Unlock your XP2100 without cutting Bridges!!

[FrEaKZoIdE]

Errr..
How about the Duron 1300? Can it be unlckable by closing the L1 and switching the L10 around? Or Ca I close the 5th L3 and the L1's and the problem is solved?

Thks...

[deks]

I dont want 13X and thats all I had no matter what I set it to. Is CIrcut works contact pen good enough? I will try filling the gaps with a crayon or something. I thought doing the wire trick it defaults the multipler to 5X? I did test at 100mhz but I had no control over the multiplyers. So yes I beleave it must have been grounding.

[candjac]

Originally posted by deks
I dont want 13X and thats all I had no matter what I set it to. Is CIrcut works contact pen good enough? I will try filling the gaps with a crayon or something. I thought doing the wire trick it defaults the multipler to 5X? I did test at 100mhz but I had no control over the multiplyers. So yes I beleave it must have been grounding.

Circuit Works conductive trace repair pen should be fine.
Be sure any possible "grounds in the pits" have been cleared after cleaning, ie, no contact from "anything conductive" in the pit to either of the 2 dots of each open bridge...use an eye loupe to verify as best you can.
John C.

[deks]

5th attempet to unlock this sucker. Are you guys positive it works on all Pally 2100+ Wire mod in place. L1s Bridged. Pits filled with a crayon. Multiplier still locked on 13. Do you need to pile on the Condutive ink to the pins? Cause if the pin trick worked shouldnt the cpu (even if the L1's wheren't bridged) set the CPU to 5X? Maybe the pin trick isnt working on my 2100+ AGOIA? Im getting pissed. About ready to sell this and fork out a little (well kind of a lot) for a 2200 or 2400 that come unlocked. Im to the point of sending this to anyone that can get it unlocked.

Frustrated,
Deks

System
2100+@ 138FSB (Not unlocked But trying)
A7N8X
512 OCZ Tech
G4 4400@305/600
Volcano 9+
§§§§loads of Fans

[bjm362]

Ok,I have an xp2100 palomino.
If I just did the pin mod and didn't unlock the L1 would it post at 11x?Or is it a must to unlock L1 before any changes.
I Would prefer an 11x multi to the 13x it uses.

Edit: Oops this was already answered on page 2,sorry !

[bjm362]

I have read several references in this thread about a 5x multi.My current bios only shows down to an 6x multi.My board is a
MSI kt3 ultra aru.Is the current bios going to cause a problem?
Do I need to go to msi's website and trace back to and find an earlier bios to flash back to?
I want to be at least pretty confident before I try and unlock.

[CodeThief]

Just tried this on a Gigabyte GA7VRXP and it doesn't work Made DOUBLY sure it was all correct.

Only thing I can think is ...

When I connected the pins with conductive ink, I connected the small circles at the bottom. Did I need to connect the actuall pins themselves rather than the tiny circles at the bottom of the pins???

Dave

[OPPAINTER]

You just connect the 2 dots that run vertically up and down each bridge. One bridge at a time

OPP

[CodeThief]

LOL uh yeah I did that

What I meant was ...

under the CPU where you connect the pins together, each pin is sitting on a little circle. Is it ok to connect these circles, or when you did it with ink did you draw down the pin then across to the other pin and up that?

Thief

[Ajax]

You read it all right Ajax, let's hope your mobo/system "co-operates". You see, changing the Multipliers also involves code in the Northbridge, tables for system setup/"timing" during the boot process for example. And the Northbridge gets Multiplier info from "another" set of pins, not the ones connected to the bios for the mobo/bios when changing. So there's always the possibility of a "mismatch" (esp when "modding") which might cause the system to not boot. We only know this in general from reading about it in datasheets but exact logic/details are not available, and might not understand them even if available. Might be similar situation in bios?? But this has worked on some mobo/s in past, Good Luck.
John C.

GREAT NEW GUYS !!! AND BIG THANK TO CANDJAC

I was able to unlock my XP2100 for my old A7V rev.1.02 whithout cutting any bridges. I only followed Candjac suggestions in this post.

