Project: LucentTide - V1000 LC Build

[lyl]

a very clean desk you have there. i envy that...

nice sleeving, how long a roll did you buy, my guest its more than 50ft, hehehe...

ty.

well i bought 50ft of 1/8" for sleeving 2 ATX extenders (a good amt left over), and the crappy crappy sleeving kit, that had 10ft of 1/8", 1/4", and 5ft of 1/2" and 1".

the heatshrink that came withe kit was 9mm, 20mm, and 25mm... the poor quality 9mm doesnt shrink well over 1/8" X_X. I used 1/8" shrink on the atx extender

[emoners]

damn wish i was good at sleeving...really having a hard time doing the 20+4 pin cable

lyl, you should get that case windowed...it be too bad not to see your work without opening the panel

[lyl]

damn wish i was good at sleeving...really having a hard time doing the 20+4 pin cable

lyl, you should get that case windowed...it be too bad not to see your work without opening the panel

Yeah, i plan on cutting a window for it. I am trying to find a way to get a cleaner cut than my dremel at the moment. But if all else fails... ill chop 'er up

[Arni]

I had that same idea nice job

[skinnee]

nice. more pics please...

skinnee thats a hard drive bay, can be found on PPCs' Lian Li Section...
also available 3slot 4 hard drives EX-34N...

As septim said its a HDD bay for 5.25 slots. Takes up 2 bays, holds 3 hard drives.

Heres where i got mine
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/61...oling_Kit.html

Thanks!

[septim]

clean cut window, drill pilot hole, enlarge with dremel till a metal hacksaw 24teeth fits it, hacksaw away to other pilot hole, then file em smooth and attach plexi window via several botton head/acorn head screws&nuts... admire!...

[lyl]

Good news is the HDD (EX-23N) expansion bay came in (pics below)

Bad news is... I really jumped the gun on buying it because I realized a (very very obvious) way to mount the hard drives.

I'll explain the rest w/ pics+captions:


my order (ATX connectors are for my sleeved extender)


unboxing


sorry for the nasty flash

my initial concern with the EX-23N is that it was going to be too long for my likings


i was right -- i dont really like how it sticks out into the center of the case. I am going for a really clean look here.


But it matches perfectly with the rest of the mesh.


OK, heres the easier method i realized WHILE trying out the EX23. Just turn the one of the original HDD cages 90 degrees....
Note: the EX23 helps keep the hose on the outlet of the pump from kinking; kinda neat


DUH
Im thinkin a nice piece of alum between the res and the cage will give a really clean look


I dont completely regret ordering it... I bet i can do something nice with just the front piece of the bay. Here it could cover up the PSU and wires coming out of it ^^ Just an idea, but i like...

=======================================

Ok so i have 2 ways i could potentially mount my drives, not too sure which way im going to take. Most likely going to use the original cage, and 'stealth' it with some pieces of aluminum.

Gimmy some feedback XS!

[lyl]

different camera for the rest of the build

[Lagaaja]

Subscribed. Nice work.

[jorge_metal0]

excellet work with that sleeving... I guess you spend a lot of time doing that, wich size of cable sleeve did you use?

thanks and sorry for my english

[lyl]

I used 1/8" sleeving w/ 1/8" shrink. The shrink was a bit small, and i had to stretch it bit to get it on.

Its not extremely time consuming, you'd be surprised. I suggest cutting all sleeving/shrink beforehand.

[lyl]

before






comparison



after



resistors are 10k ohm, 1/4W

[fadetoblack]

Sorry, i didnt take a bunch of pics during the process as i planned, I didnt have my camera at the time

I cut the top with a Dremel and Reinforced Cutting Disks (dont skimp out on the disks... other cutting disks will break very often -- ie. flying shrapnel). I used about 2 disks total (none broke, just got too small to use)

I used the template provided with the AC Ryan Radgrill.

The cutting was fairly easy, mostly due to the soft nature of aluminum. Cutting ON the lines of the template, otherwise youll be able to see edge of your cut when the grill is installed. As everyone says, go slow, let the dremel do the work. Dont apply too much pressure either.

