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Thread: TEC n00b

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by serialk11r
    What I was thinking of was after the water passes the rad, it goes into a secondary cooling stage powered by the TEC, to bring temps ever so slightly down below ambient. Condensation should not happen, because in the SF Bay area here, humidity is really low. I can't believe today temperatures outside dropped to 20F, because it like never does that here. Its getting chilly with the window open, but its good for my PC I'm stupid I know. I was thinking putting the TEC there could help earn a few degrees. Just like 2 pretty weak ones sandwiching a block that will have water go through. I was thinking maybe I could do that when I finish my waterblocks, to use the leftover copper that won't get used anyways. Besides, weak TECs are like 40mmX40mm, so a block to cool them won't have to be too big. And a 120.1 rad should handle them.
    I don't see a problem with it. The whole PSU thing will make it expensive, though. Your could buy another rad for the same price and it would probably achieve better results.

  2. #27
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    Hi m8! If I were you and could spend some $ I would go for:

    Arctic Web 437w ( pelt+block)
    Meanwell 600 w
    Thermochill 120.3+ 3 Yate Loons @7v
    2x DDC Petras
    choose a res
    and if you have some more $ use something like this ( someone @XS mentioned this web but I can´t recall who )
    Last edited by Duh; 01-21-2007 at 09:30 AM.
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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyberspyder
    Does this look about right?



    Brendan
    I don't want to spend that much money (going broke! ), so instead of the rear Thermochill PA120.1, how about one of these rads:

    -Black IceŽ Xtreme X-Flow
    -Black IceŽ GT Stealth 120
    -Black IceŽ GT Stealth 120 XFlow
    -Swiftech MCR120

    Will either of these cool a mildly OCed 8800GTS and a REALLY hot P965 chipset (I forgot to add the Swiftech chipset block on my original list)?

    Brendan
    I BLEED TOXIC GREEN

  4. #29
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    You may skip the ""TEC controller" but IMHO your sketch does not have much sense as: why would you use a 120.1 like rad and a big one afterwards? Why not use a 120.3 directly? Does it fit in your case?

    I would choose a bargain or cheapish rad as all your hardware is gonna be a bit hotter.

    EDIT: regarding the pump: check the iwaki. They´ve been told to be pretty reliable ( japanese ) and powerful. Do not know wether you could use an Iwaki instead of two DDC and have similar pressure and flow.
    Last edited by Duh; 01-22-2007 at 03:30 PM. Reason: add info
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duh
    You may skip the ""TEC controller" but IMHO your sketch does not have much sense as: why would you use a 120.1 like rad and a big one afterwards? Why not use a 120.3 directly? Does it fit in your case?

    I would choose a bargain or cheapish rad as all your hardware is gonna be a bit hotter.

    EDIT: regarding the pump: check the iwaki. They´ve been told to be pretty reliable ( japanese ) and powerful. Do not know wether you could use an Iwaki instead of two DDC and have similar pressure and flow.
    The big one goes first, then the small one. As to why I didn't get a tri, the soundcard I'm putting in will block the third fan's exhaust, therefore creating noise. Yes, it does fit in my case.

    Brendan
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  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duh
    You may skip the ""TEC controller" but IMHO your sketch does not have much sense as: why would you use a 120.1 like rad and a big one afterwards? Why not use a 120.3 directly? Does it fit in your case?

    I would choose a bargain or cheapish rad as all your hardware is gonna be a bit hotter.

    EDIT: regarding the pump: check the iwaki. They´ve been told to be pretty reliable ( japanese ) and powerful. Do not know wether you could use an Iwaki instead of two DDC and have similar pressure and flow.

    iwakis are good pumps but not that great for tec use because they move the water past it without drawing much of the heat off of them.



  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyberspyder
    I don't want to spend that much money (going broke! ), so instead of the rear Thermochill PA120.1, how about one of these rads:

    -Black Ice® Xtreme X-Flow
    -Black Ice® GT Stealth 120
    -Black Ice® GT Stealth 120 XFlow
    -Swiftech MCR120

    Will either of these cool a mildly OCed 8800GTS and a REALLY hot P965 chipset (I forgot to add the Swiftech chipset block on my original list)?

