time to squeeze it all in. Chiller & Phase in one BFC

[[XC] MarioMaster]

yeah i got a really nice recip from a large freezer and it draws less than 4 amps and does an amazing amount of cooling

[[XC] mysticmerlin]

yeah i got a really nice recip from a large freezer and it draws less than 4 amps and does an amazing amount of cooling

send it my way

[Roxter]

what is the name of that case, i wouldn't mind getting myself one !

[Nefilav]

My rotary from the 10,000 BTU isn't very noisy either, more of a purring then a BRRRRRP, runs about 35 degrees or so. The refridgerant makes no difference in noise correct?

If I had a noisy one I would welcome it as well, as it would drown out the factory ruckus behind my house. Another downside to them is you cant shove them into a case, even that monster case .

I use an NMB fan and wake up and wonder who is using the vacuum cleaner, then look at my PC and realize its still on from F@H. Noise is all relative, if you're used to it you're used to it.

[[XC] mysticmerlin]

what is the name of that case, i wouldn't mind getting myself one !

Tandum or some thing like that is the only marking on it.
I got it off ebay over a year ago and he couldn't find any info on it either.
GL

[epion2985]

yeah i got a really nice recip from a large freezer and it draws less than 4 amps and does an amazing amount of cooling

whats the power consumption? Model/make?

[[XC] mysticmerlin]

Any one know if the MD20-RT's have a problem going vertical? I could make back a lot of space if I could stand it up but want to make sure it will not kill it off.

[[XC] mysticmerlin]

Also while I sit here wishing 6:30am would get here so I can go home from work and take a nice long nap I have another question.
Ok so on the chiller side of things I plan on putting some insulation on it but here is the question.
What temp is the Danger Den NV78 plexy top and o-ring good down to with out much worry? Like I say I am insulating the whole thing but don't want to put 2" of ins on it if I am looking at no more than say -5c or so.
Thanks, Scott

[Nefilav]

May as well parrot it before someone else does...all plastic is brittle at low temps, just forget it. Bored one day I froze a swiftech storm barb with some compressed air...gets very very stiff and brittle and would break if I repeated it a few times. Delrin, acrylic and plexiglass normally all take a good hit with a sledgehammer to break, but with cold/hot temperatures the expansion and contraction will break it. O-rings also get cracked or shrink until theres a leak.

Video card ram doesnt need to be cooled to extreme levels, it just takes valuable cooling power away from the GPU a pack of ramsinks and an NMB blowing at them really stabilized my x1600 512 mb DDR2.

In other words, get a solid metal block and braze/solder it shut. I plan to solder, but will test the loop a good week before its going on my CPU+GPU to see if theres leaks/condensation.

[epion2985]

Any one know if the MD20-RT's have a problem going vertical? I could make back a lot of space if I could stand it up but want to make sure it will not kill it off.

No it shouldnt matter, this type of mag pump should work in any orientation. And I have seen some mounted vertically as well as tried one myself in vertical orientation. Works just fine.

Also while I sit here wishing 6:30am would get here so I can go home from work and take a nice long nap I have another question.
Ok so on the chiller side of things I plan on putting some insulation on it but here is the question.
What temp is the Danger Den NV78 plexy top and o-ring good down to with out much worry? Like I say I am insulating the whole thing but don't want to put 2" of ins on it if I am looking at no more than say -5c or so.
Thanks, Scott

I wouldnt take it past 10C. Do you really want to be another guy that had his plexy top crack and his coolant flowing all over his nice new pc. It has happen before.

1/2" to 1" is good. It all depends on your humidity. Some people put on over 3" and they still get condensation. Where do you live?

[[XC] MarioMaster]

whats the power consumption? Model/make?

it's a Matsush ita DA73L12RAU6, LRA is 12.7, don't have an ac ammeter to measure current draw but the freezer label said it draws 4 amps (including recirculator fan inside the freezer)

damn quiet too - this sound clip was recorded about one foot away, the vibrating noise in the middle was the camera vibrating on the table

http://media.putfile.com/Compressor

[[XC] mysticmerlin]

I live in Central Ohio

[n00b 0f l337]

Sweet matsush1ta.

