Please note the capacitor explosion of P5K-E

[celemine1Gig]

man that really sucks. I can't believe they used lower rated caps on new beetle's board.

And who proved that? Where are the datasheets to back up this claim?

[hipro5]

Ohhhh........Bad explosion.....

I have to say that even IF companies use Class A components, there are ALWAYS posibilities some of them to get damaged.......Maybe one at 100000, BUT it is happening.....You can't be sure EVEN if you use the top out of the top components......

You can't even trust your own a(r)ss...
He will doublecross you too sometimes coz you will think that is a ppprrrrrrr and it will be liquid shi(f)t......

[[XC] serlv]

Ohhhh........Bad explosion.....


You can't even trust your own a(r)ss...
He will doublecross you too sometimes coz you will think that is a ppprrrrrrr and it will be liquid shi(f)t......

HaHa. LOL, with George. Getting older can be such a biatch...

[GripS]

Ohhhh........Bad explosion.....

I have to say that even IF companies use Class A components, there are ALWAYS posibilities some of them to get damaged.......Maybe one at 100000, BUT it is happening.....You can't be sure EVEN if you use the top out of the top components......

You can't even trust your own a(r)ss...
He will doublecross you too sometimes coz you will think that is a ppprrrrrrr and it will be liquid shi(f)t......

I've seen a lot of people here laugh at some pretty stupid stuff but that is funny. Mod's are ok with the bypassing of the curse words eh?

what caught my eye on this was i *accidentally* dented one of the caps right next to my CPU socket(damn scythe infintiy). Hoping the slight dent doesn't turn into something like this down the road.

[YoupY]

Allright, here's another case of exploding caps. Just finished my mods and upped the voltages slight. Board booted fine and everything seemed to be okay.

Then suddenly a BANG, black smoke and the smell of burned electronics.



Mobo: Asus P5k DLX
Vcore was at 1.5V (1.3 from bios, 0.2V additional from vCore mod)
Temp @ -93C
Tagan 800W PSU.

I still have to find out if my other hardware is working fine.

I'm going to try to replace it as well, few question though:

- What's the difference between the red and the blue caps?
- Should I go for the 1600 uF as well, or should take a 1800 uF cap or someting like that?



Hope nobody is going to experience this

[Timbosan]

what another P5K-Deluxe blows a cap.........this is worrying i wanted to but a something from the P5K line.............maybe now i wont.
And YoupY -- i would get a higher rated cap, that one blew, so i would get a cap with larger capacitance & higher voltage rating. Its the ripple current thats killing them so higher voltage rating should give more headroom.

[ineedaname]

And who proved that? Where are the datasheets to back up this claim?

Man if you just bothered to look up you would see KITT's picture urself....

Kitt's P5K-E


Newbeetle's P5K-E



560uf 6v vs 561uf 6.3v

I can't really make out the numbers on the equivalent blown cap on kitt's board but its obviously a different colour.
Looks like 271uf 16v vs 370uf 16v?

Do I still need data sheets?

RE:YoupY

Hmmm that's the same cap as newbeetle's blown cap and judging by my board its the same rated cap that blew too. I also noticed that my board has slightly different caps as YoupY. The ones surrounding the socket are the same as kitt's while the blown cap is the same as newbeetle's. I was a bit scared while trying 2 read it might've blown up in my eye.

After a second look I noticed that the blown cap is actually different than the one in my board. The top number is 744 on newbeetle's while mine is 724. Not quite sure what that number stands for. I wonder what the cap is on YoupY's board.

[Vienna]

Man if you just bothered to look up you would see KITT's picture urself....

Kitt's P5K-E


Newbeetle's P5K-E



560uf 6v vs 561uf 6.3v

I can't really make out the numbers on the equivalent blown cap on kitt's board but its obviously a different colour.
Looks like 271uf 16v vs 370uf 16v?

Do I still need data sheets?

