The UNE!

[RoadconeTuning]

THE ULTIMATE N00B EXPERIENCE!

This is my first venture into watercooling... i've done the air cooling thing and what started all of this was me wanting to push my 780i board farther, and since i was going to have to reseat the stock mobo cooler i figured i'd dive into water cooling since its alwasy sounded cool to me.

I'm reusing my Q6600, 780i, 4GB of GeIL DDR2 800, SLi'd 9600GT's and OCZ 700w psu, basically just watercooling what i have in my current Original P180

the new stuff...

Black Cosmos S case w/ windowed side panel
ViperJohn 780i NB Waterblock
Bitspower 780i MOSFET Blocks #1 and #2
Swiftech Apogee GTZ CPU Waterblock
Swiftech MCR320 w/ 3 yateloon mediums
DDC-3.2
XSPC Top
Scythe Kaze fan controller
7/16" Masterkleer tubing, ordered 30ft because i KNOW im going to screw up and its CHEEEAAAAP

my stuff from petras should show up today according to UPS, my stuff from Sidewinder shipped today so im hoping to have everything by the end of the week and if im lucky i'll be posting from a watercooled beast on saturday/sunday... oh yeah, i have to order a RES

[armeniandave]

We all had to get that first build out of the way in order to learn from it!

Ask questions and look at other builds for inspiration.

[RoadconeTuning]

sorry for the HORRIBLE photo quality... on camera flash + 1600iso and me being tired gets this kinda stuff...

todays parts...

[RoadconeTuning]

[Blizzy]

Looking good

I think it looks nicer to attach the pump directly to the res, with some BP fittings =o

[DarthBeavis]

welcome to the club!

[shazza]

Have fun ... I think you're smart to first water cool your existing hardware. Much better than taking a chance on upgraded components if this is your first go with water.

[millertime359]

good start

[RoadconeTuning]

Have fun ... I think you're smart to first water cool your existing hardware. Much better than taking a chance on upgraded components if this is your first go with water.

idea was that i was too poor to do i7 and watercooling, haha... i really just wanted to see how far i could go with stuff i already knew... i knew i needed to fix my mobo cooling solution and i figured why not water cool it!

im stuck trying to figure out how i want to route from my mosfet...

should i go from my mosfet to my radiator and then my res or should i go strait to the res and run my pumps outlet to the radiator and then to my cpu water block? i ask because i keep seeing people talk about the shortest tube routing but i havnet seen anything to back that up... i would think more tubes = more cooling capacity and a more stabalized system since it would have to heat up that much more water...

post your suggestions for my routing! oh and that anti kink coil stuff sucks, it becomes brittle about 12hr after you wrap it on the tubes... wtf?

[millertime359]

Yea, loose the coils. They are really not needed with that 7/16 tubing. Plus i just don't like the way they look.

You also have to remember, the more tube, the more friction you have, the more of a loss to flow.

Everyone is also saying that the only way more coolant will help with temps is if you only run your comp in short bursts. If it stays on for any length of time, the water will all reach the same temp.

I would just run flip the lines on your mosfet and go mosfet ----res ---- pump ---- rad---- cpu ---- NB ---mosfet ----mosfet

[dualbrain]

THE ULTIMATE N00B EXPERIENCE!

Very cool title!

[RoadconeTuning]

im sure that the increase in friction wont drop flow rates enough to matter really, i keep seeing people talk about how .2gpm isnt going to change the temps even 1degree C..

i'll probably end up breaking the coils off of the tubes when i go to hook up my mosfet... i ordered 30 feet of that masterkleer hose so i've got plenty to screw up with :o)

[RoadconeTuning]

i figured id enjoy some UV lights while bleeding/testing



i didnt change led colors iphone changed whitebalance for no reason since its retarded...




i did run into a leak on my viperjohn 780i block...both fittings were dripping i tried to tighten them up with needlenose pliers with the hoses still on them but i think im gonna have to take thehoses off... gonna be a beotch to drain the system

[millertime359]

install a drain right after the pump Looks much better without coils

[RoadconeTuning]

just yanked the hose on the pump outlet... didnt really make a mess.... swapping fittings now and re-routing hoses currently... asus eee900 ftmfw btw

[millertime359]

get that leak fixed yet?

[RoadconeTuning]

fixed it last night, swapped fittings on the block and filled it up and let it run for 10 minutes in the kitchen with my blacklights turned on and didnt see a leak... which is what i expected to happen... hooked it up and i think i actually made a post from it last night...

initial load temps are a solid 10-12C lower than they were on air and core 0 and 1 are now only 1-3c off of core 2 and 3 instead of up to 10c off like they were with the Zalmann CPNS9700 NT that i had on there... SPP temps were at like 125F and the MCP was at 45C... both are WAY better than they were, my MCP was hovering at 67-71 and SPP would run on up there as well. i kinda want to remount that block now that i've done it once and see how i need to do things but at the same time im happy with the temps for the time being but knowing that they could be better is what bothers me lol.

"completed" pics will be up tonight... cable management is pretty half assed right now and i still need to mount the ballast for the CCFL's

[millertime359]

Good to hear. The only real improvement I can shortening that run to the rad. It looks a little droopy . Yea, I went and redid my loop the week after I did my first one. You do see very quick that W/C is still a mod and not a simple cooling upgrade. Even in a case that designed to accept W/C.

[RoadconeTuning]

i actually have it long on purpose, makes it where i can lean the res out and fill it...

here it is basically finished... cables still everywhere and trying to figure out how to hide my CCFL power wires (side note, makes my Klipsch F-3's not look quite so large now lol)

[RoadconeTuning]

another picture for kicks...

[millertime359]

OIC, sleeve the wires and pull them back into that cable management area. Or is there to little wire there to do that? I can't really tell from the pics

[kvadzio]

woot! the whole socket thing is so crowded with tubbing, that's crazy! maybe you should try to un-cross them? it'd look cleaner i think , but still, whole rig is nice

[RoadconeTuning]

its deff a clusterf*ck of hoses over the cpu area lol

the wires are just too short AND i have to force the back panel to click into place as it is with the number of wires ive got back there.

[millertime359]

its deff a clusterf*ck of hoses over the cpu area lol

the wires are just too short AND i have to force the back panel to click into place as it is with the number of wires ive got back there.

Yea, I have the same problem with the Cosmos 1000. I think I have mastered the check wires, slam door, lock tab technique now. i would get on P-PC and get some wire, crimp tool, and some ATX pins and extend some wires and shorten some others. I extended my ATX+4 and the molex cable going to my drive bays. It helps a lot.

Swapping the inlet for the out and each one of those mosfet blocks and NB block should help clear that up.

Well, got to keep with the name now don't you

[RoadconeTuning]

i deff dont care about the wires enough to change them like that... especially on this crappy OCZ 700w unit im running. i think its the reason im stuck at 3.2 stable and 3.4 flaky.