Drain line, who has one?

[Nickel020]

I'm rebuilding my WC setup and thinking about adding a drain line. I was wondering if anyone else has one and how he's done it.
I'm thinking about just using a DD T-piece and a fillport, but what's the best place to put it? The lowest point in the loop, right after the pumpe or some other specific location in the loop?

[HotGore]

I have thought about it, but always forget to do it when I have my looped drained. Pull 'n pray FTW.

[coolfris]

Build one in my second pc at the lowest point. Must say it is very handy mostly because this is 3/8" tubing on 1/2" fittings. Pull them off is impossible.

[brammers]

I've got two

On in the tower, one in the radbox.

I have self-sealing QD's on the line - so I can in effect "half drain" my system - depending on which end of the loop I'm working on.

Ball valve and G1/4 cap FTW

J

[slim142]

Im still thinking about getting drain lines, I heard they have a really small impact on your flow, but they are 100% helpful.

[ownage]

Only the one I was born with.


I wanted a drain line but my pc and loop makes it difficult. I definitely want one on my next rig.

[Big_Daddy]

I have 2. one for each loop..

They are a life savor.. Pull n pray doesn't always work. Lowest possible position in the loop. The T will work great. I put a ball valve on the t leading to a fill port in the bottom rear of my case. pull my case to the edge of the desk, open the fill port, put the bucket under the case, and turn the ball valve. (after opening the res of course)water drains out in a couple of seconds. If you've got a tc rad, open the bleed screw too, that will help the water out of the rad too.

instead of a T, one of those new Bitspower rotary quad's will work nicely too. That way, you can always get the T in the correct direction. (if your hard mounting it to the rad or something like I did)

[mpower1001]

Big Daddy, do you have a link to your T valve with the ball valve or these new bitspower rotary quads. Thanks

[Lloyd]

this how i did mine - it was very handy in the end, to route the tubing to the sb....

[mpower1001]

Click on BD's build log link in his sig...

PPC's has the BP rotary fittings listed today on their site...

Thanks RRR

[csjsi]

Build one in my second pc at the lowest point. Must say it is very handy mostly because this is 3/8" tubing on 1/2" fittings. Pull them off is impossible.

Nice .were did you get it.

[lowfat]

I'll have 2 in my current system. One for each loop. I'll be using a DD Fillport that comes off a tee right after my pump outlet.

[WoZZeR999]

Getting everything ready for my tri-loop. I'm thinking of having a drain for each loop. I've used pull'n'prey a few times where it became pull'n'spray.

[coolfris]

Nice .were did you get it.

It's a brass T with a plug in it. Got it with several other brass fittings from a dutch "watersportshop".

[Zaskar]

I like the idea of using a T block with a Koolance Quick Disconnect (depending on location coupled with a Koolance or now a Bitspower swiveling elbow) With just 1 end of the Quick Disconnect in it will act as a plug, but once you connect the other (with a drain hose connected to it) it will open and drain your loop.

[Flip_Lx]

i cheated put one of these shortly after my pump out put. its great in the stacker as i just have it hovering over the lower middle tray thing when i move to a new case (eyeing h2g0) i'll probably just use some of my old 1/2 tubing on it when i need to drain to route it out

~p.s. @Lloyd Blue is the Colour

[Nickel020]

I like the idea of using a T block with a Koolance Quick Disconnect (depending on location coupled with a Koolance or now a Bitspower swiveling elbow) With just 1 end of the Quick Disconnect in it will act as a plug, but once you connect the other (with a drain hose connected to it) it will open and drain your loop.

That's the kind of input I was looking for, much better than using a ball valve or a fillport at the end

[voigts]

A drain makes life a lot easier.

In this loop, I took a copper long sweep elbow that I was going to use at the bottom of the case, drilled a hole in it, cut the threads short on a 1/8"MIPx1/4"barb brass fitting, soldered the short threaded end into the copper elbow, and ground the hex wrench handles on the fitting round so everything would look smooth. I then just use a 1/4" rubber vacuum cap with a spring clamp from the auto parts store to seal it. It is very compact this way and easy to open.

[thomas hobbes]

I have a ball valve on the end of a 6" length of tubing coming off a Y-piece straight after the pump. Does little to affect flow and means I can drain into an empty Feser bottle in less than a minute with no mess. Simple, cheap and it works.

[mussafry]

[Mick64]

I have added a 'T' at the lowest part of my loop with a ball valve for a simple and quick way of draining the coolant.

[l33t p1mp]

I have one, and no more yank and spray. Especially since I have 7/16 on 1/2 barbs.

[IanY]

That's the kind of input I was looking for, much better than using a ball valve or a fillport at the end

You'll still want a ball valve if you use quick disconnects. Trust me. Been there and done that.

[Zaskar]

You'll still want a ball valve if you use quick disconnects. Trust me. Been there and done that.

Wait, do they not act as effective stop plugs when disconnected?

[IanY]

Wait, do they not act as effective stop plugs when disconnected?

Perhaps the new Bitspower ones do.

I had to clean up drops on the bottom of my case upon connection/disconnection. No harm done, and it wasn't a real big deal in the end, but it was thoroughly unacceptable to me.