Desoldering SMD Capacitors

[nfm]

Hi,
I was wondering how do you guys unsolder surface mount capacitors, the ones that sit in plastic framing and have pretty long legs going deep into the center. I tried desoldering using 15W and 30W iron with no success. The solder melts only at the outside.

[nfm]

Looks like nobody knows. My method: wiggle from left to right until it breaks off, worked good on a dead video card, but I will not do it on my prelude. I just soldered caps in parallel:




Panasonic FM series, but 6.3v, 3300uF, I will get 16v next week
The Panny cap did not want to work on lower right capacitor, upper left is good, I will try 16v one.

[largon]

Hello, friend.
I've found that a solder vacuum is a must when desoldering pretty much anything. It shortens the time of total heat exposure thus heat sensitive components don't suffer. Also, a thin blade (I use a surgical 11-blade) might become handy in prying the leg of the PCB.

[nfm]

Much appreciated,
The main idea is to suck away solder away pray of the legs, I have one of these Desoldering Bulb. I suppose it should do the job, if not I will get the vacuum pen. Next week I should get my 8800GT and will recap it with Panasonic FM caps and add extra caps for the 2 phases, should be fun.
Thanks .

[Dr_Swizz]

I use the highest setting on my soldering station. I add a little bit of solder to the leg of the capacitor that I choose to begin with to aid the heat transfer. I then wait a little while to make sure that all solder really has melted. I gently try to insert a needle between the plastic "cap" on the bottom of the capacitor and the circuit board on the same side where I heat the led of the capacitor. At the same time I also press a finger on the side of the capacitor to aid the movement of the needle. If that doesn't work I try to move the capacitor a little bit sideways. After a while alternating between these two techniques one side of the capacitor will become loose and then the rest is really easy.

Do be very careful not to add to much pressure on the body of the capacitor or the needle (let the heat of the soldering iron do the work); If you use too much force the copper traces on the circuit board may get damaged or the connectors break away from the body of the capacitor.

[Pisu87]

First, add more solder on both sides, then start heating the pins alternatively for about half second each and pushing inwards at the same time, not too hard though because we don't want any damaged traces right?

If it doesn't work keep adding solder, you need to be pretty fast switching sides when you heat them because you don't want them to cool down.

When it gets off, use your bulb thing to suck up the solder you've left around. If there is any soldering crap left on the board grab an old toothbrush, get it wet with normal alcohol and scrub the surface around the soldering pads. As soon as you're done dry it out with compressed air, the drying process is important so do an accurate job, the surface should be nice and clean now for yo to solder the new capacitor.

What kind of soldering tip do you have?

[nfm]

I use the highest setting on my soldering station. I add a little bit of solder to the leg of the capacitor that I choose to begin with to aid the heat transfer. I then wait a little while to make sure that all solder really has melted. I gently try to insert a needle between the plastic "cap" on the bottom of the capacitor and the circuit board on the same side where I heat the led of the capacitor. At the same time I also press a finger on the side of the capacitor to aid the movement of the needle. If that doesn't work I try to move the capacitor a little bit sideways. After a while alternating between these two techniques one side of the capacitor will become loose and then the rest is really easy.

Do be very careful not to add to much pressure on the body of the capacitor or the needle (let the heat of the soldering iron do the work); If you use too much force the copper traces on the circuit board may get damaged or the connectors break away from the body of the capacitor.

Awesome, will try on my Pentium 2 board soon as possible, thank you

First, add more solder on both sides, then start heating the pins alternatively for about half second each and pushing inwards at the same time, not too hard though because we don't want any damaged traces right?

If it doesn't work keep adding solder, you need to be pretty fast switching sides when you heat them because you don't want them to cool down.

When it gets off, use your bulb thing to suck up the solder you've left around. If there is any soldering crap left on the board grab an old toothbrush, get it wet with normal alcohol and scrub the surface around the soldering pads. As soon as you're done dry it out with compressed air, the drying process is important so do an accurate job, the surface should be nice and clean now for yo to solder the new capacitor.

What kind of soldering tip do you have?

Thanks man, here's my equipment:

15W | 30W | 100W gun

[Pisu87]

Okay they are normal pointy tips, I think you'd be better off with a spoon tip but if you only need to get the capacitor soldered your tips will do. The spoon tip just makes doing a neat job a lot easier.