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Thread: Guide/How-To (No 56K): 1500W Immersion Load Tester

  1. #1
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    Guide/How-To (No 56K): 1500W Immersion Load Tester


    WARNING: This guide features crappy humor, meh photography, and volatile sealent. When working remember that airflow is your friend, so open a window. Also watch your fingers and if your younger, work with a parent or with their supervision, and lastly this isn't for everyone so work at your own risk.

    A guide in pictures, but I'll add some wording as well. Decided today to build a immersion load tester, mostly for chillers, but surely can find other uses for a large inline load testing system. Can test a water loop or heat up a nice bath as well!

    Total cost for the load tester was around $40. This of course is without a large variac, (20 amps recommended for this sorta load), to control the load, and a kill a watt to read the load.

    So pictures;

    Total parts about $40 as I said, but you can see just how simple. Theres some primer and such that I was going to use but decided to go with aquarium sealant, should hold decently I think.
    All the PVC is 2 inch.


    Very easy and acquirable tools.


    The heater;


    We start with the basic design, the main tube chamber contains the immersion heater, the in and outputs, and a Y off. The Y off will go to an open top for adding liquid as well as monitoring flow and dropping in a temperature probe if wanted.


    Actual sizing now, of course with a 8" long immersion heater you dont need a 2 foot PVC tube


    Hacksaw cutting, really easy, I mean, seriously, very easy. The rule of thumb here is, thumbs don't grow back. Remember that.


    A few ounces of elbow grease later;


    A bit long, but on purpose, want some extra liquid in the bottom;


    Broke out a 3/4" holesaw bit, could have used the adjustable, but couldnt find my hex driver. Easy as pie with PVC, didnt even need to clamp it down;


    A little loose due to the bow of the tube, but more then good enough!


    After setting the adjustable holesaw to a size I deemed "close", I drilled the pilot hole, trick here is to flip the end cap over;


    Vrrrrrrrrr tada!


    Now flip it back;


    Clamp or vice is really needed here, but the adjustable hole saw goes right thru. Watch your hands and body here as the spinning bar can break bones.


    Dropping in the immersion heater, bit tight it seemed then spinning it slightly went right in like it was meant to be. And after another 360 degrees perfect fit, nice and snug, and the rubber gasket makes a tight seal;


    Sealent;


    Begin the sealing! Murder on the hands indeed, but solved that shortly. Just pull back the tube a little bit, spread on the sealent, then slide it back. Then follow with a paper towel to remove excess and push it further into the joint;


    Call it lazy, I call it innovation;


    Now we're sealing tight!


    And leave to dry!


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  2. #2
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    Looks good. We really need to fix the lighting in your basement and teach you how to take better pics
    Quote Originally Posted by 3oh6
    damn you guys...am i in a three way and didn't know it again
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    Im exclusively benching ECS from this point forward

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    I feel like I'm missing the point here. It makes sense to test water cooling rads and whatnot, but where's the purpose in phase? How do you intend to use this?
    Quote Originally Posted by Ugly n Grey View Post
    I'll just change my sig to "Fold for XS or I'll post nekkid pics of meself"

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    I'm still trying to figure out if the whole thing is a joke or not

    As to the sealant.... why?
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    Hahaha for water chillers and such!
    Come on :P Aint it obvious?
    As to the sealent, this stuff should survive negative temps. I've used it before at low temp points and had no trouble.


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

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    oh ok!!! water chillers hadn't even crossed my mind. sorry
    Quote Originally Posted by Ugly n Grey View Post
    I'll just change my sig to "Fold for XS or I'll post nekkid pics of meself"

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    hey NOL: bout that sealant, Does it try really hard? i am going to warn you that those silicon based sealants degrade over time... I know this was a cheap project but a glue that actually fuses(melts and drys) would be best. For plexiglass, weldon#3,4 and 16 work. So im not sure if those would work on these, but a fusing glue and that silicon stuff on top would last longer IMO

    I do understand this was a super quick and cheap test though

    Looks fantastic
    mentally confused and prone to wandering

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    Melts and bonds PVC, hmmm yeah that would be best. Of course even better is copper pipe. But, PVC it was, this is majorly a prototype though.


