Help the newbie with his build!!

[Talonman]

Talon that unit looks Sweet !

I ended up purchasing a few items made of gold and shinny rocks from DeVon's instead of spoiling myself Gah ! What have I done !!!!

But that WaterKeg is for sure on my list for Jan/Feb

Sounds good!! I do love mine...

The wife called me at work and informed me that my Ebay 'Unopened Vista Ultimate 64bit full Retail version' arrived at the house.
Apon close inspection, it look 100%. No fingerprints on the 2 CD's, the Quick Start Guide, and Welcome card are clean, and unbent.
I have to actually admit, this looks unused as advertised.
Everything looks good for a 64 bit install.

I just opened Crysis, Born Ultimatun HD DVD, and a new pipe as gifts from the wife... Good deal, I needed all of them!

[Talonman]

Due to this thread I posted in the air cooling section about my 40mm Silenx Ixtrema Pro Series fan:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=171129
And them getting me up to speed that any Silenx fan was not my best choice...

I took this advice:

How about getting a 40 to 60mm adapter and putting a 60mm fan on...quieter and more cfm

That would block one if not both of his PCI-E slots, but if you can find some way to make it work that would be the best solution.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4352
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3890

And ordered them both. I think it worked out well for me. I am a 1 card GPU guy, and think the top slot would still have plenty of room?

What to you guys think?

My PowerBridge cooling is now Forged Copper with a dedicated 60mm fan rated at 12CFM! I think as long as my GPU will fit in the upper slot, I probably can officially call this an upgrade.


My new 60mm Panaflo axial fan (FBA06T12L) rated at 12CFM 24dBA, with 40mm to 60mm UV reactive adapter attached.
I also added a 40mm Scythe Mini-Kaze (SY124010L) into my collection of parts. It is my backup plan if my GPU would have problems fitting with the 60mm fan installed.



It's skinny. Here is one shot from the side:


I have it hovering right above the sink. It actually feels pritty darn sturdy with just the 1 bolt and washers securing it to the mobo.


Do you think if I only intend to use 1 GPU, I will have space issues with this fan? The entire fan does pivot on the bolt in the upper right corner too.


I strapped my fan wire down too.

[Buckeye]

Talons ever increasing pile of computer parts, he will open a store soon

[Talonman]

Isn't that the way it always goes with hobbies.

I do want to add that a 60mm fan does move allot more air than a 40mm fan. I plugged in both and actually felt for the first time exactly what a 40mm fan can do. It's not too impressive...

If your a 1 GPU man, I highly recomend fitting a 60mm in insted, if you opt to air cool your SB with air.

[Talonman]

I just ordered some Arctic Cooling MX-2 thermal paste yesterday. I was planning on using Arctic Silver Ceramic, but the more reviews I found, the more I realized that MX-2 is just a better TIM. My CPU and NB waterblocks will now be attatched using Arctic Cooling MX-2 thermal paste.

[Talonman]

I placed an order to Pertas for the following:

(1) D-Tek Fuzion Pro-Mount Hardware - Plan to use this to mount my D-Tek CPU block now.

(1) 10' CAT5e Network Patch Cable - Blue - Wanted a new network cable for my Road Runner cable modem.

(2) EnzoTech BMR-C1 Pure Forged Copper Ramsinks (Pack of 8)
(2) EnzoTech BMR-C1L Pure Forged CopperRamsinks - Low Profile (Pack of 8)
Not 100% sure what I am going to do with these... I just know I wanted some. They will be used for my future GPU, or thinking of sticking some to the R68 coils around the CPU on the Maximus. I am not sure if the coils get hot enouigh to benefit from forged copper sinks or not, but if they do, I am game to attach some.

(1) Petra'sTech UV Blue/Clear Dye (10mL)
(1) Petra'sTech UV Red Dye (10mL)
I want to be able to add more UV blue to my water, withough adding more G11 and weakening my loops cooling ability. Petras UV dye should fix me right up. I have also seen some members mix some colors in their loop. The G11 UV blue from Petras is a light blue color by it's nature. I plan on adding a few drops of red dye to my loop to give it a hint of UV red. I am not sure how it will work out, but it will be a custom color for sure.

