Alphacool Laing DDC-Pump 12V Ultra

[malkiewicz]

I have seen more than a fair share of problems with mis-usage of PT Nuke ("is five drops enough, or should I use ten"). Thankfully few people believe in home remedies, otherwise the forum will be full of disasters.

Wow... 5-10 Drops... I only used 2 drops for 2.5L... I can only image the damage if I used more....

Hopefully my disaster helps others avoid mine...

[NaeKuh]

I think it was the rev 1 petra tops that did that.

The alphacool ones were fine - all the dead DDC's were pretty much traceable to petra tops

this is soooo not true....

i can also count for them dying with alphacool tops.

Can you buy the acrylic top for the EK Supreme {I can't believe I am saying this!}

It will help you monitor what's going on with your block.

i so recomended this route, but no one listens to me :P
Also visual inspection of clogged jets is a uber +++++

[IanY]

i so recomended this route, but no one listens to me :P

Listen to you? They don't listen, period

[Waterlogged]

Wow… Now I feel like an idiot… I assumed this block was clear because I didn’t notice any of that sludge before when I looked through the acrylic top… I'm assuming this is what killed my first pump… My second pumps kicking A$$ again now that the sludge is gone…

This stuff looks nasty when you zoom in on it…

....and IanY pokes fun at me for being deathly allergic to tiny holes and slots. Even though I don't use anything outside of Distilled water + No More Algae, I'd still be afraid of this happening in my loop.

Glad you found the problem. Now, while you've got the loop apart, fix that problem with the top as well.

[IanY]

I don't have an EK Supreme myself lol yet lol

I had constant nightmares with my Swiftech Storms. They needed more attention than ten girlfriends put together.

That block needs to be power washed !!!

My recommendation: remove all rubber seals, all delrin, all acrylic. Get some boiling water going and sterilize like baby bottles.

Then take them out, give them the ketchup treatment to polish, then wash again well.

[Waterlogged]

I don't have an EK Supreme myself lol yet lol

I had constant nightmares with my Swiftech Storms. They needed more attention than ten girlfriends put together.

That block needs to be power washed !!!

My recommendation: remove all rubber seals, all delrin, all acrylic. Get some boiling water going and sterilize like baby bottles.

Then take them out, give them the ketchup treatment to polish, then wash again well.

Well, while you were fighting the Storm's, I had similar problems (though nowhere near as bad) with my Asetek Antarctica. I had to clean it out every 4-5 months of similar looking junk.

[NaeKuh]

dammit.. WL

you giving iany all the credit because he funded your last presidental election!?!!?
seriously, acrylic top = no need for block removal for inspection = less time guessing duh, whats wrong with my loop, = happier person in general.


You dont know how long ive been pushing acrylic tops. :T

[IanY]

dammit.. WL

you giving iany all the credit because he funded your last presidental election!?!!?

What election? He got 99.998% of the vote. United Democratic Emirates of Pitaopia. He's a dictator.. and practically a King lol

[Waterlogged]

dammit.. WL

you giving iany all the credit because he funded your last presidental election!?!!?
seriously, acrylic top = no need for block removal for inspection = less time guessing duh, whats wrong with my loop, = happier person in general.


You dont know how long ive been pushing acrylic tops. :T

Yes, what election?

Bah, My Asetek had an acrylic top, couldn't see crap.

What election? He got 99.998% of the vote. United Democratic Emirates of Pitaopia. He's a dictator.. and practically a King lol

Actually, it's Unified Draconian Empire of Pitaopia.....and I am a Demigod.

[mpower1001]

Would it help if I purchased every fluid and additive known to man and did a basic chemical assessment (aka, DON"T MIX THESE) along with testing for temperature efficiency?

That would be great. Thanks

[mpower1001]

Really, please stay away from dye and all that. Its just not worth it.

IanY, I know you said to use pure distilled water only, and i know i should put performance before bling. But i really want to have a little bling in my water loop. I want to use distilled water and a feser uv dye. What kind of problems did you experience using dye?

[IanY]

I not on an anti-bling crusade but it certainly seems that way.

I have only used dye once in my watercooling experience. I only go by my observations from complaints in this forum, and I have been observing many many rigs.

The main issue with dyes is that many people want enough of it to have a UV effect, and when there is not enough of it added, then the UV is not there and the bling urges are not satisfied. Yet, when enough is added, then there's the danger of gunk in the loop. Coatings of that gunk everywhere: on the blocks, on the tubes etc etc

Then there is teh second group of people who ask how to remove the dye coloring from their tubes. That is a certified PITA, and in all likelihood, the tubes need to be replaced. The rads have to be flushed out like crazy not to have the same color effect. Red, being diluted, becomes pink. Residual pink mixed with some new color like green equals some disastrous color combination.

Then, especially for Fesser Dye, there's the issue of color separation. Dye particles float to the top, leaving the top with color and the bottom almost colorless. The powdery particles travel all across the tubes.

Its a nightmare and a half.

The best way around that is to use Fesser colored tubing, if that is your thing.

[mpower1001]

The best way around that is to use Fesser colored tubing, if that is your thing.

Good Idea...Thank You

[Xilikon]

I agree perfectly with IanY. If you want bling, use colored tubing, not dyes... I now use black tubing exclusively with a foray in UV Blue for my incoming HTPC project (not that it matter since there is no window, I just wanted to experiment the tubing to see if it works good as I expected).

[orclev]

The best way around that is to use Fesser colored tubing, if that is your thing.

I've been looking at the clear/UV Blue dye, and from all the pictures I've seen it genuinely is clear under normal light. Looking at the "clear/UV Blue" tubing on the other hand it's sort of a greyish blue under normal light, so obviously it's not really "clear" in any real sense of the word, just slightly transparent. I'm basing this on the pictures Feser has on their own website though, so in person it might not be as bad as it looks. Does anyone have some of this tubing that can either provide some pictures of it in their rig, or attest to the fact of this stuff being clearer than the pictures make it out to be?

[generics_user]

just a side note to almost all ddc-related problems:

read the f***ing manual!

LOOK AT THE MONTING ADVISES:

is there ANY note of anti-vibe stuff or anything else? NO

these pumps are supposed to be mountet directly to BARE METAL

the metal of the case is supposed to be a heatsink so the pump can function properly, if you want to decouple your pump you have to get some proper cooling = heatsinks or fans

about the alphacool top:

there are 2 revisions of these tops, one with a small step at the inled (pointing to the impeller) and one without it

the stepped revision is INCOMPATIBLE with the blue impellers and you have to drill out this step in order to make it compatible

PS: pics of old rev alphacool top and newer zern.at P12 top on their way

[IanY]

Someone had to lay down the law LOL..

What is it about the manual again? LOL Make the font bigger and in capital letters please LOL

[Nickel020]

The manual does not say anything about what material is suitable to mount the pump on...

And a lot of the alleged heat-related deaths are probably to some stupid additives as well, too many people mess around with that stuff without understanding it (i.e. understanding the chemistry involved in mxing stuff).

[generics_user]

The manual does not say anything about what material is suitable to mount the pump on...

And a lot of the alleged heat-related deaths are probably to some stupid additives as well, too many people mess around with that stuff without understanding it (i.e. understanding the chemistry involved in mxing stuff).

it says that you have to mount it directly to the case and i still have to find a PC case made of plastic

but your point is right i'm sure that mixed additives can kill a pump that's why i use either pure distilled water or innovatek additive (for my mixed-metal loop, believe it or not this stuff has prevented corrosion for 1 1/2 year without refilling )

all tests with water dye weren't statisfying at all so i tend to stay away form it