[[XC] mysticmerlin]

I wouldnt take it past 10C. Do you really want to be another guy that had his plexy top crack and his coolant flowing all over his nice new pc. It has happen before.

That is what I asked what temp can it handle and that is were I will set the temp control.

I am not interested in hacking up a new block and warping it with a brazing torch for 10c if you know what I mean. It will still clock better then just straight water.

[epion2985]

That is what I asked what temp can it handle and that is were I will set the temp control.

I am not interested in hacking up a new block and warping it with a brazing torch for 10c if you know what I mean. It will still clock better then just straight water.

you dont need to hack or warp anything, its very easy. Dont even need to braze just solder. All you need is a propane can torch and some pumbing solder. Then clean the block up and you are set. Its really not that hard. But whatever floats your boat

it's a Matsush ita DA73L12RAU6, LRA is 12.7, don't have an ac ammeter to measure current draw but the freezer label said it draws 4 amps (including recirculator fan inside the freezer)

damn quiet too - this sound clip was recorded about one foot away, the vibrating noise in the middle was the camera vibrating on the table

http://media.putfile.com/Compressor

awsome, 4 amps at 115v is about 460w is about 0.6hp not bad at all Wonder if its quieter then the danfoss NL11FX

[[XC] MarioMaster]

i wish i had one to test it against

[[XC] mysticmerlin]

you dont need to hack or warp anything, its very easy. Dont even need to braze just solder. All you need is a propane can torch and some pumbing solder. Then clean the block up and you are set. Its really not that hard. But whatever floats your boat

I thought soldering would not hold up to the cold very well either? That was the point of brazing.

[epion2985]

I dont know. The deal is with the different rates of expantion and contractions of the copper base, the solder and the brass top. Brazing is alot stringer but soldering might hold. Nefilav is trying it out, we'll see how it goes.

[Nefilav]

At my chiller temps, more worried about introducing mixed metals into the loop. Brazing rods aren't 100% copper though either, so ditto. Just please test soldered blocks before using them. My chiller is more on the noob side so it may not cause enough contraction/expansion to break it.

I still need to order the block, but soldered copper pipe I practiced on seems to be okay with my loop...a good sign, but still no reason to not test. Patience is better then a destroyed PC.

[[XC] mysticmerlin]

I am just having a hard time taking the top off my NV78 @ $135 bucks and putting a top on it. I just don't know.
So what do you guys think better to go 2x DD one for CPU and one for Gpu with the old mach1 block I took off for the gpu?
What if I make a bunch of money and get Sli then what ?
I thought that this was easy, one for the cpu was DD and the other was a chiller so I could add to the loop if need be.
I need a drink!

[Roxter]

i still think the chiller is a great idea. chiller and DD. that way you can cool everything you want by just adding things to the chiller's loop. it would be more logical, plus gpu's dont really need SS

[[XC] mysticmerlin]

That was the idea I had when I started. It is still a go. Just epion is getting me worried on the gpu now. I may just keep that one back and use it on the next project and try and find a 6002 (or 2) or sim, for the video card.('s)

[epion2985]

6002's are the cats miow. Worth every penny. Go find one.

[SexyMF]

I don't think that thermal cycling of the waterblock will crack it's top. The coolant temperature will rise to ambient over a very long time (depending on how good the reservior insulation is). Things only really break if you take it quickly from extreme to extreme.

[[XC] mysticmerlin]

it will be running through a HX w/ 1.5" of closes cell around it and 1/2" pipe ins on all the pipes and then the block its self.
@ SexyMF Nice to see you found me . You think the block is cool then or should I find a different way? Maybe use the old block off the mach1 for a gpu DD and kill the chiller for now?