[Talonman]

My EK NB water block arrived. It looks to be the exact size the Maximus needed.

Pic to show the EK and stock backplate:
It lines up just right. Good job Eddy.



One shot from above:



Bottom of the blocks.
FYI - That's just the paper towl's reflection in the lower corner. I can assure you all I see is a shiny base.



Side shot:
Lot's of Copper...



I think this is going to work well, my autimin is noticeably cooler...


Preping the stock backplate wen't well. I gave the one corner a small tap after taking the rubber washers off, and it suffered a small impact wound. I then changed my plan to using beefy side cutters and snipped the other side of the rivet off as close to the backplate as I could. It gives you a good spot for the drill bit to spin on.

I drilled from the side that makes contact with the motherboard, into the backplate with a block of wood behind it. I used that drill bit in the picture, but I don't know what size it is. The rivet just pops out the other side like butter during the process.

I did a newbie mistake and had my clamps in the way for the bolts to go through the EK block. I loosened them and made an adjustment withought spilling a drop.

The longer bolt in the EK block is one of the 4 that come standard with the NB block. I also ordered the a general hardware mounting kit from EK too, and it's the shorter one.
I will be using the 4 longer supplied bolts when mounting the block.


Here is the back still looking like new!
I checked all 4 holes to insure the bolt would fit.


One more picture with the moded stock backplate on. I intend to put the mobo between the black and green washers.
There are metal washers next to the nuts on all 4 bolts. You cant see them in the picture.
Looks to me like it should work well?


Although you might think you don't want to use the thick black stock washers, when you attach the backplate to the mobo, you can see why ASUS thought a little extra height wasen't a bad thing here. There are some small components located under the backplate, that I'm guessing you wouldn't want to put excessive pressure on.
Note: I didn't have the nuts tightened up yet in this picture. The rubber washers all snugged up nice to the mobo after they were.


Here is the bolts supplied by EK with the block. I couldn't be more pleased with the fit.
The small metal washers are in there too.



The Pro mount has been installed. Leak test under way...

My new supplies....



A good picture of the inside of the NB block: http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/popup_...19887e5828b204



I have both blocks secured to the mobo, with some MX-2 used for my TIM.
On the Pro-Mount, the mounting bolts stop themselves from being overtightened.



The big slab unapoligetic copper is in direct contact with the NB's IHS, along with some MX-2... Let's see how the NB deals with that!




Lot's of room for R68 coils around the CPU, to catch some good air:


The backplates are looking good too:


The excitement is building. The water blocks both seem to be doing fine...

Getting real close to hitting this thing with power for the first time.

I took my quick-disconnects off, and drained that section of the loop that goes to the mobo.
Ran the hose out the back of the tray. I did make sure when it went through the back, it was the way it naturally wanted to go. I didn't want any funky 'twisting' pressure on the fittings of the blocks.
Cutt two fresh ends off of the tubing out the back, and made them the same length. Slid the disconnects back on, and I was off and running again...

One thing I just realized how handy it is to burp my blocks running the Keg. I can pick my tray up and spin it around, before I ever even slide it into the back of my case.
I will know for 100% sure, when I slide the mobo in, there will be no large air pockets in my blocks.

[Buckeye]

WOW Talon that’s looks incredible so far, you are doing a fantastic job there !

Those are really nice looking blocks and the color of the fluid in the tubes looks pretty cool also. I can’t wait to see this thing all powered up !

Nice Job !

[Talonman]

Thanks buddy!!

I just slid the rig back into it's home. I have the Keg running off it's own PSU right now. My water is still actively running in this shot.
I just also want to post that "Bubbles like to go up in water!".
When burping my blocks, not only could I rotate them any wich way, I was able to keep the mobo's water blocks the lowest thing in the loop the entire time.
I think it helps to get as much air out as possible during the burping process.
Now that I have my blocks above the RES, am glad that stage is over.

I am trying to decide what slot exit, I should use for the Keg's external power connector....

What slot in the Maximus is the least valuable? That's where I probably should install it.

