"Teybers Rotary SS"

[[XC] 2long4u]

The whole cover comes off and there is a big wheel that adjusts for tension. You will need to loosen it to get the new blade on. Just get one for metal, it should look like a hack saw blade.

[rocket733]

If you're just looking to rough cut stock get a lower tooth count, it'll cut faster but leave a rough finish. Also if you're just cutting aluminum and cooper I wouldn't worry about what kind of blade you get since you're just cutting soft metals. Grizzly is a good place to find out the type of blade fits your saw.

[teyber]

The whole cover comes off and there is a big wheel that adjusts for tension. You will need to loosen it to get the new blade on. Just get one for metal, it should look like a hack saw blade.

If you're just looking to rough cut stock get a lower tooth count, it'll cut faster but leave a rough finish. Also if you're just cutting aluminum and cooper I wouldn't worry about what kind of blade you get since you're just cutting soft metals. Grizzly is a good place to find out the type of blade fits your saw.

alright thanks. 2long4u: yeah that wheel seems like the one. No time to play with it ATM but i will try to get it off this weekend.

Yeah i just want fast cuts. I am milling what i cut anyways, so finish really doesn't matter....

Been spending most of my free time cading stuff out. I will post them soon.

REgards

[n00b 0f l337]

Get your evap dun up yet?

[teyber]

not really... i can't explain my schedual! its nuts! only time to work is weekends...

Thinking of getting this baby:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-VICTOR-100FC...QQcmdZViewItem
Im willing to go up to 50$, im sure it will go higher. But my flashback regulators leak so much that the torch doesn't even get enough fuel to light :P which means potentially will start a bomb. Thinking this may just be the cheapest way to go.
Any thoughts?

Hoping to fix some spots i think might leak on the top portion of the evap, not even started the bottum... want to get my oxy/acet trustworthy.

Regards

[godsa]

Keep it up Congratz on your progresss

[teyber]

thanks godsa! but im feeling the opposet :P

I think ive ruined my evap while brazing. I really don't want to use my oxy/acet ATM because i don't want to risk flashback (boom!), and i purchased flashback arrestors, but they leak terribly! New ones are around 80$ which are wayy to much. So im hoping this bid goes well... we will see. Using the map torch, i cannot get it hot enough, and i just melt the tubing that is hooked up to my nitrogen tank. Very frustrating night Think i will give a new design i have a shot. Got more copper as well. (ATM have enough copper for 3 evaps)

Regards

[teyber]

There is the rendering of the evap. 3/16" base, 1/8" first step, 1/16" steps throughout, 1/8" last step and 1/8" top.

Here is the shroud i have spent lots of time on. It is for the larger shroud. I thought drilling holes like shown would look cool but realized it will be hidden and take too long lol.






Regards

[[XC] 2long4u]

Throw up some pics of the evap and purge setup.

[teyber]

Throw up some pics of the evap and purge setup.

word. Will edit once i take pics.

YOU ALL MUST PROMISE NO TO LAUGH AT ME! EVEN THOUGH 99% COULD DO BETTER WITH A PROPANE TORCH, YOU WILL SEE HOW THE BRAZE JUST "SPLATTERS" ALL OVER THE SURFACE OF EVAP RATHER THEN MELT WHERE ITS SUPPOSED TO...

[teyber]

setup





Some notes: 45% seems to do it worse then 15%
Isn't "flowing"

Regards

[[XC] 2long4u]

Make the suction line longer so you don't burn your hose. You can trim it later. Some parts of your evap got to hot some not hot enough. I recommend going up in torch size. It will be easier to control the heat level.

[killermiller]

Unclamp it from the vise and set it on top of it. Hold the torch between the vise jaws on the bottom. Ditch the vinyl tubing and braze some of that .040 cap tube to a access fitting and just use your charging hose. If you touch the brazing rod to your work(evap) and it doesn't liquify you don't have enough heat. That clumpyness is because it isn't melting, it is just getting soft.

[{.bLanK} GoD]

The vice is acting like a big heat sink, sucking a lot of heat from the evap.
If your N2 flow is too high it will be also cooling down the evap as well.
I use cement board, (hardie board, Polite) and just sit the evap on it. May want a few layers to avoid burning the bench.
As killer said, use a nice long piece of cap tubing. It's an easy way to get a nice low flow. For an evap ideal flow would be somewhere around 2-3 liters per minute.
To measure N2 flow you use a flow meter.

[runmc]

If you can't get the evap red hot with your torch, use a camp stove to help. As said before, get it out of that vise. Your going to be lucky if you can just melt what brazing alloy you have on the evap now and not have pin hole leaks. From my experience, if you don't get it on the first time, it's hard to keep from having leaks. Good luck to you.

[n00b 0f l337]

Get a firebrick, helped solve all my problems.

[TopherTony]

Get a firebrick, helped solve all my problems.

qft, i had the same issue with the vise and I switched over to a cinderblock, and eventually to a fire brick. worked soo much better. took a little time to get the balance just right with the cap tube feeder, and the suction line, but my single mapp torch did the job.

[tim-]

more heat teyber.. thats all i can say by seen your pictures.. more heat.

[Moc]

don't forget flux if you use 45%...
and use much flux!

[killermiller]

I don't use flux on copper to copper and don't have a problem. I don't think it is necessary, the phosphor is what bonds with the copper.

[godmod]

If you use rods with >= 45% silver it is really better to use flux. it is not that expansive...!

[Sneil]

I think he's using silfos 15%Ag so no flux needed, yea Teyber like everyone else is saying the clamp is a bad idea and is sucking the heat right out of the evap. And also once you take it off the clamp and get it hot enough to properly flow you're going to melt the vinyl hose like it was said above and use a cap tube brazed to a shrader valve and stick it in there.

[teyber]

alright thanks for responses guys. I won the bid on that torch btw, so i will try brazing this again soon

Yeah, seems the vice is the problem. Talked with drewmesiter, and he said that it problably oxidized when i was trying to braze it from improper flame, which sounds about right. I was brazing with a #0 welding tip, and i have moved to a #4 welding tip. I think i will try placing the evap on a bbq grill on top of the metal i am brazing on, so i can heat from below also.

Blank god: yeah, i have a flowmeter... i purge at about 25 scfm(unit given... not sure what s is, but 25 cubic feet per minute). Seems about right? for first 20 seconds i am at about 60 cfm, then lower it back down.

had some intimate time with my grinder, ill show you how it looks now in a few.

Thanks for responses all

[teyber]

cleaned up evap on grinding wheel...

[killermiller]

All you need to do is displace the air and then barely keep it flowing. Run 25 for 10 second and then drop down to less then 5. Thats why you ran out of nitrogen so quickly.