Teybers Evap

[teyber]

hello!

Have been toying lots of ideas around in my head lately. Came down that the simplest mounting that i had would be the cheapest and the most effective. Prices of mounting used to be unrealistically high until i had a epiphany of simple, due to extremely long machining times on the more complex mountings.Today had some time after my AP test, so i started the mounting. I want to do a small run of 5 evaporators this time, as it saves a lot of time to do a couple at the same time. Ill be posting how everything fits together at the end.

Waiting on a new band saw blade until i do the evaporators, and also waiting on the evaporators done until i cut the insulation donut, but have the donut insulation here.

So ill post what i have so far:




4) 10-32 plastic thumbscrews(may be replaced with smaller ones)
4) 10-32 machine nuts(may be replaced with black plastic ones)
4) 1/2" springs (in mail)
1) 2.5" or so 5/16" copper stub for suction
1) 1.5" or so 3/16" copper stub for cap tube
1) Mounting plate
1) donut insulation, goes around evaporator
1) snap ring for hold down
1) small circle of neoprene for between evaporator and top of mounting.

Not sure about motherboard insulation yet. don't' have a good price on anything at the moment.

Will be re-doing backplates in aluminum. I ordered the wrong size plastic for backplates, and only fit lga775, and barely at that.

Will be finalizing design of the evaporator in the coming days.

Hope you like it

regards

[{.bLanK} GoD]

Not bad.
Might I advise you replace the plastic screws with metal, preferably SS.
Tiny wee plastic screws will get cold and snap like a dry twig.

[ruffus]

i like but same idea use metal screws but i will still have to get one of these for my next system so i will be talking to you soon

[boshuter]

Very good looking mounts.... but, you need to replace the 10-32 screws/bolts with 6-32, that is the largest size that will fit through the holes in a MB. I found that out the hard way.... I replaced the mounting bolts for my cpu pot with 8-32 bolts and had to end up drilling out the holes in my mb for them to fit A very scary thing to do.

And like everyone else said... use metal bolts.

[Jack]

The thing is, plastic has a low Young's modulus, which means that it deforms easily. You don't want that because then they will come loose and you will have to re-tighten them every once in a while.

[one_servant]

Good looking evaps man! We may be making a trade sometime soon. I'll shoot you a PM when the time comes.

[n00b 0f l337]

Yeah I have a concern also in icing up on the mounts, via transfer through the snap ring. Polyethylene's good but what about the immediate evap facility.

[teyber]

thanks everybody!

yeah ill be testing with the plastic screws, but will order metal ones soon along with some insulation things.

boshuter: :O i would not have felt comfortable doing that...
(EDITED THIS PART DUE TO MENTAL RETARDATION)
ill try to order those screws this weekend.
Ran into a problem today. THIS is why i like to cad most of my stuff out before i get to far in a build, saves me a lot of time/money even though cad-ing something seems endless and sometimes pointless...

there is not enough clearance on top of the snap ring... what this means is that it will sandwich the evap rather then hold it down... sorry kind of hard to explain. Luckily there are 2 easy solutions

1) bore a hole about the diameter of the outside of the snapring 1/8" deep
2) use a polyethylene pipe

I will try to do 3-4 with the boring and 1 with the pipe. Ill keep you guys updated.


Also i finalized the new maze evap yesterday, Don't want to post drawings of it in public yet but if your interested at all just shoot me a PM.

regards

[teyber]

Fixed mountings tonight. One got messed up earlier, wouldn't have made a difference but with new design didn't work. so 4 of em now. (didn't have mounting tightened down enough, and it "slid" which made it sort of an elipse)

Hope you like it,

regards

edit:

this stuff has a tendency to peel when being milled, please disregard that edge that will be taken down with sandpaper...

[teyber]

will be trying to finish milling the tops today, but can't finish them till my bandsaw blade comes

btw nol: the snapring will be insulated by the donut

[n00b 0f l337]

Tey, now the mount cannot rotate freely though.

[teyber]

lol :P

its got 1/4" of play... but im thinking about grinding down the edge of the snap ring on the grinder.

btw go on msn please

[n00b 0f l337]

Can't not at home

[DagoDuck]

What about the electronic components around the CPU socket? IMHO not the best solution.