RE:YoupY

Hmmm that's the same cap as newbeetle's blown cap and judging by my board its the same rated cap that blew too. I also noticed that my board has slightly different caps as YoupY. The ones surrounding the socket are the same as kitt's while the blown cap is the same as newbeetle's. I was a bit scared while trying 2 read it might've blown up in my eye.

After a second look I noticed that the blown cap is actually different than the one in my board. The top number is 744 on newbeetle's while mine is 724. Not quite sure what that number stands for. I wonder what the cap is on YoupY's board.

I just checked my P5K vanilla, the cheapest of the P5K boards, even I have the 561uf 6.3v caps on my board which seem to be higher rated than newbeattles P5K Dlx :S

As for the cap beside the 4pin (P5K only has 4pin, not 8pin) it was 271uf 16v cap

[celemine1Gig]

@ineedaname:

No offence, but if you don't know what you are talking about then don't talk to me like you did. I asked for facts. Datasheets that show that the caps are really worse. Noone posted that. So, please, if you don't even know how to read the ratings on the caps, then keep your thoughts to yourself. The cap that blew on Newbeetle's board was a 270µF 16V cap. The top number is perhaps just a date code, but as I don't have datasheets, I don't know for sure. And if I'm not totally mistaking the 560µF cap that you are obviously talking (561) about can't be the right equivalent to the one that exploded on Newbeetle's board, as the cap is quite sure filtering the 12V EPS 8-Pin power connector. Therefore it can't be rated at 6.3V.

BTW, the other difference that you noted between the red 6V 561 (560µF) caps on the one board and the 6.3V rated 561 caps on the other board is just a different manufacturer. Perhaps they even have the exact same ratings. I know for sure that the purple ones are from Sanyo, but unfortunately I don't know the manufacturer of the red caps. It's an absolutely legitimate procedure for a manufacturer to change suppliers of some parts depending on current prices and availability. That doesn't necessarily mean that one is better than the other.


We are talking about this cap:



So what does it say on top of it? I can't really decipher the information printed ontop of it as the pic is too blurry for me.

[K.I.T.T.]

@ineedaname:

No offence, but if you don't know what you are talking about then don't talk to me like you did. I asked for facts. Datasheets that show that the caps are really worse. Noone posted that. So, please, if you don't even know how to read the ratings on the caps, then keep your thoughts to yourself. The cap that blew on Newbeetle's board was a 270µF 16V cap. The top number is perhaps just a date code, but as I don't have datasheets, I don't know for sure. And if I'm not totally mistaking the 560µF cap that you are obviously talking (561) about can't be the right equivalent to the one that exploded on Newbeetle's board, as the cap is quite sure filtering the 12V EPS 8-Pin power connector. Therefore it can't be rated at 6.3V.

BTW, the other difference that you noted between the red 6V 561 (560µF) caps on the one board and the 6.3V rated 561 caps on the other board is just a different manufacturer. Perhaps they even have the exact same ratings. I know for sure that the purple ones are from Sanyo, but unfortunately I don't know the manufacturer of the red caps. It's an absolutely legitimate procedure for a manufacturer to change suppliers of some parts depending on current prices and availability. That doesn't necessarily mean that one is better than the other.


We are talking about this cap:



So what does it say on top of it? I can't really decipher the information printed ontop of it as the pic is too blurry for me.

Hold on, I'll try and get a pic. It's now mounted in my case, so might be a little tricky

[celemine1Gig]

I'd bet it's rated 16V. It also looks like it in the blurry pic. Just curious what capacitance rating it's got.

