Your ok if it doesnt kink.
But if it does you could use zipties or smart coils.
Something like these.
http://www.jab-tech.com/Coolsleeves-c-251.html
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What do you mean by this??
http://members.shaw.ca/virtualrain/t...-multibend.jpg < - it's like the middle one.
Last edited by spoof; 10-12-2008 at 07:33 AM.
Tubing runs are too tight. You need to add more slack and the issue will be resolved.
You need to use thick walled Tygon tubing to avoid kinks.
A bit more slack. Not too tight from barb to barb. Its just PVC vinyl and won't short out your memory lol
Yes, a tiny bit longer. I'll bet that 3 cm or 4 cm would do the trick.
You are very aggressive with your bends.
Last edited by IanY; 10-12-2008 at 07:38 AM.
fwiw, the mess 'o tubes on my Coolit hits the (rather tall) heat sinks on my ocz's. It worried me at first, but never has caused any problems and doesn't seem to affect my CPU temps. (Though I guess it's not exactly the same thing.)
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Once again, I appauld you for reading the FAQs and you have followed the "experts'" advice on tubing, but please, you are way too aggressive with the short tubing runs.
The sky won't fall if you give it some slack. I'm sure you have a strong pump (haven't checked). Lengthen the tubing by 3 cm to 6 cm lol
Ok, maybe i'll turn the radiator, so the fitting would be at the other side of the case and that will solve the kink problem and the short outlet tubing. Still i think, that the T-line configuration is good this way.
Like I said, no need tomove anything. Just lengthen the tubing.
Thin wall tubing stinks.
Sometimes if may seem that it doesn't kink, but when the pump is on, the sucking motion actually cripple it by itself.
You should and cannot use thin wall tubing.
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you are going to waste a lot of tubbing if you cut it short again. best to cut a couple cm bigger, make SURE there are no kinks, then and only then, IF you can make them shorter without kinks, you can slowly remove a centimeter at a time until its the 'perfect' size witout kinks. will save you a lot of tubbing this way.
as others have said, the routing looks fine, just add more tubbing. good luck
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I tired of kinks and not being able to remove certain components easily without draining my loop. The result is this:
I didn't want it to end up THAT long, but oh well, I cannot imagine it makes 1*C difference.
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AndrewZorn : well that is trully quite long enough..
spoof : i prefer add elbow fitting into the tube, where is take place the tube can be kink..
Just use the tube coils. I have much sharper bends in my tubes and no kinking at all with some smart coil!
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Ok, all done, working and cooling - now questions. First - idle i have huge difference between #0,#1 temps and #2,#3 temps - 39/39 and 47/47. Load @ 3.2Ghz@stock VCORE the temps are 54/54 and 58/58. Isn't this temps too high for stock VCORE? Fuzion v2+MCP320+3xNoiseblocker 120mm NB-BlackSilentFan XL2. And after Prime95 the temps fall down too slow.
hmm... i guess you have not seen kinking within the smartcoils, eh?
kinda kinks and folds and collapses... and thinking the smartcoils are enough... i just ignored it for a bit and the tube is perma-kinked... lol
no probs using smartcoils... just check em here and there...
OP, i find twisting the tubes gives it some more bendability...
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replace your crap plastic inlet barb (top one incase you dont know) with what i just linked.
Should take care of the kinking and also make your tubing shorter.
Simple fixes are always the best
Option 2, although a bit more ghetto is to ziptie pinch the middle where the tubing is collapsing like so:
However it seems like your tubing is way more collapsed, so i really recomend that bitspower 90 instead and you end it there.
Last edited by NaeKuh; 10-14-2008 at 08:00 AM.
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Guys, it's in the case and it's working, i just have some question.
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