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Thread: 3D Aurora-Zero work log (already finished, hehe :D )

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    3D Aurora-Zero work log (already finished, hehe :D )

    Worklog - 3D Aurora-Zero

    5-07-2008

    Got all the parts from sidewindercomputers.com and some from performance-pcs.com



    D-Tek FuZion CPU Block
    D-Tek Fuzion Nozzle Kit
    12ft. Tygon 1/2 ID 3/8 OD Tubing
    Alphacool 10" Reservoir
    Swiftech MCP655 Waterpump
    HWLABS Black Ice GTX 360 Radiator
    Feser View UV Blue Dye
    Feser Base corrosion Blocker
    Herbie Clips 20pcs
    Scythe Kama Meter
    05-08-2008

    Opened all the boxes and cleaned the parts.

    Rad:


    Res:


    Pump:


    CPU Block (and also a glimpse of the temporary laptop i'll be using for the duration of this build heh )


    CPU Block Surface:


    Triple Distilled Water (that, in the end, I won't be using in the loop, lol)


    Planning on where to put the parts. I thought of putting the pump here inside the HDD cage since 3D Aurora's are not that long.


    This won't work since the tubing will hit the side panel, so I'd just have to put holes on that cage


    05-09-2008

    HDD Cage with holes. Test fit with the motherboard so I can cut the tubing for the other parts


    I love this cpu block it's so shiny


    I thought of mounting it this way, though it looks like it's gonna kink. I also placed the RAM in there so I'd see if it cleared the tubing.


    Hmm..this won't work. Kinks :| (I should'nt have put the clip and the tie yet though, what a waste, lol )


    05-10-2008

    Look closely and see where I goofed up )


    Leak testing for the first time! Used some fans as a "radbox" substitute




    05-11-2008

    I bought 4 generic black case fans to be used as radboxes for the radiator


    Exploring how to unhook a fan to the case.


    There we go, lol




    Starting to rebuild everything


    Cable Management FTW


    05-13-2008

    New radiator fans, yay


    05-14-2008

    Test fit agian. BTW, I chose to scrap the idea of using the modified rad boxes. I used long screws. Looks better for me

    Gonna use this fan controller, salvaged kama meter (hexsolutionsADMIN is a nickname I use in another forums)


    05-19-2008

    Kinda took a break from building. Just been leak testing from the 15th til now.

    1 Liter Distilled Water + half a bottle of feser base on this mix. Had some problems with weird bubbles :|






    05-20-2008

    Drained my loop again. At first, I thought I used too much feser base, so in this next mix, I put in only 25 drops. But alas, same results




    Tried making a test batch of the mix to isolate what was causing the problem. A friend of mine used a different brand of distilled water (wilkins) plus feser base and feser one uv blue dye. No bubbles for him.

    I tried to recreate his mix. Same brand distilled water plus feser base only

    http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/a...5212008052.flv

    BEER ftw!

    Beer with UV dye lol



    05-21-2008

    Noticed some stains on the tube Changed it to prevent it from spreading throughout the loop.




    After I drained and replaced the tubing, I used a distilled water only solutions.
    The bubbles looked completely different with the "beer" mix


    Bought PT-nuke from sir septim08 no bubbles so far.

    05-24-2008

    Final Product!


















    Thanks for viewing everybody !

  2. #2
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    nice and clean...
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    Very nice, only downside is that ugly green gfx pcb I'll never get why they produce anything in that color..
    Playing station: DFI UT X48 T3R @ EK NB // Q6600 @ 3,2GhZ @ True (soon Dtek V1) // 280gtx (soon EK 280gtx) // 2*2GB Gskill 12800 CL7 // Corsair HX1000 // 250GB ES.2 - 160GB T166 - 2*160WD RE // Lian Li V2000B // Swiftech 240+360 - 2*DDC 1
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    Hmm.. maybe an acyrlic cover, then paint it blue or put some blue leds in it or something, haha.

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    nice mate.

    What cam did you use on the final pics?
    Quote Originally Posted by skinnee View Post
    No, I think he had a date tonight...