[Buckeye]

So you are trying to bring this puppy alive now ? Thought I saw on another thread you are having Raid problems ?

This is my system...

CPU: Intel Core 2 QX6700 (Quad Core) Extreme Processor, 2.66 ghz, 1066 MHz FSB, 8 MB L2 Cache. Currently running at 3.2 ghz
Coolit Systems Freezone Thermoelectric CPU Cooler
Mother Board: ASUS Maximus Formula SE
Memory: 2 gig Corsair Dominator DDR2 1066 MHz, SLI ready
2 x 74 gig SATA2 Western Digital 10,000 rpm Raptors in Raid 0 - OS, Programs
2 x 500 gig SATA2 Western Digital 7,200 rpm in - Programs, Data
BFG 8800GTX OC
PSU: Enermax Galaxy DxX EGX 1,000 watt
Dell 2407WFP
SilverStone TJ09B
Windows Vista Ultimate x86

Yes that Freezone will be going soon.

I really had no problems getting the 2 Raptors in Raid 0 up and running.

Here is HD Tune I just ran on it. Keep in mind that this array has been running for sometime and has a lot of files on it.

[-iceblade^]

all that metal... all those parts... i'm confused :P.

nice build Talon

[Talonman]

Thanks -iceblade^.

Wow Buckeye, you have a nice system going too!!

I do plan on OC'ing my system soon. I have to read a bit more first. Still can't find the memory voltage adjustment in the BIOS.

Some pictures from today. I did pop my nVidia 8600GT in, until I am ready to buy my GPU.
System next to the Keg:


Lights off!:


Lights on:

[Talonman]

My first officail baseline numbers!
Q6600 GO, stock speed of 2.4GHz.

I used the newest version of OCCT, set it for 1hour Mixte test.
Room temp was 62.0F


Idle Temps ------ 30min IN ----- Final Temp
MB - 25C ----------- 25C ------------- 25C
CPU - 7C ----------- 15C ------------- 15C

Core1 - 20C -------- 28C ------------- 28C
Core2 - 20C -------- 27C ------------- 27C
Core3 - 15C -------- 24C ------------- 24C
Core4 - 21C -------- 30C ------------- 30C

NB - 21C ----------- 22C ------------- 22C
SB - 26C ----------- 26C ------------- 26C

Thoughts:
1) On my cpu, I never saw 31C ever display even once. My feeling is that is pritty darn good so far... The odd consistant low reading on core3 I tend not to believe, and go with the others. I just think it reads low?

2) NB at idle is good, and it hardly ever climbed much higher with OCCT Mixed running for 1 hour. If about 22C is going to be my worst temp, I should be golden!

3) My fan and sink seem to be working well for my SB... Temp did not change from idle to load at all. What temp does your SB hang at?

1 Screen shot of OCCT 1hr mixed testing: Taken about 9 minutes before reaching a successful completion.



Tried Prime to see how high my temps would go. Still looking good...
The NB still is topping out at 22C too.

I tried another type of Prime95 run, and hit 31C now, but in doing so my NB was holding steady at 21C. It dropped another C!
I also seem to notice my 1 low core temp is getting closer to the others. It is starting to look more like a nice tight little group.
Go ProMount....

[Buckeye]

Looks at the Master… IT”S ALIVE !

Looking sweet Talon, glad to see it’s finally up and running and looking good so far ! Very clean build
I like the window in the case, mine doesn’t have one

So just testing stock setup for now, nice temps and looking good.

I have had mine up to 3.8ghz but the Freezone was not up to the task for very long so I backed it down. Just wanted to see how high I could get this to, better cooling and I could go higher I am sure.

My old build was a Striker with 2 – BFG 8800GTX OC’s in SLI but I borked the BIOS with a bad flash one night LOL ! argh what a nightmare that was, it’s all fixed up now and could be reinstalled again.

[Talonman]

I have to admit, I do enjoy the window.

Just about to do my first OC'ing over the next 3 days.

I would be glad for any advice on the matter. My biggest concern is my 1.8v rated memory. I don't want to burn it up, so I feel like I just can't plug sombodies elses numbers in there.

