My first W/C Setup

[ChaosAD]

Well hello everyone.I have been reading this thread for quite a long time now.Have learned a couple of things from u guyz and i thank u all for this.

When i first completed the system u can see in my sig i said that aircooling is all i ll ever need.What is the meaning of running a watercooling system?None, replied to myself. Two months after reading this forum i changed my mind and decided to enter the w/c side.So as u can clearly understand u r nothing but bad influence

Enough talking...the parts i think to include in my setup are the following:

D-Tek Fuzion Intel 775 Quick Mount Brack
D-Tek Waterblock Fuzion for CPU
D-Tek Fuzion Nozzie Kit
Swiftech MCP655 12V
ThermochillRadiator PA 120.3
EK WaterblocksReservoir Multioption 250
Tubing Tygon R3603 19.1/12.7 Transparent (1m)
Artic Silver 5 (3.5g)

The questions i have are the following:

1) D-Tek Fuzion Intel 775 Quick Mount Brack. Is it good or shall i choose the Thermalright one instead?

2) D-tek Fuzion. I guess that currently is the best cpu block i can buy. Do u recommend anything else? Does it work with the same efficiency on both Quads and Duals?

3) Swiftech MCP655 12V. Either this or Laing D5. Dont have any other option for the moment. As far as i know these are the same right? So i ll go for the Swiftech which is a tad cheaper.

3) About the rad. I ll run a cpu only loop for the moment and maybe the N/B. Do u think its too big? Do u think i should go for the 120.2 instead? Will there be any difference at idle/load if i run Quad @ 3.8 @ 1.55 for example?

4) Tubing Tygon R3603 19.1/12.7. Is it ok for my setup. I have NO clue about what tubing i shall use

5) Artic Silver 5. I would like to go with MX-2 but i dont seem to find it anywhere. Is there any noticable diffrence? Not that it really matter if i cant get it but just to have a clue.

Thats all for the moment i guess. If u have to comment/add/change/remove anything i will be glad to hear from u.

And to be honest u putted me into trouble u have to get me out.

[FuriousSalesman]

I'm not much of an expert, but I believe that some may recommend the D-Tek Pro Mount Kit instead of the Quick Mount.



As for MX-2, I got mine from Petra's Tech Shop.

[zlojack]

That's almost the same ingredient list that I'm looking at.

I'll be interested to see what you do! Good luck man!

[ChaosAD]

I'm not much of an expert, but I believe that some may recommend the D-Tek Pro Mount Kit instead of the Quick Mount.



As for MX-2, I got mine from Petra's Tech Shop.

I live in Greece so my option are kind of limited. Since i cant find the pro mount kit, shall i go for the thermalright one instead of the d-tek quick mount?

[Typhon]

Hi ChaosAD,

For the pump, I would recommend the vario version, this will allow you to control the flow and assist during loop bleeding. You can't go wrong with either the Swiftech or the Liang.

For the tubing, I prefer the Tygon 3606 1/2" i.d. 3/4" o.d.,@ 1 meter you'd be cutting yourself short, no pun intended, buy 2 meters.

I've been happy with Artic Silver 5 for many years.

Sepultura is one of my favorite Death Metal bands next to Therion.

Typhon

[ChaosAD]

Hi ChaosAD,

For the pump, I would recommend the vario version, this will allow you to control the flow and assist during loop bleeding. You can't go wrong with either the Swiftech or the Liang.

For the tubing, I prefer the Tygon 3606 1/2" i.d. 3/4" o.d.,@ 1 meter you'd be cutting yourself short, no pun intended, buy 2 meters.

I've been happy with Artic Silver 5 for many years.

Sepultura is one of my favorite Death Metal bands next to Therion.

Typhon

Is the difference between the vario version and the non one so important?I dont think that i can get the vario one thats why i ask.

As for the tubing. For the moment Tygon R3603 19.1/12.7 is the only tubing i can get.Isnt it good for the setup?Btw what's the meaning of 19.1/12.7?

[Shadowtester]

I think the 19.1/12.7 are od/id measurements in mm using 25.4mm/in as a conversion factor the 19.1 od would be 3/4" and the 12.7 id would be 1/2" Metric system vs American/English

[Kosior]

2) I don't really know if Fuzion is the best but it is a really good one. Performance should be the same on botch quad and dual cores

3) They're both the same pumps. I think Swiftech would be better as it's cheaper. But beware of Swiftech MCP655-B as it's a basic version - worse.

4) Diffrence depends on the heat load. I think PA120.2 should be enough but if you can go for the bigger one, do it - it's better to have some performance reserves I think :P

5) My suggest is Collaboratory Liquid Pro. If you could find it you'll get like 5 degree cooler than with Artic Silver 5

Is the difference between the vario version and the non one so important?I dont think that i can get the vario one thats why i ask.

The diffrence is quite a big one. Non Vario (Basic) runs at 4th gear while you can turn the Vario on the 5th gear - in your setup the difference will be like 0.27gpm and 1.02 PSI according to the Martin's Flow Estimator

[smee]

Go with the thermalright mount! It works swell!

