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Thread: G1/4 Mod For D5 1/2" & 3/8" Barbs

  1. #1
    Xtreme Addict coolmiester's Avatar
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    G1/4 Mod For D5 1/2" & 3/8" Barbs

    G1/4 Mod For D5 1/2" & 3/8" Barbs

    This mod was instigated by BP-Vincent at Bitspower so all credit to him

    Very similar to a previous guide Tapping and Threading a G1/4 Hole but thought i would do a run through with the D5 to give a better idea of how it looks in practice.

    Hopefully this simple guide will explain the tools required and how best to tackle the job.

    Tools Required:
    Electric Drill
    Hack Saw
    11.8mm HSS Drill Bit
    1/4" BSP 19 TPI Second or Plug Tap
    Wrench
    400 Grit Wet & Dry

    First of all you need to disassemble the D5 by unscrewing the front barb assembly from the pump itself and you also want to remove the pump bracket to make the job much easier.

    Once you have the front off you need to cut the existing barbs off down to the Red line indicated in the picture below. You want to get this as precise as possible as this is where the rubber "O" ring of the barb will be seated so it needs to be as flush as possible. Don't worry if you're slightly off as you can always straighten things out with some 400 Grit Wet n Dry on a flat surface the way you would lap a water block base.

    Once you're happy you have the existing barbs removed and flush you need to take a 11.8mm Drill and ream out both the inlet and outlet of the pump and its best to have the part clamped in some way as you need to keep the drill hole as accurate as possible or even better using a pillar drill. You will find the pump material drills really easy and i found i didn't need any lubricating at all but feel free to use it if preferred.

    Now you have the 11.8mm hole, take your G1/4 Tap and basically start screwing it into the hole you have just drilled. Its paramount at this stage that you offer the Tap up to the hole perfectly vertical at 90 degrees to the surface otherwise you could end up with the thread running off and the barb not fitting flush resulting in leakage.

    Keeping the Tap lined up correctly you can start Tapping the hole by turning the Tap half a turn clockwise followed by quarter turn anti-clockwise which allows the swarf to be released from the threads keeping the cutting edges of the Tap free to make cutting much easier – the process of half a turn clockwise followed by quarter turn anti-clockwise should be carried through till the Tapping process is finished. Again i found no lube was necessary but feel free to use it if preferred.

    Its just a case of cleaning up, especially if you used any type of cutting lubrication and reassemble the pump and you're good to go.

    The pictures below are first using 1/2" Danger Den Stubby barbs then the complete pump i used D-Tek Hi-Flow as the "O" ring stands less chance of popping out due to the recess "O" ring grove.


















  2. #2
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    Nice job Coolmiester!

  3. #3
    Xtreme Member Tw1st3d's Avatar
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    Nice mod - looks fairly easy to do

    I would say sticky!
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  4. #4
    Xtreme Mentor Eddie3dfx's Avatar
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    What size tap would you need for the 3/8" barb?
    btw I will be doing this! I can't believe nobody posted this before, thanks!
    Last edited by Eddie3dfx; 03-01-2008 at 07:11 AM.
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    Perfect job, coolmiester ...You help me a lot....

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    Xtreme X.I.P. Martinm210's Avatar
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    Awesome work!

    On my long list of to dos is exactly that, then I would have the ability to tinker with smaller inlet nozzles. I could then machine a series of custom G1/4 barbs with various nicely tapered and extended inlet nozzles to run some tests on.

    I'm pretty sure now, you can make the D5 a really good pressure pump with a smaller inlet, just need to do some experimenting. I figured a combination of a nozzled inlet and cleaning up the outlet is key in performance.

    That looks really sharp!! Never like the looks of the plastic barbs.

  7. #7
    Banned Pete's Avatar
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    Nice one Paul, i think i will try and do the porting mod on mine this week then maybe get you to mod the top for the G1/4'' and give ya few beers if ya intrested at all

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    Unoriginal Macho Energy nikhsub1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

    I'm pretty sure now, you can make the D5 a really good pressure pump with a smaller inlet, just need to do some experimenting. I figured a combination of a nozzled inlet and cleaning up the outlet is key in performance.

    That looks really sharp!! Never like the looks of the plastic barbs.
    Wow I do like this mod! Martin, I think you have it backwards though... The key is to narrow the OUTLET, not the inlet, although experiment both ways. Most high pressure pumps have a larger inlet and a narrow outlet, RD-30 is a very good example.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddie3dfx View Post
    What size tap would you need for the 3/8" barb?
    btw I will be doing this! I can't believe nobody posted this before, thanks!
    You mean G3/8" or 3/8" ID tubing barb ? If it is the latter, it use the same G1/4" threading so basically the same tap and drill as outlined here.

    Great guide, I knew it's that easy but it's essential to take your time to make things perfect so the o-ring sit flat.

  10. #10
    Xtreme X.I.P. Martinm210's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nikhsub1 View Post
    Wow I do like this mod! Martin, I think you have it backwards though... The key is to narrow the OUTLET, not the inlet, although experiment both ways. Most high pressure pumps have a larger inlet and a narrow outlet, RD-30 is a very good example.
    Interesting, I havn't done much experimenting, but way back I did try some nozzles on the inlet and outlet of a D5 and found that at least for maximum pressure head, a smaller inlet helped maximum pressure, but a smaller outlet had no effect at all.