To get to 3.8GHz, will I need to over-volt my ram, or can I just set it for 1.7v's, (Maximus overvolts ram by .1v) and run it that way.

This will be my first mobo that ever let me OC, so it's all new to me.
If anybody has some BIOS settings that you think might be good for me to start with, feel free to post them here!

Install fallought:
1 150GB Raptor died after about 3 hours of use. The BIOS no longer will reckognize it, no matter what SATA cable used, or port plugged into, or power connector used on the drive. The computer thinks it's dead.... RIP. I am expolring my RMA options, but I had it sitting in the box longer than 30 days. Not sure how things will go yet.

I am back out of the RAID club for now.

1 2GB stick of my 4GB will not post well, or be stable at stock settings. I started with both sticks installed, and had system stability issues. I took out the first stick, and system would not pass the RAM check phase in the LCD poster. It didn't matter what slot I tried. Same result and tried about 8 times each slot.

I took the first stick of RAM out, and tried the second, first attempt to boot was successful using the white slot closest to the CPU. I still currently have it there, and all system stability issues are now gone at stock speed. I am running with 2GB of ram right now.

The 3 5' EL Wire's on one fan controller toggle switch darn near caused a fire! Way too much load. I flipped it on for the first time, and a loud electrical pop was heard. Almost as loud as a capasitor blowing up. I flipped the switch off in less than 2 seconds. I never smelt any smoke.

I disconnected the EL wire that just wrapped around the connector going to the MOBO to lighten the load. Flipped the switch on and hoped for the best. The one on the PSU lit right up, and so did my Spider, for about 1 sec. Then the Spider started to flicker, and went out. With sadness, I decided to remove the spider, so I wouldnt have an electrical fire in my PC...

Surly the toggle switch should be able to handle 1 5' EL wire right...?

Well it did until tonight. Just went black, and I opted to glue that wire to my PSU too. I am trying to decide if I should get the Acetone out and remove the wire, or just write it down as the switch can't handle it, and find a new way to plug my 1 surviving EL wire in. I would like to keep it.

Blue UV paint with the $25 air brush spider stencel was a total loss. The blue UV paint was a scam I guess. I used the entire can, and can't see anything. Probably just as well due to me having to remove the Spider.

I still am in good spirits, and love my new system. I want to get a speedy 24hr, 7 days a week setting, to get ready for my GPU purchase. I still have my heart set in a nVidia 9800GTX, or another single GPU that will let my do any game at my native 1920 X 1200 screen resolution.

I am wondering if 3.8GHz 24 X 7 will be realistic with my cooling blocks?

[Anemone]

Suggestion (and only if you can do it gently without disturbing anything)

Loosen and spin the slot side hose clamp on the NB block so the screw fitting isn't in the path of a longer pci-e x1 card should you ever decide to put one in there. Someday you may decide you want a longer sound card in that first x1 slot and you would not want the metal of the clamp to touch the back of a longer card. It's easy to do (maybe) now at the beginning than down the road when you've had the unit going a year or two.

If that is too dangerous (leaks) wait and do it when you need it. I'm pretty much going to follow your exact design, unexpectedly since I didn't follow all your buildup, though for me I'm debating water on the mosfets vs air. I like the air for simplicity, but I'm concerned those Thermalright mosfet blocks might get a bit warm. My other change is that I'll probably leave the SB air only without a fan (we'll see).

Love the build, and glad to see you've had fun along the way!

[Buckeye]

Oh man Talon. I know whenever I build a machine and turn that power switch on for the first time I hold my breath Ha !

The is my old case vs new case. The Antec had the Striker and SLI setup in it. It would just get to warm without the side panel off. As you can see the SilverStone is much bigger. It’s so much bigger that I felt I need to install an automatic garage door opener for the side panels Ha !

I had to throw the SilverStone together fast, in 1 day, because after I messed up the Strikers BIOS I had to get up and running fast so I could work, so it’s not very clean inside. You can see just how much space the Freezone takes up, though it was much easier to install in the SilverStone than the Antec.

