mm converter shrouds, but I estimated 25mm. The Koolance 3-fan shroud is only 32mm (but pictured in centimeters, sorry) so I'd have 7mm extra room for the fan shrouds or just space between fan/radiator, assuming I use 25mm fans. Not sure what extra performance I could get out of a 140mm, and it would require the converter shrouds, higher noise fans, and possible mobo clearance issues. Would any of these be problems, and if so worth the extra performance?

I'll eventually sandwich my OS and storage HDD with a Koolance HD-60 cooler where my OS is pictured or, if it can fit, in the top 5.25 bay with a Nexus DiskTwin mounted to only the top drive. When I go SSD I'll just mount it to the bottom of the 3.25 bay, remove the HDD cage, and have 2 storage drives up top (again, if they fit). WIth the HDD cage gone, that place is prime for a single 120mm or 140mm radiator.

[MomijiTMO]

Errr my lord how did you manage to get everything into those little cases is beyond me lol.

[liguhy]

Did change some details in the meantime, but most things are actual. Kick out the HDD-cage, flip over the PSU and you will have a platform for pump or better HDD-solution. Triple rad in the top - and if you do not mind the noise of the HDD (or even have a SSD) - put the HDD in the 3,5"-slot. Than you are able to put another dual rad in the bottom and have the DVD.
I prefered to add an additional external PA120.3 ...

Nice setup and excellent point on the HDD/SDD/PSU stuff. Off-topic question for you though - how are you liking that mobo? It's on my short list of ATX boards I'd like. Gigabyte always seems to have the best PCI bracket options and I like the already installed WC. How would you compare it by itself and compared to the Classified or Rampage II

[Mankz_91]

I did a small log of my A05 build...

BIX in the roof, DDC on the floor and a bay res





Best case I've ever bought

[liguhy]

I did a small log of my A05 build...

BIX in the roof, DDC on the floor and a bay res

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...5/DSCF4287.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...5/DSCF4289.jpg

Best case I've ever bought

Nice build. Are those 25 or 38mm fans? Effectively, how many PCI slots does mounting a rad and those fans block? The thinnest rands are also the densest, and that doesn't pair well with the thinner 25mm fans. I was thinking a Black Ice GTS with either 25mm or 38mm fans, depending on clearance issues. If there's anyway way (without modding the top if possible ) of mounting a rad up top WITHOUT blocking anything, that'd be awesome, but I'm pretty sure there isn't - hence the Koolance shroud on the bottom with the casters.

Anywho, for the rest of ya - thoughts on my current mod decisions? Also thinking about getting a media card reader/floppy drive.

[Mankz_91]

Thats a Standard BIX II with 25mm fans, and I've got full acess to 5 PCI slots, so with a GT-Stealth you'd be looking at probably 1 slot obstructed, or perhaps none if your lucky.

[silverphoenix]

Thats a Standard BIX II with 25mm fans, and I've got full acess to 5 PCI slots, so with a GT-Stealth you'd be looking at probably 1 slot obstructed, or perhaps none if your lucky.

With GTS you will still only get access to 5 slots. You will almost have 6 but not full 6, I test fitted my GTS with both 25mm and 38mm fans.

[Diverge]

I just kinda finished up my new build (a couple minor things I need to do). But it's very similar to the OP's post, since it uses an equally small case (Lian Li PC-A06F).

Case: Lian Li PC-A06F
PSU: Corsair CMPSU-750TX
MB: DFI JR X58-T3H6
CPU: i7 920 D0
RAM: 6gigs OCZ OCZ3B2000C9LV6GK
Videocard: EVGA 280GTX
HD: 3x OCZ Vertex SSD 30GB in raid0, 1x old 60gb harddrive from my ps3 (for non-SSD storage)
HD_Rack: SUPERMICRO CSE-M14TB 2.5" mobile rack

Fans:
1x 140mm Intake fan (Stock Lian Li)
3x 120mm Intake Yate loon Mediums on the Rad
1x 140mm Exhaust Scythe KAZE MARU 1900rpm, 104cfm (replacing stock 120mm in case top)
Scythe ? Fan controller

Vital watercooling parts:
Feser 360 rad
Apogee GTZ
MCW30 on NB, modded for low profile
DTEK Fuzion GFX 2 GPU block w/ unisink
Primochill Typhoon III res
D5 pump

Here's some cell phone pics of it:
Front View:ISO View: Burry Inside View:

Here's some misc pics during assembly/brainstorming the best way to do things:


Pics are crappy.. oh well. I ended up not using the 90's on the CPU outlet and MCW30 inlet, and went with stubby barbs, and tubing; as was suggested.

