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Thread: The impact of tubing sizes

  1. #26
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    STICKY!!!!, amazing information, great read and teaches you a lot about system flow rates

    STICKY STICKY STICKY!!!
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  2. #27
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    it's good to see some real numbers attached to things like this. thanks for the informative post

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  3. #28
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    Great post and great timing for me - keep the information coming.

  4. #29
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    I couldn't agree more 1Day.

    Now I can see more and more why Cathar's name is attatched to EVERYTHING that I've learned in the last 2 month's of endless hours of research into WC. Simply awesome work. Thanks for the time you've put into it.

    Sticky +1

  5. #30
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    Thanks Cathar, even I can understand it all now


    All I need now is to work out how I'm going to change from 1/2" to 3/8" with my Silverprop Fusion Cyclone HL GPU block that comes with 1/2" std
    Last edited by alpha0ne; 06-11-2007 at 11:27 PM.
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  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColonelCain View Post
    Great guide cathar. This outta settle anyone who comes asking "What size tubing should I get?".
    Yes now we can simply point to this and say use whatever tube size you might want to use considering the pluses and minuses of your choice in tube size. If 1/2 degree C is important, now you can make an informed choice in the matter.

  7. #32
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    lol... too bad theres no way to put a 3/8 fitting on my RD-30.

    The quick drop fittigns would make looping one hell of an easy task.

    I think my next quadcore will be on 3/8ID after reading this thread. 3/8 is seriously a lot easier to work with.
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  8. #33
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    Great work as always Cathar! Guess now I'd better go revamp some kit specs

    g 1/4 and g 3/8 push style fittings - hmmmm.
    G3/8" - scrolly down - http://www.thermochill.com/acatalog/...cessories.html

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpha0ne View Post
    Thanks Cathar, even I can understand it all now


    All I need now is to work out how I'm going to change from 1/2" to 3/8" with my Silverprop Fusion Cyclone HL GPU block that comes with 1/2" std
    1/2" to 3/8" converter
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  10. #35
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    Stew i posted the info at OCAU

    i hope you don't mind

    http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...=1#post7409651

    i rehosted the images on imageshack though
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  11. #36
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    Thanks Cathar, your the mf'n man!!!
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  12. #37
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    Good work, thanks!
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  13. #38
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    Wouldn't the thin walls of 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD -> 1/8" thickness ? cause the tubing to collapse like there's no tomorrow?

    I appreciate the fervour, but this reminds me of the faithful in a Masdarah in Islamabad (yes, I have been to Pakistan, and that's probably why I'm so militant), after the Grand Imam/Mullah/Sahib/Ayatollah has spoken.
    Last edited by IanY; 06-12-2007 at 06:24 AM.

  14. #39
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    Reference St. Gobain:

    Tygon R-3603 3/8" ID 9/16" OD has a minimum bend radius of 1-3/8"

    http://tygon.com/media/documents/S00...3/tygr3603.pdf

    Tygon R-3603 3/8" ID 1/2" OD has a wall thickness of 1/16" and has a minimum bend radius of 1-1/2"

    Where's this magical tubing that has a 1 inch bend radius ?

    {Edit} I see.. 5/6" ID 1/2" OD has a 1 inch bend radius.. so the rage now is to use 5/16" ID (close to 1/4" ID) tubing ?
    Last edited by IanY; 06-12-2007 at 06:45 AM.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanY View Post

    Where's this magical tubing that has a 1 inch bend radius ?
    What about quartzglass from here for example IIRC it's only few thousands per kilo plus hours

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanY View Post
    Where's this magical tubing that has a 1 inch bend radius ?
    Quote Originally Posted by Cathar View Post
    Caveat: Where very tight radii are needed, can use 5/16" ID tubing instead for those short sections. 5/16"ID|1/2"OD tubing has a 1" bend radius.
    (sigh)

    If you're looking to make an arse of yourself, at least try to pull your head out far enough to allow yourself to read. Look at item AA00023. Is that, perchance, the "magical" tubing that I exactly described, and has the "magical" properties you so sarcastically suggested did not exist?

    Run along now troll. Yes, that is the echoes of laughter following you. No, don't worry. You'll get over it one day.
    Last edited by Cathar; 06-12-2007 at 06:45 AM.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cathar View Post
    (sigh)

    If you're looking to make an arse of yourself, at least try to pull your head out far enough to allow yourself to read. Look at item AA00023. Is that, perchance, the "magical" tubing that I exactly described, and has the "magical" properties you so sarcastically suggested did not exist?
    Hey.. so the rage now is to use ultra small diameter tubing.

