Help a WC noob, why has my fluid turned yellowish/orange.

[Eddie3dfx]

Whoever mentioned water weter is sorely mistaken.
Water wetter is probably the worst product to use in a loop because it severely coats all the components with a film thats impossible to get off.

[xtclocker]

I cleaned the GTX and the pump with rubbing alcohol..the guck cam off. Can't clean the fusion block, can't clean out the rad. System is back together running with distilled water until my ek-blocks arrive...i think I'm going to get a D-tek fusionv2 for the cpu as I don't need any extra flow restriction, I'm going to cool CPU, SB, NB and Mosfets on the one 1/2 tygon loop.

Going to try and flsuh something that clean more powerful than water through the rad...any ideas guys?

Not really sure what can be use beside alcohol. White vinegar or lemon juice might work, for details go to http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=54331 and http://www.doityourself.com/stry/rust. If that won't work, there're others like med. chemicals and soak clean products out there. Go to local cleaning stores to check it out. Good luck!

[Trigger5521]

Ok, the orange color is a dye you used? If not my guess it's a reaction compound between the aluminium rust that had caused the color, and for the sticky part coming from the blocks, it have to be the alumina. That can't be cleaned property since it's already rotting, the only solution is to change a new one or be professional refabricated. I never RMA a water-block before, but I think it's under warranty. Next time avoide aluminium made blocks, especially the non-painted ones.

The Dye I used after the first flush was D-Tek Fluid F/X alien green..the water did not go green let me tell ya. It ended up orange.

See pic. Pure PC + dye should equal glass but I got the Orange at the end LOL.

[Waterlogged]

The Dye I used after the first flush was D-Tek Fluid F/X alien green..the water did not go green let me tell ya. It ended up orange.

See pic. Pure PC + dye should equal glass but I got the Orange at the end LOL.

Well there's your problem! Looks like another case of over dyage.

[xtclocker]

The Dye I used after the first flush was D-Tek Fluid F/X alien green..the water did not go green let me tell ya. It ended up orange.

See pic. Pure PC + dye should equal glass but I got the Orange at the end LOL.

That's an awful color!

[Zaskar]

Seriously, in the center of the pump on the inside, that screw looks like it is actually Rusting, and not just coated in a rust colored gunk.

[Trigger5521]

Seriously, in the center of the pump on the inside, that screw looks like it is actually Rusting, and not just coated in a rust colored gunk.

I'll check that when I take it apart again.

Well there's your problem! Looks like another case of over dyage.

It's not over dyed, It was changing color and building gunk with clear fluid from initial build, when i drained and refilled I added a "bit" of dye. The bottle with the orange fluid is what i took out last night, the flush was only 2 weeks ago.

[Skauneboy]

That's not a screw, it's just a cross-shaped hole in the impeller. So no rust either.

[IanY]

Take your Apogee GTX outside and wash it out with a garden pressure washer. It'll take care of the corrosion and the dye as well. Then soak it in hot distilled water to rinse.

Take that Asus FuSion block and throw it out. It's beyond rescue, and you can't clean it either.

Use a paper towel and clean out your pump first, then use alcohol pads or use isopropyl rubbing alcohol and paper towels to clean your pump well. Take your time and do it thoroughly.

Toss your tubes, they are useless now.

Clean the rest if your blocks as well.

And there are plenty of mobos far more ezpensive than the Asus Striker II Extreme

[slim142]

So wait, I need to know something before I risk my PC like this, will be building water cooling for my S2E this week...
What was the main cause of this?

1) Pure PC
2) D-Tek Liquid F/X
3) Pure PC + D-Tek Liquid F/X
4) Faulty Swiftech CPU Block
5) ASUS Fusion Block
6) Other/Dirty Components/ Faulty components

Could it be the combination of those liquids by any chance? I plan on using Feser Coolant
If there is any chance the responsable is the CPU block, then I would be surprised specially from Swiftech!
If it is the ASUS Fusion block, then I dont understand how many people using Maximus Extreme block never got any problems, as well as the Blitz Extreme block. If it was for any reason, then I guess I would be better changing the heatsink, but I would like to confirm this before spending money on more heatsinks.
If it was because of dirty components, then that would be different. I plan on cleaning mines with a filter and while doing the leak test.

[NaeKuh]

dude why is it that people ignore me?

use acetone on your fusion after you have removed it from the board.
As for the radiator, Once again, USE ACETONE.


Guys DYE is organic on most occations. ACETONE disolves organics.

*sigh*

[Trigger5521]

dude why is it that people ignore me?

use acetone on your fusion after you have removed it from the board.
As for the radiator, Once again, USE ACETONE.


