Here is a pic of the 9800 vgpu and vddr mods.
10k v-r
20k v-r
Here is a link to macci's volt mods
http://www.maximumoc.com/img/hardwar...ltage_mods.jpg
Here is a pic of the 9800 vgpu and vddr mods.
10k v-r
20k v-r
Here is a link to macci's volt mods
http://www.maximumoc.com/img/hardwar...ltage_mods.jpg
Last edited by runmc; 08-15-2003 at 04:49 PM.
which wire is ground that connects to the 9700 on both mods, and how many ohms should each vr be set to before booting up?
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2500+
2x256mb Corsair XMS 3500c2
Radeon 9800pro with copper rackmount cooler
Antec TrueControl 550w psu
Abit nf7(non-S) 3d-cabable of 245mhz dc with low vcore.
On the v-r, I use the pin next to the screw and the pin in the middle. Snip the other pin off.
Solder a wire to each pin and then solder the other ends of the wires as I have shown.
Neither pin on the v-r is positive or negative so it doesn't matter which way you do it.
You mentioned a 9700. This is a 9800. You may have just made a type-error, but I just want to be sure you know.
Turn the screw on the v-r counterclockwise all the way out. Do it gently so you don't damage the v-r. Then just fire it up and check it with a voltmeter. Turn the v-r clockwise to increase voltage.
yea, i meant 9800. I see you only used two vr's. The picture at maximumoc.com shows you need like 4 vr's. Did the maxoc pic do unnecessary mods?
-----------------------------------------------
2500+
2x256mb Corsair XMS 3500c2
Radeon 9800pro with copper rackmount cooler
Antec TrueControl 550w psu
Abit nf7(non-S) 3d-cabable of 245mhz dc with low vcore.
The pics you saw were of all four v-mods
Vcore or vgpu
vddr or vmem
Those were the two I did
vref
vddq
You can do as many mods as you like. If you do the vref mod then you need to do the vddq mod. You need to keep these two voltages working together. I believe vddq is half of vref. That's how it was on the 9700 anyway.
I chose to only do two. I may do the others later, but for now I don't feel the need. :p
Last edited by runmc; 05-30-2003 at 07:27 AM.
so what results did you get over the overclocks before the vmod.
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2500+
2x256mb Corsair XMS 3500c2
Radeon 9800pro with copper rackmount cooler
Antec TrueControl 550w psu
Abit nf7(non-S) 3d-cabable of 245mhz dc with low vcore.
I don't do notes well and I don't recommend voltmodding, but just in case someone decides to do one, I thought the pics might help. lolOriginally posted by dttdar
so what results did you get over the overclocks before the vmod.
Very very clean mod. I like how you mounted the trimmers on the VC itself. What did you use to do that?
3700+ San Diego @ 1.7v
2x512 pc4000 Mushkin Redline @ 3.6v
MSI k8n neo2
x800xtpe
Mach 2 cooled
Superpi (1.4mod) --> 24.7 sec
3DMark '01 ---> 37.8k on stock x800xt (526/573)
thank youVery very clean mod. I like how you mounted the trimmers on the VC itself. What did you use to do that?
I used a dab of silicon(atx)
I found the best way for me, is to solder the wires to the v-r, then silicon the v-r on the card and let it sit overnight. Then the next day solder the wires to the board.
That way, you can position your wires and you don't have anything to worry about.
If you solder first and then move the v-r to put silicon under it, then you move it back, well what may happen is you brake your solder joints.
Get everything positioned and secure, and then solder wires.:p
Cleanest mod I've seen. Great job. You've got your trimmers easy to access to increase/decrease.
3700+ San Diego @ 1.7v
2x512 pc4000 Mushkin Redline @ 3.6v
MSI k8n neo2
x800xtpe
Mach 2 cooled
Superpi (1.4mod) --> 24.7 sec
3DMark '01 ---> 37.8k on stock x800xt (526/573)
BTW, what kind of wire r u using there?
3700+ San Diego @ 1.7v
2x512 pc4000 Mushkin Redline @ 3.6v
MSI k8n neo2
x800xtpe
Mach 2 cooled
Superpi (1.4mod) --> 24.7 sec
3DMark '01 ---> 37.8k on stock x800xt (526/573)
I used single strand wire.
I think it was 26 gauge.. That may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that's what it is.
Please correct me if needed.
:p
this is a 9700, it has all four mods.
:p
LOL. That is way too perfect! You've inspired me to clean mine up. Thx for all the pics BTW.
3700+ San Diego @ 1.7v
2x512 pc4000 Mushkin Redline @ 3.6v
MSI k8n neo2
x800xtpe
Mach 2 cooled
Superpi (1.4mod) --> 24.7 sec
3DMark '01 ---> 37.8k on stock x800xt (526/573)
Wow!~that is a great job done there, lots of care and precision, thumbs up my friend
Nice job!