The OC for 3.6ghz. This was pretty easy to get to and ran very stable. At 3.8ghz I had to up the volts a bit and it started to get to warm for my tastes with this cooling setup. I really want a WaterKeg/Phase setup but that will happen on my next build.

I have decided that I really need two machines, 1 stable that I do not mess with for work related things. Then a second for Fun ! hahaha

[Talonman]

Suggestion (and only if you can do it gently without disturbing anything)

Loosen and spin the slot side hose clamp on the NB block so the screw fitting isn't in the path of a longer pci-e x1 card should you ever decide to put one in there. Someday you may decide you want a longer sound card in that first x1 slot and you would not want the metal of the clamp to touch the back of a longer card. It's easy to do (maybe) now at the beginning than down the road when you've had the unit going a year or two.

If that is too dangerous (leaks) wait and do it when you need it. I'm pretty much going to follow your exact design, unexpectedly since I didn't follow all your buildup, though for me I'm debating water on the mosfets vs air. I like the air for simplicity, but I'm concerned those Thermalright mosfet blocks might get a bit warm. My other change is that I'll probably leave the SB air only without a fan (we'll see).

Love the build, and glad to see you've had fun along the way!

I will take that advice, and when I add my bad boy GPU into my existing loop, I will make sure the clamp will be the other way, and won't let it make contact with the card.... Thanks

Thermalright's in my case are barley warm. I think they are more than the MOSFET's need, if you have any decent air flow going on in your case at all.

As far as running the MOSFET water blocks, I still feel that if your only going to be running one loop, leave them out and go air. They say MOSFET blocks are the most restrictive of all the block types, due to their small size. If your going 2 loops, than have fun and go for it!

Quad CPU, our flame thrower of a NB on the Maximus, and 1 GPU will be plenty for my 1 loop if I still want steller temps I think....

[Talonman]

Oh man Talon. I know whenever I build a machine and turn that power switch on for the first time I hold my breath Ha !

The is my old case vs new case. The Antec had the Striker and SLI setup in it. It would just get to warm without the side panel off. As you can see the SilverStone is much bigger. It’s so much bigger that I felt I need to install an automatic garage door opener for the side panels Ha !

I had to throw the SilverStone together fast, in 1 day, because after I messed up the Strikers BIOS I had to get up and running fast so I could work, so it’s not very clean inside. You can see just how much space the Freezone takes up, though it was much easier to install in the SilverStone than the Antec.

The OC for 3.6ghz. This was pretty easy to get to and ran very stable. At 3.8ghz I had to up the volts a bit and it started to get to warm for my tastes with this cooling setup. I really want a WaterKeg/Phase setup but that will happen on my next build.

I have decided that I really need two machines, 1 stable that I do not mess with for work related things. Then a second for Fun ! hahaha

I love the SilverStone cases..

Your system looks good man!

By far, the best case I have ever owned.

Mabey 3.6GHz is better for me than 3.8GHz if I just want to set it and leave it.

[Talonman]

Here is some setting that I currently am considering to plug in to see how things go...
The only exception would be "DRAM Voltage nowakjan2000 has set to 1.90(BIOS)"
I think I would need to set it to 1.70v, for my 1.8v ram, or is overvolting the ram some expected when over clocking?
Do these settings look OK for a test?

Here you go Talonman - 3.825 MHz (9 x 425) OCCt Stable settings:

Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : Auto
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
FSB Frequency : 425
FSB Strap to North Bridge : 333
PCI-E Frequency: 110
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-1020MHz
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
RAS# Precharge : 5
RAS# ActivateTime : 15
RAS# to RAS# Delay : Auto
Row Refresh Cycle Time : Auto
Write Recovery Time :
Read to Precharge Time : Auto

Read to Write Delay (S/D) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (D) : Auto
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
Ai Clock Twister : Auto
Transaction Booster : Auto

CPU Voltage : 1.475 (BIOS)
CPU PLL Voltage : 1.50 (BIOS)
North Bridge Voltage : 1.57 (BIOS)
DRAM Voltage : 1.90(BIOS)
FSB Termination Voltage : 1.44 (BIOS)
South Bridge Voltage : 1.05 (BIOS)
Loadline Calibration : Enabled
CPU GTL Reference : 0.63x
North Bridge GTL Reference : 0.67x
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.50 (BIOS)

