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Thread: Is using 100% Distilled water safe ??

  1. #1
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    Is using 100% Distilled water safe ??

    Hey ppl, as the title states,

    i will be building my WC setup in a few days, n i didnt get any of the PT nuke or Pentosin G11, n i dunno if these things avaiable here locally, so i m just stuck with Distilled water n Anti-Algae Fluids(that we use in Fish tanks)

    So my Question, Is it unsafe to use 100% Distilled water in a loop ? my Case might be exposed to continuous light. I can hide my Res in a dark place if possible.

    Just help me out

    TIA
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  2. #2
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    not a good idea

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    how about 95% Distilled water + 5% Car coolant ?? i have seen several ppl successfully running this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANP !!! View Post
    how about 95% Distilled water + 5% Car coolant ?? i have seen several ppl successfully running this.

    here im using Distilled water + car coolant with a bit of antifungal, You can use the samething you would use on your fish tanks.. They are cheap and Im sure you can find them locally (prevents algae growth




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    I have been using 100% Water For Injection (WFI) for months now and all is fine in all of my 3 loops.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANP !!! View Post
    so i m just stuck with Distilled water n Anti-Algae Fluids(that we use in Fish tanks)
    If you use some that Anti-Algae you should be good to go.

    I use Pure Distilled with a few drops of anti-algae for use in small water basins.

    And no it does not contain Chlor
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  7. #7
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    No its not safe but people have done it with success.

    If your loop is completely one metal (IE: All aluminum or all copper, etc) then you can just use 95% distilled and 5% PT_Nuke.

    I like the look of clear water
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    Thx for the reply guys , much appreciated

    My WC specs are in my Sig

    I dont live in the US, so ordering from Petra will be a pain, when just ordering 2 bottles of PT_nuke/Pentosin. I m looking for a alternative mixture.

    So 95% Distilled water + 5% Car coolant + few drop of Anti Algae = I will be all fine right ??

    Quote Originally Posted by GrimReaper View Post
    here im using Distilled water + car coolant with a bit of antifungal, You can use the samething you would use on your fish tanks.. They are cheap and Im sure you can find them locally (prevents algae growth
    Wht type of Distilled Water : Car coolant Ratio u use ?? u had any problems that u would like to share ??
    Last edited by ANP !!!; 07-10-2007 at 10:15 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANP !!! View Post
    Thx for the reply guys

    My WC specs are in my Sig

    I dont live in the US, so ordering from Petra will be a pain, when just ordering 2 bottles of PT_nuke/Pentosin. I m looking for a alternative mixture.

    So 95% Distilled water + 5% Car coolant + few drop of Anti Algae = I will be all fine right ??
    yup thats what i been using for the last 3 months, p.s I have a 120.3 and a GTX 240 make sure you get the Anti algae from your local shop that sells fish tanks




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    Don't use any car coolant. Use the 100&#37; distilled with the Anti-Algae and you'll be fine. Your loop isn't mixing metals therefore you DO NOT NEED anything that will slow down Galvanic Corrosion (mixed metals eating each other). Iany and I beleive Aussiejester<-- sorry if that's not the right name, used like a 2~5% mix of clorox aka harpic with very good results.

    Again, you'll be completely fine without adding any car coolant, Zerex, Hydrex, whatever since you're not mixing metals. Just be sure to use something that'll prevent the algae.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baleful View Post
    Don't use any car coolant. Use the 100&#37; distilled with the Anti-Algae and you'll be fine. Your loop isn't mixing metals therefore you DO NOT NEED anything that will slow down Galvanic Corrosion (mixed metals eating each other). Iany and I beleive Aussiejester<-- sorry if that's not the right name, used like a 2~5% mix of clorox aka harpic with very good results.

    Again, you'll be completely fine without adding any car coolant, Zerex, Hydrex, whatever since you're not mixing metals. Just be sure to use something that'll prevent the algae.
    OOOooo.. now you have to die!

    BTW.. its 1% to 2%, with 1% being better than 2%. I really dig that guy who used 50% so that he could get a pretty blue color rofl

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    when you say no mixed metals eating each other...barbs are probably nickel plated or stainless and your rad is probably brass. There's 2 metals for u straight off. Not as greater electronegativity difference as copper and alu granted. Still mixed metals though aint it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jarman View Post
    when you say no mixed metals eating each other...barbs are probably nickel plated or stainless and your rad is probably brass. There's 2 metals for u straight off. Not as greater electronegativity difference as copper and alu granted. Still mixed metals though aint it.
    thats the reason I use a Car coolant!




