EK Supreme + Q6600 Discontent

[DI3S3L]

Hi, this is my first post here.

I have a watercooling setup with:

Pump: MCP655
Rads: 240mm MCR220 and 240mm Black Ice Stealth
CPU Block: EK Supreme
GPU Block: Maze5

Pump ->BIS->CPU->GPU->MCR220->Pump

I've never had a load temp over 40 degrees on my GPU, even after I did the bios voltmod on it.There was no change in temperatures after doing the mod.

But my CPU goes up to 65 on 1.35 volts. I don't think it should be going that high, would lapping my CPU help?

I looked at the thread that deals with mounting an EK Supreme, and I have it mounted like it suggests. Also, I tried the other way (vertical) to see if there would be gains, and there weren't.

There is a constant 10-13 degrees Celsius difference between my cores. At full load with 1.35, it ranges from 55-65 degrees.

In the other posts I read, lapping the EK Supreme is a really bad idea, so I won't do that. However, the CPU seems to be a viable option. Anyone suggest doing it?

Thanks

[NaeKuh]

wait you have 2 rads on 1 long loop?

Can you take a picture of this?

Also i dont recomend having all that on 1 loop.

Also the Supreme is not a co-ed block. Meaning it likes to be alone or with the chipset only.

[Big_Daddy]

He's running 2 240 rads.. that should be enough... could be bad mounts, could be the IHS, could be too much/not enough TIM. Lapping should help. But if you could kill your cpu if your not careful. Plenty of faq's out there on the subject.

[IanY]

You better seperate your equipment into two loops. That setup is not ideal for the EK Supreme.

[NaeKuh]

yeah and it could be he's killing his flow. <--- what im guessing which is why i want a picture.

dual radiator setups are EXTREMELY messy.

stealth + Supreme + Gpu block + 2 rads? (already counted the stealth but just pointing out 2 rads?)

Uhh... im still looking at crappy flow on that poor D5 with all that.


Im sorry i cant get over that stealth. I have two, and they BLOW. The only reason why im using it is because its THIN and it fits where other rads wont.

[DI3S3L]

Wow, thanks for the quick replies.

The only reason I use a stealth, is because it's thin, I think it's the only one that fits in the top of a CM 690.

As of now, I can't get a picture, but I'll try and draw one in paint lol.

I figured that my pump cold handle the dual rads, but I guess I was wrong. I have the vario one, and temps don't change from setting 3 to 5. Maybe that was just ambients, I'll give it another test.

I'll be back with my paint skills.

[Sadasius]

Perhaps letting us know what kind of fans you have and what RPM they are running at would be the most helpful. Your using the Stealth because it's thin so I am guessing not a push/pull configuration on the rads either. Dissipating the heat is important and I think that is where your problem is. Probably too low of fan pressure to ventilate the hot air. Also the Supreme is kinda restrictive and may need to go on a loop of it's own especially since your using two rads and a GPU block. Don't know the Maze 5 so I don't know if it is restrictive itself or not.

[DI3S3L]

Here's my quick sketch.

The top two fans are the Antec Tri-Cool fans with three settings, I have them on high all the time. The ones in the back on the MCR220 are Scythe Slipstream fans and they run at 1200 rpm (70CFM or so). I have another one of those antec tricools on the side panel as an exhast, right over the CPU. The ones on top are intakes, for some reason they worked better that way.

Supposedly the maze5 isn't restrictive, but I never realized that the EK should be run all by its lonesome.

Thanks again

[IanY]

Lap the cpu IHS.

Remove the Maze 5 and Stealth radiator from the loop. Use the D5 for that loop. The Stealth radiator is... cannot be more clear... junk.

Just have EK Supreme, a new DDC3.2 with XSPC top or Petra Top, the MCR220.

Get rid of the SlipStreams. They are hopeless on a radiator and that's why your temps are so bad. Buy some medium speed Yates or Scythe S-Flex, or even better Ultra Kaze 2000 rpm or Zalmans.

[Sadasius]

Looking at the picture I am scratching my head to figure out how you filled this thing. Also those tri cool fans blow major chunks and pairing them up with the stealth did not help any. You need some fan muscle like the Scythe S-Flex series or something. Put them on a controller if they are too loud at full pin and set them where your happy with temps vs noise. It's better to have more muscle then needed then to have not enough muscle and getting sand kicked in your face. Also can you draw some arrows as to which way the fans are blowing. Would help to see what's up here.

[NaeKuh]

Get rid of the SlipStreams. They are hopeless on a radiator and that's why your temps are so bad.

There like cheap hookers, they just blow.

[IanY]

There like cheap hookers, they just blow.

Oh... I wouldn't know... you're obviously the expert

[Martinm210]

That is alot of restriction, but that core differential would lead me to believe maybe your IHS isn't very flat or you're mounting with one side getting more pressure than the other...or it's just windows paging a couple of cores more than the other.

Take a picture of your thermal paste after taking the block off, that'll leave a good understanding if it's the IHS or a bad mount or not.

[DI3S3L]

No pictures because I can't find the cable for my camera. I'll search around for a while.

I know the stealth is junk, I bought it for $20, so it doesn't really bother me.

The Antec fans I got for 5 dollars, and I didn't think that the SlipStreams were that bad. I'll have to change that. In the mean time, will a shroud help them?

I have a T-Line in, I just forgot it in my bad drawing. It's right before the pump, and goes up to the top of my case.

This is my first watercooling project, so there is still quite a bit of knowledge to be had.

I think I'll pick up a bigger case so that two loops will fit. What do you think, a Haf-932? I want to keep both rads internal if possible, but if it's a bad idea, I'll be fine with the external one.