[n00b 0f l337]

How are they in any different position then with other mounts?

[boshuter]

What about the electronic components around the CPU socket? IMHO not the best solution.

I think (or hope) the snap ring is at the top of the evap.

The aluminum backplates is a very good idea, one thing I'd like is to have studs instead of bolts; You could screw the studs into the backplate and then a board wouldn't have to be removed from a case to swap cpu's. Even on a bench setup bolts are a PITA to deal with.

Only problem I see is like Adam pointed out earlier, you are going to get condensation where the mount contacts the snap ring and evap.

[teyber]

dagoduck: i don't think this will be a problem. There will be heavy insulation around the evap, and also the mounting shouldn't be touching the evap. I will be using these rods of neoprene that mcmaster has that are like 3$ for 10 of them, and will put it on top of evap with a hole for suction. then it will go to the edge of snapring...

boshuter: what do you mean studs?

not sure what to do about it not rotating :P maybe just bore another hole, maybe ill try plan B and do 2 of each plan. will work 2maro after i write an 8 page paper

regards

[Planet]

He means making the backplate threaded. That way you dont hafta take the board out every time you remount. Then you just put screws through the top down through the board and then screw into the threaded backplate. Kinda how the ln2/dry ice setups are.

[A/\/\/\C]

You Try hard mate i hope you work it out.
why dont you notch the actual copper evaps and made recesses in the enclosure that lock in place so eliminating a snap ring or any condensate, also those plastic mounts could become brittle when cold and the aluminium backplates are how i blew my evga 780i mobo it grounded when tightend down touchin a rather long capacitor leg so i only use foamalux backplates now.
Also i sqaure of 4 panhead bolts so they fit into sqaures on my backplates so they dont turn that way i dont have to remove the board on cpu change

[boshuter]

He means making the backplate threaded. That way you dont hafta take the board out every time you remount. Then you just put screws through the top down through the board and then screw into the threaded backplate. Kinda how the ln2/dry ice setups are.

Exactly... I use the same backplate when I mount a phase unit as I use with my dice/ln2 pot, only the studs stay in the backplate, I just put them through from the back side; Then all I have to do is slide the evap/pot mount down and install the springs/thumbscrews.

The main reason I use that backplate is because it's made of aluminum and won't flex, I like to use a lot of mounting pressure and a backplate made of anything but metal has to be too thick to prevent the board from bowing too much.

[teyber]

ah gotcha, thanks jake
A/\/\/\C: thanks! because i want to make the mountings removable. i have done 3 successful mountings that are removable and are intricately made, but they cost to much and take to long to make. mountings and all that stuff costs almost as much as the evap itself sorry to hear about your 780, was there insulation? why would it have touched your board?

thats why i wanted to try these mountings, very simple. i had the idea to fix the rotating, snaprings are very cheap. i will just include 2 snaprings, one normal and the other ground down. this way if it doesn't rotate i can just swap the snap ring easily.

boshuter: ah thanks for the idea. i also like tight mountings

I hope to finish the mountings and the tops of the evaps today.

regards

[[XC] 2long4u]

Reed just machine the snap ring groove all the way around so you will be able to rotate it, instead of the little section you cut out.

[teyber]

hey!

yeah im pretty dumb. the snap ring can rotate around the evap, no need for that :P i machined the groove rather then bore a larger hole to keep the evap from having a lot of "play"... but either way works.

I am ordering the copper for these evaps 2maro along with some metal for my case. Ill be keeping you guys updated. just waiting on bandsaw blade...

regards

[teyber]

ordered the copper today for the evaps... also got bandsaw blade in mail today.

Ill keep you guys updated.

regards

[teyber]

finally my copper came in mail! its a impressive hunk of metal... ill post a picture of it soon. So ill let the pics speak for themselves




cacade base? :P


Very pleased with em... liquid drops around core area, so lots of capacity around core, yet finishes in center for easy mount and center suction... im no thermodynamics expert like soddemFX, but i think this should perform well.

The bottum part of evap(shown) will be .45", base is .2"...

regards