Lapping the 2.4C IHS

[freecableguy]

I have had the IHS removed from my 2.4C for about 6 months now. I tried to get more people interested in this but no one seemed to car that I saw about a 7C drop in temps. BTW, DO NOT attempt to remove the IHS from ANY of the "Z" (m0 stepping) chips including the P4EE. Lapping the IHS to a mirrored copper finish is a good idea though.

[Liquid3D]

Hey don't feel bad, I didn't think peope cared either. But you must remembeter a 7C drop may not be worth the loss of the warranty, and if you don't have a heatsink mallueable mounting hardware forget it. For examle the standoff's on my SLK947, and SP-94 prvent me from using the P4 with IHS removed. You would have to sand down the stand-off, and place washers under the mounting screws, but then it's hard to get even tension. I actually ground down the screws because they tap out in the bottom of the standoff. That's carefully meas7ured by Thermalright, and just removing the IHS is enough to render the heatsing unusable. I tried it. I did write an article about it at Madshrimps here's the link;
http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=gethowto&howtoID=39

Your not alone in this. I too experienced a significant temperature drop. And the core is simply amazing. See below how it looks afdter you clean it. It has that deep dark blue/black color which I've heard is indicative of a quility core. And it just so happens I've had this 2.4C up to 3865MHz, and even higher, but not stable.

[st0nedpenguin]

Hmmm, I have been considering shaving a mm or so off my SP-94 standoffs, might be worth a try now just for a touch more pressure.

[Liquid3D]

Be careful my friend. I simply sanded measured, and sanded again. It's not easy, but I wouldn't take it to a grinding wheel or anything.

[Holst]

Originally posted by freecableguy
I have had the IHS removed from my 2.4C for about 6 months now. I tried to get more people interested in this but no one seemed to car that I saw about a 7C drop in temps. BTW, DO NOT attempt to remove the IHS from ANY of the "Z" (m0 stepping) chips including the P4EE. Lapping the IHS to a mirrored copper finish is a good idea though.

Why not remove it from a Z stepping chip ?

[lalPOOO]

Because Intel is bonding the heatspreader to the chip with some sort of silver epoxy. So far anyone who tried to remove it has ended up with a destroyed core.

[Spec3]

Here is a pic of my core after taking the IHS off. The reflection you see is a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.

[feesh]

Beautiful I might have to do that when my 2.6c gets here today, provided it isn't a newer stepping.

[snow]

Originally posted by Spec3
Here is a pic of my core after taking the IHS off. The reflection you see is a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.

well my 2.4c don't look as good as yours but it is running 3.4 ghz 1.55 volt at 30 C full load with a SLK900U and a zalman 50 cfm fan on it, don't think it would have so low temps with the IHS on it.

[Liquid3D]

Originally posted by Holst
Why not remove it from a Z stepping chip ?

Holst, I'm shocked you wouldn't know that? Now I'm scared.

I think I'll rip the IHS off my 3.0 using a hammer and big screwdriver. I mean why the Hell not "Self-Destruct Will Robinson...WARNING. WARNING..." (flailing arms in flexi-pvc tubing)

[st0nedpenguin]

Originally posted by snow
well my 2.4c don't look as good as yours but it is running 3.4 ghz 1.55 volt at 30 C full load with a SLK900U and a zalman 50 cfm fan on it, don't think it would have so low temps with the IHS on it.

I dunno, this chip I have will run 3.5GHz @ 1.6v, temps at 30c load, that's with the Tornado cranked down to 3500RPM.

The CPU is still in it's "virgin" state, IHS in place, non lapped.

Originally posted by Liquid3D
Be careful my friend. I simply sanded measured, and sanded again. It's not easy, but I wouldn't take it to a grinding wheel or anything.

Yeah, I just want to shave a tiny bit off, nothing insane, just to up the pressure a tad.

[kromosto]

i want to remove my ihs but not sure if it will touch 6000cu good anymore in my p4p800

[Liquid3D]

Whats the mounting hardware on your CU6000 kromosto? Maybe it can be done. Have a pic or link?

by the by Stoned P just place washers under the springs, and that will increase the pressure on the chip. That's all you have to do my freind?

[st0nedpenguin]

It's odd, but I tried all kinds of different mounting methods, I followed the instructions first, then tried it with only the plastic washers on the standoffs, then with washers on the springs, then with no washers at all, and a few other combinations.

I got the lowest temps using just one plastic washer on the standoffs, between the standoff itself and the motherboard mounting hole, I'm getting slightly higher temps at the moment, around 32 under load rather than 30c, but that's probably just because the heating is on now due to the weather.

I'll have a play about with it once I get the new motherboard through, I have an RMA number at last, so this one is going in the post tomorrow.

