Nucleoxic (800D, 120x7, 3D Vision Surround)

[mBrane]

Hi, everyone! I'd like to invite you to share this journey with me.

The project has a couple of goals:
- to produce a durable case with a life expectancy of ~ 10 years (ie. power, cooling, and control capabilities),
- to assemble a powerful PC that can man-handle the current state-of-the-art for PC gaming (ie. latest titles, jacked, HD, 3D Vision Surround, etc.), and
- to deliver low sound levels (ie. will also be using this machine in a home recording studio), yet be able to drive components robustly.

My core approach will be:
- to use best practices and suppliers, and
- to work with fundamental, re-usable, and less price-or-technology-sensitive parts first (eg. case mods and cooling), followed by MB, CPU, RAM, SSD, and Video.

Near-term, specific objectives include:
- modding a Corsair 800D case to accept ThermoChill TA120.4 and TA120.3 rads (will need to extend an AX1200 PSU outside the case),
- implementing an Aquaero 5-based cooling control platform, and

... other fun junk-and-stuff that we'll hit along the way!

Notes:
- Look for posts labelled "Work Unit - x." I will try to break down this project by major work units, providing a convenient way to reference related instructions, comments, and pictures.
- Oh, and I don't know everything, that's for sure! Please feel free to question my assumptions, challenge the design details, or just openly dialogue with me about the project. I'm here to learn, too!

Seatbelts fastened? OK, OK, settle down, that's probably overkill, but here we go nonetheless...

[mBrane]

Here is a convenient switchboard, to jump directly to major items of interest.

General:
The Final Product
The Final Product
Picture Journal - Milestones

Work Units:
Prep Work
Top 480 Radiator
Power Supply Extension
Mid-Plate Ventilation Upgrade
Bottom 360 Radiator

[mBrane]

Yeah, I wish! Stay tuned...

[mBrane]

Following are hand-selected milestones as work progresses:

800D Bottom Radiator Mod Complete:



More to follow...

[mBrane]

- Remove case sides and front
- Remove dust filter from bottom rear of case
- Remove hinged HD bay door and lower 3.5" tabbed bay cover plate
- Remove all case fan covers and fans (store in 1 gallon Ziploc freezer bags)
- Remove SATA hotswap backplane and drive carriers (store in 1 gallon Ziploc freezer bag)
- Remove Front I/O panel (store in 1 gallon Ziploc freezer bag)

Note: be xtremely careful when removing the cables; feed slack from bottom while slowly taking up the slack from the panel side (failue to do so can result in breakage of some wires [see my rant elsewhere in this post re: Corsair's opportunity to improve this])

- Remove motherboard tray and adjoining side panel
- Remove mid-plate (ie. upper/lower horizontal compartment divider)

Remove Case Feet:
* you will need to gently peel back outside corner of each rubber foot to access retaining screws (a somewhat small, thin screwdriver worked wonders for me)



Dye Fan Cables Black (vinyl dye):
* you should remove each fan's small black plastic wire retaining clip (pry gently with a small flat-tipped screwdriver) and peel the fan hub sticker back slightly, in order to completely hide/dye the colored cables



More to follow...

[TonyLeung]

Hi, everyone! I'd like to invite you to share this journey with me.

The project has a couple of goals:
- to produce a durable case with a life expectancy of ~ 10 years (ie. power, cooling, and control capabilities),
- to assemble a powerful PC that can man-handle the current state-of-the-art for PC gaming (ie. latest titles, jacked, HD, 3D Vision Surround, etc.), and
- to deliver low sound levels (ie. will also be using this machine in a home recording studio), yet be able to drive components robustly.

My core approach will be:
- to use best practices and suppliers, and
- to work with fundamental, re-usable, and less price-or-technology-sensitive parts first (eg. case mods and cooling), followed by MB, CPU, RAM, SSD, and Video.

Near-term, specific objectives include:
- modding a Corsair 800D case to accept ThermoChill TA120.4 and TA120.3 rads (will need to extend an AX1200 PSU outside the case),
- implementing an Aquaero 5-based cooling control platform, and

... other fun junk-and-stuff that we'll hit along the way!

Seatbelts fastened? OK, OK, settle down, that's probably overkill, but here we go nonetheless...

Can be also mod in 700d?

[mBrane]

Can be also mod in 700d?

Absolutely! All of the mods can be used with a 700D.

I'll have more pics later today.

[TonyLeung]

Absolutely! All of the mods can be used with a 700D.

