First Boot - XS Thanks!

[sheriff_deadeye]

I just booted my first WC build - no water yet, just a test boot. All drives recognized a-ok, fans working and everything is ready for H2O, which I will fill tomorrow.

just wanted to thank everyone here at XS - great help and a great community.

I'll be posting pics and a worklog soon.

anyone else wishes to post some XS thanks for a successful build, feel free...

thanks again!

[Plan.B]

Congrats. Pics wanted! Is this the first time the loop will be filled? I usually build the loop outside of the computer and let it run/test it for a few days before I attach it to the hardware.

[SeanB]

i always attach then fill it up slowly, i usually dont take much prep/care in the leak testing myself.
have a lot of confidence in my blocks/barbs i guess..

[sheriff_deadeye]

i know i should remove everything to test, but it would be a significant effort.

i'm going to jump start the psu and then fill and test.

[Polizei]

Congrats. Pics wanted! Is this the first time the loop will be filled? I usually build the loop outside of the computer and let it run/test it for a few days before I attach it to the hardware.

The problem that could arrise with that though is moving the assembled and filled loop... you could jar something loose or the torque on the tubing could loosen a barb when you are installing it into the case. The tubing is "at rest" so to speak, when sitting out on a table, but when you jam it into a case, it's under tension and has torque on the barbs which could make them loose.

Might not leak on your table, but once it's been moved around and played with, then it might leak in the case.

[Plan.B]

The problem that could arrise with that though is moving the assembled and filled loop... you could jar something loose or the torque on the tubing could loosen a barb when you are installing it into the case. The tubing is "at rest" so to speak, when sitting out on a table, but when you jam it into a case, it's under tension and has torque on the barbs which could make them loose.

Might not leak on your table, but once it's been moved around and played with, then it might leak in the case.

After the external test run, I drain and dis-assemble the loop, mount waterblocks, run tubing, clamp and fill. The external test run is to test the blocks, barbs, clamps, tubing, and pump for leaks under pressure. I do it with new equipment that I've never used before. Once I've used it and know that it works, I skip the external test.

[Walternowi]

Congratulations! Be forewarned, WC is an addiction, you CANNOT stop tinkering with your rig

[sheriff_deadeye]

ok...filled the loop and started testing.

of the 10 barbs in the loop, 6 of them leaked. I caught two of them when i flushed the rad, before putting it back in the case.

the other four leaked in the case...i simply didn't tighten them enough.

fortunately, no damage done...caught all of them before anything serious.

the last leak remaining is again on my swiftech rad. I'm using a swiftech mcr220 rad with EK 3/8" High Flow Fittings. I dare not tighten it any further and i have used plumbing putty, but there is still a very small leak at the point where the barb fastens to the rad.

[gabe]

ok...filled the loop and started testing.

of the 10 barbs in the loop, 6 of them leaked. I caught two of them when i flushed the rad, before putting it back in the case.

the other four leaked in the case...i simply didn't tighten them enough.

fortunately, no damage done...caught all of them before anything serious.

the last leak remaining is again on my swiftech rad. I'm using a swiftech mcr220 rad with EK 3/8" High Flow Fittings. I dare not tighten it any further and i have used plumbing putty, but there is still a very small leak at the point where the barb fastens to the rad.

are the o-rings installed?

[sheriff_deadeye]

are the o-rings installed?

yes, no doubt.

[SiGfever]

Congratulations, once you "Get Wet" you won't want to go back.

[dnottis]

ok...filled the loop and started testing.

of the 10 barbs in the loop, 6 of them leaked. I caught two of them when i flushed the rad, before putting it back in the case.

the other four leaked in the case...i simply didn't tighten them enough.

fortunately, no damage done...caught all of them before anything serious.

the last leak remaining is again on my swiftech rad. I'm using a swiftech mcr220 rad with EK 3/8" High Flow Fittings. I dare not tighten it any further and i have used plumbing putty, but there is still a very small leak at the point where the barb fastens to the rad.

If they are plastic and you overtighten the barbs you will get leaks. Back them off a bit so that the threads seal it. When you tighten them too much and there is no exposed thread they leak. Also, when using plastic barbs use teflon tape to help seal.

[sheriff_deadeye]

When you tighten them too much and there is no exposed thread they leak.

these are EK barbs and not plastic...does the same still hold true?

[sheriff_deadeye]

another 1/8 turn (and a scary one at that, given how tight it is) has all but eliminated the leak...i'd really like to avoid draining the loop, adding the tape, and re-filling if at all possible, especially since it may or may not solve the problem. A bit of silicon sealant may be needed at the point where the barb meets the rad.

this is the one aspect of the build that seems to defy the group's general experience...hand turn the barbs + 1/4 turn. In this case, I hand tightened +1/4 turn and that produced 4 leaks. I ended up really tightening down eac of the barbs (with the exception of the cpu barbs) with the wrench.

[Xilikon]

With metal barbs with o-ring retainers, you can tighten until the retainer hit the surface without crushing the o-ring.

[sheriff_deadeye]

bandaid solution is using silicone imho made in china fittings are a pain for you gotta tighten the snott out them to stop the leaking.

question the leak from threaded part of barb or the part that meets rad tank?

did you try installing tubing without heating it ? posibly that weak solder joint is cracked now from the torquing bung installing hose on barb?

leak was where the 'bolt' portion of the barb meets the rad, not the threads or tubing.

I've run it for a while now with no leak and no silicone was needed.

[lyl]

i really like what you did there

[sheriff_deadeye]

pics are up on the gallery thread

everything is working so far

[Waterlogged]

IIRC, wasn't there a problem with EK barbs not sealing properly on MCR's without a thicker or extra O-Ring?.

[sheriff_deadeye]

XS -
Posted my pics on the gallery and saw WL's feedback:



Can i get some additional input? Has anyone had similar experiences or heard of such failures? Can you confirm the presence of aluminum in the caps on these res's purchased as late as march of this year?

I'm checking and re-checking b/c i'll have to drain the loop and replace the res...not something i was planning on...

thanks

my build...

[Shocker003]

@sheriff_deadeye


My Swiftec micro res. equally ended up this way after 3 months. I was so lucky that i normally control my loop every two months and i was able to avoid a flooding. Using EK res for now and i hope it holds. Take heart, shi--t happens. I presume it´s a material failure which can arise from temperature change.