I would really like to know how much did you gain on those mems!
Raptor AMD Opteron 148 Cabne || Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe || XFX Geforce 7800 GTX 512Mb XXX Edition
I noticed you left the aluminum plate off... I almost killed a 9500 non-pro trying to avoid the plate (pulled one of the solder pads for the ic off, but was able to solder a jumper in to the correct resistor.) Anyway, did leaving the plate off hurt your overclock at all? I would really like to be able to solder "over the top" of the ic's and to the actual legs, like I did on the other mods, instead of soldering to the relatively fragile solder pad. Help appreciated
I'm not totally understanding everything your saying.
I left the plate off because I had previouly shorted out a card with the plate. I didn't notice a difference without it. You could put it back on if you wanted or cut up little heatsinks and stick them on.
The card your referring to ( the one with the gold heatsinks) is a 9700.The 9700 has a heat plate on it.
The card in the first post is a 9800, it doesn't come with the plate.
What card and which mods are you talking about
??
If I am using a 10k pot with the ground wire on the middle leg and the wire that goes to the leg on the SC1175 chip on the leg furthest from the dial, which way would i need to turn the dial all the way to make sure it is on 10k?
thanks
I cannot control my vocabulary
I'm talking about the 9700 mods that you posted. I am just trying to see if you see any differences without the plate. It's a lot easier to solder to the top of the ic leg, at least for me, and it's impossible to do that and still retain the aluminum plate.
edit- q149, it depends which legs you used (or are using) when you set up your mod. I don't know offhand which legs correspond to which direction, and some pots might be different than others... test with a multimeter and see what happens.
doh didnt read all the way... i would still test with a multimeter, but on my trimmers if i hook the wires up that way it's counterclockwise to raise resistance. This is a vishay-spectrol 15 turn trimmer.
edit again- i don't think i was clear enough on the problem the first time around, so here goes. I was trying to solder the wire low enough on the ic leg so as not to interfere with the aluminum plate. In doing that, an attempt at taking off a bad connection resulted in pulling off the solder pad, because apparently the soldering iron didnt heat the connection and melt the existing solder I ended up getting a jumper soldered between that pin and the resistor that the trace led to, but it was a stroke of luck I don't want to rely on again
Last edited by zachsss626; 06-09-2003 at 06:06 PM.
I don't have a multimeter with me atm but i am using a regular 10k 15-turn pot from Radio Shack. The rig looks exactly like this. The pin assignment is 3 at the end with the dial and 1 at the other.
oooooops i told you what it would be for the pin next to the screw and the middle pin... for the center and end legs (on a radioshack trimmer, I have one of those too), it's clockwise to raise resistance.
q149,
turn the screw counterclockwise to lower volts.
you really do need a mutimeter if your going to vmod.:p
two questions about the 9800P volt mod (vgpu and vmem)
1. Is there a very high current in the cables, do i need THICK cables or will any do?
2. When the pot is turned to 10k will i have standard voltage or higest voltage??
1. The current isn't that large.. It's the current in a voltage regulator that you manipulate, not to the GPU directly..
2. The highest resistance (In the multiturns/resistors recommended by macci) gives you the value closest to default voltage.
(Things you didn't ask but need to know:
3. Unless you have a small amount of knowledge about the circitry and REALLY know how to solder, I wouldn't recommend you do the vmod, and even if you do, I wouldn't recommend it anyway.
4. Remember that you are violating your warrenty so if anything goes wrong, you're left with $300+ worth of scrap. You may even ruin you mainboard/motherboard and what's in it as well.
5. I haven't been able to get more than around 10-20MHz extra out of the core with vmod than I could without, even with extra cooling, is that worth it?? Others may have had more luck with theirs, but who says you got a "good" core and mem??
6.It's only worth it if you know what you're doing, accept the risk and outcome, even if the results aren't that great AND you are an enthusiast or even fanatic.
7. Don't crank up the voltage to 1.9+V just because you can't reach the magic 500MHz. This thing gets HOT.
8. If you decide to do the vmod despite the warnings, stick with the vgpu mod, it's the easiest to solder and the less likely to go wrong.. Anyways, defenitely stay away from the vref and vddq.
9. Use common sense in whether to do this or not, not momentarely exitement of maybe getting the fastest graphx card in the block or to impress your friends, it's still a fast chip when not modded (And expensive too).
10. I wouldn't recommend it.
11. I wouldn't recommend it.
12. I wouldn't recommend it.
13. Don't do it)
Last edited by vic256; 06-15-2003 at 11:55 PM.
Dont vmod without a multimeter... Might as well play rusian roulette on your card.
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