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Thread: Sanded down the IHS of a Q6600 to the silicone.

  1. #1
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    Sanded down the IHS of a Q6600 to the silicone.

    I wanted to do this for a while and finally got the patience to do it. It took 6+ hours of sanding by hand and here is the result:






    As you can see the chip somehow survived. I took a screen shot in the morning and I was in a rush. My temperature before this procedure was 75-80 with both the cooler and the IHS lapped. After it will not go above 56 at 3.2 Ghz and that is with an additional +.1 to the vcore on top of the minimal needed to run 3.2 stable. this is with 1.375 at full load and I need 1.275 for that speed to be stable. I want a Solid 3.6 GHZ out of this. The Q6600 I have has a vid of 1.2875 are reported by coretemp and the cooler I'm using is the Tuniq. By the way a lot of people seem to think that the core and the IHS are soldered and this is simply not true. They use some hind of very strong silver adhesive that is no fully solid. No matter how good of a cooling system someone has, if the IHS does not have good contact between the die and the bottom of the IHS the temps will not be the best they can be. I did this ot get the most out of my gear.


    I used 100 grit wet-dry and I was lapping without water because water killed the sand paper way to early. You have to completely shave off the top part of the IHS and this will take 6+ hours. If you rub too fast it will get very hot so when it starts to heat up pause and continue. after you the the whole top of proceed with caution. When i was doing it one part of the IHS was taller than the other so i almost panicked and gave up. you can pretty much see it in the first picture that it was not leveled. Keep going with a 400 grit until all the silver paste is gone and the cpu looks roughly like the second picture. then finish it off with 800 and stop. This is not a beauty pageant so there will be scratches on the silicone. they look deep but they are nothing to worry about. The goal is to have the dies leveled with the outer part of the partly decapitated IHS so whatever will be rolling your monster will not crush them into tiny bits. You have to carefully remove the cpu clamp from the motherboard. You cannot use a pushpin cooler. In my case since 2MM disappeared from the CPU my cooler was not holding it very tight so I used washers beetween the spring and the mounting plate to give it some extra hold. I picked it up by the cooler and it was fine, I also rotated the motherboard in the air by the cooler and it did not budge. I even picked it up by the cooler while the power is on to make sure there is good contact. There will very little clearance between the the cpu socket and the bottom of the cooler after this so make sure you do not shave off more than absolutely necessary. Make sure your cooler is completely flat at the base. Proceed with caution. I will follow this up with some pics later.



    How to clean it: I used the arctic clean solution. Fill a small glass to a point where the cpu is submerged and dip the cpu and then use a toothbrush to make sure all that copper dust/paste is off of everything u can let the cpu soak in it but do not leave it there for more than 5 minutes. do not use a plastic or Styrofoam cup because the arctic clean will dissolve it and it will not be cool. After step 1 use the step 2 bottle and dunk it in, wait and wipe off. Use a hairdryer to completely dry and enjoy.

    More pics:
    1
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    The temps at 3.6
    Valid
    Last edited by Ruslan; 09-05-2008 at 10:07 AM. Reason: Added the cpuz link

  2. #2
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    nice glad it still works

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    I had the same idea, thx for testing it out for me :P

    I´m also going to attempt this method, seems much safer than using a razor blade.

    Do the brackets of the socket still hold the CPU securely in place now that most of the IHS is gone?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrogBite View Post
    I had the same idea, thx for testing it out for me :P

    I´m also going to attempt this method, seems much safer than using a razor blade.

    Do the brackets of the socket still hold the CPU securely in place now that most of the IHS is gone?
    You have to remove the bracket because it it stands taller than the shaved off area. The cpu is held in its place by the pressure of the heat sink that is screwed on.

  5. #5
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    ok, thx a lot.

  6. #6
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    safer way to remove ihs :P?
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  7. #7
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    Well most people that use the razor blade method end up destroying their chip. With this method, given that you do the last bit of lapping slowly is in my opinion safer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FrogBite View Post
    Well most people that use the razor blade method end up destroying their chip. With this method, given that you do the last bit of lapping slowly is in my opinion safer.
    My thought exactly
    be very careful lapping the last of the Intel tim to not lap it to a point of the CPU latch being higher than the top of your core.