[ChaosAD]

They're both the same pumps. I think Swiftech would be better as it's cheaper. But beware of Swiftech MCP655-B as it's a basic version - worse.

The diffrence is quite a big one. Non Vario (Basic) runs at 4th gear while you can turn the Vario on the 5th gear - in your setup the difference will be like 0.27gpm and 1.02 PSI according to the Martin's Flow Estimator

I cant really undarstand the 0.27gpm and 1.02 PSI that u point out in term of performance but if u say that the difference is a big one then i have to hear what u say. Btw the pump i m talking about is this http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...product=943428

My suggest is Collaboratory Liquid Pro. If you could find it you'll get like 5 degree cooler than with Artic Silver 5

Isn't the Liquid Pro the one i heard that after a long time of using has the ability to stick the cpu with the block? I wouldn't like something like this to happen. Pleaze verify this because Collaboratory Liquid Pro is a thermal paste i can find.


And i have one more question: I can buy EK Waterblocks Reservoir Multioption 150, Multioption 250 and Multioption 400. Except from the obvious difference of the water capacity is there any other difference that is worth pointing? Is bigger the better when we compare reservoirs?

[Ganki]

not sure if this has been mentioned, but sometimes the t/c rads don't come with fittings, u may need to get barbs.

[Kosior]

I cant really undarstand the 0.27gpm and 1.02 PSI that u point out in term of performance but if u say that the difference is a big one then i have to hear what u say. Btw the pump i m talking about is this http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...product=943428




Isn't the Liquid Pro the one i heard that after a long time of using has the ability to stick the cpu with the block? I wouldn't like something like this to happen. Pleaze verify this because Collaboratory Liquid Pro is a thermal paste i can find.


And i have one more question: I can buy EK Waterblocks Reservoir Multioption 150, Multioption 250 and Multioption 400. Except from the obvious difference of the water capacity is there any other difference that is worth pointing? Is bigger the better when we compare reservoirs?

That pump you can get is the Vario version so you not need to worry - I don't understand your language at all but there are some numbers on the website given - 1800 and 4800 and they are rpm of Vario that can be adjusted (the Basic's speed cannot be adjusted) plus there is a difference in names (the Basic is named MCP655-B, without "-B" it's vario)

GPM means Galons Per Minute, if it's more, the performence is better as it defines the amout of water that flows through your e.g water black
PSI are some units that describes pressure. I don't really know how much 1 PSI is but if you'll use vario you'll have 4,00 PSI, if basic only 2,98 PSI though. It definies head pressure of your pump and it doesn't have direct influence on performance but more is better

I havn't heard about any problems with Liquid Pro. I've been using it for like a year now and it hasn't glued my heatsink to the CPU yet

About the reservoir - it's capacity doesn't matter as long as you have 1 pump (if you've got more of them in series or a strong one like Iwaki it could matter). Big reservoirs are needed with strong pumps. If it's too small, pump can lack water. In your case EK 150 will be enough. You can use any other reservoir as it doesn't make difference. IF you want even better performance, you can use a T-Line - it gives only a little, though.


Hope I could help

[Snyxxx]

Regarding the pump, get the variable one. You may hear an annoying whine that you may want to dial down to reduce this noise.

Also, do not think this will be the last watercooling stuff you will buy

Rad and pump can be used many different ways. If you get bit by the watercooling bug, you will get more stuff later, but can always use this pump and rad.

I prefer 3/8"( 9mm) ID and 5/8" (16mm) OD tubing. It bends better and fits over 1/2" barbs with no worries of leaking. Get 10 feet (3.3m) to be sure on your first build.

[ChaosAD]

That pump you can get is the Vario version so you not need to worry - I don't understand your language at all but there are some numbers on the website given - 1800 and 4800 and they are rpm of Vario that can be adjusted (the Basic's speed cannot be adjusted) plus there is a difference in names (the Basic is named MCP655-B, without "-B" it's vario)

GPM means Galons Per Minute, if it's more, the performence is better as it defines the amout of water that flows through your e.g water black
PSI are some units that describes pressure. I don't really know how much 1 PSI is but if you'll use vario you'll have 4,00 PSI, if basic only 2,98 PSI though. It definies head pressure of your pump and it doesn't have direct influence on performance but more is better

About the reservoir - it's capacity doesn't matter as long as you have 1 pump (if you've got more of them in series or a strong one like Iwaki it could matter). Big reservoirs are needed with strong pumps. If it's too small, pump can lack water. In your case EK 150 will be enough. You can use any other reservoir as it doesn't make difference. IF you want even better performance, you can use a T-Line - it gives only a little, though.

Very informative indeed.Everything is very clearly explained.Thank u very much. But why would a T-line perform better than having a tank? Most of the setups i see include a tank? What are the advantages and disadvantages of the T-line?

