Prometiea Ugrade

[bowman1964]

Originally posted by Arky
Bowman when you have worked out the right lenth any chance of you sending me a piece of cap tubing m8 ?? im happy to pay

Arky

well pm's have been coming,email,you name it,i have gotten a question about what is the specs on my update or can i suppy the needed parts.

let me try to anser these questions.

i have always shown step by step how to's and given my every spec.

but this time is going to be slightly differant.

i was asked by Oppaniter to help him out on this project.and the guys here at extreeme have been great helping me.

but this is a sticky problem right now.

this is a very hard and time consuming mod to do.

if everyone hasnt thought about this yet ,there are a few companys watching this thread very closely.
because of the nature of there business this project may cause them some conserns.money lost or money to be made.

so i am keeping the excat cap lenght and charge specs under hats for now.
this project well last a few weeks and i hope by the end i will tell all. i hate to do this but i feal i have no choice under these cicumstances

[OPPAINTER]

What to do what to do,,,uhmm

Well I wouldn't mind the flexable tubeing, seeing how I broke the thing do to bending into shape in the first place. My only concern is will it be to flexable so the houseing wants to fall down to the point of when mounting it all the wieght pulls the top of the houseing outward. Seeing you'll be shiming the evap out I guess It should be fine as i can adjust the top tighter then the bottom to even out the presure.
Flexable It is

As far as the length, and I may be bummed out about this later not going for much longer tubing but at the moment i'm thinking that I will be useing the unit under the case as usual. So I'll just go for no more then a 6" extention.

OPP

[TheDude]

I would rather have the rubber hose on my Prom than the stock crap...it works great on "Crossbow".

[Pimpsho]

ya i would have to agree bowman on the need to know basis on the cap lenth ect..... since its basically alot of trial and error and wouldnt wana give out any tricks fo free sorta speak'

[bowman1964]

Originally posted by OPPAINTER
What to do what to do,,,uhmm



As far as the length, and I may be bummed out about this later not going for much longer tubing but at the moment i'm thinking that I will be useing the unit under the case as usual. So I'll just go for no more then a 6" extention.

OPP

ok now only problem with 6" extension and using inside of the case.
when we add 6" to the lenght the extra has to bend up take up slightly more case space.
now a big probelm will still be going from a p4 style board and a amd because of the swisting of the head to get it easily alligned to the socket.(see i try to think of all possable mounting conserns)
but i can order a specail o-ring hose connection for the cooler head mount.this will allow you to loosen the head (at the o-ring nut)and ever so gently get a small twist without loosing a freon charge......
DUDE your's has this under the insulation.you can loosen the nut(not while it is running of course) and the oring will keep the freon from leaking,and you can twist the head a few degrees right or left. without the hose turning.this is a nice feature because it is so hard to get the head aligned perfect without it.

i will order the fitting i need monday to do the job.as i am i dealer for the parker hose company it wont take but a few days i hope.

[Method Man]

bowman1964 looks awsome man keep up the good work

[TheDude]

Originally posted by Pimpsho
ya i would have to agree bowman on the need to know basis on the cap lenth ect..... since its basically alot of trial and error and wouldnt wana give out any tricks fo free sorta speak'

I agree with Pimpsho completely on this. I think as much as we all want to know all the little details, it's not right for you to do all the work and then spoon feed your results to the entire world....including major companies who would then profit from your work.
I'm sure everyone would feel the same way if it were them and understands your reasons. I appreciate that you are going to the trouble to post your project and share pics with us, etc. You are doing us all a big favor. Thanks Bro!

[OPPAINTER]

Bowman,

I use a swiftech Quiet Power case, plenty of room in there, my thoughts on having the extra length are that it may be easier to shape for both vertical and horizontal mounting.

OPP



EDIT: added img tags
-saaya

[muzz]

Looks to me like you'll be liking your New and improved Mach 1 alot more than your brand new Mach 2 OPP !

Thanks alot for sharing the info there Bowman.
Baker your new gear looks killer bro, OPP is going to love that new Evap.......

[Quickmcj]

Bowman:


If you use another gas, won’t it shorten the unit’s lifespan?

If you will use baker18's evaporator head, will this multi-layer design lower load temps compared to the regular evaporator head from Chip Con?

Thanks.

[TheDude]

I didn't think the multi-layer design was good in a vertical mounted board?

[baker18]

Originally posted by TheDude
I didn't think the multi-layer design was good in a vertical mounted board?