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    Quote Originally Posted by jarman View Post
    when you say no mixed metals eating each other...barbs are probably nickel plated or stainless and your rad is probably brass. There's 2 metals for u straight off. Not as greater electronegativity difference as copper and alu granted. Still mixed metals though aint it.
    He's using a Thermochill, which is copper. As for the barbs..... don't worry about it, use the stuff that comes with it and you're alright. Nickel plated brass is fine to put in the loop... people do it all day long with no problems. A few days ago, someone posted a Galvanic Corrosion chart, i'll see if I can find it and post it in here.

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    Here you guy, thanks Agent11 for finding this.

    http://www.metal-mart.com/Guides/Galvanic.htm

    The further away the two metals are, the more prone to Galvanic Corrosion they will be.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jarman View Post
    not a good idea
    I disagree. I've only ever used 100% Reverse Osmosis water. I just took my loop apart after being used for ~ 3 months, water came out perfectly clear. Almost drinkable

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    The only thing you need besides distilled water is a little bit of algaecide.. You need nothing else if you have a copper loop and aren't using a chiller.

    The steel used in watercooling is passive(at least it should be), so it will not cause galvanic corrosion.. And if the nickel causes corrosion, it is less noble than copper so the only thing you are risking is your pretty nickel finish :P

    Personally I have a bit of orange UV active dye aswell, not too much though.

    You don't need to spend the money on these pre mixed solutions. Just get some dye( I use A.C.Ryan) if you like the look, distilled water and some ptNuke from petras..

    I think algaecide is needed because spores are everywhere, there is no way you can know if your components picked them up on their way to you or if they will even pick them up in your house.

    Of course you may have an Ionic breeze in every corner of every room of your house and a positive air pressure for all I know :P
    Last edited by Agent11; 07-10-2007 at 07:36 PM.
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    Be careful with using off-the-shelf antialgae solutions and additives at random that are not designed for the task...

    See HERE for some examples of the potential hazards...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marci View Post
    Be careful with using off-the-shelf antialgae solutions and additives at random that are not designed for the task...

    See HERE for some examples of the potential hazards...
    marci,

    what would you say the best coolant is or the best mix of things to make the coolant the best performance wise?

    Ive got about 5 bottles of HydrX for a couple PCs here not yet setup with WC.

  20. #20
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    *shrug* Ask a chemist... 100&#37; distilled here, no additives.

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    ANP
    You may find Tectaloy corrosion inhibitor in Surat.
    If there's no light getting to your liquid algae should be little problem.
    I'd suggest demineralized water in a 10&#37; solution with Tectaloy corrosion inhibitor and a local algacide (napisan maybe) if you've UV lights and such.
    If no light, just the demineralized water in a 10% solution with Tectaloy.
    But heaps of guys get by with distilled water only.

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    Hey thx a Ton guys , It helped me a lot

    I will make sure the Anti-algae is pretty much design for my use, thx Marci

    I will be using 100&#37; Distilled water with some Tectaloy (thx Jedda ) n a few drop of a good Anti-algae fluid (Napisan right ?) .

    I will post my experience here, once i assemble everything up
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marci View Post
    *shrug* Ask a chemist... 100% distilled here, no additives.
    Hmm Im going to assume thats with the Tygon 2075 ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jarman View Post
    when you say no mixed metals eating each other...barbs are probably nickel plated or stainless and your rad is probably brass. There's 2 metals for u straight off. Not as greater electronegativity difference as copper and alu granted. Still mixed metals though aint it.
    Barbs are nickel plated or chrome plated brass typically. The chrome, nickel, copper, and brass are close enough to each other that the corrosion won't really happen fast enough to worry about. We are talking years. The chrome for example is the farthest away from the others in the chart but it is towards the noble side, so it won't be a problem.

    I'm just running distilled + few drops PT nuke + UV dye.
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    100% distilled with no additives here also. Never had any issues with any kind of growth as far as algae and whatever else is supposed to be able to live in water cooling loops. When I drain & refill my loop, the water is as clear & clean looking as the day I filled it. I know the jets on my Storm appreciate it. HEHE
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