    Brendan

    why not skip the back rad and just go from cpu to vga? it will add some extra heat but not enough to worry about.

    also you may want to do it a little different. your doing a lot of work against gravity
    Last edited by littleowl; 01-22-2007 at 04:40 PM.



  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by littleowl
    why not skip the back rad and just go from cpu to vga? it will add some extra heat but not enough to worry about.

    also you may want to do it a little different. your doing a lot of work against gravity
    OK, will post revised drawing then. Are you sure that the added heat of the 320W Pelt won't kill the GPU's temp AND cool the chipset? BTW, if I put the pump right next to the rad, will that improve the flow a bit?

    Brendan

    EDIT: revised drawing:



    corrections done in paint, moved pump and deleted rear rad.

    BTW Duh, what exactly do those Temperature Controllers do?
    Last edited by cyberspyder; 01-22-2007 at 04:49 PM.
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  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyberspyder
    OK, will post revised drawing then. Are you sure that the added heat of the 320W Pelt won't kill the GPU's temp AND cool the chipset? BTW, if I put the pump right next to the rad, will that improve the flow a bit?

    Brendan

    I am sure that the 320w tec will not kill your gpu as a matter of fact that is what I run. as for redoing your drawing I am not sure what to tell you. take a look at pc in the gallery. I was killing my water flow using a y the wrong way and still never really got hot.

    edit: what kind of res are you using?

    BTW Duh, what exactly do those Temperature Controllers do?
    if he is talking about what I think he is talking about it controlles the amount of current the tec gets based off the heat your cpu is dishing out.
    Last edited by littleowl; 01-22-2007 at 04:58 PM.



  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by littleowl
    I am sure that the 320w tec will not kill your gpu as a matter of fact that is what I run. as for redoing your drawing I am not sure what to tell you. take a look at pc in the gallery. I was killing my water flow using a y the wrong way and still never really got hot.

    edit: what kind of res are you using?
    just saw your rig and it's a little confusing...Anyways looks like that's pretty much identical to mine, except I have an additional chipset block. How does the MCP655 compare to the Petra DDCT?

    Brendan
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  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyberspyder
    just saw your rig and it's a little confusing...Anyways looks like that's pretty much identical to mine, except I have an additional chipset block. How does the MCP655 compare to the Petra DDCT?

    Brendan

    it is close to the same setup and I did have a chipset block on my last mobo but this one is right under the video card so I cant do it.
    if you need me to explain any of it to you let me know. I will be happy to explain it. as for the blocks I need to see pics of them
    I can never remember names



  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by littleowl
    I am sure that the 320w tec will not kill your gpu as a matter of fact that is what I run. as for redoing your drawing I am not sure what to tell you. take a look at pc in the gallery. I was killing my water flow using a y the wrong way and still never really got hot.

    edit: what kind of res are you using?


    if he is talking about what I think he is talking about it controlles the amount of current the tec gets based off the heat your cpu is dishing out.
    the Swiftech MCRES Miro, may consider the single plexi 5.25 bay res if that's necessary.

    Brendan
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  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyberspyder
    the Swiftech MCRES Miro, may consider the single plexi 5.25 bay res if that's necessary.

    Brendan
    I like the 5.25 pay res that is what I use. I am not sure if I like that little MCRES one or not because it looks like you would get a lot of water not moving.

    as for the pumps I would get the mcp655 or go to dangerden and get the D5(same pump) may be a little cheaper. as for the other pump I got one just like it from dd and sent it right back to them. It will not push through your system.



  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by littleowl
    I like the 5.25 pay res that is what I use. I am not sure if I like that little MCRES one or not because it looks like you would get a lot of water not moving.

    as for the pumps I would get the mcp655 or go to dangerden and get the D5(same pump) may be a little cheaper. as for the other pump I got one just like it from dd and sent it right back to them. It will not push through your system.
    I'm not getting the runofthemill DDC, I'm getting the Petra verison with his top, which is pretty much on par with the Laing D5/Swiftech MCP655. (link:http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=117215)



    Brendan
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  15. #40
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    let me know how it does for you?