The cooler you got from Bowman has a multilayer block and its mounted vertically. It is working for you?

baker18

[TheDude]

Originally posted by baker18
The cooler you got from Bowman has a multilayer block and its mounted vertically. It is working for you?

baker18

It has 2 layers..... True it works well. How many layers do yours have? You don't have to get smart...just asking because they appear to have several layers. Are you selling your AGP blocks yet?

[baker18]

Originally posted by TheDude
It has 2 layers..... True it works well. How many layers do yours have? You don't have to get smart...just asking because they appear to have several layers. Are you selling your AGP blocks yet?

sorry, not trying to get smart ...It does have 2 layers. Still need to test it on a cpu, gpu evap works great. I need to put my mainboard inside a case so I can test the cpu evap(mounted vertical) and gpu evap(mounted upside down). Hope to get some results this week.

baker18

[CodeRed]

Originally posted by bowman1964
pic of cooling head with evaperator removed and if you look you will see temp sensors mounted into the foam filled plastic housing.they are the 2 triangle looking black objects in the foam.
and here everyone finally gets a pic of the evaperator on the side.

Bowman,

Can you tell what type of temp sensor is used. I believe its an NTC type, but I would like to get the part no (if readable) so I can determine what size resistor to use for a permanent +10 deg C temp offset (to stop the sirens when going below -50 deg C)

[bowman1964]

Originally posted by Quickmcj
Bowman:


If you use another gas, won’t it shorten the unit’s lifespan?

If you will use baker18's evaporator head, will this multi-layer design lower load temps compared to the regular evaporator head from Chip Con?

Thanks.

no the refrigerant shouldnt hurt the lifespan of the compressor if i get the right load and charge.

as for the multlayer i personal like them allthough i need to do more testing to see how much of a differance they make.

Originally posted by CodeRed
Bowman,

Can you tell what type of temp sensor is used. I believe its an NTC type, but I would like to get the part no (if readable) so I can determine what size resistor to use for a permanent +10 deg C temp offset (to stop the sirens when going below -50 deg C)

well i am going to have to remove the sensor anyway to make sure it gets contact to the block i will try to find out for you

[OPPAINTER]

Originally posted by CodeRed
Bowman,

Can you tell what type of temp sensor is used. I believe its an NTC type, but I would like to get the part no (if readable) so I can determine what size resistor to use for a permanent +10 deg C temp offset (to stop the sirens when going below -50 deg C)

Is this siren going to be a problem for my unit?

OPP

[bowman1964]

Originally posted by OPPAINTER
Is this siren going to be a problem for my unit?

OPP

if it is i will fix it

[]JR[]

Originally posted by bowman1964
if it is i will fix it

By the chop it off approach i hope

]JR[

[CodeRed]

Originally posted by OPPAINTER
Is this siren going to be a problem for my unit?

OPP

Yeap.

The prom thinks the NTC sensor is broken when the temp goes below -52 deg C. Its a real PITA as I always have to run prime in the background to keep my temps up.

I figure putting a resistor in parallel with the sensor will trick the prom into thinking the temp is much higher. I am going to try and work out what the best value is tonight (for +10 deg C).

[bowman1964]

Originally posted by ]JR[
By the chop it off approach i hope

]JR[

only as a last resort.
i like to try and mod things to my way of thinking.a resistor would be the best approach to fix this problem.if thats not a option yes i can remove it i hope.
makes no differance, it will be working properly when it leaves here.
i am funny about small details sometimes, i like it to be right.

[Quickmcj]

Originally posted by bowman1964
no the refrigerant shouldnt hurt the lifespan of the compressor if i get the right load and charge.

as for the multlayer i personal like them allthough i need to do more testing to see how much of a differance they make.

Ok, thanks for the answer.

[CodeRed]

Alright I did some quick tests with a resistor in parallel with the temp probe.

2Mohms gave me a +12 deg C at -51 deg C. This was as close as I could get to a +10 deg C offset since I ran out of resistors.

Probably a 5MOhms trim pot across terminals 7 & 8 of the control unit would be best so you can adjust the offset.

Remember that this mod is only accurate at one temperature. At higher temps the true value and readout value will converge. The value of resistor will also dictate the lowest temp possible on the readout ... which you want to set to -50 deg C.

[]JR[]

Sounds like you need a voltage dependant resistor to linearise it throughout the range, although i dont think they come in that many megs....

]JR[

[CodeRed]

A trim pot should be accurate enough for the limited temp range thats interesting (-50 deg C to -40 deg C). Probably only 1 - 2 deg C of error at -40 deg C if you set it at -50.

Ohhh try a 10 Mohm trim pot instead of a 5Mohm (as I previously suggested) since the scale is logarithmic.