I'll have more pics later today.

what a good news

[mBrane]

Goal: Install a ThermoChill TA120.4 rad into the top of the 800D case

Components:
- Bitspower Custom Design Radguard 480 (black mesh)
- ThermoChill TA120.4 Radiator

Initial Approach:
- using a Dremel, cut an additional 120mm fan hole toward the front of the existing three fan holes.
* due to the irregular surface of this area of the case, this approach was modified (see Final Approach)

Final Approach:
- using a jig saw, Dremel, and a 480 rad template, cut a single rectangle that encompasses the entire 480 area, small enough to support the Bitspower Radguard, but large enough to permit the ThermoChill rad to mate directly to the Radguard (ie. no case metal between the rad and the radguard)

Note: fans will attach to the bottom of the radiator (ie. "pull" configuration)

Initial Approach (abandoned):



Cut Complete:
* ... and giving you a sneak peek of the bottom work



U-Channel Installed:



Radguard Mock-up:

[mBrane]

Goal: Shift power supply toward the rear, in order to create room for a ThermoChill TA120.3 rad

Components:
- Lian Li PSU Extension Bracket (PE-01)
- Corsair AX1200 Power Supply

Approach:
- using a Dremel, expand the existing power supply opening, to permit the PSU to shift toward the rear (ie. partially outside the case)
- using a Dremel, shorten the PSU support rails to align with end of AX1200 PSU

Here's what we're installing: a Corsair AX1200 with Lian Li PSU Extension:



Factory Power Supply Mount:



PSU U-Channel Curing:
* I sized the PSU opening to be exactly the right size, accounting for the u-channel (ie. no air gaps around the PSU... period!). So, I left the PSU inserted through the opening, while the u-channel adhesive cured (see Components post for details around BlackJack, the only u-channel adhesive worth a darn!).



PSU U-Channel Installed:
* Wow, this looks mangled in the photo (the touchup paint really stands out). This cut was more of a PITA than expected, because the fastener holes in the Lian Li PSU Extension are very close to the sides of the PSU opening: so much so that I decided to convert those holes to notches (you can see a little daylight in 2 places under the u-channel on each side). If I would have just Dremled the notches first (as opposed to trying to drill so close to the edge, I would not have marred the case on the left side [yes, I would still notch, even if I had a drill press]).

So, I will be using a backer bar (ie. short length of metal) to secure the Lian Li PSU Extension to the case, as opposed to just a bolt and washer, or so the theory goes (we'll see how that one works out).



PSU Rails Shortened:
* removed rivets, cut to length, swapped sides (ie. hiding cut ends against inside back of case), drilled new rivet holes and secured



New PSU Rail Rivets (viewed from bottom of case):



More to follow...

[mBrane]

Reserved

[Church]

mBrane: exactly. No need for original resistive to airflow hexagrill, if you are going to slap single-piece radgrill on top of it. I'd cut case top a bit different between grill and rad though, for more screws between grill/case/rad for extra mount rigidity. - You can cut as needed, and bend screw place "ears" level where there is that lowered portion of top.

[zigzag]

Just cut it like i and many others did, like this



Voila!!

[mBrane]

@churchy: Yes, I thought about this quite a bit. Overall, I'm OK with the radguard adding to the rigidity of the case (that Bitspower radguard is nice and thick!). It is long, however, and only has 4 screw holes at the corners, so it won't do much to strengthen the case (and I'm not about to drill more holes into that sexy radguard, or <gasp> glue it around the edges!). I know that you're not suggesting this, so...

On the flip side, I don't want the radiator shrouds to get torqued, whenever the case flexes (eg. when tipping it at odd angles). So, securing the rad to case ears is not desirable to me.

So, I've settled on attaching the rad *only* to the radguard, and *only* the radguard to the case. The radguard will rest upon a soft u-channel liner, and the weight of the rad + fans + water will ensure a nice tight seal.

P.S. Earlier experiments with silicone demonstrated that it won't stick sufficiently to the u-channel that I'm using, so I'm going to resist the temptation to run a bead of caulk between the radguard and the u-channel, even though good adhesion there would help to reinforce the case.

@zigzag: Yes! You broke into my garage and took pictures! That's *exactly* how I am doing mine (same radguard, too, but I'm going to flip it over to hide the obnoxious Bitspower logo! ).

[Church]

I'd also move grill & rad to one front or back end of case as much as possible - to have place to cut in free space some fillport.

[mBrane]

I'd also move grill & rad to one front or back end of case as much as possible - to have place to cut in free space some fillport.

Yeah, that's a toughy: I definitely want the 480's barbs to hang down at the rear, so I had to leave room for that end of the radiator. So, I pushed the rad as far forward as possible, while still leaving just enough room for the wires on the back of the front I/O header.


Corsair *really* subjects those cables to some tight turn requirements, and doesn't provide sufficient cable retention/support; one of my wires broke off while doing a gentle [I swear!] removal of the original I/O header. That's OK, though, because I have the new USB 3.0 header from Corsair ready to install later.


So, what I plan to do is to install the fillport next to the 2nd fan from the front. This will align very nicely above the tube res that I plan to install (once you bastards out there quit running everything out of stock! ).

[Church]

Hmm, just for things to look symmetrical if there is not enough place for fillport at case ends, i'd probably put it right in middle to the right or left of case.

[mBrane]

Hmm, just for things to look symmetrical if there is not enough place for fillport at case ends, i'd probably put it right in middle to the right or left of case.

