Sanded down the IHS of a Q6600 to the silicone.

[CryptiK]

Nice work, haven't seen that done before. There is a large improvement in temps, the IHS must have been making poor contact or intel's TIM must have pretty poor heat transfer. Glad it still works.

[janolle]

I like that! It's almost safe to remove the IHS that way, plus you get a free shim that fits perfectly.

I'm wondering if there will be problems with direct touch heatpipe coolers. It's likely that a part of the core/cores will be left without heatpipe contact on those.

[Ruslan]

I like that! It's almost safe to remove the IHS that way, plus you get a free shim that fits perfectly.

I'm wondering if there will be problems with direct touch heatpipe coolers. It's likely that a part of the core/cores will be left without heatpipe contact on those.

It makes contact with the base of the heat sink that transfers to the pipes.

[Loser777]

That looks great, especially as the remaing IHS on the edges will protect against pressure... I have to ask... is there still solder on the dies or are they bare?

[Ruslan]

That looks great, especially as the remaing IHS on the edges will protect against pressure... I have to ask... is there still solder on the dies or are they bare?

They are bare.

[Boogerlad]

so arcticlean eats the indium solder?

[Ruslan]

so arcticlean eats the indium solder?

no it does not, that stuff gets lapped off.

[gOtVoltage]

Nice Mod ....Almost the same the X4's except i leave the thin layer of copper ,, the whole IHS is only 2mm thick when done from top of side to pcb.. Because the soldered is usually laid on thick...


As for water blocks you can use Any one you want ... You just tighten the W/B base screws and check gasket then you can lap the W/B flat using little presshure when you sand.. No problem

Again great mod and Nice temps

[T_M]

Can i be the first to really say that is ing awesome work and you really pulled it off nicely.
You took the time, patience, and balls to actually do what many have just talked about and came trhough with flying colours.
Respect.

[BulldogPO]

Looks great!
I did plan to do similar thing but I do´nt have time enuff for it.
And there is also lack of motivation

[dinos22]

wooooooooow man

that's fantastic

nice work

[Houdini]

Nice work, but dont understand why you guys are so amazed..

It's really common seen on the danish hw forums

[T_M]

Probably because i dont look at danish forums

[Oliver]

Same as Tim and Dino, great work

[Alex-Ro]

Would someone try for a Wolfdale to see the resultS?

[JaVa_Az]

I got a E8600 Wolfy that runs way way too hot. My q6600 runs cooler and i have it at 3.8Ghz. Thinking i want to try this out but i dont want to be sanding for 6 hours. But any fast way of doing this desides a File would produce too much heat and that you would have to take pretty slow. I might just try it what the hell it is only a few hundred bucks. Ill keep you updated

[AndrewZorn]

This is perfection.

[JaVa_Az]

here you go one wolfy E8600 sanded down to the Core.

Sorry about the bad picture my camera batteries need to be recharged so i couldnt get a better pic ..
First off i would like to say your going to need to eat a whole box of wheeties before you start this mod. Half way threw your going to be saying to yourself what the @#%$ was i thinking. Then you will say the same thing 100 more time to the end.
Just to let you know a file is not any faster took me 9 hours to get it to what you see in the picture.Before is hit the core chamber i switched to Sand paper But i only had 150 grit sandpaper on hand ( to bad ace hardware is not openb at 3AM in the morring) Also it took a toll on my hand Two blisters and two bloody fingers ( wear gloves if you got them)
I had to sand down even farther then what i saw i the pictures to start this thread. I think the wolfy core is even lower then the cores of the Q6600.
First test went bad 15c higher then it was before. But i think the water block was lieing to me. it was showing 100% coverage on the core. But since the door is off the cpu socket there is springback.So i might be hitting the side rail of the cpu socket with full presure causeing it not to get 100%. I was way to tired to mess with it anymore. Fingers hurting arm sore I took myself to bed. I might mess with it again here in a little bit i will update my results

[T_M]

Good effort, please report back your final findings.

[Ruslan]

If you look at my pictures in my first post you will see that on my 65nm Q6600 the cooler is touching the latch that holds the clamp. Did you remove the clamp?. You must make sure that the top of your super lapped cpu is the highest point and not a part of the cpu socked above it. you can probable use some nose pliers to CAREFULLY bent the part down a little. since a 65nm barely makes it then 45nm needs some extra effort on the motherboard. Not a big problem if done very carefully.

[JaVa_Az]

I have a danger den MC-TDX water block just about the whole block will fit inside the cpu clamp bracket. It did have a mark where it was hitting the side where the metal bar is that you use to clamp the cpu in it would for sure hit the part where your TRUE rests. I dont have to worry about that with this block. I did cut a little bit of a channel in the water block to make sure it doesnt hit. But still the same problem. The water block shows good contact with the cores when i take it off. but something is happening when i tighten it all the way down. I`ll figure it out sooner or later. Not to worried about it I have my Q6600 in here now running at 3.8 doesnt get over 68 under full load. It is a bit harder for me since i have water cooling on everything so i cant take the board out of the case to see what the deal is. I might get a new radiator next week if i do that, I want to redo my loop make a change or two So the system will get drained and i can pull the board and figure out what the problem is, Plus by then my fingers will have healed and my arm wont be so sore. So i`ll be in a better mood to deal with it. Just needs a tweek or two to work it out

[initialised]

I used 100 grit wet-dry and I was lapping without water because water killed the sand paper way to early. You have to completely shave off the top part of the IHS and this will take 6+ hours.

There is a quicker way:

Random orbital sander, belt sander would be quicker, and don't worry too much about the die/dice since Si is much harder than Cu the surrounding IHS material will etch faster than the die.

[SquidgyB]

I'd love to do this to my QX9650, but £450 is a lot of cash to be playing with... maybe later in it's lifetime. Add to that the worry that even with the shim, I'd be worried about the weight of a TRUE 120 hanging off of it. I'll probably wait till I can afford a watercooling setup, I'd imagine the pressure on the die is much more uniform with a small waterblock, rather than a huge heatsink.

Great job though mate, nice result!

[Ruslan]

I'd love to do this to my QX9650, but £450 is a lot of cash to be playing with... maybe later in it's lifetime. Add to that the worry that even with the shim, I'd be worried about the weight of a TRUE 120 hanging off of it. I'll probably wait till I can afford a watercooling setup, I'd imagine the pressure on the die is much more uniform with a small waterblock, rather than a huge heatsink.

Great job though mate, nice result!

Yea QX9650 is probably a bad idea to experiment like this on. Mine is still running fine with my Tunic tightly screwed in. Looks like keeping the outside part of the IHS was worth it at least for me. I paid $200 for my Q6600 and I was worried about loosing it because it's a good working chip. I would not do this to a chip that costs more than $1000.

[fragmasterMax]

Can i be the first to really say that is ing awesome work and you really pulled it off nicely.
You took the time, patience, and balls to actually do what many have just talked about and came trhough with flying colours.
Respect.

+1
Has anyone thought about doing this with a bench grinder?