  16. #41
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    @littleowl: I´ve read the capacity of transfer is mainly give by the design of the block. I do not know wether some blocks include such spec but it would be nice that it said something like: optimal heat transfer Q ( flow) = 1500 GPH ( invented flow number). Of course if the delivered flow is too high I think it will happen what you said.
    "Study hard my young friend"[/B].
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  17. #42
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    I've been thinking, should I drop the chipset WB and just go for regular active cooling? I was thinking about installing one of these:

    -Thermalright HR-05
    -Swiftech MCX159-CU

    Brendan

    BTW I picked out the Alphacool Repack-cooling Slot-In res, since the other plexi ones have a lip on the outside, and I want a clean, stock front.
    Last edited by cyberspyder; 01-23-2007 at 09:57 AM.
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  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duh
    @littleowl: I´ve read the capacity of transfer is mainly give by the design of the block. I do not know wether some blocks include such spec but it would be nice that it said something like: optimal heat transfer Q ( flow) = 1500 GPH ( invented flow number). Of course if the delivered flow is too high I think it will happen what you said.

    ok using the same thing you said what is the flow rate of your pump?


    Quote Originally Posted by cyberspyder
    I've been thinking, should I drop the chipset WB and just go for regular active cooling? I was thinking about installing one of these:

    -Thermalright HR-05
    -Swiftech MCX159-CU

    Brendan

    BTW I picked out the Alphacool Repack-cooling Slot-In res, since the other plexi ones have a lip on the outside, and I want a clean, stock front.

    I was looking at them res's when I bought mine. as for the chipset heatsink if you want to pick between the two you have listed I would look more at how it will fit in your case. from your drawing I would recomend the thermalright because you will not be able to go sli with the swiftech one.
    Last edited by littleowl; 01-23-2007 at 12:19 PM.



  19. #44
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    I have an eheim 1048 but do not have my setup running. I am planning to buy another pump ( 1048 also).

    Take a look at this
    Summary & Conclusion


    Recommended pumps:

    Performance: Iwaki MD-20RZ
    Jack-of-all-trades: Swiftech MCP600/AquaXtreme 50Z
    Silence focused: Eheim 1048
    Plotted a graph and worked out some figures for some in-series pump solutions in order to explore the "ideal" pumping scenarios I touched on above.

    2 x Eheim 1048 => 6W of in-line heat
    "Study hard my young friend"[/B].
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  20. #45
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    So basically, here's what I have to get:

    -Alphacool Repack 5.25 bay res.
    -Thermochill PA120.2 with shroud
    -Swiftech Apogee GT
    -EK 8800GTS waterblock
    -Meanwell 320W PSU (with relay kit)
    -320W Peltier
    -10' 1/2" Tygon tubing
    -2 low speed Yate Loons
    -Petra DDCT-01
    -Neoprene insulation
    -Zerex coolant
    -Green UV dye
    -1/4" copper cold plate

    IN ADDITION TO THE FOLLOWING:

    -Asus P5B-Deluxe (NO WI-FI!)
    -Crucial DDR2-1000 D9
    -Intel E6300
    -2X Samsung 321KJ
    -Pioneer DVR-111D
    -Antec SOLO
    -2X Nexus 92mm fans
    -Accoustipack sound insulation
    -eVGA 8800GTS
    -Corsair HX620W
    -Creative X-Fi Xtreme Music

    Brendan
    Last edited by cyberspyder; 01-23-2007 at 07:50 PM.
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  21. #46
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    -how about a 600w meanwell? not much difference in $ ;but in performance.Check the dimensions of the 600w in case you are interested in it to avoid not being able to place it in the case
    -I do not get the idea of getting an apogee and a 320w. Are you gonna get a coldplate? How are you planning to deal with condensation? I´d better go with arctic web´s ( kinda all in one solution, although you might use some extra insulation)
    -In case you do not have all the moent for a TEC chilled system I´d go with a normal WC and then upgrade. I mean this as I would go strightly to a 120.3 rad if I was planning to chill:
    cpu (sometime with the extra heatload of a generated by the TEC) +2x vga+chipset
    -regarding the res: there must be a cheaper 5 1/2 of that type.

    cheers
    "Study hard my young friend"[/B].
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    Woody: It's not a laser! It's a... [sighs in frustration]

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duh
    I have an eheim 1048 but do not have my setup running. I am planning to buy another pump ( 1048 also).