    He and his EK Supreme are out for a night on the town!

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    my friend's nikon d40

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    Xtremely High Voltage Sparky's Avatar
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    I have the aurora 570... and looking at the painted black insides of your case really makes me want to paint mine! Bare aluminum is just not pretty enough
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    nice radbox, i thought i'll do something like that to my Aurora (moving away from Antec)
    i just need to know how long screws i should use?
    and how many fans should i wreck for a nice fit?
    Last edited by Janno; 06-15-2008 at 02:40 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Janno View Post
    nice radbox, i thought i'll do something like that to my Aurora (moving away from Antec)
    i just need to know how long screws i should use?
    and how many fans should i wreck for a nice fit?
    If you feel like a challenge, do a complete internal loop
    It is possible, I have an MCR320 mounted internally.
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    Very clean!!

    Looks good!


    My WaterCooling project [Cosmos S ''Black Edition'']

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    All those bubbles would have cleared out of the loop after a little run-in time.

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    @mangya

    thank you

    @Helfarch

    had it running from 05-14 to 05-19, the bubbles didn't go away. I think there was something wrong with the feser base or something.

    nice radbox, i thought i'll do something like that to my Aurora (moving away from Antec)
    i just need to know how long screws i should use?
    and how many fans should i wreck for a nice fit?
    The screws i used were three (3) 120mm fans thick. so that would be 28x3mm long screw i think.

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    hex, lolz... told you wilkins distilled with pt nuke cheaper than 3xdistilled...

    first setup with micro bubbles, beer foam, hangover from session last night, hehe...

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    @septim

    yeah, triple distilled was a waste, lol ) We drink wilkins here at home, so I have an unlimited supply (mwahhahaa)

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    Quote Originally Posted by SparkyJJO View Post
    If you feel like a challenge, do a complete internal loop
    It is possible, I have an MCR320 mounted internally.
    i could try, but the thermochill is a thick bastard

    @InfinityNX, thanks swiftech radbox just got pwnt
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    haha, yeah. who needs a radbox when you have a generic 2.50$ fan

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    Nice build.

    Heh, yeah I did the exact same thing when I first mounted my block. (your 'look closely and see where I goofed up' picture)

    I had the water flowing into the "out" port and out of the "in" port on the Fusion. Of course, I had actually mounted the block and
    had it running for a few days before my brain registered the fact that I had it backwards.

    (Actually, it didn't really make a huge difference to my temps when I corrected it. About 2c at full-load, although it did seem to alter the
    cooling pattern...the temp difference between my cores evened out some...).

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    thanks!

    Yeah, since the in-port is directed to the middle of the block where the cores usually resides, it should make some difference when it comes to core temps.

    But i think you misunderstood the pic i posted, if you look at it again, you'll see that I sort of "locked" the mounting bracket on the tube from the outlet of the cpu block to the res, haha.

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    nice!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Janno View Post
    i could try, but the thermochill is a thick bastard

    @InfinityNX, thanks swiftech radbox just got pwnt
    Oh, yes it is. I have the MCR320, fits well, but a thermochill is a tad on the thick side to squeeze in there.
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    @sparky

    can i see a pic of how you mounted a 320 inside the aurora? i've been trying to look for water cooled 3daurora's in the water cooled case gallery, but to no avail.

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    Sure. These pics are a year old, from when I first did it, but it really hasn't changed, just a few tubes are now shorter and my motherboard/CPU/RAM are different but that doesn't matter here.

    Don't mind the missing screws in the first pic, I didn't buy enough the first time around. The last pic shows what I did with the PSU relocation. If I were to do it again I'd move the PSU hole over to the left a tad, where it is the screws are right up against the edge of the side panel. The old PSU hole now has a black mesh in it.



    Last edited by Sparky; 06-16-2008 at 04:40 PM.
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    hmm nice idea remounting the power supply. though i'm not sure it'll fit my aurora since i'm using the older one, haha.

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    measure it twice, cut it once... also cheap aluminum angle bars for supporting PSU weight...

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