[OCme]

a T-line will give better performance because it is less restrictive. A reservoir is used more for easy filling and bleeding air from your system.

[ChaosAD]

Also, do not think this will be the last watercooling stuff you will buy

I prefer 3/8"( 9mm) ID and 5/8" (16mm) OD tubing. It bends better and fits over 1/2" barbs with no worries of leaking. Get 10 feet (3.3m) to be sure on your first build.

Never said that this setup will be the last one.But the info i gather is to make the best one for my needs with todays best equipment.

To make it clear to myself...whay exactly is the translation of ID and OD regarding the tubing.We seem to have different kind of measurement and i get confused here.

And btw Snyxxx i see that u use the PA120.2.Are u happy with it since your loop include more parts than just the cpu i intend to cool.Do u have any other/better solution for me since u own one and u know the pros/cons of it?

[ChaosAD]

a T-line will give better performance because it is less restrictive. A reservoir is used more for easy filling and bleeding air from your system.

So i guess i ll go for the more noob-friendly reservoir for the moment.

[Nate P.]

OD is the Outside Diameter. ID is the Inside Diameter.

[Kosior]

Very informative indeed.Everything is very clearly explained.Thank u very much. But why would a T-line perform better than having a tank? Most of the setups i see include a tank? What are the advantages and disadvantages of the T-line?

-As OCme said before, T-line is less restrictive but don't expect an extreme performance increase. a T-Line will give you up to 0.03 GPM if compared to a reservoir.

-A big disadvantage of T-line is the time of bleeding out the air of your liquid cooling system (I mean the time you need to get rid of those little air bubbles inside the water). With T-Line it can be even 100x longer. But don't be scared ! With reservoir it takes like few seconds so with T-Line it wouldn't be more than 1 hour :P

[ChaosAD]

OD is the Outside Diameter. ID is the Inside Diameter.

Ok now its more clear

But still i cant decide which one to use?What difference will a thicker tube over a thinner one make?The thinner will be more flexible to work with and it will need less lenght for the bending i guess.But the thicker will be better performer since more water will pass through it.Is this correct?

I did some search and found Tygon 15,9/11,1 and Tygon R3603 14/11mm. Is any of these gonna work better for me than Tygon R3603 19.1/12.7 i included in my first post?

[Kosior]

Ok now its more clear

But still i cant decide which one to use?What difference will a thicker tube over a thinner one make?The thinner will be more flexible to work with and it will need less lenght for the bending i guess.But the thicker will be better performer since more water will pass through it.Is this correct?

I did some search and found Tygon 15,9/11,1 and Tygon R3603 14/11mm. Is any of these gonna work better for me than Tygon R3603 19.1/12.7 i included in my first post?

Tubes with thicker ID will be less restrictive but the diffrence is a really slight one.

I'd suggest you downloading Martin's Flow Estimator and calculate the diffrences - it would put some light for your understanding

Tubes with thicker walls would be harder to kink

I'd suggest Tygon R3603 14/11mm. They look awesome in my opinion and the diffrence won't be big. they have only 1.5mm thick walls but you can use.. let's say Swiftech SmartCoils to prevent them from kinking

[bf2142lol]

The fuzion Is pretty much designed for quads, It will work really well. Both those pumps are the same and will perform very well in that loop. I wouldn't downgrade your radiator, If you can afford It get it, atl east Id you ever expand your loop you'll have plenty of heat dissipating potential to spare. Loop looks good, It should net you a nice OC.

[ChaosAD]

Do u think a Laing DDC 12V DDC-1T + Petras Tech DDCT-01S Derlin DDC Top would perform better than the MCP655?

And btw i also found EK Waterblocks Pump Attachment DDC X Top Acetal.

Here are the links:

http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...product=926736
http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...roduct=1042661
http://www.plaisio.gr/product.aspx?c...roduct=1041193

Too many options too little knowledge.

[Snyxxx]

And btw Snyxxx i see that u use the PA120.2.Are u happy with it since your loop include more parts than just the cpu i intend to cool.Do u have any other/better solution for me since u own one and u know the pros/cons of it?

You are right that I have a lot of stuff in my single loop with only a PA120.2.

I mainly watercool for silence and not a massive overclock. A great overclock may give ~10% boost to some games, but I would rather get high end hardware and live with it for a while.

Love the PA versus anything else. Less pressure drop, larger fin spacing (no dust collection) and it performed better than my other .2 radiators. It also takes lower RPM fans which helps with the noise.

[ChaosAD]

You are right that I have a lot of stuff in my single loop with only a PA120.2.

I mainly watercool for silence and not a massive overclock. A great overclock may give ~10% boost to some games, but I would rather get high end hardware and live with it for a while.

Love the PA versus anything else. Less pressure drop, larger fin spacing (no dust collection) and it performed better than my other .2 radiators. It also takes lower RPM fans which helps with the noise.

High end or even "higher" end hardware need to be overclocked to be fun.

About the PA i get the idea.Thank u for sharing your experience.