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

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    http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...=91&top_cat=87
    yeah but 2" od CU is currently running ~50$ per foot haha im sure you could find it for 30$ or so but still. WIll the load tester melt the pvc if it is not beeing cooled by a chiller?
    mentally confused and prone to wandering

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    Quote Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337 View Post
    Melts and bonds PVC, hmmm yeah that would be best. Of course even better is copper pipe. But, PVC it was, this is majorly a prototype though.
    You know that cleaner and glue for pvc (which it looks like you have in the pic) does melt and bond the pvc? All that sealant is doing is making a mess and looking ghetto
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    Quote Originally Posted by teyber View Post
    http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...=91&top_cat=87
    yeah but 2" od CU is currently running ~50$ per foot haha im sure you could find it for 30$ or so but still. WIll the load tester melt the pvc if it is not beeing cooled by a chiller?
    Psh, just get steel and tig weld it shut

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    Quote Originally Posted by [XC] gomeler View Post
    Psh, just get steel and tig weld it shut
    Could mig it if you are careful and a decent welder.
    Quote Originally Posted by 3oh6
    damn you guys...am i in a three way and didn't know it again
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian y.
    Im exclusively benching ECS from this point forward

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    Nice hand work but the design can be simplified.

    Firstly it would be wise to purchase flat caps as a far supior seal can be acheived and the ports can be placed there (One at each end).

    The tee is un-needed, all that is needed is a bleed line and drain-coc (I couldn't spell the last part correctly f**king retarded auto censore bs!)

    Total parts list? 2 Caps, length of pipe, 1 drain-coc, 1 needle valve for bleeding, heater, tubing ports.
    Bring back natural selection! No more warning lables!

    The one and Only MG Pony

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    The tee is un-needed, all that is needed is a bleed line and drain-coc (I couldn't spell the last part correctly f**king retarded auto censore bs!)
    Hey MG Pony is this what you were talking about?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Michael St. Pierre

    • Worked 15 years for Polycold Systems
    • Now Self-Employed
    • Manufacture Heat Load Controllers
    • Also do contract service work on Polycold units

    Side note: I usually don't respond to PM's or emails regarding the projects that I post in the forums. I feel it's much more fair to all, to answer questions within the forum topics themselves.

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    Hehe, I know what you mean. Its like somebody writes something about

    Matsua

    compressors

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    Great idea! I will definitely be using your design to adjust the heat load for my chiller.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mytekcontrols View Post
    Hey MG Pony is this what you were talking about?
    mentally confused and prone to wandering

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    Sealents all dry, seems justtttt fine
    Well now to build a chiller that can take on 1500 watts


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

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    nice guide their NOl keep up the good work mate.
    I moved the thread to the chiller section and made it a sticky
    Last edited by kayl; 11-27-2007 at 05:57 PM.

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    lol thats just wrong!
    Bring back natural selection! No more warning lables!

    The one and Only MG Pony

  21. #21
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    Cool thanks Kayl, whats wrong Xeon?


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

  22. #22
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    I think he's referring to my interpretive photo that I posted earlier. Basically just trying to live up to the rules you posted at the start of this thread, that being crappy humor

    Hey Nol, do those immersion heaters come any smaller? I had something else in mind for it, something other then load testing chilled water which I wont get into here since it would be

    Nol I have to say that you are definitely a jack of all trades around here, nice job on the chilled water load tester
    Michael St. Pierre

    • Worked 15 years for Polycold Systems
    • Now Self-Employed
    • Manufacture Heat Load Controllers
    • Also do contract service work on Polycold units

    Side note: I usually don't respond to PM's or emails regarding the projects that I post in the forums. I feel it's much more fair to all, to answer questions within the forum topics themselves.

  23. #23
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    After doing a little research on Immersion heater. I have a few questions on how to control and maintain a set heat load. First, the immersion heater has to be controlled by a thermostat to shut down at set temperature or it will continue to heat the water beyond desired heat load. Also, how do you calculate watts to temperature, so the thermostat can be set to maintain set wattage?

    For example: Lets say I want to tune my system for 800 watt load....what temperature would I need to set the thermostat to maintain the heat load?
    Last edited by Sweeper; 11-28-2007 at 05:57 AM.

  24. #24
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    I don't think there is a thermostat connected to this thing, nor meant to be (Nol feel free to correct me if I am wrong). The idea as I see it, is to have a heater that is capable of up to 1500 Watts on a 120V supply. The load control aspect (which I think was already mentioned earlier) would be to use a variac to regulate the voltage going to the immersion heater, and something like a Kill-a-Watt Meter to let you know how many watts you are actually putting into it. This should then give you the ability of simulating any desired heat load from 0-1500 watts.
    Michael St. Pierre

    • Worked 15 years for Polycold Systems
    • Now Self-Employed
    • Manufacture Heat Load Controllers
    • Also do contract service work on Polycold units

    Side note: I usually don't respond to PM's or emails regarding the projects that I post in the forums. I feel it's much more fair to all, to answer questions within the forum topics themselves.

  25. #25
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    Bingo you got it Mytek, and thank you for the compliments


    If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.

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