ASUS P5B-Deluxe; Problems & Fixes

[Ancient1]

well , seems you two are in favor of prose/poetry etc. Me .. I like it precise
As I said : its a 4yr old mobo that WAS able to do this and that.
Vacuum clean it thoroughly ( ex/inhale) . take the battery out . disengage from wall socket for the night.
Flash latest BIOS. LOAD SAFE MODE settings.
DISCONNECT unnecessary stuff .
try booting with no mem and no video , than try different sticks in all slots etc .

Consider all this as a warning for impending doom
GL
over and out

[LSEdwards]

Hi everyone. This is my first post in the forum, which I've been reading ever since I got my P5B Deluxe 3 years ago.

I'm having difficulty removing the GFX card as the plastic rocker switch which clips the card in place doesn't move far enough out of the way, so when I lift the card it gets stuck under the clip before it's free of the slot. Am I doing something wrong? I don't want to use too much force....

[Ancient1]

LSEdwards

use a mirror to check whats wrong . also google for a good pic of the board or read the manual , to understand how it works.
As I recall you need to PULL the plastic WHILE loosening the card. It doesn't click or so .

You may want to consider an upgrade to ~Q9550 and 5xxx or later gfx. the Q6600 ain't enough to drive those cards. and 4GB is a must. Good SSD and Win7. Most can be moved to a new system when the mobo will reach its demise.

GL

[LSEdwards]

GL

Thanks for the reply, the problem is definitely the "tool-less" design of the expansion slots. I've removed the power from the card and released the plastic tab which holds in the end away from the back panel. The problem is that the plastic rocker catch gets in the way, particularly with a big GFX card. There may be a way to remove the whole assembly, but I've Googled and checked YouTube and can't find any examples of how to do this.

I've been thinking about an upgrade, GFX card would help but I mainly use the PC for FSX and for that, processor is key.

Reviews of the Sandy Bridge look very impressive, so I may just go for a completely new rig as everything in my current rig is fairly well matched.

LE

[Ancient1]

the lock is like a hinge. you have to sway the card some from the back panel side than pull the latch(tab) and pull the card up or repeat .

[LSEdwards]

I managed to sort it out by removing the tool-less lock mechanism altogether (4 screws at the back) and the GFX card comes out easily. Took a while to work out that I needed to remove the plastic image from the top of the card in order to access a couple of screws to get the cover off the card though. Once all the dust removed from the card's heat sink it's running almost 10 degrees cooler.

In the process of fiddling around I found out that the feet on my PC case swivel round to 90 degrees to give more stability. I've had the case for 4 years and never noticed this before!

[Ancient1]

I was talking about the Blue Clip between the north-bridge cooler and the battery .
Its part of the pci-e slot , meant to provide a 2nd point of locking , when the 1st is the back-panel screw/s.
upload a pic.

dust... electronics killer

[LSEdwards]

Hi Ancient1

Thanks - I was aware of the plastic clip, that wasn't causing the issue for me on this occasion.

There was no way the card would come out of the case with the tool-less mechanism holding it in. I think I prefer the old fashioned screw system! At least I worked out how to remove the mechanism and (touch wood) everything is still working.

Next project is to repair the broken LED Thermaltake log.

L.

[Buckster]

I'm having stability "issues" with 1238 - it seems less stable with higher mem frequencies on my system, and also seems to have less ability to do a "self" reset in the event of a failed overclock - meaning quite a few PC out, graphics card out, CMOS reset events

can I roll back to 1236 ?

[LSEdwards]

I'm having stability "issues" with 1238 - it seems less stable with higher mem frequencies on my system, and also seems to have less ability to do a "self" reset in the event of a failed overclock - meaning quite a few PC out, graphics card out, CMOS reset events

can I roll back to 1236 ?

There is some information here about rolling back to an earlier BIOS.

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us

[faZe]

Hey,

i have the following Problem with my P5B-Deluxe:

When i set FSB = 266MHz and RAM to 800 the system boots and runs without problems
when i set FSB = 333MHz and RAM to 667 the same as above, no problems
but when i set the FSB to 320 and RAM to 800 it crashes while booting Windows
RAM Timings are set manually according to G.Skills recommendation.

Any Ideas why?

MB: P5B Deluxe
RAM: 4 x G.Skill F2-6400CL5-1GBNQ
CPU: Intel C2D E6600

Thanks

[Conquistador SW]

My P5B is retired for some time now, but if I remember correctly I believe you should up the northbridge voltage some. I had my NB VCore set to 1.45v at 400Mhz FSB and DDR2 800MHZ. It ran for 4 years 24/7 like this, just make sure to point a fan on the northbridge as it could get very hot. I also stripped of the metal cover of the northbridge which helped al lot with cooling. Maybe 1.35v is enough for you.

You could also look what the effect is of changing the FSB Terminal Voltage, but I forgot what was safe and what effect it had on stability. I believe I set it to 1.2v and left it there.

[Ancient1]

Hey,

i have the following Problem with my P5B-Deluxe:

When i set FSB = 266MHz and RAM to 800 the system boots and runs without problems
when i set FSB = 333MHz and RAM to 667 the same as above, no problems
but when i set the FSB to 320 and RAM to 800 it crashes while booting Windows
RAM Timings are set manually according to G.Skills recommendation.

Any Ideas why?

MB: P5B Deluxe
RAM: 4 x G.Skill F2-6400CL5-1GBNQ
CPU: Intel C2D E6600

Thanks

The thing to understand is that the NB is a chipset , and you overclock it .
I think you don't understand that RAM @ 800 is NOT the end speed of the Mem ! .
I forgot the calc but you should know that your mem is NOT the best , rated CL5 @800 . so running it at 840Mhz (+5%) (in windows. get CPUID ) may be the fastest. Though fastest FSB is always best.

The problem may explained in vain, because the Q is what can be done.
start with no overclock . all defaults.
put NB and FSB etc voltages to max . set MEM to slow timings and try
be sure to downclock the CPU for the trials.

Good Luck
the idea is to stress different subsystem, one at a time, than try combo .

however