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Thread: Watercooled 320w Peltier Project

  1. #26
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    try using this Magicool cpu waterblock it should be much bigger than 50mm
    and its only 33 bucks

    http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...pogee-gtx.html

    Quote Originally Posted by shifteh View Post
    i have a 62mm 320w comeing so im going with that

    how thick would you call thick? also i was thinking the coldside might work better if that plates smaller

    whats this neoprene is it a spray foam or cut out and attach kind of foam>?

    ive got a homemade battery charger for a power supply its got a multitapp soanar group transformer with voltages from i think like 5 to 25v and its rectified so its a even more volts :P

    its jump started a tractor before so i guess it will be enough if not overkill lol the guy i got it off said the transformers capable of 50 amps if not more

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4htec View Post
    try using this Magicool cpu waterblock it should be much bigger than 50mm
    and its only 33 bucks

    http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...pogee-gtx.html
    THat actually looks very promising! Only problem with that block is that it will need to be ground down to be completely flat. Aside from that the design looks very easy to insulate!!!

  3. #28
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    hmm im thinking belt sander? Lawl anybody know if this world work?>

    also the bottom of the peltier is still 62mmx62mm and the cpu is 50mmx2 lol so yuh still a problem

  4. #29
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    That magicool block is still about 50mm and the temps are poor. I'd not recommend that. Unless you're saying to sand down the block and then lap the surface... That would be interesting. =)

    Shifteh: Not a good idea to use belt sander because it will produce a very rough surface (unless your talking about that magic block). Since you have a 60mm TEC you need a hot and cold plate. Then you should fasten both together, so the order from top to bottom:

    Block
    TIM
    copper hotplate
    TIM
    TEC
    TIM
    copper coldplate
    TIM
    CPU

    I believe there are some good guides on how to lap the surfaces of the plates. Remember these should be very flat/perfect surfaces... Also pressure between the cold/hot plates should be 150psi for best results. Just using the block and MB will get you about 40psi without a backplate and 75psi with. Over tightening the block will make your MB stress and not boot (most of the time you can just loosen the block and it will boot again). Uncle Jimbo is a resident expert on mounting pressure.
    Last edited by Vinas; 08-22-2008 at 05:39 AM.
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  5. #30
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    Cool,

    Questions
    #1 how do i test for pressure i dont have a torque wrench or anything i could just have the plates bolted together,

    #2 is TIM thermal compound and which one would you recommend i was thinking arctic silver 5 or whatever its called

    Im going to sims metals out derwent park or some ware and ill try and acquire the copper, then ill see if i can get purden engineering to mill the bottom of the coldplate to have a piece that fits on the cpu

  6. #31
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    dang this uncle jimbo seems to be an expert in everything!!

    can you show us some pics on how to torque theplates?

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by shifteh View Post
    Cool,

    Questions
    #1 how do i test for pressure i dont have a torque wrench or anything i could just have the plates bolted together,

    #2 is TIM thermal compound and which one would you recommend i was thinking arctic silver 5 or whatever its called

    Im going to sims metals out derwent park or some ware and ill try and acquire the copper, then ill see if i can get purden engineering to mill the bottom of the coldplate to have a piece that fits on the cpu
    You can use the AS5 between metal blocks but it is not recommended to be used on the TEC surface. For that you will want to use AS Ceramique as far as I know. Hope this helps!

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by shifteh View Post
    Questions
    #1 how do i test for pressure i dont have a torque wrench or anything i could just have the plates bolted together
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...09#post3234509
    go to page 3 post #73 by Uncle Jimbo

  9. #34
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    Thanks zipdogso cheers

    ill use ceramique on the pelt then and AS5 on the cpu to block and block to watercoolingblock

    thanmks unclejimbo for the torque post i think ill try and find a torque screwdriver that might be easier

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by shifteh View Post
    Thanks zipdogso cheers

    ill use ceramique on the pelt then and AS5 on the cpu to block and block to watercoolingblock

    thanmks unclejimbo for the torque post i think ill try and find a torque screwdriver that might be easier
    AS5 on the cpu with a tec is not good. It will break down in about a month
    I had this problem!

    AS5 can not handle the cold temps do to the water content in the mix. Even phase guys will tell you nothing but ceramique



  11. #36
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    mk ceramiqe it is then

    AR5 or ceramiqe on the hot plates to waterblock?>
    Last edited by shifteh; 08-22-2008 at 04:34 PM.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by shifteh View Post
    mk ceramiqe it is then

    AR5 or ceramiqe on the hot plates to waterblock?>
    The AS5 is ok on the hot side but didn't gain anything over ceramique so I would just stick with it! I also didn't like the way AS5 covered the tec and made me clean it. You couldn't just wipe it off.
    Had to use alcohol or acetone to clean it.



  13. #38
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    the tec should be here anyday , coming from shanghi

  14. #39
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    Woot the TEC's arrived it has small chips on 2 corners , will this be a problem? approx 2mm chipped off silicone still holding chips in place

    :P its huge like double the size of a normal one :P im going to find a heatsink and run some tests :P

  15. #40
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    is it still sealed?

  16. #41
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    i pulled a chip off and i can see metal about a 1mm worth of leak and anouther with about 1mm again???

    there both on one side

    is it sealed so the cold side does not create condensation and damadge parts???

    i sucked on one leak and air comes from the other little leak so yuh lol theres a leak

    there only tiny leaks btw

    and like there corner chips not in the middle or anything
    Last edited by shifteh; 08-31-2008 at 11:37 PM.

  17. #42
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    oh and btw the chips are ceramic chips not the elements Lawl


    *updated*

    Aww come on peoplez peeze anser i want to power it up , just want to know if it will up
    Last edited by shifteh; 09-01-2008 at 02:19 AM. Reason: Bleh

  18. #43
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    i was thinking id make a minute amount of epoxy and dab it on the hole's and it would seal it but should check with u guys if this would work? its like somebodies knocked the spikey ceramic corner and its like snapped only a little

  19. #44
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    Just hook a remote switch (button) and turn that thing on if it blows....uh.....RMA it or ask for your money back, since it came like that...

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  20. #45
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    well i have seen unsealed units so meh ill go and get some epoxy and fix it

    *prays to satan*


    ,,,,
    *Also asks for bag of unlimited ch33ze and chicken burgers that are not addictive or have devil like tricks that will me over

  21. #46
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    oh well ive put epoxy in the holes so yuh lol ave to waits

  22. #47
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    Well it seems everyone is out for the moment!! Since I am no tec pro, I am unsure if the epoxy would work. The only thing I can foresee is too make sure that the epoxy is capable of handling the temperatures (extreme cold/hot). If so, then I don't see why it couldn't work!! Good luck.

  23. #48
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    my guess is chip will be dead.
    sorry I will not be replying much. you can see why here



  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by littleowl View Post
    my guess is chip will be dead.
    sorry I will not be replying much. you can see why here
    Man, I am soo sorry to hear that! Hope you heal well!!

  25. #50
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    can U post a pic of the broken parts of the tec?

    thanks repsol



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