I'm now runing at 1.8Ghz. Very very nice...

It's so great to get it work !

Yeaaaah... Thanks again Candjac

Ajax

[candjac]

Originally posted by Ajax
I was able to unlock my XP2100 for my old A7V rev.1.02 whithout cutting any bridges. I only followed Candjac suggestions in this post.
I'm now runing at 1.8Ghz. Very very nice...
Ajax

Glad to hear it worked and other parts of mobo did not interfere. Hope you also went to
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm and read some of the Multiplier oriented articles there so you'd learn to "understand" the rather simple Multiplier Code that AMD uses. It's not rocket science, and all of the recent Multiplier setting problems are the result of mobos not being able to keep up/cope with the 5th 8X Bit Value signal bus being set HI since the Palomino 2100 and Tbred 2200. That's where knowledge of the Multiplier Code and its circuit/s helps...easy to design "workarounds/schemes" to compensate for those mobos' incompatibilities.
John C.

[CuriousGeorge]

HI gang new to this forum iv had a tbirb 1400 that came unlocked from AMD and had it OC'd till i just got my 2100+ and was looking to OC it as well, this post seemed the best of all that iv looked through to unlocking my chip but it seems everyones 2100 is green mine is brown i bought it retail in a box with the pos heatsink they give you (im using a volcano 9 thou) is there a diffrence???

And to get the whole unlocking thing straight close the L1 bridges and i have to do the wire trick?? ( or just use conductive adhesive) on the 2 pins on the chip???


thanks in advance

[IamAnoobieCheez]

uh huh.

if u only perform a L10 swap, you should get 10.5x on the PaloXP2100+.

even a better method, called U-pin method(Nope.. im not talking about the pins underneath the CPU packaging) on the socket, it should give you the same effect/result as the swapping L10.

In other words, if you don't mind 10.5x, no connecting bridegs are required at all. eheh...

of course... if you want to change multipliers upto 12.5x range, closing L1s are required.

[Asniper]

Nice find, but to scared todo it hehe, and don't have a mobo that will let me oc. So ill pass on this for abit

[candjac]

Originally posted by IamAnoobieCheez
uh huh.
if u only perform a L10 swap, you should get 10.5x on the PaloXP2100+.

even a better method, called U-pin method(Nope.. im not talking about the pins underneath the CPU packaging) on the socket, it should give you the same effect/result as the swapping L10.

In other words, if you don't mind 10.5x, no connecting bridegs are required at all. eheh...

of course... if you want to change multipliers upto 12.5x range, closing L1s are required.

Careful with your advice...if you swap the L10s the system will post at 5X..not 10.5X, and if the L1s are not closed no way to change that 5X. Check AMD's Multiplier Code @
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Multiplier Code article and/or Palomino article.
John C.

[CuriousGeorge]

http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm man i need therapy after going thou all that lol,

Im not that advanced but i understood sum what the reply Cheez
and having a 10.5 multiplier is ok just means ill have to mount my watercooling unit or A/C unit on it and do the xtreme .
But would rather start off low and slowly move to that stage so.... L1 bridges it is and i seen in another article that cutting the 3rd bridge on the L11 and joining the 2nd bridge along with the L1's is a good start any thoughts on that ???? (just as a start for a newbie like me ;P )

[vmikac]

hi

i would like to know how can i get multipliers above 12.5 on an xp1700+ tbred based....

it is unlocked by default, but on my motherboard(soltek 75kav) when i try to put 14.0x multiplier it comes otu as an 5x
and 14x is maximum of the mother board

i am currently running it at 2000+, 12.5*133, because when i increase FSB i get problems and my computer does not restart ....

what contacts on what bridges should i connect?

as i understand it, i should cut the first L10 contact, and connect the second one to get access to multipliers above 12.5?

will 5.5 then be like 14.5x?
is there any other way to do this, i wouldn't like to cut the contact unless i really need to, and it does not seem very easy to do.

is there an easier way of connecting 2 contacts then conductive ink? something that won't stay visible on my CPU when i try to sell it?

thank you very much in advance!