I'm sure the cable will resurface by tomorrow for my camera, so pictures are sure to follow. I think I'll take out my 8800GT from the loop, but should I put my CPU on both rads or just the MCR220 (outside of case).

[NaeKuh]

1 cpu only requires a MCR220.

[septim]

shroud and slipstream, you should try it, you could mock up a DIY card board shroud and test for now.
slipstreams are weak as radiator fan, not enough air pressure i think.

agreed with Naekuh, and Mcr220 with the appropriate fans should be enough for a Cpu...

[Martinm210]

No pictures because I can't find the cable for my camera. I'll search around for a while.

I know the stealth is junk, I bought it for $20, so it doesn't really bother me.

The Antec fans I got for 5 dollars, and I didn't think that the SlipStreams were that bad. I'll have to change that. In the mean time, will a shroud help them?

I have a T-Line in, I just forgot it in my bad drawing. It's right before the pump, and goes up to the top of my case.

This is my first watercooling project, so there is still quite a bit of knowledge to be had.

I think I'll pick up a bigger case so that two loops will fit. What do you think, a Haf-932? I want to keep both rads internal if possible, but if it's a bad idea, I'll be fine with the external one.

I'm sure the cable will resurface by tomorrow for my camera, so pictures are sure to follow. I think I'll take out my 8800GT from the loop, but should I put my CPU on both rads or just the MCR220 (outside of case).

Yeah, just keep playing with it...a little tinkering goes along ways. The stealth is not a bad radiator, it is a little more restrictive and the fin density does prefer alot of strong pressure like fans, but it's still surface area that'll dissipate heat just fine.

It is quite a bit of restriction in one loop, but your not going to see 10 degrees from flow rate, maybe a degree or two, but not 10. Even things like getting the barb order wrong doesn't matter as much as you might think. I managed to do 5 mounts on the Enzotech RevA backwards and only saw losses in performance by about a degree over the right way.

The supreme mounting systems isn't very user friendly. Because the base is bowed...AND...the mount uses springs that don't have any sort of stop or indication when pressure is done...it's really easy to mount the block slightly crooked which can make a big difference. Your best bet is to look really closely at the thermal paste spread when you remove the block. It should be a nice centered thin spread over the die area. The paste spread afterward is the best indicator, you can tell alot from that alone.

I've gone as far as using the depth portion of digital calipers to measure spring compression on all four corners to ensure the block is square. You could do something similar with some sort of cutout depth guage or counting turns on the thumbnuts..etc.

[DI3S3L]

I'm making a cardboard shroud right now, I'll be back with results in less than an hour I'm sure.

Thanks for the card tip KaptCrunch, I'll start doing that. Counting the number of turns is somewhat annoying.

After the shroud testing is done, I'll dismount and check out the thermal paste distribution.

Thanks guys

[DI3S3L]

There is a drop of 2 degrees with the cardboard shroud on.

I'm going to practice lapping on an old pos chip laying around, and see how it goes. If I do it well, I'll try it on my q6600.

I'm definitely contemplating grabbing a HAF 932, they look like they're perfect for having 2 rads on the inside.

[DI3S3L]

I took my graphics card out of the loop, so I'm just running my CPU on the MCR220 hanging in the back. Idle temps at 1.35 volts are 24-33, and at load (still at 1.35) 48-57. I took out the other radiator and left the fans.

I'm probably going to go and get the necessary sandpaper for lapping sometime today, and give that a shot. The thermal paste was concentrated on the outsides of the chip, but then on the waterblock, it was in the middle. I applied the paste to the CPU, I'll get pictures up soon.

Putting the stock cooling on my 8800GT (or is it a 9800GT?) has just made me realize how loud and bad it really is. Idle temps at 51 for it.

[DI3S3L]

After lapping my CPU, I've seen a decrease of about 8-10 degrees in general, but there's still around 6-7 degrees between the cores. I'm going to keep remounting until I get this right. I'm sending 1.4 volts through it right now at 3.2GHz, and load temps are all under 56 degrees.

That doesn't sound too bad to me, is it acceptable?

That HAF-932 is calling for me...I just might have to make one end up on my doorstep sometime this week.

[T_Flight]

These IHS's are the worst. They really are. They always have been. Intel really needs to do something about that. They are designed to use that wax based crap they use on the stock cooling to fill those deep grooves in the IHS but nopbody wants to use wax based TIM. It's horribly inefficient and seals off the suface preventing proper Thermal Interface of good quality TIM. As good asd their CPU's are, you'd think they'd WANT good TIM with their CPU's and perfectly flat pre-lapped CPU's.

[T_Flight]

After lapping my CPU, I've seen a decrease of about 8-10 degrees in general, but there's still around 6-7 degrees between the cores. I'm going to keep remounting until I get this right. I'm sending 1.4 volts through it right now at 3.2GHz, and load temps are all under 56 degrees.

That doesn't sound too bad to me, is it acceptable?

That HAF-932 is calling for me...I just might have to make one end up on my doorstep sometime this week.

Why so much voltage for that OC? That seems high for that level of OC. Have you tried reducing voltage and testing to see if it's stable at a lower voltage? It might not need that much.

[DI3S3L]

I haven't been playing with it for long, and I just did the quickest stable overclock with a half decent amount of voltage just to test the performance of my block.

I'm just going to go through with some max fsb overclocking first, then I'll go on to the CPU.

BTW, I love the EVGA 750i FTW I just picked up. It's ten thousand times better than my former Asus Striker Extreme, which would not function. ever.