    Take a look at this

    LOL I have read that post many times before. I read on there lots way before I started playing with these things. now look also at what blocks they are using and how many watts of heat they are disapating. I am sorry but 22watts of heat with a jet style block is not the same as 400w of heat with a flow type block.



  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyberspyder
    So basically, here's what I have to get:

    -Alphacool Repack 5.25 bay res.
    -Thermochill PA120.2 with shroud
    -Swiftech Apogee GT
    -Meanwell 320W PSU (with relay kit)
    -320W Peltier
    -5' 1/2" Tygon tubing
    -2 low speed Yate Loons
    -Petra DDCT-01

    Brendan
    it looks alright Brendan
    I don't care for the Apogee block as a tec block myself but it can do it just watch the heat load. as for the 5' of tygon I would get 10 from your drawing you will use close to 7'. IMO



  24. #49
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    Smile

    BTW, as for the coolant, will some Zerex with green UV dye and distill water work? Duh, as I said before, I don't have space for a tri rad, and I want a clean installation. Why pay more if the dual Thermochill is overkill already? Also, the 600V Meanwell is alot more expensive than the 320W, double the price in fact. I don't plan on running more than an undervolted 320W Pelt, and it is also bigger (which is a problem, since I don't have enough room). No, I'm not getting a coldplate. Yes, I going to get some neoprene insulation, juist that I forgot to put it on the list. I don't have dual GPU's or a chipset block, as I said earlier:

    I've been thinking, should I drop the chipset WB and just go for regular active cooling? I was thinking about installing one of these:

    -Thermalright HR-05
    -Swiftech MCX159-CU

    Brendan

    BTW I picked out the Alphacool Repack-cooling Slot-In res, since the other plexi ones have a lip on the outside, and I want a clean, stock front.
    and earlier:

    I've read the stickies, but I still have a couple of questions. One, I've seen some of you guys cool your TEC with an air cooler. Some of you said that it is terribly inefficient. I was thinking maybe a 80W TEC with a Scythe Ninja (47 CFM fan, with another 47CFM fan behind it {case exhaust}) on an Intel Core 2 Duo E6300. Can I do this? (I'm not interested in getting negative temperatures, just a improvement over stock) Two, I'm currently thinking of getting a system consisting of:

    -Intel Core 2 Duo E6300
    -Abit AW9D-MAX
    -eVGA 8800GTS
    -2X Samsung 500GB SATA HD
    -2GB Corsair ram
    -SATA Samsung DVD burner
    -Corsair HX620W
    -Antec SOLO
    -Accoustipack Sound Insulation

    Can the Corsair handle the added current of the TEC? I really don't want to get another PSU since the Mean Wells are all loud, and I'm very anal-rententive about noise. Lastly, can I still OC my proc?

    Thanks, Brendan
    Brendan

    EDIT:

    Quote Originally Posted by littleowl
    it looks alright Brendan
    I don't care for the Apogee block as a tec block myself but it can do it just watch the heat load. as for the 5' of tygon I would get 10 from your drawing you will use close to 7'. IMO
    Thanks, added that to the list.
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  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyberspyder
    BTW, as for the coolant, will some Zerex with green UV dye and distill water work? Duh, as I said before, I don't have space for a tri rad, and I want a clean installation. Why pay more if the dual Thermochill is overkill already? Also, the 600V Meanwell is alot more expensive than the 320W, double the price in fact. I don't plan on running more than an undervolted 320W Pelt, and it is also bigger (which is a problem, since I don't have enough room). No, I'm not getting a coldplate. Yes, I going to get some neoprene insulation, juist that I forgot to put it on the list. I don't have dual GPU's or a chipset block, as I said earlier:



    and earlier:



    Brendan

    EDIT:



    Thanks, added that to the list.

    hey Brendan you will need some kind of a cold plate. you cant use a tec without it. you can use your block and make a nice cold plate that will do the job. as for the zerex and distilled water yes as for the uv stuff i am not sure. I use the zerex and distilled water myself.
    edit: where you getting your tygon? I need to get some myself.
    Last edited by littleowl; 01-23-2007 at 07:55 PM.



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