The temp measurement on the far left is the air temp coming out of rad fans, and the one next to it is the water temp in the res. I plan to add 2 more temp sensors, and change up the order ss follows:
Rad Fan RPM________Front Intake Fan RPM____Top Exhaust Fan RPM______
Rad Fan Temp Out___Front Intake Air Temp In__Top Exhaust Air Temp Out__Water Temp

I wanted to throw some Pentosin G11 into the system, so that is why I have a UV LED mounting inside the res... but using Ethylene Glycol voids the Typhoon III warranty... and I'm not too sure if it would make it fall apart or something So I may just take out the UV LED, since the purple light can be annoying.

[liguhy]

I just kinda finished up my new build (a couple minor things I need to do). But it's very similar to the OP's post, since it uses an equally small case (Lian Li PC-A06F).

Case: Lian Li PC-A06F
PSU: Corsair CMPSU-750TX
MB: DFI JR X58-T3H6
CPU: i7 920 D0
RAM: 6gigs OCZ OCZ3B2000C9LV6GK
Videocard: EVGA 280GTX
HD: 3x OCZ Vertex SSD 30GB in raid0, 1x old 60gb harddrive from my ps3 (for non-SSD storage)
HD_Rack: SUPERMICRO CSE-M14TB 2.5" mobile rack

Fans:
1x 140mm Intake fan (Stock Lian Li)
3x 120mm Intake Yate loon Mediums on the Rad
1x 140mm Exhaust Scythe KAZE MARU 1900rpm, 104cfm (replacing stock 120mm in case top)
Scythe ? Fan controller

Vital watercooling parts:
Feser 360 rad
Apogee GTZ
MCW30 on NB, modded for low profile
DTEK Fuzion GFX 2 GPU block w/ unisink
Primochill Typhoon III res
D5 pump

Here's some cell phone pics of it:
Pics are crappy.. oh well. I ended up not using the 90's on the CPU outlet and MCW30 inlet, and went with stubby barbs, and tubing; as was suggested.

The temp measurement on the far left is the air temp coming out of rad fans, and the one next to it is the water temp in the res. I plan to add 2 more temp sensors, and change up the order ss follows:
Rad Fan RPM________Front Intake Fan RPM____Top Exhaust Fan RPM______
Rad Fan Temp Out___Front Intake Air Temp In__Top Exhaust Air Temp Out__Water Temp

I wanted to throw some Pentosin G11 into the system, so that is why I have a UV LED mounting inside the res... but using Ethylene Glycol voids the Typhoon III warranty... and I'm not too sure if it would make it fall apart or something So I may just take out the UV LED, since the purple light can be annoying.

Thought about that case and a similiar Silverstone. Didn't like how the PSU blocked everything above the CPU area (even though I'd water cool it).

I've pretty much decided to go straight distilled water with a silver coil so there is no chance for sludge. UV/LED stuff always seemed gaudy to me anyhow.

[Diverge]

Thought about that case and a similiar Silverstone. Didn't like how the PSU blocked everything above the CPU area (even though I'd water cool it).

I've pretty much decided to go straight distilled water with a silver coil so there is no chance for sludge. UV/LED stuff always seemed gaudy to me anyhow.

I don't mind the PSU location, since I;m not using windows on the sides of my case, and watercooling (so no worries for CPU heatsink clearance). Only reason I wanted color added to my distilled is cause of the primochill typhoon III res. It's clear, and just doesn't look right being clear with an all black case, with all black components in the other drive bays. I wish they made the plastic of the T3 with a gray tint or something like that.

My goal was to make a nice small pc, not too flashy (you only see the blue light look directly head on), and to have all the water cooling internal. I think I accomplished my goal, and I'm happy with it.

[phinix_mike]

I just kinda finished up my new build (a couple minor things I need to do). But it's very similar to the OP's post, since it uses an equally small case (Lian Li PC-A06F).

Case: Lian Li PC-A06F
PSU: Corsair CMPSU-750TX
MB: DFI JR X58-T3H6
CPU: i7 920 D0
RAM: 6gigs OCZ OCZ3B2000C9LV6GK
Videocard: EVGA 280GTX
HD: 3x OCZ Vertex SSD 30GB in raid0, 1x old 60gb harddrive from my ps3 (for non-SSD storage)
HD_Rack: SUPERMICRO CSE-M14TB 2.5" mobile rack

Fans:
1x 140mm Intake fan (Stock Lian Li)
3x 120mm Intake Yate loon Mediums on the Rad
1x 140mm Exhaust Scythe KAZE MARU 1900rpm, 104cfm (replacing stock 120mm in case top)
Scythe ? Fan controller

Vital watercooling parts:
Feser 360 rad
Apogee GTZ
MCW30 on NB, modded for low profile
DTEK Fuzion GFX 2 GPU block w/ unisink
Primochill Typhoon III res
D5 pump

...