Vladimir Mikac

[SpiderMAN]

Originally posted by OPPAINTER
Works great, all multipliers from 5-12.5

OPP

And what about 13-XX multipliers

[SpiderMAN]

How to unlock bigger multipliers?

[Larryc94]

What did I do wrong

I have a XP2100 palomino that I connected all the L1's and switched the L10's. Now I have 5x as default or I can get 11x and 11.5x, this is on a Chaintech 7njs. I select other multi's but end up with 5x , 11x or 11.5x.

Thanks

Larry

[candjac]

Originally posted by Larryc94
What did I do wrong
I have a XP2100 palomino that I connected all the L1's and switched the L10's. Now I have 5x as default or I can get 11x and 11.5x, this is on a Chaintech 7njs. I select other multi's but end up with 5x , 11x or 11.5x.
Larry

There are 5 signal circuits with Bit Values = .5X, 1X, 2X, 4X, 8X. Palomino 2100 has the 2X and 8X Bit Value signal circuits HI for Multiplier = 13X.
When the L10s are switched the 8X BV is reset LO, so only the 2X BV is HI for Multiplier = 5X, so getting 5X says your L10 mod is OK. But you could have had problems with closing the L1s, like still open or grounded/set LO.

11X has all 5 BVs/signal circuits LO, so we know here that at least the 2X L1 closing mod was OK since signal "was" HI but "is now" LO.

11.5X has "only" the .5X BV/signal circuit HI, so we know here that the .5X L1 closing mod was OK since signal "was" LO but "is now" HI. Also confirms again that the 2X L1 is OK/HI default but now LO.

So that leaves the 1X and 4X L1 closing mods "unproven". We'll "assume" you tried 12X and 12.5X, but got 11X and 11.5X, which would mean that the 1X BV/signal circuit L1 closing mod, default LO, was probably grounded OR not completely closed...either of which would leave the signal circuit with a "permanent LO", because the mobo/bios could not reset it HI as it needs to be for 12X and 12.5X...1X L1 needs to be redone.

You can check the default LO 4X L1 by trying 10X, if you get 9X then only the 1X L1 closing mod needs to be redone. If you get 5X then the 4X L1 closing mod is also still open or gtounded...needs to be redone...but no need to fix the .5X, 2X and 8X L1s.

L1s L to R = .5X, 1X, 2X, 4X, 8X.

http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Multiplier Code, Circuits, and Palomino articles to learn AMD's Multiplier Code so you can verify the analysis above and do your own mod/s degugging next time.
John C.

[Larryc94]

Thanks John C for the reply,

When I try 10x I get 5x, so if I understand I have a problem with the 4x. Do I also have a problem with the 1x?

Thanks again for the speedy reply

Larry

[Larryc94]

John C

Your right on the $, 12x results in 11x so to answer my ? about the 1x mod is ng. I give it one more shot at redoing those locks

Thanks again

Larry

[Larryc94]

Well now I'm stuck at 9.5x or 9x and 5x. I have redone the 1x twice, but still same results as above. I guess I fixed the 4x because it's different than when I started.

Thanks

Larry

[candjac]

Originally posted by Larryc94
Well now I'm stuck at 9.5x or 9x and 5x. I have redone the 1x twice, but still same results as above. I guess I fixed the 4x because it's different than when I started.
Larry

Always post a table or listing of "I set vs I get", "same results" and "it's different" are too uncertain.

Also, note that problem/s were defined as offending/suspect L1s "either" not closed "or" still open. So rework/search for fault is "dual"...if not closed then be sure of no film/debris on upper and lower dots of bridge. If grounded, must be sure that conductive material which may have seeped into the pit is completely removed, or at least is making "no contact" with upper and lower dots of bridge. Must check for both possibilities.

BTW, are you reading articles so you can begin to debug on your own??
John C.