My method for cutting a line was to lightly cut into the metal for the wholbre length of the cut, then going over it multiple time until i completely cut through. Dont try to get your dremel through the metal, then move it down the line. Youll loose a lot of control of your cut, and not to mention break a lot of disks and put a ton of stress on your Dremel.

Also, i cant stress this enough, make sure the holes on the rad fit the ones on the rad grill before using the radgrill's template for screw holes! I made this mistake, and realized that 4 (one fan's worth) of holes were about 1mm too far away. I had already drilled the holes in the case, and had to enlarge them. (not a biggy because they are covered by the grill anyway).

Hope this helps

im actually also cutting my top panel right now (also aluminum) using a dremel and the reinforced cutting wheel. except it's taking me ages.. what rpm did you run at when cutting? maybe im not putting enough force. at this rate ill be done by tomorrow morning..

[CCC]

[QUOTE=lyl;3061528]different camera for the rest of the build




i did all my sleeving on the molex and sata connectors but i cant for the life of me get the pins out of the 24pin atx connector.. i have the sunbeam tool kit which includes tools just like you showed earlier but i cant get them out..

any tips on how you got the pins ouf of the 24pin atx connector??

thanks
CCC

[lyl]

im actually also cutting my top panel right now (also aluminum) using a dremel and the reinforced cutting wheel. except it's taking me ages.. what rpm did you run at when cutting? maybe im not putting enough force. at this rate ill be done by tomorrow morning..

i would run around 7-9. shouldnt take too long to get through the metal...

i did all my sleeving on the molex and sata connectors but i cant for the life of me get the pins out of the 24pin atx connector.. i have the sunbeam tool kit which includes tools just like you showed earlier but i cant get them out..

any tips on how you got the pins ouf of the 24pin atx connector??

thanks
CCC

oh man.. i was so confused when i first tried this too. the tool you want to use looks like the bottom one in this pic.



ok, so from the front of the connector, get both of the tool's tips between the edges of the metal pin and plastic housing. give it a little push, youll feel the pin move back... almost a click.
make sure one of the tips isnt inside the pin.

youll see when you get the pins out, that you are just folding two 'wings' on the pin that prevent it from coming out the back.

try googling it, there are probably some good guides/pics


Build news:
Rheobus finished! PC is up and running. pics soon

[manyga]

Very nice Sleeving!!

regards!!

[Waterlogged]

im actually also cutting my top panel right now (also aluminum) using a dremel and the reinforced cutting wheel. except it's taking me ages.. what rpm did you run at when cutting? maybe im not putting enough force. at this rate ill be done by tomorrow morning..

Full RPM's, don't apply any pressure, let the wheel do the cutting.

[lyl]

Here are some pics of me making the rheobus faceplate.

LED holes need some touching up. Ill post better pics of the finished project when i'm satisfied w/ it.








and a few more pics of the loop. (lighting is 1 white CCL)





getting a new PSU, so dont mind the random wires

[b@llz0r]

im sure there is a good reason for it, but why did you solder resisters in?

[lyl]

im sure there is a good reason for it, but why did you solder resisters in?

to dim the LED's. they were WAY too bright (it hurt to look at them).

I just wanted a color indication that a channel was on... not a spotlight!

[emoners]

getting a new PSU, so dont mind the random wires

so does that mean you have to re-do the sleeving?

[lyl]

so does that mean you have to re-do the sleeving?

Nope, none of the sleeving i've done so far was to the PSU...

Ill probably be getting a Corsair 620HX which has nice looking all black cables+connectors

Pic here: http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggIma...139-002-09.jpg

[SGwillis]

any ideas how the front logo (e.g. the rebranded logo on your pc) comes out ? im in a similar situation where i want to replace it with a blanking plate and drill holes to match the rest of the holes on the front of the case

[lyl]

ive seen it done, but i am not sure the best way to get the thing off without

[lyl]

4870!