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Thread: Possible to use CPU without IHS?

  1. #1
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    Possible to use CPU without IHS?

    Would it be possible for me to pull the IHS cap off the CPU of e6600 without Ripping the IC off, or doing any damage to Processor. I was thinking to pull the cap of, machine down waterblock so it doesnt touch the socket bracket, and apply waterblock straight onto IC. Should be worth a few degrees. Only think so i can run higher clocks and volts without reaching danger zone in temperature. I could use a thermal pad i have around the IC on Cache for cooling to the waterblock aswell. Would it be worth it? can it be done... safely?

  2. #2
    Egyptian OverClocker
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    isn't the ins of C2D soldered ? i think there was a thread where a user removed it using a fire gun or something like that
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  3. #3
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    I thought it might have been, and i remember something about that. Cant find the thread to see whether it worked afterwards though.

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  5. #5
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    Lol Thanks for that, makes for some interesting reading.. now i just gotta try work out which would be the easist way. I could NC, or just manual mill it, if i did it manual i could make sure i didnt bake it. Dont much like the idea of using it to get it hot enough to remove solder, Nor would i be comfortable torching it. ... Well ill keep reading then.

    Any one actually got some results doing this to a conroe?

  6. #6
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    yes, in those thread specially the last one u will find images for conroe

    FCG did it
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  7. #7
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    I did this about a month ago. Take a propane torch, some welders gloves, and some needle nose pliers. Heat the IHS for 3-5 seconds, push IHS a little bit then use pliers to pop off IHS. You've got to be quick though or else the solder will reset. Oh yeah, you also just need to remove the socket bracket and the waterblock will sit flush with the die, just make sure to tape around the die to create a shim to you don't crush the core.

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    I Might wait on this one... Its not a typically good E66.. Its a later batch, and uses to many volts for good overclocks. For now i might lap it, and the waterblock has a rather rough NC Lathe finish, so rubbing the peaks off that might help. Generally it seems the IHS on these are a concave, so ill shave it to remove the trough. Ill use coarse carborundum, so as to avoid getting a polished finish.

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    Tomorrow i am going to Lap CPU, i will use the granite surface table at work which has recently been calibrated. I will just use fine emery cloth instead of taking the glass and paste approach. I will post up results to see if there is any major improvement in temp, even with my cheep as budget edition liquid cooling haha.

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    Lapped CPU, to be honest, it really was terrible, it took some time to get the sides down. It was very concaved. Soon find out whether it makes much difference. I wasnt able to get waterblock yet though. But also, im thinking of making a cube, to get pump out of my computer, i was going to put another radiator in it also. Run pump to radiator, to CPU, to Northbridge, then to the radiator already in case, then to GPU (am going to get a GPU water block) and then second GPU waterblock (wont be untill i get another GTS though).. Worth the effort? currently i can get my GTS 27/7 stable at 620/920, can go over, but its to hot for me to leave it like that.

  11. #11
    Egyptian OverClocker
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    watercooling ur vga imho is for achieving silence not higher overclocking
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  12. #12
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    hmmm, it get pretty hot though, even without overclock, can get up to 70degrees under full load, i really think the heatsink and fan on them is second rate. There are some card out there that the manufacturer has put theyre own on, and they do way better.

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    YAY! another machinist, did you machine the waterblocks, also, i lap most of my stuff on the lathe with carbide inserts [mine are negative rake] and the highest spindle speed, and 2nd slowest feed rate on the cross slide, also i watercool everything in my PC, or at least everything with mounting holes that i can secure a waterblock on.

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    I lapped CPU with carborundom paste and Glass after checking flatness with 400grit paper on a surface table... Thing was terribly concaved. Seems to only be worth about 1-2 degrees, but i have a worse waterblock than i had before, and ambient temp was higher slightly, i wouldnt say i have concluded anything. Theoretically speaking leaving the coarser finish than the original smoothness, should also help with thermal contact and less "sandwitch" effect. Anyways, i really need to gt into gear and make my little box for my pump and second radiator, just a small 120x120. Also need to get an apogee or something decent in terms of waterblock and get rid of this useless flow restricted thermal take thing. Damn summer is moving in... my overclocking wont be so good from now, even with liquid... come back next winter lol

  15. #15
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    O and im not a machinist lol, im actually an apprentice engineering model/pattermaker, my old man is a fitter and turner so i use his lathe etc, and at work we have a couple of NC's, mostly i use my hands though haha

  16. #16
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    meh, close enough! , i just use my dad's lathes [ a small 1940's atlas, and a 12-36 jet] and his mill [a induma [a french? copy of a bridgeport series 1, beefy as hell! and cheaper than most chinese minimills ] and a drill press i made to a mill, put in tapered roller bearings, and put in a 1 HP motor, it was really sucky compared to the new mill, and niether of us [me or my dad]is a machinist by far, but i can hold a .003 tolerance on that jet lathe

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