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Thread: Cpu Block Chiller

  1. #1
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    Cpu Block Chiller

    Hi everyone, I'm in the process of trying to improve my current watercooling setup so that I can maximize my QX9650 overclock speeds and still maintain close to ambient temperatures as possible for 24/7 use and most importantly minimize things I have to do to achieve this.

    I don't want to do anything extreme to my Mainboard and especially my $1000 CPU like what is required to mount a Tec Peltier setup with all that di-electric grease and having to Air and water seal the cpu socket area.
    And ofcourse spending another $1000 on phase change is not an option either.

    Heres what I am thinking of doing to chill water before it enters my CPU waterblock to achieve better temps.
    I am gonna setup 2 watercooling loops, 1 will just be a normal watercooling setup with a cpu waterblock + reservoir + pump + triple 120mm radiator that is cooling my cpu. But now i want to add a waterblock chiller infront of my existing cpu block using a 226W Tec peltier that is sandwiched between 2 CPU waterblocks.

    The cold side will be attached to the cpu waterblock that is connected to my current watercooling loop and the hot side will be attached to a cpu waterblock that is connected to a separate watercooling loop used solely to cool the Tec peltier. I have a diagram below to show how the whole thing works.

    I have never used a tec peltier before and have never seen anyone use this type of setup before and am curious as to how well this will work and if it is even worth trying. If anyone here have any suggestions or advice I would greatly appreciate your input.

    Oh yea here is a list of things I have and things I would need to buy to set this up.

    Current Watercooling (Loop #2)

    -D-Tek Fuzion V2 (Quad core insert & Water Accelerator Kit) w/ 1/2" D-Tek High Flow Barbs.
    -Danger Den Dual 5.25" Reservoir
    -Swiftech 655 Pump (Laing D5)
    -Feser One X-360 TFC Xchanger Triple 120MM w/ DD 1/2" High Flow Barbs
    -Swiftech MCW30 Chipset waterblock w/ 1/2" DD High Flow Barbs
    -2 x Danger Den Maze 4 GPU Waterblock w/ 1/2" DD High Flow Barbs (SLI)



    Tec Peltier Cooling (Loop #1)
    -Eheim 1250 Pump
    -DTek DB-1 Pump (extra pump)
    -Danger Den Double Heater Core with 2 Fan shrouds, 4 X 120mm Fans in Push - Pull setup.
    -Swiftech Apogee GT Waterblock (Cool the Hot Side of Peltier)
    good performing block to cool the peltier.


    Items I need to buy:

    Loop #2

    - Magicool Copper CPU Water Block (chill water from cold side of Peltier)
    ** I like this block becuase its cheap, and its a big square block with mounting plate that will be easy to attach to the Swiftech Apogee GT plate to sandwich the Peltier with as much pressure I want. It looks very big with alot of surface area for the water to chill before it is pumped into the CPU block.

    Loop #1

    - 2nd reservoir ( I don't know if I should get a Big or small or none at all cuz this is used in the loop that is used to cool the peltier.

    - Power Source ( Should I get a dedicated Meanwell S-320-12 or will a good Enermax 550W with a rated 36A on the 12V rail be good enough to power the 2nd loop and the Peltier unit. I am only powering on the Peltier & loop for the chiller part of the setup when I need that extra cooling when gaming.

    - Tec Peltier Unit. (I don't know anything about Peltiers or how cold and hot they get. I know that I should be getting a 50mm size cuz that is the size of the cpu waterblock surface area. But what will be cold enough and not too hot for my Dual Heater core to handle.

    Also I don't know if using 50/50 antifreeze and water mix for coolant will freeze to ice and block water flow to my CPU block cuz that won't be good cuz I've already fried a motherboard before becuase I kicked loose a waterpump power connector. Funny thing was the mainboard fried from the overheating and the dual core E8400 survived. Anyways thats everything, any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

  2. #2
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    Diagram

    here it is
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
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    i was thinking the same today and i posted a message, nobody answered. i think its a geat idea. did you implemented it? let's cooperate on this project. my message is in the liquid cooling section. i think the idea will work. its alreay been patented. maybe that's why many "cottage industry" watercooling companies don't push it. it will make useless "advanced" waterblocks... two simple blocks will suffice.
    Last edited by dionysio; 09-08-2008 at 06:08 AM.

  4. #4
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    well guys your TEC side is pretty much a CoolIt Freezone unit except the Tec are on the rad

    go look in the TEC section and you will see this config a lot along with quite a few Tec chillers setup's
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    PENT E8400 batch #814A014 ...4.3 at 1.34v~4.7 at 1.45v
    FOXCONN MARS
    COOLIT Eliminator 7*c idle~27~38*c load $95bucks !
    BUFFALO FireStix's ddr2-800 do 1200 eazy at 2.1v
    OCZ 2x2 kit pc2 8500 - 1066 @1069 atm
    Quattro 1000W
    Radeon 2-4850's in crossfire
    OCZ Vertex SSD thanks Tony!
    ALL PIPED INTO HOUSE AIRCOND ;}
    *QUANTUM FORCE* saaya & sham rocks !
    *REAL TEMP*
    At least you've got some Xtreme software now for working in Xtreme situations! "Unclewebb" rocks !
    *MEMSET* Felix rocks !
    *SUPER TEC MAN* UncleJimbo rocks !
    OVERCLOCKERS MAG..http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=197660

  5. #5
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    it seems safe if you take care of condensation. it can also be implementd with a single pump/reservoir. a tee from the pump will feed in both peltier blocks. then each peltier block will feed its own radiator. ofcourse two extra pumps might also be included but the cost will rise...
    Last edited by dionysio; 09-08-2008 at 06:44 AM.

  6. #6
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    that radiator on the cold side loop will do nothing but raise water temp, if you intend to run water at sub ambient.

  7. #7
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    If you dont want to run insulation and not have to worry about condensation then you could run a 1x120 on the "cold" side loop with TEC's that are close to your target wattage, this will actually RAISE the temp of the water at an idle closer to room temp and keep moisture problems to a minimum.

    If you want full blown TEC chiller performance then yo should lose the rad on the "Cold" loop and just TEC's that will support the full load of the CPU. With this setup you will go below the dew point at idle and even load if you have powerful enough TEC's, which will require insulation of the motherboard socket area and the water lines on the "Cold" Loop of the setup.

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