    Listen, I did not call you names, and there is no need for you to call me names. I am not about to engage in your little boy antics.. which are incidently against forum rules as well.

    I asked a question, and you provided an answer. I have no idea how 5/16" ID tubing fits into the equation, but oh well.

    If you say so, then it is gospel I suppose.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanY View Post
    Listen, I did not call you names, and there is no need for you to call me names. I am not about to engage in your little boy antics.. which are incidently against forum rules as well.
    Face it. You're just cranky 'cos after 2000+ posts of getting up everyone's noses, you never once posted anything really informational. Just hot air and chest beating attitude. Someone comes along and shows you how it's done, and now you're all bitter. Once again you have cast the first stone in name-calling by offensively implying that everyone is just a pack of religious followers, yet you then try to hold your hands up and claim that you don't engage in little boy antics.

    I say to you quite truly: "Grow up!"

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cathar View Post
    You push the tubing into a hole. There is a collet lock that surrounds and grips the tubing so you can't pull the tubing out unless you release the collet lock, and an O-ring that squishes between the inside of the hole and the outside of the tubing, creating a seal.

    What makes push-fit fittings so good is that there's nothing blocking the entrance/exit of the tubing. It's not like tubing squished over a barb where the liquid has to squish through the smaller barb orifice. With push-fit/quick-fit fittings there's nothing obstructing the flow at all.
    Cathar, the push-fit or Plug&Cool aren't to my knowledge all round on the interior.
    For example the Legris LF3000 (used in Europe), are hexagonal on the inside, and still cause a restriction.
    The g1/4 BSPP for 10/8 tubing push-fit is 7mm at the end, and as you move to bigger tubing, say 3/8 or 1/2, the difference between tubing diameter and the push-fit is bigger, because it still is 7mm at the end.
    The only way to make them equal to the tubing inner diameter is to ream (porting) them.
    Being the case, the only tubing diameter that makes sense and can truly match the diameters of the tubing with the diameter of the push-fit is the 5/16 or 8mm ID.
    Then as you have to use rigid tubing, you can't use the softer Tygon, due to the differences in the wall thickness.
    You can still use Tygon and Push-fit with a barbed connector, but in this case if you use the barbed connector below, as Swiftech you still have a restriction, because it's just a barb with all the inconveniences it has.

    Finally if you use the tube inserts, there's also a restriction.

    Edit: You might have a look upon the Jonh Guest parts , altough I don't know if they have the same characteristics as the Legris parts.
    Last edited by Fiber9; 06-12-2007 at 07:11 AM.

  20. #45
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    Absolutely superb information Cathar- Your methodology is second to none. I think that everyone needs to have a look at this information.

    The difference between 7/16 and 1/2 was interesting, considering it was so small. Then again, there is a 1/16" difference between ID's. I think that the differences might be a bit more noticeable if you were to add, say, a MCW30 chipset block and any GPU block, be it full-cover or otherwise. What say you?
    Last edited by Burn; 06-12-2007 at 07:13 AM.
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  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cathar View Post
    Face it. You're just cranky 'cos after 2000+ posts of getting up everyone's noses, you never once posted anything really informational. Just hot air and chest beating attitude. Someone comes along and shows you how it's done, and now you're all bitter. Once again you have cast the first stone in name-calling by offensively implying that everyone is just a pack of religious followers, yet you then try to hold your hands up and claim that you don't engage in little boy antics.

    I say to you quite truly: "Grow up!"

    Hallelujah! Thank God I don't derive my self esteem from knowledge about water cooling on some internet forum ! Me cranky about not posting information? You are right. I have no information to share, because I have no such knowledge. Thank God.

    You seem to take much joy in throwing stones.. I hope you don't live in a glass house.

  22. #47
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    Nice one Stew.

    So just pure simpely in your own words which size is the best to have these days?

    Hope your doing okay still after your crash too

    Pete

  23. #48
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    IanY there are just some things you learn after you spend 5 minutes on this forum. For example, you don't disagree with Hipro5, OPB, Bigtoe, or Eva2000 when it comes to RAM. You don't disagree with Chilly1, PC Ice, or jinu when it comes to phase change. You don't disagree with k|ngp|n, Kinc, Sampsa, Lardarse, or OPPAINTER when it comes to 3D benching. And you sure as hell don't disagree with Cathar when it comes to water cooling. (or Maxxx or Marci for that matter)

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  24. #49
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    What? Cathar was partially responsible for the 1/2" madness? You Darth Vader!!!!!!!!!

  25. #50
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    Nice to see a technical review of the tubing/flow issue. I kind of figured what you documented was happening turning my D5 to 1 and seeing no temp change. Great work! Good to dispell the escalating group-think on flow requirements.
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