  9. #9
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    Here is an update:
    I left it to prime for 16 hours and it passed.



    I turned off the AC and close all the windows before going to work. I came back and took this screen shot. The ambient temp was 27C at the time of the screen shot.
    Last edited by Ruslan; 09-05-2008 at 02:24 PM. Reason: Made a mistake

  10. #10
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    What kind of cooling are you using? Sorry if you've already said it, and I've missed it somewhere.

    XtremeSystems BF3 Platoon - Any XS member is welcome.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gamekiller View Post
    What kind of cooling are you using? Sorry if you've already said it, and I've missed it somewhere.
    A lapped Tunic

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    Excellent mod! How much sandpaper did you end up using? Do you think you could use a file instead of 100 grit sandpaper?

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    i dont want to burst this thread.

    Its a great mod, but however you just screwed yourself on using mostly all the recient waterblocks on the market due to the bowed nature.

    :T

    Pray you never go on water.

    Quote Originally Posted by majestik View Post
    Excellent mod! How much sandpaper did you end up using? Do you think you could use a file instead of 100 grit sandpaper?
    i believe your on water, so you should read my statement i just posted.
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    Quote Originally Posted by majestik View Post
    Excellent mod! How much sandpaper did you end up using? Do you think you could use a file instead of 100 grit sandpaper?
    I used about 10 sheets. A file would probably work but it is more dangerous. I would try to file most of it and leave a little for the paper. you will need a file that is very well made and flat and wide enough for the whole IHS to fit on it. Make sure to keep a firm grip on it. and obviously lap any coolr that is going to sit on it FLAT

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    Quote Originally Posted by NaeKuh View Post
    i dont want to burst this thread.

    Its a great mod, but however you just screwed yourself on using mostly all the recient waterblocks on the market due to the bowed nature.

    :T

    Pray you never go on water.



    i believe your on water, so you should read my statement i just posted.
    Can you give me an example of why this wont work for water because I don't follow you.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruslan View Post
    Can you give me an example of why this wont work for water because I don't follow you.
    I wanna know same thing.

  17. #17
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    Cause you can crack the die from uneven pressure, I haven't done it, but then again I never used a bowed waterblock anyways.
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    Because "most" CPU blocks are bowed and not flat.

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    And after that it looked like this http://paakkis.oc-papat.com/QX6700.jpg

  20. #20
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    It doesn't really matter if the cpu latch part of the ihs that remains is slightly higher than the die... because you can remove THAT with the razorblade method, and you'll have a perfect overview of where you're cutting so you won't cut any resistors that are there
    lol... This forum requires that you wait 70 seconds between posts. Please try again in 8 seconds.
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    Me:........

  21. #21
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    This is how much you need to take off. I have a celeron that i might make a ginnypig and take it to a power tool carefully...

  22. #22
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    a review i read talked about taking the ihs off 3 cpuz and all of them failed. seems this is the way to do it if you want to take it off.

    Quote Originally Posted by paakkis View Post
    And after that it looked like this http://paakkis.oc-papat.com/QX6700.jpg
    your cpu does not have the ihs copper frame and thats why its cracked. this one is different like you see in the second pic. it's kind of like the old athlon xp was with its four rubber standoffs. so there shouldn't be any problems.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by NaeKuh View Post
    i dont want to burst this thread.

    Its a great mod, but however you just screwed yourself on using mostly all the recient waterblocks on the market due to the bowed nature.

    :T

    Pray you never go on water.



    i believe your on water, so you should read my statement i just posted.
    Good call, I guess you would need to sand the waterblock as well. Although most have very thin bases.

    And me, I don't have balls size of watermelons to sand my IHS anyways - I'm just curious

  24. #24
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    thats a pretty picture well done.
    although something i dont have the patience for
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  25. #25
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    Pretty cool, and real time consuming. Interesting, though--I hadn't ever considered sanding the entire IHS off down to the core.

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