I’m looking for a v-core mod for the ASUS P5N32-E SLI.
http://vr-zone.com/index.php?i=4277
Here is the Data Sheet for the IC. http://www.alldatasheet.com/datashee...D/ADP3198.html
Any help would be appreciated, thanks
OPP
I’m looking for a v-core mod for the ASUS P5N32-E SLI.
http://vr-zone.com/index.php?i=4277
Here is the Data Sheet for the IC. http://www.alldatasheet.com/datashee...D/ADP3198.html
Any help would be appreciated, thanks
OPP
My guess, it's going to be the same vmod as on ASUS P5B Deluxe (965P), P5W DH (975X), etc - it's exactly the same controller...
Last edited by bachus_anonym; 12-08-2006 at 12:49 PM.
Originally Posted by bachus_anonym
Good point. I guess I will try and solder a 50k VR the point on the picture below.
Thanks,
OPP
Yep, my thoughts exactly... It looks like an alternative to Pin #4 (FB) on that ADP3198...
Please keep us updated.
I was wrong above,
You attach a 50k on the other side.
Like this picture.
OPP
Hehe, I was about to say to possibly do a continuity check using your multimeter, because upon closer look, it seemed like trace from #4 ends on the right side, not left...Originally Posted by OPPAINTER
Glad you caught it, Eric
And please don't just use a 50K trimmer, for trial and error. Measure resistance between pin#4 and ground and then you can select an appropriate resistance value for the trimmer. You could be lucky and it's OK with the 50K trimmer, but double checking doesn't cost you much. On the other hand, a damaged VCore circuit isn't the best thing.
Quote from one of our professors:
"Reality is hiding in the imaginary part."
And who gives you 100% safety that they all use the same reference circuit? I know that the circuit is most likely very similar when the same controller is used, but it's not always like that. You never know. That's why I said that he shoud double check.Originally Posted by DEVIL K-ce
Safety first.
Quote from one of our professors:
"Reality is hiding in the imaginary part."
The 50k worked fine and all is well.
Just solder a 50k VR to this point http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...81&postcount=6
and then to ground. Start off at 50k and then decrease your resistance for higher voltage.
Thats it.
OPP
Last edited by OPPAINTER; 12-09-2006 at 07:04 AM.
Then everything is fine. But you know that it could've gone wrong? All you need to do for these mods, instead of guessing the resistance, is measuring and then choosing a resitance value that doesn't influence the original resistance much. You use the formular for parallel resistors to check it.
Quote from one of our professors:
"Reality is hiding in the imaginary part."
The resistance is usually within the same range, and I'm sure OPP did a check that the spot is the same as pin4/FB on the IC.Originally Posted by celemine1Gig
A 50k would only decrease resistance ~2% over the reference, a 20k ~5%, so it's safe
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He didn't mention anything about measuring the original resistance, that's why I got a bit sceptical.Originally Posted by crotale
I don't doubt that Oppainter usually knows what he's doing, but for people reading this thread it looks like guessing the trimmer resistance would be the way to go. I just wanted to make sure that those poeple realize that it's no mystery, but just formulas.
Before I started learning about EE, I always asked myself how the voltmodders knew what resitance to use, because noone ever said how they knew. That's why I wrote what I wrote.
Last edited by celemine1Gig; 12-09-2006 at 12:51 PM.
Quote from one of our professors:
"Reality is hiding in the imaginary part."
How about v droop?......anyone
E6600 week 28, Asus P5B vanilla, 4.64Ghz,P5B vanilla w/ Vmods, vapochill and other stuff, Super Pi 1M = 11.0000s
QX6700 on EVGA 680i w/ twin 8800 GTX's SLI
Second Place hwbot 3DMark06 Sli 20999 (12/2/06 till ...???)
As one of the earliest volt modders I always use a VR equal to roughly 20 times the measured resistance, which results in ~5% change in the resistance.
OPP is an experienced volt modder so he knows what to do.
DDTUNG
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Please measure resistance between pin#16(CSSUM) and pin#17(CSCOMP), on the ADP3198 or on any solder pads or other contacts that are directly connected to these pins..Originally Posted by rjw
Quote from one of our professors:
"Reality is hiding in the imaginary part."
I see a lot of mentions about these mods and attaching the other side to ground. What exactly are you grounding it to? Is there a way to test this with a pencil mod?