[bichi]

FYI, CapHounds:

1st + 2nd digits are prime value and 3rd digit is number of "zeros"
example: 1000uf capacitor would be marked "102"
(note: some manufactures/batches will use "xx0" instead of "xx1," when the value is less than 999)

- Low ESR (leakage) caps are essential for proper operation PWM voltage circuits
- operational temperature spec is also important, since most of these caps are near hot components, ie., MOSFETs, inductors
- 105c extended temperature types are usually installed, as opposed to "standard-grade" caps, rated at 85c
- lastly, rated working dc voltage should never be exceeded

NewBeetles pic, the original "271" @ 16vdc capacitor would be 270uf @ 16vdc
note: seems to be a bit low for 12vdc CPU input power filter capacitor

K.I.T.T's caps show "561," which is 560uf @ 6.3vdc

YoupY's cap shows "560," which is 560uf @ 6.3vdc

The "mystery" cap with blue markings looks to me to be 270uf @ 16vdc, which appears to be the same 12vdc CPU input filter
cap that blew on NewBeetle's board, only made by a different manufacturer.

Here's some reference material I collected before buying a P5WDH, early last year, when all the "solid/polymer" electrolytic "poopoo" hit marketecture/public domain:

- appears RED with "F" marking is made by Fujitsu
- not sure about blue/violet/aqua markings, but could be Nichicon
- (see links to polymer/solid cap data sheets below)

**********

P5WDH; Rev 1.02g, 66M0AG

Electrolytic Capacitors

10uf 25vdc 10 4.2mm x 11.5
100uf 16vdc 10 5mm x 11.5mm
220uf 16vdc 2 6.5mm x 11.5mm
330uf 6.3vdc 4 6.5mm x 11.5mm Nichi LG

470uf 16vdc 5 8mm x 11.5mm Nichi LG
820uf 6.3vdc 23 8mm x 11.5mm Nichi LG
1000uf 16vdc 4 8mm x 20mm

*******************

Solid Polymer Electrolytic Capacitors

470uf 6.3vdc 3 8mm x 11mm NU (8x11.5), L8 (8x8), Nichi LG
820uf 2.5vdc 11 8mm x 8mm L8 (8x8), Nichi LG

FUJITSU FCAP (red markings)
http://jp.fujitsu.com/group/fmd/en/s...citor/line-up/

NICHICON LG or LE types (bluish/aqua markings)
http://www.nichicon-us.com/english/index.html

[mukmaster]

This has got to be a cold bug thing becuase all of the exploding caps happend at - temps.

[Mad1723]

This has got to be a cold bug thing becuase all of the exploding caps happend at - temps.

Maybe it's just heavy loads, causing great ripple and then explosion of the capacitor...

[YoupY]

Yesterday I tried to revive the board. In my case replacing the capacitor didn't do the trick. Because I wasn't able to remove the exploded cap as nice as Newbeetle I placed the replacement 1000 uF 16V on the backside of the board with short wires, also I made sure the negative side of the cap was placed on the board the right way. Most likely the exploded cap destroyed some other components, or shorted some other things. No visible indication on the board of that however.

After what should be a life saving operation I fired up the board again my board started to smell really bad, and again black smoke. This time from the mosfets. My board had 12V and 20 amps running through it judging wires. The plastic isolation was completely gone

I just am hoping now my CPU did survive, however it's very likely it died also in the first explosion and presumed shortage.

I'm not sure I this is related to subzero temps. I think we are all going a little bit more extreme with the hardware as Asus intended and the board just couldn't handle it. Also if the solid caps wouldn't handle sub zero temps I think we would have more reported cases (maybe even movies) of exploding caps.

At the moment my cap exploded there was no big load on the system / strain on the cap. One other possibility which may be causing this is the vCore mod, I trust the guys who do find out all this, but, rewiring the board may cause unexpeded results.

Anyway:

happens...

[bichi]

Probability of electrolytic caps (or most electronic components) failing due to "cold" temps in unlikely
- Fujutsu polymer caps, (from datasheets in above link) are designed to operate from -55c to 105c
- typical MOSFETs used in PC power modulators, ie., ON 40N03R, spec -55c to 175c
- high current demand causing ripple is probably not the cause, since PWM/switching capacitors are designed for high ripple

Most quality PC PSUs have current limiters/short detection and should have shutdown the "problem" rail (total short)
- if the DC output stage of the PSU is "defective" and is delivering higher voltage, that could be one cause
- second, is the "inrush volts/current" regulation at power-up of the PSU (first 100msec) is being exceeded
- my guess is the MB PWM controller system failed or a control component has drifted out of spec, due to excessive vMod?
- or simple case of defective capacitors....