If at all possible, I would like to avoid having to bend the tubing over to the top of the tube res (also aesthetics). The 2nd fan position is perfectly aligned over the res, and because this is a service port for the user, it kind of makes sense to have it toward the front of the computer, IMHO.

I'm learning that there are (too) many balancing acts, to watercool an 800D. Yes, I said it; I think that the 800D should be end-of-life. The newer cube-style cases are the way to go.

Then again, if everything were easy and modular, who would keep Dremel in business?

[mBrane]

Goal: Improve air flow from bottom compartment to top compartment (ie. exhaust section)

Components:
- Gentle Typhoon AP-15 Fans (qty: 2)

Approach:
- apply a 240 template to the mid-plate (covering existing fan hole)
- using a Dremel, cut second fan hole
- line the opening with u-channel
- mount fans on top of mid-plate, exhausting upward (ie. pulling air out of the bottom section of the case and exhausting it into the top section of case, where exhaust ultimately exits case

More to come...

[mBrane]

Goal: Install a ThermoChill TA120.3 rad into the bottom of the 800D case

Components:
- Bitspower Custom Design Radguard 360 (black mesh)
- ThermoChill TA120.3 Radiator

Approach:
- using a jig saw, Dremel, and a 360 rad template, cut an articulated (ie. with ears) radiator opening in the bottom of the case
- line the opening with u-channel
- mount 360 radiator stack in the following order: radguard on outside bottom fo case, the case ears, then rad on the inside bottom of case

Note: fans will attach to the top of the radiator (ie. "pull" configuration)

Rough Cuts Complete (jig saw):



Cut Complete (Dremel):





U-Channel Installed:



Radiator Mock-up:



PSU Clearance:



More to follow...

[mBrane]

*So* excited! Sidewinder *finally* (ahem, Shoggy) received more A5 Pro stock. I *immediately* ordered mine, plus the black faceplate, 3-way LED, flow meter, in-line temp sensor, IR remote, and waterblock.

In addition, I snagged two MCP-35X pumps plus an EK Dual V2 top.

Gary @ Sidewinder had it shipped within an hour or so of placing the order (you're *awesome*, Gary!). UPS sez my order has arrived in my home city, so unless the UPS terminal catches fire, I'll have everything tomorrow.

Oh, happy day!

[mBrane]

Oh, nice!!! Shoggy has retracted his previous statement that the PWM channels on the Aquero 5 can control MCP35X pumps!

What the heck? I spent $200 based on this. Grrrrrrrrrr...

[Church]

mBrane: that's if you think of those two 2pin pwm channels. You CAN control MCP35X using 4th 4-pin channel that can regulate both pwm and analogous mode. If your wish to regulate two pumps, you have to use pwm Y wire splitter or buy AA5-LT to get another PWM channel (yes, i don't like much the fact AA5 having only one proper pwm channel, but it's better then other alternatives having none at all).

[mBrane]

I've been busy working on the pump assembly. I purchased two MCP-35X pumps, an EK DDC Dual Top v2, and heatsinks (both pumps and heatsinks from Swiftech).

First, I closely examined the EK top, and removed a plastic burr or two. I then removed the stock tops from the pumps, and decided which way to mount the pumps to the EK top. Unfortunately, EK leaves absolutely *no* room () between the pumps for cable management, so the best that I could do was to mount the pumps with the Swiftech labels facing outward (same side as the EK top's "out" port), with the power and PWM cables facing backward. I will be dyeing those cables black, for sure.

The biggest disappointment is the fact that the Swiftech heatsinks are larger than the MCP-35X pumps. So, you cannot mount the heatsinks to the pumps, when using the EK top (). Of course, that's why I have tools in my garage (although Swiftech could have pointed this out a little better on their site first).

So, I will need to remove some fairly thick heatsink material (hopefully in a fairly neat manner). Oh, and to make this *much* more complicated than it should be, one heatsink mounting hole in the pump bottom of each pump is a frickin' electron's thickness () from the edge of the pump body, so I'll need to make more of a jig-saw-type-puzzle-piece cut, where the heatsinks will meet in the middle of the EK top.

* Hey, Swiftech! You should buy my new dual-heatsink design!

Finally, because I'm not entirely certain whether I'll mount the pump assembly horizontally on the mid-plane of the 800D or vertically in the back of a 5.25" bay, I still might need to remove more heatsink material, to keep from interfering with neighboring drive bays. So, I'm naturally leaning toward mounting the entire thing on the mid-plane, but that will require moving the fan holes (yes, I have already cut an additional 120mm hole beside the stock fan hole, plus two more 1" pass-through holes). So, now I think that I will make a custom plate for the mid-plane, to permit air to pass from the bottom to the body of the case (where it exits out the back), with a space for mounting the pump assembly.

Geesh...

[mBrane]

Cutting heatsinks to fit together on EK Dual DDC Top v2 (ie. like Swiftech *should* have made them!).

It's amazing how well the heatsinks transmit the heat of my Dremel's cutting wheel to my hand. Frickin' hot!

Battery needs recharged. Boo. Wait, wait, wait...