Guys DYE is organic on most occations. ACETONE disolves organics.

*sigh*

Thx...acetone is safe for the rubber o rings?

[Cptn Vortex]

Man that is an ugly mess.....

[Kilyin]

Thx...acetone is safe for the rubber o rings?

No, that's why he said to remove them... in the post where he originally suggested it.

[C'DaleRider]

So wait, I need to know something before I risk my PC like this, will be building water cooling for my S2E this week...
What was the main cause of this?

1) Pure PC
2) D-Tek Liquid F/X
3) Pure PC + D-Tek Liquid F/X
4) Faulty Swiftech CPU Block
5) ASUS Fusion Block
6) Other/Dirty Components/ Faulty components

Could it be the combination of those liquids by any chance? I plan on using Feser Coolant
If there is any chance the responsable is the CPU block, then I would be surprised specially from Swiftech!
If it is the ASUS Fusion block, then I dont understand how many people using Maximus Extreme block never got any problems, as well as the Blitz Extreme block. If it was for any reason, then I guess I would be better changing the heatsink, but I would like to confirm this before spending money on more heatsinks.
If it was because of dirty components, then that would be different. I plan on cleaning mines with a filter and while doing the leak test.

Well, I cannot speak for all the items on your list, but I do have the Primochill Pure PC coolant in my system and have had it running for about 6 months now, along with Feser Black dye added to it.

I removed an EK 3870 full cover block from the loop about a week or so ago....absolutely no gunk whatsoever in the tubing that was removed nor in the EK block.....the block, once drained, was perfectly clean even without rinsing...no gunk, no dye stains, nothing. Looked like new. So I don't think the PC Pure is in any way responsible for the red/orange gunk the OP has growing in his loop.

I did run a GTX cpu block last year wihout any signs of any sort of corrosion, either. And I really doubt the GTX has anything to do with it, either.

On the other hand, since aluminum corrosion isn't red/orange, and after seeing how much sludge has accumulated, I'd almost hazard a guess that, like aigomorla....errr, NaeKuh....said, it almost looks organic in nature. Maybe it's contamination that "infected" the loop at setup, or maybe a reaction between the PC Pure and the D-Tek dye.

[slim142]

Well, I cannot speak for all the items on your list, but I do have the Primochill Pure PC coolant in my system and have had it running for about 6 months now, along with Feser Black dye added to it.

I removed an EK 3870 full cover block from the loop about a week or so ago....absolutely no gunk whatsoever in the tubing that was removed nor in the EK block.....the block, once drained, was perfectly clean even without rinsing...no gunk, no dye stains, nothing. Looked like new. So I don't think the PC Pure is in any way responsible for the red/orange gunk the OP has growing in his loop.

I did run a GTX cpu block last year wihout any signs of any sort of corrosion, either. And I really doubt the GTX has anything to do with it, either.

On the other hand, since aluminum corrosion isn't red/orange, and after seeing how much sludge has accumulated, I'd almost hazard a guess that, like aigomorla....errr, NaeKuh....said, it almost looks organic in nature. Maybe it's contamination that "infected" the loop at setup, or maybe a reaction between the PC Pure and the D-Tek dye.

I see, thats a good explanation. Im almost sure the liquid has something to do in here + the combination of wrong adaptor.

[xtclocker]

Seriously, in the center of the pump on the inside, that screw looks like it is actually Rusting, and not just coated in a rust colored gunk.

Very good point!

[eXa]

Never heard about a D5 rusting tho...

[Xavior]

That's not a screw, it's just a cross-shaped hole in the impeller. So no rust either.

What he said.

[Mekrel]

For the love of god, when will you people learn?

I used to be into all tis fancy dye crap, it does nothing good for your water system.

I now run R3400 black tubing, distilled water and ptnuke - no problems here. Well there is, I'm still getting some globules of blue stuff from my last setup (dye) and it's hard to get rid of fully. So I would recommend never putting dye in your loop from the start.

All that crap in your system was your dye, these dyes are just overloaded to achieve the colour you want.

[SNiiPE_DoGG]

i have dye that works if you use a LITTLE BIT over dyage is the issue.

On my new VGA loop i will be running 1/2" UV sleeve on my tubes it gets you the best of both worlds without seeing: - dye stains -tube clouding - fading uv additive in the dye

[Trigger5521]

Looks like the issue here was a bad GTX aluminum top. These chips and cracks are not supposed to be there, this left the unprotected aluminum exposed to the fluid. The corrision went orange from the D-TEK dye.
Supposed to be getting a new top shipped to me..but I've moved on to the D-TEK fusion v2.

[Trigger5521]

New setup.