NB LED Selection : NB Volt
SB LED Selection : SB Volt
CPU LED Selection : CPU VOlt
Voltiminder LED :

CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum : Disabled

Advanced CPU Configuration
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
C1E Suppport : Disabled
CPU TM Function : Disabled
Vanderpool Technology : Disabled
Execute Disable Bit : Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit : Disabled


USB Configuration
USB Functions: Enabled
Legacy USB Support : Disabled

Hope it will help you get to the point where I managed to get.

[Talonman]

OK, I have started into the OC'ing world:

My current BIOS settings:

Under Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : Auto
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
FSB Frequency : 425
FSB Strap to North Bridge : 333
PCI-E Frequency: 110
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-851MHz
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
RAS# Precharge : 5
RAS# ActivateTime : 18
RAS# to RAS# Delay : Auto
Row Refresh Cycle Time : Auto
Write Recovery Time :
Read to Precharge Time : Auto

Read to Write Delay (S/D) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (D) : Auto
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
Ai Clock Twister : Auto
Transaction Booster : Auto

CPU Voltage : 1.475 (BIOS)
CPU PLL Voltage : 1.50 (BIOS)
North Bridge Voltage : 1.57 (BIOS)
DRAM Voltage : 1.80(BIOS)
FSB Termination Voltage : 1.44 (BIOS)
South Bridge Voltage : 1.05 (BIOS)
Loadline Calibration : Enabled
CPU GTL Reference : 0.63x
North Bridge GTL Reference : 0.67x
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : Auto
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : Auto
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : Auto
SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.50 (BIOS)

NB LED Selection : NB Volt
SB LED Selection : SB Volt
CPU LED Selection : CPU VOlt
Voltiminder LED :

CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum : Disabled

Under Advanced CPU Configuration
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
C1E Suppport : Disabled
CPU TM Function : Disabled
Vanderpool Technology : Disabled
Execute Disable Bit : Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit : Disabled


USB Configuration
USB Functions: Enabled
Legacy USB Support : Disabled

I changed these settings from nowakjan2000's

DRAM Frequency: from DDR2-1020MHz to 851MHz. I am not sure if my ram can go that fast?
RAS# ActivateTime: from 15 to 18 due to that is what my ram is rated at.
DRAM Voltage: from 1.90 to 1.80. I wanted 1.70 but the BIOS won't let you go that low!
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : from DDR2_REF to Auto (Not sure what DDR2_REF voltage was, and it might hurt 1.8v ram?)
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : from DDR2_REF to Auto (Not sure what DDR2_REF voltage was, and it might hurt 1.8v ram?)
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : from DDR2_REF to Auto (Not sure what DDR2_REF voltage was, and it might hurt 1.8v ram?)

Note: Under Advanced CPU Configuration, I couldn't find the CPU Ratio control to set it to Manual.
I can boot into Vista Ultimate, at 3.8MHz!!

Going for a stability test now.
Any coments about my changes are welcome!

[Buckeye]

Woot 3.8 !

[Talonman]

With 3.8GHz I am getting Crash Code one in OCCT within the first few minutes: Not sure what that means yet?

[Talonman]

Lowered FSB to 400, and PCI-e Frequency to 100 and re-testing for 3.6GHz:

My current BIOS 907, and currently testing these settings now:

Under Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : Auto
CPU Ratio Setting : 9
FSB Frequency : 400
FSB Strap to North Bridge : 333
PCI-E Frequency: 100
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-801MHz
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
RAS# Precharge : 5
RAS# ActivateTime : 18
RAS# to RAS# Delay : Auto
Row Refresh Cycle Time : Auto
Write Recovery Time : Auto
Read to Precharge Time : Auto

Read to Write Delay (S/D) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (D) : Auto
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
Ai Clock Twister : Auto
Transaction Booster : Auto

