Coolaboratory Liquid Pro Vs Artic Silver 5 Test results

[gmcg]

where abouts does mx2 come in? is it between as5 and liquid pro?

I've got 14C (43c water) difference with 100% load (Everest Lavalys stress test) for 4 cores (56-57C average) with bowed D-TEK Fuzion (no nozzles, only o-ring) and MX-2 ... it should be very close in quality to Liquid Pro being inactive ...

[afX]

whats all this about attacking steel and aluminum? surely there are no aluminum contact plates on heat sinks or water blocks is there? or is the vapor that it gives off corrosive or something?

[leimrod]

this stuff really is not good. I used it myself on a lapped IHS and a copper based HSF and even though I did notice 1 or 2'c drops in temps after a week of testing I went to remove it to find that it had eaten into the copper and could not be removed. I ended up having to completely relap both copper surfaces to get rid of it.

Also, if you want to see what it does to aluminum, watch this video I made:

http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...o/2155/cat/501

[003]

this stuff really is not good. I used it myself on a lapped IHS and a copper based HSF and even though I did notice 1 or 2'c drops in temps after a week of testing I went to remove it to find that it had eaten into the copper and could not be removed. I ended up having to completely relap both copper surfaces to get rid of it.

Also, if you want to see what it does to aluminum, watch this video I made:

http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...o/2155/cat/501

I've had it on my fuzion and e6750 for way more than a week, it does not eat into copper. It is quite easy to clean off, just use that red colored copper/steel polish stuff you can get from hardware stores, makes the copper shine like new (and no it does not coat it with anything, just removes oxidation and other contaminates).

[afX]

nice video, still i haven't seen any aluminum heatsinks blocks.

[leimrod]

nice video, still i haven't seen any aluminum heatsinks blocks.

stock heatsinks are usually aluminium.

oh and 003, i'm guessing you are refering to Brasso, yeah I tried that first and after repeated attempts I still hadn't removed it, it had left grey pockmarks all over the surface. Still the fact you had to use a metal abrasive to remove it proves that it eats into the metals surface

[Martinm210]

I've been using CLP for over 6 months now and have the following to add:

Never had any sort of pitting in copper.

I have had what appears to be "Bondlike" conditions where after unbolting the processor if almost feels like it's fuzed on, but every time it just takes a strong twist and pops free.

The CLP does seem to be pretty stubborn, would take some effort with a polish to remove, I find it's much easier to just lap with 1000 grit. I relap the IHS and WB base each time I remount.

I also found it's much easier to install using a cotton swab as opposed to the needle.

In the end I still think it's worth it, 3C is nothing to laugh at, that's a huge gain.

It's not for everyone though, but for me...I'll take the difficulties in installation and lapping afterwards for the gain it provides.

[DavidNJ]

Did you use it on your GPU also?

[SiGfever]

LMP worked better than any other TIM that I have used. It is very important to clean and then re-clean the surfaces before applying. If it "Puddles" the surfaces still have some residue on them. I did experience mild bonding and as stated short of lapping it is a bear to get off.

Also being liquid metal the conductivity of the product requires great caution where and how it is applied. I found that using a very small square end brush (like artist use) worked the best for spreading. When the surfaces are truly clean the stuff spreads effortlessly.

[Martinm210]

Did you use it on your GPU also?

Yes, but I didn't log temps to keep track of it. It seems to bond best with copper so a lapped IHS|CLP|Copper WB seemed to do the best. It just seemed to be more difficult to get that surface tension effect broken on my stock nickel plates G80 IHS .