Just out of curiosity, what make/model of PSU are you two using? NewBeetle and YoupY

Edit: re-read and see: Newbeetle: OCZ PowerStream 520W and YoupY: Tagan 800W PSU

total bummer, YoupY....

[mukmaster]

but contrary to what you all have said . Every cap thats exploded has been at a very low temperature. I still believe this is related to a cold bug/failure. nay other IDeas.

[YoupY]

I got my new board yesterday, Abit IP35 Pro. Allmost everything seems fine. Memory, vid card and PSU are still working fine.

The strange thing is my CPU. Something weird is going on.



When I'm booting I now boot at 3060 Mhz with a 340 FSB instead of the 333.

AFAIK all OC-options are disabled in the bios and everything is at default. Can anybody explain this or do I need to assume the exploding cap modded my CPU to a 340FSB one... :?

I don't know if the new default FSB speed or the new abit board is having such a good effect on my maximum OC, however with the P5k I was able to reach 510 FSB on air and 556 on PhCh. Now I'm able to reach 528 on air and 573 on PhCh.

[Johnny Bravo]

Don't worry the abit boards run with a slight overclock at "stock" it's nothing to be worried about

[Timbosan]

Did you remove the cpu before you powered the repaired board on again? the cpu is pretty well buffered by capacitors, i doubt it would have taken much of a hit voltage or current wise in the first blowup, as none of them blew or leaked. I hope its all ok

[MAValpha]

Don't worry the abit boards run with a slight overclock at "stock" it's nothing to be worried about

+1.
Whatever Abit considers "stock" speeds, add 6MHz on the FSB. 333+6->340MHz, which is the "new stock" speed for your 6850.
Going into Manual and setting 333 should fix this.

[bonobo]

The capacitor of my P5K-E exploded suddenly.
A big load never hung.
The loud sound and the smoke and the smell......

Condition
M/B : ASUS P5K-E
CPU : E6700
PSU : OCZ PowerStream 520W
Vcore : 1.65V
Clock : 4.5GHz
CPU Temp : -70C

Image of exploding capacitor


I repaired it.

Removal of capacitor


Replacement of capacitor(1000μＦ/16V)


Fortunately, CPU and the power supply were safely.
Mobo came to work when capacitor was exchanged.
I tested it with E6700 and P4-631.
It seems to have made the repair good.

[
NewBeetle

Can i use your pics ( with credentials ) in my blog ?

Thks

[adamsleath]

1.65v doesnt seem too excessive...?

I'd guess that at 4.5GHz and 1.65V the ripple current was just too high for that poor cap. Please measure the resistance of the caps contacts to the empty pad for another cap, on the right next to the FETs. If they are directly connected, I'd advise you to add another cap there and have a look at the ripple current values of the caps that you add. Perhaps it'll help your overclock.

better/less ripple psu may have helped....

clocking to 5.6GHz may not have helped either...

but all the same, cheap anus boards for extreme oc = no by the looks

[YoupY]

+1.
Whatever Abit considers "stock" speeds, add 6MHz on the FSB. 333+6->340MHz, which is the "new stock" speed for your 6850.
Going into Manual and setting 333 should fix this.

I was already under the impression Abit couldn't just set the cpu to it's default speed. But why on earth should I set it to 333

I'd rather try if I can get over 572...

Hope nobody more blows up the cap, but it seems like a wise idea to replace it before it will explode...

[NewBeetle]

Can i use your pics ( with credentials ) in my blog ?

Thks

Hi, bonobo-san.
Of course, you can use my pics.

Regards
NewBeetle