CPU Voltage : 1.475 (BIOS)
CPU PLL Voltage : 1.50 (BIOS)
North Bridge Voltage : 1.57 (BIOS)
DRAM Voltage : 1.80(BIOS)
FSB Termination Voltage : 1.44 (BIOS)
South Bridge Voltage : 1.05 (BIOS)
Loadline Calibration : Enabled
CPU GTL Reference : 0.63x
North Bridge GTL Reference : 0.67x
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : Auto
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : Auto
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : Auto
SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.50 (BIOS)

NB LED Selection : NB Volt
SB LED Selection : SB Volt
CPU LED Selection : CPU Volt
Voltiminder LED : Enabled

CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum : Disabled

Under Advanced
And CPU Configuration:
CPU Ratio Setting : 9
C1E Suppport : Disabled
CPU TM Function : Disabled
Vanderpool Technology : Disabled
Execute Disable Bit : Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit : Disabled

Under Advanced
And USB Configuration :
USB Functions: Enabled
USB 2.0 Controller : Enabled
BIOS EHCI Hand-off : Enabled
Legacy USB Support : Disabled
Port 64/60 Emulation : Disabled

Update: 30 minutes of OCCT successfully completed, and I stopped the test.
I want to try the PCI-E Frequency: 110 again, and keep the 400 FSB Frequency, and see if I still run error free.

Look at my tight CPU temps! Getting closer all the time. Wow!...
3.6GHz looks doable for sure. Now I wan't more again!!

[Talonman]

Keeping my CPU Ratio Setting at : 9
I started playing with my FSB Frequency. It looks like the 400 is going to work, but I wanted another crack at using 425.

Tried 425 again, which changes my 800MHz rated ram, to a 851MHz setting. OCCT fails with an error code 1 in the first few minutes.

Tried 420 which changes my 800MHz rated ram, to a 841MHz setting. OCCT fails with an error code 1 in the first few minutes.

Tried 415 which changes my 800MHz rated ram, to a 831MHz setting, and OCCT ran 1 full hour, to a successful completion.
This is giving me 3.73GHz. All cores are still maxing out around 40C.

These are my current best BIOS 907 settings for 3.7GHz: Always looking for advice.

Under Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : Auto
CPU Ratio Setting : 9
FSB Frequency : 415
FSB Strap to North Bridge : 333
PCI-E Frequency: 110
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-831MHz
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
RAS# Precharge : 5
RAS# ActivateTime : 18
RAS# to RAS# Delay : Auto
Row Refresh Cycle Time : Auto
Write Recovery Time : Auto
Read to Precharge Time : Auto

Read to Write Delay (S/D) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (D) : Auto
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
Ai Clock Twister : Auto
Transaction Booster : Auto

CPU Voltage : 1.475 (BIOS)
CPU PLL Voltage : 1.50 (BIOS)
North Bridge Voltage : 1.57 (BIOS)
DRAM Voltage : 1.80(BIOS)
FSB Termination Voltage : 1.44 (BIOS)
South Bridge Voltage : 1.05 (BIOS)
Loadline Calibration : Enabled
CPU GTL Reference : 0.63x
North Bridge GTL Reference : 0.67x
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : Auto
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : Auto
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : Auto
SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.50 (BIOS)

NB LED Selection : NB Volt
SB LED Selection : SB Volt
CPU LED Selection : CPU Volt
Voltiminder LED : Enabled

CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum : Disabled

Under Advanced
And CPU Configuration:
CPU Ratio Setting : 9
C1E Suppport : Disabled
CPU TM Function : Disabled
Vanderpool Technology : Disabled
Execute Disable Bit : Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit : Disabled

Under Advanced
And USB Configuration :
USB Functions: Enabled
USB 2.0 Controller : Enabled
BIOS EHCI Hand-off : Enabled
Legacy USB Support : Disabled
Port 64/60 Emulation : Disabled

I noticed some of the Maximus boy's are running a 400 FSB Strap to North Bridge. I am currently running 333. Should I be trying to bump that up too?

One shot of my 3.73GHz Rig, minutes away from successfully finishing 1 hour of hard labor.


Note: Just changed my PCI-E Frequency from 100 to 110... Still runs fine.