58.9k to 59kOriginally Posted by celemine1Gig
sorry it took so long....had to haul out the board
E6600 week 28, Asus P5B vanilla, 4.64Ghz,P5B vanilla w/ Vmods, vapochill and other stuff, Super Pi 1M = 11.0000s
QX6700 on EVGA 680i w/ twin 8800 GTX's SLI
Second Place hwbot 3DMark06 Sli 20999 (12/2/06 till ...???)
No need to be sorry. I am not the one waiting for the mod. If you had no time to measure, you had no time. I can absolutely understand that as I'm also quite time limited ATM.Originally Posted by rjw
OK, now for the mod, I'd try a 1 MOhm (in words, one Mega Ohm = 1000 K Ohm) trimmer potentiometer connected between pin#16 and pin#17. With the trimmer set to maximum resistance you change the original value by about 6-7%, which should be OK. So, start with maximum resistance and then tune it down in order to lower the droop voltage. Hope it works.
Quote from one of our professors:
"Reality is hiding in the imaginary part."
I have to see if I can scare up a 1 Meg vrOriginally Posted by celemine1Gig
Actually , the only reason I took the board out is because I am thinking of hitting it with a sledge hammer...
It has not been cooperating lately. It doesn't really care for any of my mem sticks, which all work fine in my evga board, etc. etc...blah, blah,blah...
So, when I scare up a vr, I will try it out and then try to beat on it some more.
I kind of ruxh installed this board, so I am probably just overlooking something to get it straight, but so far it has been a pain...all the mem that works in the evga just doesn't work as well in this board.
I was running 3-3-3-8 -20-1T at 866Mhz religiously on my evga and this board won't even boot with the same sticks!!! at anything but 2t
I flashed back to 0202, 0302...guess I'll try the latest (barf) bios again.
I am into a benching mode lately, so just looking for the fastest combo at the moment, without having to deal with the weaning process associated with a NEW board.
Thanks for the info, will give it a try and report back, if someone else doen't try it first.
Should be an easy mod, pins 16 and 17 got out to some big solder pads close by.
I may let the smoke clear a bit on this board before putting back into service again.
E6600 week 28, Asus P5B vanilla, 4.64Ghz,P5B vanilla w/ Vmods, vapochill and other stuff, Super Pi 1M = 11.0000s
QX6700 on EVGA 680i w/ twin 8800 GTX's SLI
Second Place hwbot 3DMark06 Sli 20999 (12/2/06 till ...???)
Yes, where do you ground itOriginally Posted by ewitte
...is no longer working as an assistant HVAC/R-installer...
But, is still blasting 20000 songs of real Rap
On any mb, If you are unsure of where to ground, use the small solder spots around any of the holes that are used to bolt the mb to the case.
Normally you can find other grounds , but when unsure, those are the places.
E6600 week 28, Asus P5B vanilla, 4.64Ghz,P5B vanilla w/ Vmods, vapochill and other stuff, Super Pi 1M = 11.0000s
QX6700 on EVGA 680i w/ twin 8800 GTX's SLI
Second Place hwbot 3DMark06 Sli 20999 (12/2/06 till ...???)
Get a multimeter, set it to continuity mode, connect one lead to a known ground point (the screw holes for example) and with the other lead you probe around for a ground point near the vmod location.Originally Posted by Big SturL
Alternatively you could also get the datasheet of the chip you do the vmod on, or any other chip nearby and check that for ground locations. And if the pins on those chips are too small, then just use the same probing procedure as described above with the screw holes. One lead to the chips ground and then probe for directly connected ground spots. That's also how you find alternative solder points for any vmod.
Forgot to mention: You can also use two 500K potentiometers connected in series. Or perhaps even 3 if you want to have less influence on the original circuit. Availability for 500K trimmer potentiometers should be no problem.Originally Posted by rjw
Last edited by celemine1Gig; 12-12-2006 at 08:17 AM.
Quote from one of our professors:
"Reality is hiding in the imaginary part."
Hey opp did it help? This board seems crappy stock as far as voltage goes. I have a hole between 1.36v (after droop) and 1.5v (after droop) no matter what I set in BIOS. Getting rid of the droop should bring me up to 1.38-1.39v. Since I went back to air 1.5v is way too high. It idles about 60C.
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