    Alot of the inlet size probably depends on the impeller inlet. Only way to know is try it. I figure if you do this mod and you're just experiementing with different custom barbs, there's no risk in ruining anything. Doesn't work...throw away that nozzle. From all the DDC3.2 top testing and examining, the smaller inlet tops generally did better in pressure than the others with larger inlets. Similar thing with the Alphacool top, switch over to the side nozzle and add some restriction at the inlet, and th curve shifts to the left. The DDC does have a pretty small impeller inlet though...

    I think the D5 has too large of a volute with the stock top, so you'll probably never get really good pressure out of it without a whole new top, but never hurts to try and see..

  11. #11
    Xtreme Member Meatpuppet's Avatar
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    Coolermeister, I never expected this level of a response when I mentioned that I was really interested in your results from trying BP's mod. Thanks a bunch for the effort.
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    I am Xtreme Waterlogged's Avatar
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    Heh, looks like I was ahead of the curve yet again.

    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...6&postcount=44

    Full thread: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=150733

    I had thought about this for about a year prior to asking the question, just couldn't bring myself to spend the money to find out, as I have no use for a 1/2" barbed pump.
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    Xtreme Addict coolmiester's Avatar
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    NP Meatpuppet - this is what the forum is all about

    I have a few Laing D5 tops from various other projects including a few of the Norvl 1/2" OD which i thought i would try the mod out on first but on closer inspection i found the inlet and outlet to be 13.3mm which would be perfect for a G3/8 barb where as the normal D5 is 10mm.

    I've no clue whether this would be beneficial or detrimental to the performance gained in a watercooling situation but Laing obviously do it for some reason and its got to be worth further investigation imo (shouts of Martin for help )


  14. #14
    Xtreme Member madmaxx's Avatar
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    excellent mod guys!

    thanx for sharing, id really like to see some #'s on these to see if they increase performance of the pump as well

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    Xtreme Mentor Eddie3dfx's Avatar
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    G3/8" but of course!
    better yet, 9/16 that dd uses
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    Xtreme Addict coolmiester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddie3dfx View Post
    G3/8" but of course!
    better yet, 9/16 that dd uses
    No no mate, Danger Den only used 9/16" a couple of years back in their transition period between 1/4" NPT to what they use now, G1/4

    9/16" was a strange size to go for imo and had us all confused for a while and was a nightmare when people were trying to replace barbs for their previous blocks

  17. #17
    Xtreme X.I.P. Martinm210's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolmiester View Post
    NP Meatpuppet - this is what the forum is all about

    I have a few Laing D5 tops from various other projects including a few of the Norvl 1/2" OD which i thought i would try the mod out on first but on closer inspection i found the inlet and outlet to be 13.3mm which would be perfect for a G3/8 barb where as the normal D5 is 10mm.

    I've no clue whether this would be beneficial or detrimental to the performance gained in a watercooling situation but Laing obviously do it for some reason and its got to be worth further investigation imo (shouts of Martin for help )

    Cool, you're the first one I've seen with the noval top apart

    According to Laing's charts the larger threaded top is supposed to be a little stronger in the 1.5GPM range, so overall it should do better.

    I didn't expect to the inlet being that large though. Wow!

    I had actually recommended to swiftech many many months ago that they offer these threaded top instead of the 1/2" hosebarb top, but they never responded.

    Sure, I'd be interested after I get caught up. Have to wrap up the parts I have on hand now, then I wouldn't mind tinkering with the D5 again.

    If nobody starts producing a top, I might even be force to buy a Koolance D5 top, just to see if it does anything.

  18. #18
    Xtreme Addict coolmiester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
    Cool, you're the first one I've seen with the noval top apart

    According to Laing's charts the larger threaded top is supposed to be a little stronger in the 1.5GPM range, so overall it should do better.

    I didn't expect to the inlet being that large though. Wow!

    I had actually recommended to swiftech many many months ago that they offer these threaded top instead of the 1/2" hosebarb top, but they never responded.

    Sure, I'd be interested after I get caught up. Have to wrap up the parts I have on hand now, then I wouldn't mind tinkering with the D5 again.

    If nobody starts producing a top, I might even be force to buy a Koolance D5 top, just to see if it does anything.:D
    Hahahaa, i just had to email Koolance yesterday to get a couple of their D5 tops shipped over as i can't get my hands on any in the UK but still waiting to hear back.

    Having said that i'm going to have a word at the machine shop tomorrow to see if they can mod all the D5's i have here.

    Certainly be interesting to see the difference the bigger Norvl top would add to the mix.

  19. #19
    Xtreme Member madmaxx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
    According to Laing's charts the larger threaded top is supposed to be a little stronger in the 1.5GPM range, so overall it should do better.

    I didn't expect to the inlet being that large though. Wow!
    does this mean there could be some benefit to porting the inlet on the regular tops as well?
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  20. #20
    Xtreme Enthusiast karbonkid's Avatar
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    Great guide, coolmeister!

    P.S. you might want to check your sig

  21. #21
    Xtreme Addict coolmiester's Avatar
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    Cheers karbon, sig fixed

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    Xtreme Cruncher GAM's Avatar
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    Great work Coolmiester! I'll definitely have to look at this mod myself.

    Cheers
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    Last edited by GAM; 03-05-2008 at 11:11 AM.

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