I wanted to throw some Pentosin G11 into the system, so that is why I have a UV LED mounting inside the res... but using Ethylene Glycol voids the Typhoon III warranty... and I'm not too sure if it would make it fall apart or something So I may just take out the UV LED, since the purple light can be annoying.

That is one cool setup, I love it. Hows your temps? CPU and GPU idle/load?
Do you OC your i7?

[liguhy]

With GTS you will still only get access to 5 slots. You will almost have 6 but not full 6, I test fitted my GTS with both 25mm and 38mm fans.

What about a super slim PCI card like for USB, USB/Firewire, PCIE USB slot, or a breakout panel for internal headers/molex/etc? What if you placed the radiator as away form the motherboard as possible and found a low profile card and/or one that doesn't have capacitors toward the bottom?

Coincidentally, is there any benefit to PCI-E USB cards? Those don't come in slim models, however.

slim USB:
PCI-E USB/Firewire:
PCIE USB:

[silverphoenix]

If there are no high components on the board, then yeah you will have more space. But most any cards have at least a few caps that are usually the full PCI slot height.

[liguhy]

If there are no high components on the board, then yeah you will have more space. But most any cards have at least a few caps that are usually the full PCI slot height.

What about the USB or PCIE USB pictured above? Either the card has no capacitors (both USB) or they are small (PCIE USB/Fireire). I was wanting these anway, as I won't be going SLI anytime soon. Anyone know any good breakout panels that connect to internal headers?

[Diverge]

That is one cool setup, I love it. Hows your temps? CPU and GPU idle/load?
Do you OC your i7?

I don't have temps at full load for an extended period of time while really stressing. The PWM's get too hot for me to let it run unattended. I don't like when they get near 85deg, don't want to burn the house down. I gotta get a water block for it, the MCW30 on the northbridge doesn't really help much, since it seems that DFI's quality control on their PWM/NB sinks aren't the same from board to board (my PWM heatsink is only warm when it's temp is 85deg). Some people get decent temps, others get horrible.

I really want taht block that Scamps has in his pic of his DFI JR x58. But they are made/sold in germany :[

Playing Darkfall 24/7 (macroing), the CPU gets to like 64, 280gtx gets to 48 @ 4.2GHz 1.31Vcore (no HT). According to the max temps registered by Realtemp.

Soon as I resolve my PWM temp issue I'll get some real numbers. Maybe I'll pull it apart and remount the stock PWM block

[liguhy]

So here's what I'm gonna eventually build. I'll first start with the my modding tools, this case, floppy/media reader, nexus double twin hdd mount, mod the PSU cover, and move the top IO shield to the front panel side vents. That will give me a chance to get real-world measurements of how radiators/etc fit.

I'll then buy the water cooling components (250mm EK Resevoir, fill port, XSPC RX240 radiator, D5 Vario (probably PMP-400), CPU block, graphics block, tubing. Later I'll move the hdds to the top 5.25 bay, add the 140x1 radiator & shroud, and water cool the hdds with a Koolance HD-60. For clarification, I'm assuming the EK Multioption Rev2 Reservoir's bottom plug is on one side of the divider inside. That will then give me 2 inputs for returning liquid to the reservoir and 1 output to the D5. I'll get a top for the D5 and run 1 input from the reservoir and two outputs to each radiator. Anyone see problems? with this? Depending on the mother board, I could also get a NB/SB/Mosfet block as well.

If adding a Koolance shroud to the top, a Black Ice GTS 240 radiator, and 25mm-dept fans will give me enough clearance to use that PCI bracket for something, I'll go that route. I'll never go past twin SLI I think, so the PCIE slot on the mobo edge won't be needed for graphics and I think the PCIE USB card pictured above will fit without going past the motherboard edge. It's essentially a PCB with the "surface height" of the molex and USB ports. Pretty sure this would fit what I described previously in this paragraph.

[skane]

I worked a lot on mine yesterday, thought i would show what i came up with.


The scythe mugen 2 takes up a lot more space than i expected, so the tubing runs out of the case atm. also, when the pump is running, there is a leak at one of the barbs on the graphics card block:


im not sure why the leak is there, the tubing fits just as tightly on that barb as on the others, and while the tube is a bit deformed, its not really kinked.

i'll prolly get a cpu block in a few weeks so that i can get the tubing internal and reclaim a lot of interior space, but i would like to have it up and running in the current state, so all help for fixing the leak would be appreciated.

Also, i suppose the rad i got(xspc rs360) will be good enough to keep the 4870x2 and a core i7 cool? i dont expect extremely good temps, im happy when the cpu is about the same or a bit better than with the mugen 2.