How and with what material are the base solded to the heatsink?

[GamerBR]

I'm doing a modification on a cooler to be able to use in the Xbox 360.The plan is simple,attach a copper plate to the copper base of the heatsink and them attach this copper plate to the screw holes,making contact with the die.My initial plan was doing that with some thermal adhesive,the contact area will be huge,so I'm sure it could hold the weight of the heatsink,but using thermal adhesive will surely not be as effective as soldering,the base has no holes,so if the material for soldering has a low melting point I can just melt it over the base and then attach the plate.

[GamerBR]

Oh something else,and can the heatsink be exposed to this kind of temperature?My main concern is with the compound inside the heatpipes,they probably do all the soldering before pumping it in.

[cozwin]

http://www.x-clamp-fix.com/catalog/p...x-DIY-Kit.html

http://www.llamma.com/xbox360/repair...-clamp_fix.htm

alot more simple way of fixing the heating problem

the main problems with 360 heat problems are.

Bad contact i.e. X clamp fix, Tiny aluminium heatsink on GPU because they had to make it small so left space for DVD Drive, and final biggest problem is airflow, only has 2 small fans to outtake and no intake.

If microsoft gave a crap, they would make better heatsinks such as the one on the ps3, and they would also improve airflow.

[cozwin]

I would not recommend any perm changes that cant be reversed though or microsoft wont replace it for free in the case of red ring of death.

[GamerBR]

I have no warranty where I live(Brazil).
Also this is not for a 360 with a problem,it's for the next new one(the 3rd).

[STEvil]

heating the heatsink to solder it will not cause damage to the heatpipes as long as you dont overdo it really bad.

Solder is usually a mix of lead and tin. You can get solder with lower melting points but dont go too low. Also it will take quite a bit of solder.

edit - Make sure you have a torch that is powerful enough. A MAPP (butane) torch was barely enough when I soldered two Thermaltake Big-Typhoons together. A propane or acetylene torch will work a lot better, but be careful not to overheat things.

[Serpentarius]

I'm doing a modification on a cooler to be able to use in the Xbox 360.The plan is simple,attach a copper plate to the copper base of the heatsink and them attach this copper plate to the screw holes,making contact with the die.My initial plan was doing that with some thermal adhesive,the contact area will be huge,so I'm sure it could hold the weight of the heatsink,but using thermal adhesive will surely not be as effective as soldering,the base has no holes,so if the material for soldering has a low melting point I can just melt it over the base and then attach the plate.

normally during the construction of the heatpipe + heatsink ... they're brazed somehow around 450 °C (840 °F) temp using flux (maybe those cheaper acid based flux)

for starters .. i wont recommend brazing (hard solder) .. coz it's requires skilled hands to do it .. not amateurs like us .. it's dangerous

but there're other option which also performs wonderfully ... where you can use lead soldering (soft solder)
they're easy .. in fact they're some old-school hardcores who actually solders the heatsink directly onto of the chip itself!! (but that's really hard)

copper-to-copper soft solder is easy .. but as for an environmental friendly message .. DO NOT USE LEAD FLUX! get those copper-based flux (you want the better heat transmission rite?)

remember these when you get the flux .. read the labels

SnAgCu - Tin, Silver, Copper based flux

No Zinc (its easy to be oxidize in the air = bad)
No Indium (it can change the molecule structure to ion = bad for watercool)
No Bismuth (breaks at low temps especially vapor phase)

Antimony (added strength = we do not need for wide surfaces)

gluck with your work

[GamerBR]

Thanks for the help.I saw some videos of people working with solder paste,and the final volume is much lower than the initial,any tips of how much I should cover the copper plate with it,so I can get just a thin,but strong,layer of solder?
And I'm going to sand paper the base to make it flat,up to which grit size should I use to not make the surface too smooth?Is 600 ok?

[GamerBR]

I've found something interesting,I've bought 3 tubes from ebay,I will try to solder using it,if it doesn't work it doesn't matter,it will be useful for other stuff(it can be used to sold wires)
http://www.solder-it.com/solderpaste.asp (Silver Bearing Solder-It)

[LedHed]

for optimal heat flow you are going to want to use a copper base/heat pipes with aluminum fins. This is because copper is most efficient at absorbing heat, but aluminum is most efficient at dispersing heat. This is why many of the top coolers use a combo of both materials.