[kromosto]

this my cooler and in this link there is a information about installation i have to be sure that it makes good contact because i am using this rig at work and when i did sometinh wrong and my rig stops wprking my partners go angry lol they told me to stop overclocking but i cant

http://www.zalman.co.kr/english/prod...ps6500b-cu.htm

[kromosto]

http://www.zalman.co.kr/english/product/ZM-WB2.htm

also i got this water block but cant get my water cooler parts from one of my partners so havent tried it yet lol he is cooling his 2400+ with a home made water cooling system with a block to cool 9800pro block is also home made

[nailbomb]

Do the 1.8's have a thin layer of aluminum on top of copper? I want to know, so that way I can judge if i have gone far enough/too far

Shaving off should NOT have an effect on the interface with my MCX478-V right? Since its clip mounted?

Thanks

[Marvin]

mine is a SL5WJ and still dificcult to remove the IHS. Lapped the IHS 2 time and not great success.
Nik, does your P4 is the same ?
cheers

[berkut]

Is there any way to crack the glue on a M0 stepping cpu ?

As far as i know some epoxy glues (ati's for examle, nvidias also) dont like acetone, the intel / amd / nvidia glue used to mount IHS'es change in to some kind of goo when they have contact with acetone, maybe the epoxy glue would also act to acetone like this ?

[Liquid3D]

Trust me it's not worth destroying a $200 to $600 CPU for a maximum temp drop of 8C...

The time and effort, not to me tion the risk, would be better spent getting a Danger Den Maze-4 Powerkit for $199. You get ther excellent Maze-4 CPU block, Hydor L30 pump (320gph), Black Ice Xtreme radiator, clear plexi-reservoir, 1.5meters of 1/2" clear DD tubing, 120mm Sunon fan, and depending on how you set the kit up, a 20C drop in temps. I leave the radiator outside of the case on the cool floor, and leave all the components external of the kit. Usually my PC is under an open window, but in winter my temps drop to 8C, so peoapl are actually in disbelief.

To satisfy those who wouldn't crack a window in Winter, place their PC just beneath it, or leave the components outside of the case, I closed the windows, and let the heat rise in my room. Below are my current temps, running a 2.4C at 280FSB (1:1) at only 22C;

[nailbomb]

Liquid,

Can you show us a pic of the guts of your rig? What case are you using?

I'm real curious about the Maze-4 rig

[Liquid3D]

Sorry about the late reply. Here's the system, the top left photo is the primary reason why the temps are sp low. This window can remain open even in Winter. I live on the 3rd floor of a 100yr-old Stone building a few hundred meters from Newport Harbor. The cool water air, keeps the building cold, th stone retains this cold. This corner room has a small window pewrpendicular to the window pictured, so there's a constant flow between them. With the components on the foor the way they are, everything is disipating it's heat into the stone-floor/walls etc. Especially having the Radiator at the lowest point, it's as cold as the floor, then facotr in "wind-chill" from the fans, and you have 11C on the mobo, but only 10C on the CPU (although where I'm stting on the bed, is about 20C or around 68F).

One reason for this is the RBX has the brass plate installed, and it's dissipating/absorbing the cool temps as well. I have the Danger Den Z-chipset block fed first, and the RBX second, although it wont remain this way, because the block has many nozzle attachements and I have the Hydor Seltz L45 now to install with it. The added pressure is almost going top create a vaporizing effect. I just need a ;large dual radiator for the larger pump. I'm simply ecstatic with the Danger Den hardware, I love it! I'm not sure where the diode measures temps on the Asus, I doubt it's on the chipset (although they should be) but if it were it would certainly explain why many days the CPU is running cooler then the mobo. If that makes sense.

[nailbomb]

Nice Thanks for taking the time to make the pics. If I go with water I think it will certainly be Danger Den. I hear nothing but good things.

I got my CPU lapped flat down to the copper layer and didn't really see much of a difference in temps (on air). Kinda disappointed, but o well.

[Liquid3D]

By the way Nailbomb (crazy username ) welcome to the Xtreme I think if you stick around you'll find there's some really great people here!

What TIM are you using? How did you apply it? Laping the IHS is important, but if you've only lapped the IHS, and left the Heatsink replete with the micro-grooves exemplified below, your only half-way. The TIM is the medium of transfer for everybit of energy (heat) which is to be conducted away from the CPU cooling it.

Another lesson I learned from Nevin himself (owner Arctic Silver) is that, spreading the paste, incorperates air into the forumula. This incurs the same effect in the TIM, were trying to ameliorate through lapping BOTH surfaces. Simply place a small dollup (a "drop" equal to a hyper-thin layer which would cover the IHS surface) and then allow the natural clamp-down pressure to spread the TIM. Remember, the actual core size under the P4 IHS is only about 40% of the entire surface (as shown below). If using a mounting system which uses the boards mounting holes, tighten the bolts perpendicularly so that pressure is distributed evenly during the installation (tightening down process). If using the retention brackets or Ziff-tab clamps, you can center attach the heatsink, and then apply even pressure so the paste displaces evenly underneath. After a week, remove the fan, and shift the heqatsink slightly, this will actually expidite the "settling" and break-in process of the TIM. I find the best TIM's on the market are Silver based, period! AS5 is the best I've ever used, it's density makes it the ideal interfase.

[kromosto]

ok ok i am starting to remove my ihs from 2.6c if it works i will tell the results if not work then you can read the whole story from kunaaks thread